copemech

I feel your pain here Ben! Although the 3.2 can be a great bike in the right hands, doubt i would recommend one for the novice rider. Your question does open a whole can-o-worms here, yet put simply, Yes, there are a few tricks to making a 2.9 settle nicely, yet a bit limited, as it is what it is, which may well work for you after the 3.2--------- Other part of the same sentance is the fact that a 2.5 would be a better choice if you can find it, yet if not , there are still many amongst us that have come to get along well with a 2.9, as it is really only, what, 23cc, or 10% larger displacement? One BIG thing I would point out to you as a novice rider is the fact that the clutch is your friend. (and golden parachute) It is the thing that applies power at all times! If you rely only upon the motor to find traction, you will fail! Find yourself a slippery little section. Possibly even a slight grassy grade or mound of slick dirt with a down hill turn to a up! Whatever challenges you. Nasty sloppy turn. Try it in first gear, as normal, then try it in 2nd gear, forced to use clutch to apply power and find traction with it, then try third gear in the same, rev the motor all you wqant, yet feel for the traction using the clutch and smooth application, no lack of power here, it is there but you do not want it so you have to feel with the clutch, which with practice becomes easier, reguardless of motor, or revs, or even bike for that matter. A 125 will clean more sections without spinning more than any thing! Why? Go figure?

Oh God Billy, what are you onto now! If I made one with natural sounds, it would be disgusting! As I usually load up on Mexican food on the night before a trials, I fart at efery obsticle! And if there is a big one, I may have more that that! Not to mention dropping the "F" bomb every damned time I dropa foot! You are better off with S--t music, although you have never made a 2T bike run as smooth as mine in your life, so that would just get you peed as well.

Show us what you did to it! We like bent barts!

Good point! I wonder what temp ranges the VP fuels are really designed for? I suspect a bit warmer ranges than the Avgas(cooler at altitudes). Aircraft do not like hot restarts on that stuff, either. Cannot really use it here in summer, but in winter seems fine.

Goes it drag badly enough to creep at stops with lever pulled in fully? Did you replace all the plates, of just the fibre ones?

No, air in the line just makes for a limp clutch lever. Typically,if the plates are slipping, pumping the lever might get the plates to slam back together a bit for a moment, but I would inspect for worn plates or weak springs I think? Might check that the pin on the lever where it enters the master cyl has just a bit of clearance to allow the MC piston to fully retract and open the return port for the fluid so there is no residual pressure held in the line. Look under that rubber boot for dirt as well, if you have not!

May or may not relate here, but I can tell you for fact that if I leave my little Yam Serow set for a week or more with the fuel valve on the tank in the on position, it will not start. It has an electric start, and you will just run down the battery trying. Much more tha I ever want to kick one. Now if the fuel valve is shut off prior to putting the bike in the shed, letting the fuel bowl run down to nothing prior to killing the motor, it can sit for weeks. I turn on the tank valve, let the bowl fill, apply choke(no throttle) and it willbust right off in a few turns. Explanation? The high aeromatics in the fuel vent off in the bowl, the remainder does not atomize well enough to light off. To start it, one must pull the air filter and give a quick shot of carby cleanre spray into the open bore of the carb. Lights right off! Note: Starting fluid (diethyl ether) not recommended! Now I do realize these bikes are different(carbs), yet similar in many respects, and with the crap fuel we get today, may yet still apply to yours.

This one is HOT! Strip Tease

No, I doubet either Dan or Baldi here, Ice is Ice and Emulsified crap is just that, all point being, just how is it induced? Yes, the venturi effects of a carby, specially at low openings, will cause a drop in temp specially when combined with the atomization of the fuel. In Baldi's case, fact is by the time you strip it to witness anything, it may have melted, sort of like the Daggar of ice, no smoking gun here. Just residue. Other thing about the alcohol in the fuel, which may be 10% here, and if I understand correctly will absorb up to half of it's own volume of water or condensation into solution, just what happens to this percentage of the mix of fuel, alcohol, oil and water as it passes through the passages and into the cold venturi? Does the water in suspension suddenly turn to an accumulation of sludge at or near the orface? Could this gel if not freeze entirely? Huh? Doubt this crap would suddenly fall out of suspension and separate. I have been running higher concentrations of the AV fuels during the winter months, no alcohol, and no problems. Yet at the same time, that is just my experience here, in an even warmer climate.

Take a good look deep down in there!!! If there is anything laying in the bottom of the airbox, you need to get it out. Methods vary here. Minor, I will swab it out with a rod and towel tied on it, then go again with a clean one with a bit of carby cleaner on it to scour things. Anything major, pull the airbox. 2 screws, one clamp, flush and dry.

The old bunch do get out for an easy ride in the competitions as Borus stated, but two things come to mind on older bikes, parts and support are nil, you are limiting your experience with a limited bike. They have their place, it is all good, but yet a much more limited class of riders. You are young, do not limit yourself, the other is optional,and limited. I could just put all this in another way! I am 53 years old. I rode a fair amount as example when they was new in the 70's. They were crap then and still are, so I stayed with MX untill times passed. Riding new ones, I do not miss those slugs! Spoiled! There are few I would like or want. Just being practicle here. Opinions may vary. Don't want a shed queen!

I do seem to recall thse were painted. For toutch-up, I would sand a bit using #180 grit, then finish with #400, find some Dupli-Color in Silver Charcoal at the auto parts store! Blend as required.

Yes, carb icing can be an issue given certain temps and humidities, yet I am suddenly stricken by the fact that the damned alcohol laced fuel is also hygroscopic and may contain a lot of moisture that could adversly effect things with the fuel itself and dropout of water in the mix. Clean your carbs and fuel cans as well!!!

Yes, and I will tell you now, make yourself a foam plug(closed cell that does not leak)to go in the air filter hole and plug it. ANY TIME you wash the bike, or have been in muddy wet riding, pull the fender, pull the filter and inspect airbox and filter. Plug the hole(and exhaust)then wash away. If you wash the bike, even with hose, you will wash water and dirt through the filter, engine is next, reguardless of lo area in airbox. Things go downhill from there. Takes minutes to do it properly, you can pull fuel tank and block fuel line as well, depending upon condition, another 30 seconds. But, when you go back, things are clean and inspected prior to next ride.!!!!

I tend to agree. I have had several over the years and they all did it. It was fairly noticable on the '07, and I messed with the thing on and off for quite some time. It was not untill I went to the #38 pilot jet that it went away for the most. There are reasons for all this, but you are also causing a momentary lean condition by chopping the throttle. Seems recent reports reveal many still running 33 range using UK fuel, but this would not suffice here. You will have to run the mix screw in a bit with the richer pilot. Mine was in 1.5-1.75 range on the 38. On hard starts in cold weather, current recco is to take the choke jet(one with o-ring in bottom of bowl)out from 60-70 range to #80. This requires a new jat or a 0.8mm(1/32in)drill. Kickback on starts, find the tickmark on the stator, it should normally be alighned with the right edge of the top casting web. Take it counter clockwise 2-3mm to help, a bit more to soften the motor, yet not beyond 6mm slow of original.

Dick, none the others left you a reply!

No, it means you are just as lazy as me!

Barium enema, the best conductor you will ever have! Beats drilling mud!

Uh! That is just wrong on so many levels!!!! Wonder if the Andy has kept his Viagra pen(writing instrument), as it seems they are hard to come by now due to certain regulations along the lines of the wifey's drug reps not allowed to distribute gifts!!!!!! Some of these were actually quality piece, and I still have one here in the shed. Collectors item!!!! I think Slapshot may have one? I probably need to send one to Big John and Bigfoot! There is only a small assortment remaining! Possibly Ham and Addict, I think I got one to Dabster at some point. Possibly Tim F.(TFT) would like one, Atomant, or even Jon and Percy? Send a PM, with Addy, supply is limited to about 5-6 as I recall.

This is stilla fav , yet I think they are all gone now! My link

Yes,the things come with a seal, thus the "S" suffix on the number, yet with gentile coaxing the seal will pop out and back in. As a plus, Tom B. in Midlothian has most anything you you might need on hand. Great fellow. You would do well to call on him for local support.

They are both #6004-2RS,sealed bearings, fairly common, try Autozone or O'Reillys. They sell cheap ones on fleabay, most made in China, but some good ones as well. Pop the seals out with a small prick under the lips and pack them well with good grease! Love you long time if you keepm them packed!!!

Personally, I have no problems with group riding and group scoring as long as it is done properly. I think there should be one Sr rider whom is reputable and unbiased assigned to each group of 5 or so, and he carries the punch and responsibility! Each rider is in observance, and with a mixed group of both upper and lower class riders a fair score can be taken! Little hiding here! If there is an issue, the group will decide on the spot! As cheaters in trials are only really cheating themselves by lieing, most find few issues in a club environment of friends. However , this in itself places accountability on the rider in charge of his group for fairness and accuracy of the scores. This should be agreed upon and the rules held. As a rider, I usually pride myself in being honest, and few doubt me because of it. As such the case of a distracted observer. If they must ask, then I must tell! Even with a designated observer in a regular trial, if there is only one, then his scope is limited, and sometimes points are lost or hidden due to terrain and such. Seems no one else cares, or cannot do anything about it as they are not the observer, and what the observer does not see, he cannot score, as doubt goes to the rider. All said, on a simple club trials, I prefer the group rides and good company of mixed riders for a good day out. Everyone can go out, break for lunch, then go back out to finish the day and go home in a decent time. Splitting the day between am/pm riders makes for a long day. Great for more signifigant events such as State or Regional series, but just for an average weekend club get out, it just seems a bit much to me if you got maybe 20-30 riders (or less) that just want to ride a bit!

Found another classic, with minutes left for Chrimbo! And another classic, My link

For the most part,gearbox is a non issue on a Sherco, as well as clutches with the exception of 125's that get heavily flogged. Rear suspention linkage is a key point and should be well serviced and well greased. Even off new, one might expect to find roughly 3mm of total stack slack in the system if the bike was on a stand and pulling up at the rear of the swingarm. Same might go for a gasser, yet I have not tried one. I would not consider a 2.9 an excellent beginner bike, but you can tame then a bit if needed. A 250 seems a bit more docile and better suited for average clubman use, yet many still get anong fine with a 2.9, as they just have more across the power and can be a handfull. Long as the bike is in overall good nick, doubt I would be scared of it.