feetupfun

Sealing off the vents allows for easy fork spring rate tuning by changing oil height if you are into that sort of thing. The KT250 came with vented caps too and the oil deflection technology in them is quite clever but I still replaced them with sealed caps so I could tune the fork spring rate.

The silicone I put there 15 years ago is still doing a fine job

Welcome and may your ribs heal fast

Lowering the footpegs lowers the C of G of the bike (when there is a rider aboard), making balance easier

If the lever end is too far forward in the stored position, the "cam" can go too far around while kickstarting. I run with the lever a long way forwards but manage the situation by letting my heel hit the footpeg so I dont rotate the kickstart shaft too far. If you lend your bike to other people, this method of avoiding damage to the magneto casing is not recommended because it is all too easy for someone not familiar with the bike to over-rotate the kickstart shaft. If you pull the magneto cover off and have a look at the kickstart shaft, all will be revealed

Modern stripper also burns if even the tiniest dot sits on your skin. They changed the makeup of stripper to make it harder for people to use it for malicious purposes. The main difference is that it is now a gel instead of being a liquid.

The modern (solvent type) paint stripper here works fine on metal but you do have to use it differently to the old type. It dries very fast so you have to work small areas in sequence rather than coating the whole thing at once

The modern aftermarket TY250 footpeg kits have the footpad slightly lower than standard and back a little bit which makes it more comfortable to ride sitting down compared with the standard location and better for trials too. The TY Trail kit footpeg location is terrible for trials being too far forwards, but is probably the most comfortable for riding while sitting down.

Next time when you put it into 1st gear from neutral with the motor running, while your foot is still holding the shifter down, let the clutch out a little bit and you will probably find that the shift lever drops a little bit further (and there is a clunk). That is signalling that it is fully engaged in that gear. The clunk you have described with your 349 is the bike finally going fully into gear and is a fairly normal thing with 348 and 349 Cotas. If you can select all the gears and it stays in a gear once fully in gear, your mechanic has done a great job.

Those extra washers on the outside of the frame plates are unusual. Possible reasons are: Your swingarm pivot axle may be a bit too long. The trail riding kit for TY250s may have included a longer bolt to suit the trail riding footpeg mounts being attached at the swingarm pivot, and your bike may have one of those axles. Previous owner thought it would be a good idea to spread the forces. Is there damage at the holes in the frame plates? Shims: Shims are used if the width of the swingarm is less than the distance between the frame plates. Some bikes match without shims and some bikes need shims. Holes in the inner tube: Yes, original inner bushes have holes and if you loosen the swingarm bolt before using the grease nipple then you may get some grease to flow into the space between the inner bush and the axle. However, because you can slide the axle out to grease it or to apply anti-seize, the holes are not necessary. They also serve to lighten the inner bush. If you are serious about lightening your bike, you can buy ready-made aluminium inner bush and aluminium axle.

Yes all TY250 twinshocks have the same heat shield, just decorated differently. The flat section is 122 mm x 19.5 mm

https://trials.com.au/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5545

https://www.inmotiontrials.com/product/bultaco-red-tank-frame-paint/

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Montesa-cota-349-white-fuel-tank-and-new-seat-/292556986104

If this is the bike you bought and it has a fuel level pipe in the side of the tank, then it's not a White Wonder tank

Throttle cable port side of headstock and inside the gusset plate. Clutch cable starboard side of headstock and not inside the gusset plate. I run mine above the front tank mounting to give it a nicer radius for the curve down to the clutch casing It's fairly standard on any bike to run the throttle and clutch cables around the headstock. This is especially important on a trials bike because of the extreme steering lock. Running them around the headstock provides bigger radius bends.

Do you want a modern-looking one or a 1970s looking one? 1970s OSSA kickstart is a direct replacement and swivels at the bottom. Just beware there are two spline sizes on OSSAs and only one is the same as the Bultaco spline.

Speedway solos and sidecars, MX sidecars and probably others I don't know about. There is no rule against fitting a second kill switch of any type you like.

Those clutch plates are meant to be rust-coloured. If you want to do some useful maintenance on your bike, the things to fix on an old TY250 that has not seen much use are usually the steering head bearings (rust), the steel inner bush in the swingarm pivot (rust) and the magneto side crank seal (gone hard)

Bultaco Betor mid 1970s probably Alpina

They aren't the same as TY. Photo of Betor damper rod assembly coming

If the nikasil is applied to an all-aluminium cylinder, then heat transfer is better and it is lighter than with a cast iron sleeve design. In your case however, you would be applying the nikasil to the cast iron sleeve, so you would not get those benefits that nikisil can provide. If your cylinder was worn beyond the size of the biggest oversize piston you can get, then nikasil would be a good option compared with resleeving.

Unless I ride beyond my endurance limit, I don't crash in trials at all. I've been riding a very long time and at 59 years old seem to be much more fragile than I was young so I'm both conservative and a very good judge of what I can do without crashing. I generally don't do stuff that pushes my limits, just riding for the pure pleasure of it. However for some reason if in a trial I keep riding after I get knackered, sometimes I misjudge things and crash. Because I only very rarely crash, I very rarely break anything on the bike. Usually it's only a small thing like tearing the end of a handlebar grip. Maybe one broken mudguard per year. Overall I would say I would only break something about once in 10 trials and the practice sessions between the trials. When I was first riding trials I used to smash things every time I rode including broken frames, bent handlebars, dented exhausts, tanks etc Yes I've done a bit of body damage riding trials but only a small fraction of the body damage I've done in off-road racing and trail riding. The worst injuries at trials were once getting knocked out by the handlebars hitting me under the chin and once breaking my ACL when I landed on my feet the wrong way after jumping off. I think trials is way safer than the other forms of off road motorcycling. Improving rider safety would best be achieved by good training for beginners who often have no concept of what they are capable of doing safely. Modern trials bikes are pretty good for safety. They are much lighter than the old bikes I ride and their controls like brakes give much better feedback than old bikes. Recent improvements like shrouding of the brake discs and the rear sprocket look good but the type of incident that they protect the rider from are vanishingly rare. I suspect cut-out lanyards have made a more significant improvement in injury rates. Exposed exhaust headers still burn people. I've had two fairly bad leg burns from trials bike headers in 44 years. Helmets are very good nowadays. If there was shin/knee PPE and forearm/elbow PPE that didn't affect your riding I would use it.

Looks good to me