feetupfun

To avoid side loading on the seals, shockies need to rotate freely on the mount as the swingarm oscillates and with the old all-rubber mounts, some people mounted the FALCONS with the rubber clamped tight by the fixing. They also chewed out fairly rapidly, causing slack. They also were difficult to resize to suit larger mounting pins. Yamahas are OK because they are all 12mm pins but Kawasakis and OSSAs have 12mm pins at the bottom and bigger mounting pins at the upper ends. The new FALCON mounts allow the shock to rotate freely on the mounts because the fixing clamps the aluminium bush. Yes I also had to clean the gunge and rust off my pins to make the aluminium bushes slide on.

I just bought some new Falcons too and am very impressed with the revised (improved) mounting system they have now

I find that even semi synthetic allows spooge to build up in the muffler and the ring grooves gum up. I'm thinking of going to mineral oil, if it is still available

or vice-versa. In my experience with OUR car petrol (pump gas) it starts smelling bad sooner in a metal container (metal drum, metal fuel tank)

I'll have a look at mine and see if says anything useful on the coil

What other parts are you wanting?

Sorry it's synthetic mineral fibre

Some Spanish bikes in the 1970s used wire wool as I discovered when I repacked my Cota 348 exhaust. The original arrangement was well designed with virtually no chance of causing problems. Yes I used some SMF to replace it

As for the size of the rebore, get the cylinder measured up by the person who is going to do the rebore and they will be able to tell you the smallest oversize that will work

Why are you glad you didn't burn it out?

If you've still got smoke coming out the exhaust after you stop the motor, it means that combustion is happening inside the exhaust pipe which means that there is gunk in there. If you want to be smoke-free sooner rather than later, then take the pipe off and clean it out. A transmission oil leak into the engine produces foul-smelling white exhaust smoke and if that was your problem the spark plug tip would look oily and your primary drive case would be losing oil fast.

The bubbles that form when people paint these tanks are also an indicator of something permeating through the plastic

I suspect that oni nou's post was intended to be interpreted as being sarcastic humour

bigshineybike reminded me to mention that the 349 and many other spanish bikes of the time use 0.5 mm thick centre gasket, which is not a standard size here, but is available. The thickness of the centre gasket is important for things like the side play in the shift drum

A friend of mine did have an arrangement with a bikers cafe where he would display his old trials bikes in rotation in suitably benign conditions.

This is what I made to remove Cota 348 primary drive pinions. It worked a treat. The 247 drive gear is very similar to the 348.

As long as the mixture is right there is no harm from poor combustion happening by having the air screw all the way in. However, if the pilot circuit is working normally and the air screw has to be all the way in to get the mixture right, then there has to be unfiltered air going into your engine somewhere which will cause damage. Have you checked the oil injection port for air leakage? On one of my bikes I had used a piece of plastic tubing to seal off the oil port and the tubing had swollen over time and had started to let air in. When you look at the LH crank seal, the evidence for a leaking seal may be very small. Even if there is no oil witness there, it can still be leaking. Sometimes that crank seal will seal in one direction but not the other, so air can go in but no fuel/air mix comes out, so no witness. I've just found exactly that failure mode on my KT250 LH flywheel side crank seal. One difference between a problem with the pilot circuit and a problem with air ingress is often that with air ingress via a crank seal or the centre joint of the casings, the degree of the problem will be quite variable, but if it is the pilot circuit that is the problem then the symptoms will be fairly consistent.

I'm thinking that because bsw posted in the Yamaha forum, maybe the Miller tank/seat unit is from a Yamaha in which case yes one of the Shedworks fibreglass tanks would be a suitable way to go.

I usually just tell the person behind the counter what it's for and they sell me an o ring made of the right stuff

Wiseco pistons have a higher coefficient of thermal expansion than Wossner pistons, so need more piston/bore clearance (when measured at room temperature) than a Wossner. In theory the clearance is the same once the Wiseco is up to operating temperature. Running in a rebore is getting the bore and rings to bed in against each other so the contact surfaces can form a low-friction gas seal. While the running-in is happening, there is a lot of extra heat being generated by the friction of the rings against the fresh bore which can (amongst other things) cause the piston to get hotter than it should, which can cause the piston to get too big which can cause it to nip up.

Could be, but not enough info to know for sure. How quickly is the throttle being opened? What happens when you try it with the starting circuit in service? It is doing the same thing hot and cold?

The original kickstart shaft breaks. Replacements can be custom made but are expensive. Original plastic fuel tanks that haven't failed yet are a rarity. The last model 350 is lots lighter than the first model and is good to ride (similar feeling to an SWM TL280)

Some friends had practiced trials for 20+ years on their couple of acres on two-strokes (twinshocks and moderns). The closest neighbouring house is about 150 metres from their riding area. The neighbour had never said anything to them about their riding there until one day when a friend came and practiced with them on his 4RT and the neighbour came over and complained about the noise.

Single front downtube frames have been a rarity for a long time now. The only one that springs to mind is the Scorpa with the TTR125 motor and the Scorpa looks quite different around the headstock, so I'm betting on the main frame being either a scratch-build custom job or heavily modified Bultaco

I saw a question in there " Would an XR/XL/ATC 200/250 motor of earlier 80's vintage be a bolt up swap?"