feetupfun

I don't think that nikasiling the bore would make any difference to how well it ran compared with a fresh rebore. Doing the clutch basket fingers sounds like something that might be useful though

03 is yellow graphics. 05 is red and black graphics. Maybe you could post up a photo of the stator you want to identify.

We have a cut-off date of 1 Jan 1987 which seems to cover most trials bike originally made as twinshocks, but not the much-later RTX

Here is what trials gas girlings from that era look like with the long spring removed Yours look like someone has fitted spacers to limit the shaft travel

Why do you have to choose one or the other? There is nothing wrong with having some of each

I only ride twinshocks but concede that a newby to trials would probably learn trials techniques faster on a modern

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Betor-Rear-shock-seals-Bultaco-OSSA-Made-in-USA-/252149753514?hash=item3ab54be6aa:g:FlwAAOSwhcJWNDK5

See if you can nobble the damping on the Curnutts or the Works Performance shocks while you have them apart. Standard they have way too much damping in both directions for trials use. For your friend getting the four original type Betors, there is a bloke in the USA selling shaft seals for them and you can also get the mounting rubbers. I sometimes run them on my OSSA. they are not quite as good as modern Falcons for damping action, but I love the look of them

I've heard the bottom bits (of pre-USD forks) that the wheel axle connects to called bottles, sliders and legs. I've also heard the whole assembly called a leg. I've heard the long tubular bits with the smooth shiny surface called tubes, stantions, staunchions, stantons, stornchons, sliders and legs There is nothing wrong with calling anything anything, as long as the message is successfully communicated. When the initial question was asked, I wondered what the writer meant by "tarnished" I'm still trying to work it out what "tarnished front forks" means to the writer, hoping I can help with the problem

Anodising is a hard coating on aluminium and is a form of aluminium oxide. Some oven cleaners contain sodium hydroxide. Sodium hydroxide solution dissolves both aluminium and aluminium oxide

never heard of a slide with zero cutaway. Is it fitted the right way around?

what part is tarnished?

Did the plates move out parallel? Even with very flat plates, if the springs are not preloaded evenly, the release travel will be long because the pressure plate tilts

The release travel required depends on the sum of the out-of-flatness of all the plates. The fibre plates (outer plates) I've put in one of my Bultacos (Barnett) were very flat and did not increase the travel required. The production method of the original Bultaco plates is stamping, which is a method that by its nature introduces some degree of out-of-flatness (depending on the condition of the shearing edges) It is very common to see high and low spots on used OEM Bultaco plates, which is evidence of their lack of flatness

It is much easier to set the clutch up with the perfect amount of preload on the springs if you replace the clutch inner with one that has threaded rods and nuts for the clutch springs instead of the clutch inner that has the pins-through-holes spring retainers.

Sprocket: The sprocket is on a taper. If you use heat to help it break free it will probably melt the oil seal but if you are rebuilding the motor it probably doesn't matter. I usually cut old sprockets off my 348 with a 100mm angle grinder. Works a treat Crankshaft: Remove the seal holder Warm the casing to free up the bearing outer

A friend in the 1970s ran his almost-new Suzuki Waterbottle (GT750) on straight petrol (with the oil injection system not functioning) for a few weeks of riding to work. He pulled the cylinders off expecting carnage but the top ends were still perfect

A router is flash. I use a hacksaw

Kind-of-porky OSSA MARs and every other twinshock I have ridden go much better with modern tyres than they did with old style tyres

MT13 Pirelli was certainly the hot ticket when I was a kid (late 1970s). My memory tells me that the other proper trials tyres at the time were either Avon or Dunlop

There is no law against using a roller. I've seen plenty of twinshocks with a roller on the tensioner arm instead of a slider. Whatever rocks your boat.

Wet trial = heat up brakes after trial before loading bike into transporter to get drum surfaces as dry as possible. When I get home, clean external mud off bike then take wheels out and dry brake parts fully. Then some time before the next ride, service the brakes

Wossner make 2.0mm oversize for TY175 and are good quality

still trying, you have ignored the friction at the interface between the cam and the rubbing plate and this friction causes loss of feel that gets progressively worse as the angle increases, and as guys says, jamming on of the brakes at higher angles. The best feel and strong braking is achieved by matching the shoes to the drum and minimising the cam angle. Depending on the cam width, 3 to 5 degrees cam angle is usually enough to provide a suitable working clearance for the shoes

Yes I'm 57 and same problem here. To see well when riding trials I have had a set of single focus (distance) lens glasses made and they are really great for riding trials. Only problem is I cant see clearly up close so using a smart phone or fiddling with carby jets is not on. I also had bifocals made with only a tiny bottom lens but I didn't like them anywhere near as much as the single focus pair for trials riding