copemech

Jesus man, this type crap just clings to you dunnit! Is that your GF? Nevermind, I know why you liker, she uses the finger, donshe?

Was thinking about this very thing. Seems the shafts are standard soft steel(thus the wear) and the stainless alloy would work fine. The time vs money thing is the prob! Still do not understand why his drain hole was not working?

This seems to be an older Ducati ignition setup. I cannot see from the pics exactly what part is loose. The black thin is thi ignition trigger i think. If the bike were running otherwise, cannot see that being loose? If you are dealing with a fan issue, the rectifier and regulator (either) or the thermo switch could cause problems. Contact Steve at motoplat uk and see what he has to say. I think the yellow wire powers up everything on them. Ignition, fan and lighting. Without separate source coils for ignition only.

Some depends upon the year of the bike, however, adjust up the rear spring till you get about 20mm sag standing upright under its own weight. Front springs not adjustable on pre '06 models, yet still fine in most cases.

I am eager to witness the Houseape videos of turning a rear hop into a flip turn!

Thanks for that, guess I try to make it too complicated as I tryed to insert the embedded links when the standard links do the job!

Back to the ladies! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vLJEg2H-3gI This is not the best version, yet only one without the Vevo crap! 30 or so years later!

Piccie please1 You only need a mm on each side(plus as much support material) to install a heli.

One for the boys! I guess someone is going to have to splain tome hust how to get the embedded video to work!

Cannot recall the exact trick I used last time I did this. Think I used an old sock to pull it up saving fingers?

No, but you got any piccies?

Obvious then you still don't have the new pads firmed up. Requires the thermal cycling process. The things just simply have a fair softness and compressability off new. Mine took a while, even using the shock cooling. Getting the pads warm without burning them up is the trick. If you try to accelerate the process too much too quick you can ruin things. I put a $4000 set of Brembos on a car a while back. Instructions were something like 10 hard stops from 50-60mph, let them cool, do this 5 times, and if you don't get it right you will be buying a fresh set of pads and starting over!. Gave the instructions to the owner, have not heard back so I guess he got it done!

So what, at least he ain't whining---------- much! Hummmm- no negatives--- I am suddenly feeling the need to totally p*** someone off!

Hummmm, an '02 model should not leak coolant into the gearbox side unless the drain(veny) hole between the two seals is sealed shut! Doubt it would run well overheated

When yur head explodes!

Get you a bottle water, run the bike up through the gears an do 2-3 good stops from 30-40mph to warm the disc, then douse it with the water to shock cool it. Do this 2-3 times then allow it to cool and resume normal operation. If this is not quite enough, start process over. Your new pads need to "cure" in and this takes a bit of thermal cycling to firm up well.

I have never heard of this being anything but a seal problem. How old are they, and what brand? I doubt the bearings would be the issue unless they are terribly loose, being able to move the crankshaft up-down 1mm or so. Probably sound rough too. Another way to test for excess gearbox vent pressure would be to submerse the end of the tube in a cup of water and look for bubbles.

Those things cost crazy money! But I think I found something a few of us can afford!

Are you not the one formerly known as Gasgas Ben?

One could probably use one of those recluse clutch things, either without a lever at all, or with minimal need for it. Basically an auto clutch, with mechanical override. Only trials bike I have seen it fit was the Scorpa 125-175 4T motor.

We don't really FIX anything here! It is a lot like riders, you see. We just get things back together in time for the next crash! You can't fix stupid!

The open side of the seals do face the center of the motor, if that is what you are referring to.

You are referring to the damping adjuster screw I believe. If it is all well clean and working, you should be able to feel slight clicks in it's positioning at around 1/4 turn each as I recall. Do not force it if it is bound up. It will break. On my '07, which should be similar, I seem to recall turning to right increased damping, backing out left reduced it. About 20ish click range. You just gotta find your preferred setting. On my year I run it in all the way, then backed out about 3 clicks.

I think this means the Canooks now all have to go to TN to ride!!!!!!!

I am trying to get the stick out your rear, recip appreciated! Seems Baldi is stuck in the muck!