feetupfun

Nice bike. It's an early model 247 but not the first model. Great to know that it is going to be ridden. A friend of mine Paul Walker rode one of these in trials back in the mid 1970s. Being 5 or 6 years old, it was regarded as an old trials bike at the time. So far it has been the only one of that type I've seen in the flesh.

It's a standard work-around for a failed thermostatic switch, which is a pretty common thing

Pretty easy to do a test fit with the clutch in place to work out which pushrod it is. There should be a ball between the mushroom ended rod and the plain rod. Some else's 104 pushrod length won't help you because yours might have a different clutch.

Cota 247s are not popular in vintage trials competition nowadays but are great to look at. It's harder to find parts for them than for the popular vintage trials bikes because not many were sold at the time. They are nice to ride though. If you want to ride something different to others, they would be a good choice. As for being a 1973 model, the 247 model had very little product development after 1970 so a 1973 is as good as they get. The early models 1967/68/69 are rare and desirable but not as good to ride.

I still use the original type and reckon they are fine. In fact it is still the original lever on the bike. I've got others too but am even further away than Guy

The square float bowl AMAL concentric came out in about 1977 and Cota 200 was something like 1981 so based on that it would have had the square type. As far as I know the round bowl type is Mk1 and the square bowl type is MK2. This photo shows a Cota 200 with what I call a Mk2 AMAL carby

Is the reason you want an aftermarket lever that you don't like the original lever or you can't source one?

You can ride a twinshock in any competition. Lots of us do that for the same reason as you have mentioned. There are mild modern bikes though if you want to ride something new. The Beta 4 stroke 300 is a popular older person's modern bike

5 speed is standard for model 92

You didn't mention checking for: Fuel tank venting issue Fuel tap filter flow restricted Fuel hose kink Fuel hose filter restricted Fan not running Fan running too slowly Radiator airflow restricted Leaking connector carby to cylinder Air screw/idle fuel screw set incorrectly Exhaust flow restricted Is it the Sherco model with the fuel lift pump?

The usual thing with those carbies is that the needle jet wears alarmingly fast which makes it run rich just about everywhere. They also suffer from the jet needle wearing and the slide wearing and the body wearing. Have a look through the needle jet and I wouldn't be surprised if the hole is elongated rather than round. The jet sizes sound OK but you didn't mention the needle size. OKO. Keihin, Mikuni, Dell Orto all make great carbies for your bike. Bultaco with good carby and good ignition = fun times

If you become a site supporter you can post as many photos as you want

I've been using sealed bearings in motorbike wheels for many years so don't usually fit new seals but do find that with some wheels it is helpful to have something to hold the spacer in position while the axle is being inserted. If the old seal is beyond reuse on a wheel like that, I usually make a rubber disc that fits where the seal would normally go, to hold the spacer in place. PS your wheel looks excellent

I wish your model 27 was for sale in Australia

The most recent fork work I did on a Bultaco included green SKF seals with spacer rings I made from PVC electrical conduit (in a model 49 Bultaco). I wouldn't normally bother with fork seal spacer rings but the seal seller told me that the SKF fork seals are more prone to moving within the slider than other brand seals. I found the SKF seals do function exceptionally well.

The rolled over version is clearly shown in sales brochures so there should be no doubt that both versions were standard for the Cota 200

It would make it easy to ID if you post a photo of it

Those things are preload spacers. You can adjust the spring preload by fitting more or less of them

Complete bike not running. Some important parts are hard to source. Insufficient information of mechanical condition. $500 max in my world.

Are you talking about doing a wheelie or popping the front up as part of riding an obstacle?

My "original" is intended to mean the tank that came on the bike, not the first type of tank (fibreglass) fitted to model 198 and 199. Many 198 and 199 I know of have aftermarket fibreglass tanks that replaced their original plastic tanks that fell apart. I'm hoping that 199 Enduro has a fibreglass tank of some sort on their 199 and not plastic or aluminium, or the advice about epoxy lining it may cause a lot of problems

I hope you are talking about a fibreglass tank and not the plastic tank that originally came on 199s. Epoxy will not stick well to the plastic tank

The initial comment was for 1.6 thou not 16 thou

It's conventional to say "1.6 thou" because saying it that way is easier than saying "zero point zero zero one six of an inch" 1.6 thou could be written just as easily as 0.0016" but when spoken it is a different matter

If you set the tank up properly after you have done the coating, any excess will flow back out whatever hole you choose so it doesn't matter if you put too much in to start with.