copemech

Pre-Event Checklist(Or New Bike) Below are the maintenance items that should be completed prior to a trials competition. For club level riders, these maintenance items can be completed every couple of months. With the bike maintained as below, the rider will have maximum confidence in the operation of his/her machine, allowing him/her to concentrate 100% on riding, rather than on the bike. 1. Wash bike thoroughly 2. Remove rear fender and fuel tank, then dry bike with compressed air, especially: Front and rear brake calipers/pads Rear brake pedal linkage pivot points Rear suspension linkage pivot points Chain tensioner pivot points Electricals (coil, wiring, etc.) Engine Carburetor Kick starter pivot point Gearshift head pivot point All exposed allen-head bolts (especially front engine mount bolt) Handlebar and triple-clamp bolts Handlebar lever perches Throttle tube interface to handlebar Kill switch Foot peg pivot points Fork seal area Front axle and bolts Rear axle and axle nut 3. Change oil (450cc) 4. Remove and thoroughly clean air box; blow dry with compressed air 5. Remove and clean carburetor internal parts 6. Clean and oil air filter; have spare filter cleaned and oiled in plastic bag for 2nd competition day 7. Lube and adjust chain 8. Check coolant level; refill as necessary 9. Release air pressure from front fork breather caps 10. Remove, clean, and grease front brake and clutch levers and perches 11. Remove, clean, and lube throttle tube assembly 12. Lube with WD40: Foot peg pivot points (must pivot freely) Gear shifter lever head pivot point Chain tensioner pivot point Rear brake pedal linkage pivot points Kick starter pivot point 13. Check bolt tightness on ALL bolts, front to back, especially: Rear sprocket bolts Rear suspension linkage bolts (repack dog-bone bearings every 6 months) Rear disc bolts Swing arm bolt Front and rear engine mount bolts Front fork brace Triple clamp bolts Handlebar clamp bolts Header pipe bolts Silencer bolts Lever perch bolts Front brake caliper bolts Front disc bolts 14. Inspect and replace or repair any damaged or excessively worn parts, especially: Sponsor stickers Levers Grips Foot pegs Handlebars Fenders and other plastics Tires (no leaks; sufficient tread for full weekend of competition) Correct cable AND HOSE placement (no binding or worn throttle, clutch, brake cables) 15. Ride the bike for 10 minutes to confirm every component functions correctly, especially: Engine/Carburetor runs cleanly throughout rev range Fan turns on when motor warms up Brakes Kill switch Never leave home without your kickstart lever!!!!!! Never rely upon someone else, specially a drunken Spanyard, to do this stuff for you or you may well find yoursel afoot!!! Enjoy riding your perfectly maintained bike!

Eh, would think a biy of polishing on the shaft where the seals ride would be normal, long as there are no grooves that wont polish out. How much dirt found its way into the center section weep hole area? Don't know that you could find "better" seals. The fluids lube the seals, oil on one and coolant on the other. Coolant is supposed to have some seal lube additive in it, but I think I would assemble with a bit of silecon grease there in hopes to prevent it running dry. Sure you know which way the seals are oriented, but just in case, the open ends face the fluids. so the flats should face each other.

Eagerly awaiting your vids!

Sorry no help here. Know what you mean though. In the past I have settled for packing the nipple threads with the silecone grease on initial prep, so down the line hopefully they are not rusted up and can be changed individually later! It is a pretty good protectant on the outside plating as well although attract dust. Light application on inside of rims seems to keep down corrosion from water entry as well. Dow Corning DC111 compound is the fav.

Different due to stroke and other bits, only the 125 and 200(160cc) interchange untill you go to the big motors of 250,27 0 and possibly 321, not sure.

I would presume this might me a Kiehin PWK28 carb if it is hitting that hard? Nwe bowl in order here. They are available. Sounds as though a new thermo switch is in order as well. Lot cheaaper than burning out the fan motor! '03 280 was a wicked fast beast as I recall!

Clean the mud out your crankcase breather tube and /or be sure it is not pinched or kinked!

Not only are the modern bikes light as compared to old stuff, they are typically a bit quick! Some more than others! I really liked the '10 250 that I took for a spin, yet I can still see where one might get caught off by one. A 2.9 has torque! And can be a bit more Rippy! And supply of the 2.5 here has basically made me need to deal with the 2.9's which have advantages and disadvantages. I agree with Tim that a bit more on the flywheel would be a good thing for us old gits, yet with the Sherco this has not been a practicle option nor available. I am still exploring some possibilities on this, and with the help of others it may still yet be done. As comparison, I think the Scorpa Yam would likely be the most gentile 250 I recall in a mod bike. I seem to recall they came out with the racing version with a bit lighter flywheel in maybe '03 or so which did rev out a bit quicker, but the old ones were smooth as glass, sweet bike. Possibly best of both worlds! And don't think I would ever prefer a Pinkey over one, no less a twinshock!

I hear what you are saying. I have no need for advanced functions with a shed computer. Basic functions such as internet, email, photos, word, and occasional spreadsheet are all I may work on here,other than certain compats with my tech sites which rely heavily on the MS brousers, adobe and java. I have little tolerance for learning curve here, as it either works or not. Simple is good. Which is one reason most the shop stuff and this old one at home are on XP! No glitter required!

No need for all thhat! Just need the dosh for a Ford GT!

Thus the name and bike description!

Thanks Chewy, I think you gotta stay on top of the rear spring preload for a bit as they settle in. I don't like them settling too much as this really seems to start kicking the front rake out too much, effecting the steering and making them push too much. Seems for heavier riders, spring selection is nil unless one has them made special. The bikes will not hit the locks like the Evo or Scorpa at low speeds, so you gotta learn to lead and lean the bike. As no bike will turn good without leaning, it just takes a bit more, and perfecting this "accentuated" lean angle at times is key. I still have untested concepts on added flyweights.

Be nice, Timmy!!!! Chewy is having fun with the toys. And he comes up with good ideas!

Oh good then, what is it? A '10/ 2.5 or 2.9?

Really, reading between the lines here, I am not quiet sure if this is good or bad. It either means you got a new bike, or have taken up new bike prep to support your drinking habit!

Neerly peed on this one! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p0LvKg5aCG0

Oh, I see. So doya have dual boot capability with that? Will this stuff run windows based programs like Photoshop and such, or you gotta use their Apps? On edit,think I just read up the answer to that, as seems you gotta run Wine for the windows based dll conversions that may or may not work, depending. And whar about hardware drivers for printers and such? Is that where you are getting snagged with your wireless card being iffy?

Better off with the Beta, find a long range kit! Or just make a little prop seat to fit.

You don't even want to see the one from falling back on the bum rocks!

Mind you a lot has to do with the fuel you are running. The alcohol induced fuels have really changed the playing field it seems. I run the high octane pump gas here with an estimated 10% alcohol content which may vary. So over time, even though I found good running on 33 pilots a few years back with minimal pinging, I could not do it it later years. I think the basic equasion is fairly simple rule at 100% alcohol you gotta double jet size! At 10% alcohol, one would add 5% to jet size so you gotta go upa bit to 35-36 range. There are a lot of variables wit the fuels, the bike and the carb, not to mention different parts of the world, then throw in REEDS! I never really seen much change on the Boyesen reeds that was out of screw adjustment range as compared to stock reeds at the low end. Providing you are in range. All point being, I never got rid some fair pinging off idle at low throttle settings on the '07 at say 1/16 point till I went with the larger 38 pilot to get some juice into the transition circuit between the screw and the needle. At the same time I say this, I think it was my '03 bike that was too lumpy in this range, and had to go back from 35 to 33 to get it to smooth out. Seems the range is fairly narrow here still today, but finding the sweet spot can take some time and fine tuning, which can vary on the day and your settings! I still think finding the correct jet that makes the 1/16 transition work is the key for smoothness between the idle circuit and the needle, and this takes some fine work, yet the idle screw is adjustable, and so is the needle at 1/8 or so!

What are you up to now?

Quotations "Life is all about ass; you're either covering it, laughing it off , kicking it, kissing it,

WD40 or better spray lube on the lower rose joint on the shocker!

Seals go in springs down, outer dust cover may have spring showing up top, can't recall as I got booties over mine.

You aer working with fuel, not air on the screw, totally backwards, so fit the 36-38 range on pilot , should be in 2 turn range +- I would think.