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copemech

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Everything posted by copemech
 
 
  1. "When you take the kill switch out of the picture does the ground to the frame need to be unplugged or just the spade connector that goes to the CDI?" Answer, no, it is out of circuit. Unfortunatly, over time I have not really found any common issues here. Specially if intermittant. All seems a bit spotty, and simple resistance tests are too. Long story made short, you need to swap the key components to iosolate this, starting with ehe easiest and cheapest, being the CDI. This requires friends or you gotta call Ryan to see if he will let you try a loaner. Next logigial step would be the stator, all else being eliminated. These can be fixed, but you gotta send them off. Seems Sherco don't just sell it, you gotta buy a whole new unit. But Ryan could have updates on this issue. There are resistance specs on the stator, sketchy, got to look them up or refer you. Get back with what you hear from Ryan, and what he has to say.
  2. copemech

    fork seals

    Now Jon, those are for other things, Now you see they have put the Zokes on the Sherco! aT SOME POINT SOMEONE IS GOING TO ASK! I have not a clue, not having done them, but my general perception seems much similar to the cartridge style Pailoi fork based upon what you describe. Only one side on the Paioli , though. On the Paioli, the only way you can set the level correctly by volume is to extract the damper unit and pump it dry prior to reinstall, then all works fine based upon volume. And only then. Setting by level, neglecting the procedure mentioned above, seemed difficult to me on the Paioli, even though I tried. Difficult at best to get a good dipstick measure. Do they use thes on both sides of the Zokes? No idea here, but in the case of the other, quantity still seems to win out if done right.
  3. I should add the comments of why I linda like the rulas the way they are. Sometimes after going up, down around , over, under through and then start over for a few more, I may suffer from spacial disorientatation and brain overload in a section. I may go into "sticker shock" mode after three and just want to paddle my but out of there to regain composure at some point! Thank God for 3's!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  4. Now you see! Just about the time we get over the foot fetish thing, you got some gut like Zipper posting the entire MOTA rulebook in one paragraph! Now, I do think there are a few up there that had a bit too much fun back in the 60's or 70's, but I also think there are a few that grew up there, and think everything is normal!
  5. Not seen any pics, but I would likely think it indeed a res for the shock. Seems they are always up to trying stuff! Someone said at some point back they were running Showa internals in the Paoli fork?
  6. Might try temporary disconnect of the kill switch. Also ck the ground point for the CDI unit is clean and tight.
  7. copemech

    Any info

    They are a performance oriented machine as set from factory it seems. Last 250 I rode in '10 seemed fine out the box for me, but I been stuck on the 2.9's mostly, as all that is available here for the most part. My '05 250 was fine after a bit of settling, and still a fav. The 250 was often referred to as a "quicker" bike by many, but my impression on this is simply the fact it has a bit less low end grunt than a 2.9(272), so to make biger power you got to take into the revs a bit more. Not being a big fellow, at what I think translates to your 11.5-12 stone, the things move me just fine and then some. Not as good a lazyman bike as a 2.9 on pure grunt or for a heavier rider. I'm not sure if you stated it somewhere, but does this bike have the VHST 28 on it?(i don't like 28's, elliptical excess, will toutch on this later) Where is the timing currently? Having had to try and adjust these things to my taste for years now, and trying to help others do the same, yet taste varies and none the same. I am not really sure the inlet spacer makes a lot of difference. A had one on my '05 250 though. Nor base gaskets for that matter. I run the Boyeseen reeds, seem more progressive, to a point. I think the old 26 PHBL may be better if set well, I am still on the 24 OKO and is butter smooth. The 26 would be the ref, based upon Neo's testing on the 250. I ride a lot in second gear. I use the clutch to apply smooth power and find grip, reguardless of rpm or gearing. This requires a re-think of your riding style. Add a good working clutch.(mods) I run with 2 springs out of the clutch for light operation as not to tyre my power finger. In a way, i wish they had a bit more flywheel weight, but this is not an old TY yam in a Scorpa, thus it is me left to deal with my own limitations, and prefs. I gotta learn the bike! And feddle with it! If there were a perfect bike, then everyone would have it!
  8. copemech

    fork seals

    That is just "soo" sick, Jon!!!! At this rate, he'll be using the "Trapezoid" next! Put a friggin condom on it, they are pre-lubed! Just trim off the little ring after install! Anythingwill slide right on!
  9. Not sure who writes all this. I would never suppose to expect them to just say what it means. If a dab with rotation is just a dab, just say it! Put in an explanation example or something if it is that vague. I guess I could just staple the page to my hat, and hand out two points to everyone that wiggled the toes! Makes taking points a lot earier that way!
  10. They live in their own world! Of clutter!
  11. Oh it's not then? Although the current NATC rules do seem to follow the WTC rules, the same debate over stop and hop and no stop seems a debacle in the UK? WTF do you do on Sunday? I suppose none are leinient on no stop! Total Hogwash!
  12. All this is soo very true! You can also just sit on the bike with your toes in the front spokes,rocking the bike under you to maintain balance. Nothing special, but gives you the feel. Transitioning to the pegs from that stance is a challenge! Putting the front wheel up, onto , over of against something is next. A wall, log, whatever!
  13. Does seem a spotty issue with the things going bannana, but I have seen this before so you can use me as a referance on that(or Ryan Young as well), happened on a brand new bike out the box over a day! ps- You might need a really good #1 phillips driver and a bit of blue locktite for those tiny reed screws as I recall.
  14. I think I would ck with your supplier on warranty for that. Seems to me that occasionally one will get through that is improperly heat treated or something, too soft and bends like a bannana as you said. A good one will not do that.
  15. I suppose you should go ahead with them since you have it stripped.
  16. copemech

    Codge!

    Reading back, this is a whores dream! Andy must be reeling by now! tattoo on the
  17. This is true, it is called a "knock back" on the pads, causing them to have to move further on the next apply. Either is possible. When you insert the diaphram into the MC, it should fill cause the res to fill to top/ no air!
  18. re the clear bowls: I seem to recall sometime back that there was some issue with them, yet I cannot recall. Put me off them at the time though. Could have been the added material thickness causing an interferance with the enging cases. May have been fron Neo's works, let's see if he chimes in on this.
  19. Oh jeez, I gotta do a u-tube vid on this I guess. I gotta put that on my list! Hopefully the thing is reasonably clean on the outside. Get yourself some carby spray from the auto store, or brake cleaner will do. The main jet is held in the bottom screw used to remove the bowl. The idle jet sets just behind it in the carb body. Remove them both and clean everything spotless with the spray. The idle jet is tiny, and you must be able to see through them both. A fine wire to pass through may help insure it is clear. 0.3mm or so. Remove the fuel inlet banjo bolt and ck the screen as well. Blow out passages in carb bore wiht the cleaner. When you are sure it is all clean enough to eat off of, then re assemble. Same level of clean for carb bore and slide w/needle. One bit of dirt can stick it wide open,not good. You may lube the slide lightly with light oil before insertion on reassembly to insure it snaps shut properly before restarting the bike, audible click if all correct. ps- compressed air with a blower helps. Good luck! Did I say spotless?
  20. I'm with Jon on this! Not sure if this something new we need to ignore or not! Been planned dabs and pivot turns in trials for decades best I can tell.
  21. Put a couple pints in the frige and you could probably get Slapshot3 over for some help! Aberdeenshire can't be that big, surely!
  22. Welcome, Should be a few round here to help you out! Get into the twinshock forum and blast away!
 
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