feetupfun

I have a couple of Bultacos with the Mk1 AMAL (M49 Sherpa T and M138 Alpina). Both are the original carby that came with the bike. I find that tickling with the bike upright does not get enough fuel into the motor but leaning the bike over a bit while tickling so that the tickler side of the bike is the higher side raises the fuel a little bit higher in the float bowl, causing more to run into the motor and these bikes will start on kick 1 or 2 from cold. Not so if I don't lean them over while tickling. Both bikes run fine in normal use with the MK1 AMAL carby.

http://www.thehellteam.com/ Have a look in Technical Downloads

Glenn here is a link to the closest Suzuki car dealer to where I live (130km away). I only know of them because one of our local trials club members was a long term employee there but retired a few years ago. Anyway they might be able to help you out. You may need to work out what the Aussie name is for your car though as I haven't heard of a Suzuki SX4 crossover. I'm guessing it is called Grand Vitara here (a bit like Grand Fromage isn't it?) A trials riding buddy has an 09 Grand Vitara with a TOW BAR (aussie name for trailer hitch) so I could take photos of her (car) if that helps. http://www.lawrencesmotors.com.au/ David

The carby, inlet hose and barrel are all DT175 so of course they all fit together. No the carby came with the DT motor both second hand.

errr... a 1980s Fantic maybe seeing you already have it/them?

Brought into where?

I've got a TY175 with a DT175 carby, DT175 barrel, DT175 head, TY175JC exhaust, TY175 airbox, TY175 ignition and flywheel. It performs exactly the same as a normal TY175 except for at high revs. As the revs get up near maximum, there is a slight surge of power above what a standard TY175 would feel like. Because the porting of the DT175 and the TY175 are the same, I'm assuming that the difference is due to the bigger (DT175) carby.

Reason 1 If you didn't block the injection nipples, there will be air leaking in through them Reason 2 Adding oil to petrol changes the viscosity (which is affects the way it flows through jets) Reason 3 Adding oil to petrol changes the oxygen demand of the fuel The biggest effect by far of these three would be Reason 1

Red light on charger = normal charge rate Green light on charger = trickle charge - can stay on this indefinitely without damaging battery

Sounds like you didn't get the book that came with my OSET. The throttle lights are only red no matter what the state of charge. When charged and no throttle, all lights are lit. As the battery gets towards flat with use, the uppermost light goes out as the throttle is opened. More of the lights go out with throttle being opened as the battery gets flatter. The lights are pretty redundant really because your kids will probably complain about the battery going flat before they notice what the lights are doing. Sorry I didn't check if the bars would take clamping type bar ends - I just made solid plastic plugs to fit - but they are probably the same ID as steel motorbike handlebars. I haven't seen 12.5 levers

I think it is pretty confusing the way you are describing things. There is only one head gasket. I suspect you are calling the cylinder "the head". The head is the part that the spark plug screws into and it is bolted to the top of the cylinder. In between the head and the cylinder is the head gasket. Between the cylinder and the crankcases is the cylinder base gasket, or base gasket for short. The crankcase should be oily inside but the base gasket sealing surfaces should be dry.

If you want to win at trials you should realise that it is silly little off-camber slopes that people get the most points on. If you want a bike to blast up big banks on, the Raga is perfect.

Does it really have a crankcase breather or is it a gearbox breather? A two stroke won't run with a ventilated crankcase.

yes you should take it off

You should listen to this person

With NGK plugs, the lower the number, the hotter the tip of the centre electrode operates at. If you are going to ride your Scorpa at sustained high power output, you should use a cool plug ie an 8 or 9 - to prevent the electrode tip from geting too hot. The problems with getting the tip too hot are: The tip disappears fast The tip radiates heat to a localised region of the piston crown and may cause it to soften and develop a hole When the tip glows, the fuel mixture can be ignitied by the glowing metal rather than the spark, so the timing of ignition is no longer being controlled.

Sounds normal to me. How about you post a photo of yours?

The rear Shinko tyre in the photo has a different aspect ratio (lower profile) to Michelin/Dunlop/IRC - looks more like MITAS Lower profile = probably inferior to the name brand tyres on logs, rocks etc but probably OK for Dirt Track racing I already wasted my money trying a MITAS so I'm not going to be the bunny

I seem to recall that the Cota 123 had a 20" front wheel so I'm not surprised that the Whitehawk 80 also had 20". I'm not saying anyone still makes a 20"tyre though. Everyone I know with a Cota 123 fits a 21"rim so they can get tyres for them.

Don't use hypoid oil in or near any wet clutch system as it causes the clutch to slip

This is the best picture I have for the frame on my M198. The steering head detail will be the same as what your M199A should be like. I will take some bare frame pictures on the weekend if no-one else has before then Regards David

Treat the tapered section of the fork tubes with phosphoric acid following the instructions on the bottle. It may be called rust converter where you live. That will cause all corrosion activity of the steel to stop, and create a protective layer on the steel. The process must be complete before assembling (to avoid damaging the aluminium top clamp with the acid) Assemble the taper dry and clean (no grease).

I don't know what prices are like in NZ, but it would sell in a flash at the buy-it-now price in OZ

The PDF on John Canes website will probably show this in better detail but here it is as a JPG

http://www.tytrials.co.uk/trailandtrialsuk...ific-Parts.html Open the above then click on "Majesty Article page 2" It is a PDF file so you will need a PDF reader