feetupfun

Standard TY250A end muffler has a cast aluminium swirler inside that is part of the patented "Yamaha-Krizman" spark arrestor mechanism. If you burn this muffler out, the swirler usually melts and the motor then runs much better

The usual technique to avoid wasting money is to get the person doing the re-boring to measure the cylinder and tell you which oversize piston kit to get before you order the piston kit

Your best bet is to either ask on this forum or phone a Bultaco parts shop. There are thousands of people who know Bultaco Sherpa Ts intimately. Many of them look at this forum. There is no compiled cross-reference of model parts to refer to. The parts don't come with the part number marked on them. They did come in packaging that had the part numbers. Some parts changed during the production of a single model designation. There were some years when more than one model of 325/350 Sherpa T was released. Some models were sold for more than a year. Some parts were unchanged on subsequent models. You have a common model that will not be hard to sort out.

I'm guessing its the fuel tank vent hose. Being fairly elaborate-looking I'd say that it comes with the bike to enable it to be sold in some countries that require a one-way valve in the vent hose for emissions laws compliance. Does it have a vacuum operated fuel tap? Some bikes have a fuel tap that opens automatically when the engine is running and this could be the hose for that. Maybe it's the coolant system vent hose.

They are about $20 from Wiseco sellers

In 2010 I said they fitted perfectly. That means I didn't have to alter the piston or the cylinder or the crankcase or adjust the ring end gaps to be able to use it. One engine was a TY250B and the other was a TY250D. I haven't fitted any Wisecos in TY250 motors since then. I'm eventually going to re-bore my TY250A which is still on the original piston and rings, because I just rode a friends TY250A which had a fresh rebore and mine is a bit down on power compared to his, which usually means worn rings, especially if they are 44 years old like mine are. I'm thinking of using a Wossner piston kit this time. I'm not interested in just fitting new rings.

Here's another ventilation hole I found in a M85 frame. The wasp thought it was just perfect

lorenzo I just checked a couple of M85s for the hole in the underside of the rear loop and they both had the hole you described. My thought is that hole in the M85 frame rear loop is for ventilation to avoid problems with internal pressure during the welding process. It looks similar to the holes required for tubular structures to be safely hot-dip galvanised.

Might be the military version Sherpa T with a gun-rack (joke) They did make a Sherpa T model that had a dual (long) seat. What was your frame number prefix again? I think the dual seat Sherpa T model was prefix 221 and it would have had a seat like a model 212/213 Alpina

Those frames were made at a time when Bultaco frames were starting to be made from chrome moly steel so it might or might not be. Not a problem though because you can successfully weld chrome moly tubing to other common alloy steels and to mild steel. If it was me I would use whatever I could find that was the correct OD, so it looked right. Frame tubes under the engine on a trials bike cop quite a beating so going thicker wall than what you might use if you were trying to make it as light as possible might be a good idea. I would use 2mm wall or thicker. If you want to measure the existing tube thickness, grind part-way through the tube with an angle grinder somewhere in the damaged area.

I would be looking nearby or in the crankcase for the missing needle roller and next time if you warm the piston up, the pin will push out by hand

If it runs OK once you get "above" the flat spot, it's likely to be a problem with the pilot circuit

Wossner and Wiseco TY250 pistons are both a good thing. The piston/bore clearance for a Wiseco will be different to what is in the Yamaha manual. The reason there are lots of standard size genuine Yamaha pistons still available is that it is much more expensive to have a new sleeve fitted compared with a rebore. Now that Wossner make pistons up to 2mm oversize there is even less demand for having TY250 cylinders resleeved. TY250 cylinders last a long time between rebores if they are used for trials and have been looked after. There are still plenty around with the original piston and rings in them. I had a TY250D motor rebored about 11 years ago and used a Wiseco piston and it still going great.

If there is looseness in the fit of the tensioner wheel then it might be precessing (not sure of this is the right word). What I mean is that the tensioner wheel could be wobbling. If it is, then it will wear the bushing rapidly and fail. I would suggest either leaving the tensioner off or buying a new one. I run a M49 without a tensioner since I rebuilt the motor about 4 years ago and have not had a problem. The tensioner probably helps the chain and sprocket teeth last longer than without having one, but there is always the risk of the tensioner failing and causing damage to the casing and clutch. Judging by the number of internally damaged Bultaco clutch casings I have in my collection, having things come apart inside that casing is not uncommon. Your video reminded me of a Bultaco M99 (325cc Alpina) I had when I was a kid. The chain was so worn on it that when the motor idled, the tensioner arm would tap against the inside of the casing.

If you post up the dimensions and a photo of your 123 swingarm, you might find that someone will have a look at their trials bikes to see if the swingarm from something else (other than a 172) will fit.

Whether it's a new fibreglass tank cover or this old fibreglass tank or even an aluminium tank, they all need repairing after damage. If it was me I'd seal it and make it look pretty again and use it. If I had to pay someone to do the work then it would be a harder decision

Yes that's an A model flywheel. The B and later model flywheels have a bigger external steel ring than the A model external steel ring.

OK I'm gonna have one more go before I give up. You don't need to take the head off to find top dead centre. Take the sparkplug out and insert something rigid that will reach the piston crown. There are special tools made just for this job but you can alternatively make something up. It is called a top dead centre tool if you want to go looking on the internet. It doesn't even need to have a measuring scale or a dial indicator because you can determine the amount of advance in mm around the flywheel rim using geometry, and I have told you already the distance is 21 mm. You just need to mark TDC on your flywheel so it lines up with something on the casing and measure 21mm anticlockwise from there and make a mark. The only important things about the points is that they start opening when the piston is at the timing mark, they conduct electricity when they are touching and when they are fully open, the gap is not too big or too small. To make a simple tool to show clearly whether the points are open or closed, use the points as a switch/contactor in a low voltage DC circuit that includes a DC supply and a light bulb. When the points are touching, the light will be bright. When the points are not touching, the bulb will glow less brightly. Disconnect the points wire from the HT coil before you start. It is at this disconnection point that I connect one side of my DC supply, if I am using the bulb method. The other side of the DC supply goes to somewhere on the motor casing. The light bulb method is popular, as is using a cigarette paper between the points or using a buzzer or using a volt meter or using direct visual observation of the points. They all work

I've found that buying incomplete bikes is OK but you can usually benefit by buying a few of the same or similar type to allow making up one complete bike. Buying missing parts from someone selling individual parts can get very expensive

Standard TY twinshock front ends provide excellent steering for trials

It can go the other way if the bike has a head-on crash into something!

The setting of the points can be done with little effort by using a 12v battery and a 12v incandescent light bulb. Apply the 12v DC across the points and you will see a large change in brightness of the light as the points open and close. Yes a digital ohm meter would turn the job into a nightmare, unless you disconnect the condenser first, which is why people use a light bulb or a buzzer. Fuel vapour can cause deposits on the faces of the points. Pitting of the points faces is usually due to poor condenser performance. A good test for the condenser is to look through the little hole in the flywheel with the motor running. If it is a bit like fireworks night inside there, then the condenser is not working well. Even with a good condenser there will be a little bit of sparking. I use 21mm BTDC measured on the rim of the flywheel for my timing mark. The air bleed screw should be somewhere between 1 and 3 turns out from fully in. The actual position of the screw is chosen to provide the nicest firing pattern at idle. The idle speed should be done by moving the throttle slide bottom stop. If the idle firing pattern cannot be made nice within the range I mentioned for the bleed screw, then there is still something wrong. Your air leakage at the LH crank seal sounds like it was very bad. Leakage there first becomes noticeable in the way the motor runs when there is a tiny oily witness at the outer lip. You should be able to tell which way the stator plate goes on by the run of the wiring. TY250s have the points in front of the crankshaft. If you still have any doubts about your setup, take the flywheel off again and take some photos. It won't hurt anything to run it a bit retarded if you are taking it easy, and it will reduce the likelyhood of kickback

Excellent and thank-you agent99. The photos are lovely and the sound of 99 saying "Oh Max" is something I always enjoy remembering

Standard points on Yamahas normally last decades in trials use. Two of my TY250s still have the original points and condensers and still work perfectly. I wouldn't worry that your stator coil looks different to the photos in the B manual. A and later models ignitions all work great if they are undamaged and set right. Post up a photo if you still think yours isn't standard. Yes the diode was an improvement that came in with the B model. Having one will not stop the motor kicking back when you are starting it because a diode will only stop the ignition making a spark if the engine is rotating backwards and a kickback happens when the motor is rotating forwards (too slowly). Good that you set a timing mark on the flywheel. It makes it easier to set the timing compared with a gauge measuring piston position through the sparkplug hole. Your Yamaha shop led you astray if they said that the timing wasn't critical. The timing is critical but the points gap is not critical. On a Yamaha you change the gap to achieve the right timing. Yes you can do it through that little hole. Set the clamping screw so it holds the points in place but not too tight that you can't move them to get the adjustment right. Once it is right then fully tighten the clamping screw. The points should begin to open at the timing mark with the motor being turned in the running direction. To tell exactly when they are opening you can use your eyes and a torch, or a timing buzzer or a timing light. I usually set them with a buzzer, then run the engine and use a timing strobe on the timing mark to confirm that it is right. The ignition should work fine with a gap anywhere between 0.2 mm and 0.5 mm. I know Yamaha recommend a narrower range. When you do buy points and condenser, don't buy cheap stuff or an old condenser. Also you can mount the condenser up near the HT coil and it will still work OK. That way the condenser will not get as hot. The only workshop manual I know of for the A model is the owners manual and they do come up for sale. There are two parts manuals. One is just A model and the other is for A and B models. They also come up for sale now and then. The A motor is the same in many ways to the B. The place most people get tricked up when working on A models is that the clutch and primary drive is different to the B and later. There is nothing wrong with the A design it is just what Yamaha had in all their dirt bike engines at the time and the B is a later design. If you are serious about getting rid of the kickback, you can fit a modern aftermarket ignition that has an advance curve. This gives you much less chance of a kickback at kicking speed.