copemech

Do not discount Scorpa and Montesa! Quickness of suspension will not buy you traction. t requires some damping to keep things hooked to the ground. Weight means nothing when the wheels are on the ground! If I were out in BFE, a Montesa would be looking real good! A less aggressive bike is easier to ride! ALL DAY!

Just because you failed to fully comprehend the brief caution I gave you on the use of it on aluminum does not make my response "LAME" or unhelpful! It is some nasty crap and will hurt you! It works well on steel parts but must be used with caution on ali. And let us not even touch on the fact you are hijacking the thread.

Read, muppet! Dissolving amphoteric metals and compounds[edit] Strong bases attack aluminium. Sodium hydroxide reacts with aluminium and water to release hydrogen gas. The aluminium takes the oxygen atom from sodium hydroxide, which in turn takes the oxygen atom from the water, and releases the two hydrogen atoms, The reaction thus produces hydrogen gas and sodium aluminate. In this reaction, sodium hydroxide acts as an agent to make the solution alkaline, which aluminium can dissolve in. This reaction can be useful in etching, removing anodizing, or converting a polished surface to a satin-like finish, but without further passivation such as anodizing or alodining the surface may become degraded, either under normal use or in severe atmospheric conditions.

not good on ali!

Usually requires some hard fast running to get the gunk in the pipe to light off and burn like this. An excess accumulation of it over time is not a good thing. Another thing would be too slow(retarded) ignition timing.

Cannot recall the last time Pat had that many! Dem WTC boys can ride! Sections must be pretty tough, but a good learning experience for Pat as well, no shame there! Wonder if that Mont is close to stock? Martin!!!!?

I highly recommend this mod as well, regardless of all else. But I also remove the overflow tube, plug it, stops the p******. Makes the bowl easy to remove and install. I think the Beta PWK has the best idea with the verticle vent tube on the later ones. Add the second and go. Not sure how they got that?

All stated is pretty much true in my thinking, and I also consider it a design limitation of the PWK. Add that a 125 may be more sensitive to the mixture fluxuations. The things to minimize it are few, that I am aware of. A good throttle blip on downhills helps keep things going, a little bump in idle speed. I also think the 28 is overcarbed for the 125, pity they do not do a 26. They meter well overall and make big power, but a Kiehin is quirky!

floats do not go level on these carbs. Try this, I think it was closer to 21mm, but just use the casting as a guide.

No! You cannot do that! The bike will be confused and mentally damaged! It may turn gay!

A Sherco will buck and surge quite a bit when chugging along at idle. They do not have THAT much flywheel effect. Use the clutch for smoothing, only slight I set my idle so it will chug along by itself on flat ground, even in second gear.. If you get into stalling problems, retarding the ignition timing a bit on the stator plate, like 3mm, can make a difference. Al;though I have not done this on the new ones.

I agree with what Dan suggested. I think that year still ran the Leonelli ignition and Splatshop usually keeps a rebuilt stator on hand for exchange. If you are not limp booting it and it is hard to start that is what I would check, although all you can really check is the flywheel woodruff key, then you are down to the stator and no real way to test it properly on the bench.

Is it kicking back at you when it does this?

Makes me wonder just a bit on just who the previous owner was? Some of them can be a bit harsh on a clutch! Basically, to move the bite point OUT, you would want to back off the lever stop to allow the lever to move out further, then screw the plunger screw in to compensate and take up the slack. The catch here, and it is a BIG one, is that the plunger screw can only be adjusted so far in. A slight clearance or pre travel is preferred which allows the piston in the master cyl to return fully and open the fluid return port inside. Over adjustment here is a common problem to avoid. If the clutch has had hard use, the plates could be warped a bit causing excess drag and requiring more lever movement. You may move the lever a long way, but the actual clutch pack only moves a couple of MM to make things work.

Best thing I have seen lately! https://youtu.be/FKCt4k7nRRI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FKCt4k7nRRI

Back too the OP, my rule is to always change the plug at the first signs of hard starting. Then you get into the gasser ergo issues, well, that is why I could never ride one. Between the shifter and the kicker, I am out! Although a lot of folks make it look easy and they are great performing bikes. I have always wondered if the gasser engine pattern bikes such as the Jgas, TRS and Vertigo share these traits?

Sounds like a stock Sherco of the year. Has some wear, naturally. Just ride it. Barring things changing this is a non issue.

I guess it was Pat's day in the hole today on day 2 at TTC. One mistake and you are DONE!

Pat must have had one of them bad days! He lets some old retired WTC rider smoke him! I am glad he had the challenge! Putt is just awesome! I think I counted more Monts in the Pro class than Gassers! Biff and Martina made the trip, congrats!

Where are results posted?

Freixa, really? Where is Brope?

The " top hat" in the cover that applies the fingers, should push back fully as I recall. Do not pull it out, as you will loose the fluid and have to bleed the air out of the hydrolic side of the system. The fluid should push back into the master cyl. if the lever is not over-adjusted and the M/C piston is able to fully return opening the return port to relieve residual pressure.. If all else fails, you could "crack" the line fitting to allow a bit of fluid out under pressure, but this will not fix the problem. Over adjustment of the 'pin" on the lever and dirt/corrosion may prevent the MC piston from returning fully. The rubber boot where the pin pushes the M/C piston will hold dirt, water and corrosion which will require overhaul or replacement.

Stock carb should be fine.

Adjust for best running, usually around three turns out.

You would be well advised to obtain the proper holding tool and torque it properly. Someone was selling the tool cheap on ebay I think. Or ck with Splatshop.