copemech

Sounds as though you have really got yourself into the thick of it now! Personally, I would be asking myself "Why is it Paxau did not think of this" ! After you have thought that out, you might find your answer.

6:10 am

F--- me! look at that! You know I am sort of an Ossa fan, as I only owned the Yankee for 30 years! Not to mention, this bike incorporates many of my own design principals that I had already laid out mentally! Oh well , form follows function! It is a bold but logical departure from the norm,and yet unproven, and there may yet be problems to overcome. Looks like a good start!

John is right, I stand corrected, meant Beta! But for those interisted, I could easily run a slim plastic tube down it, cap it with the finger and tell you the level. Could also calibrate the tube if need be. Damn, that is what we do in aircraft, when one really wants to know when those unreliable guages are lying to you, what a pain! Pity poor trials riders that never managed to calculate their average run time, in LPH, as they may have no clue! If one needs to get specific, it can be done!

A lot of this back to my original beef, as the things don't normally fit worth ****! I have no idea what they have done on the Caby bikes? I am still not sure the nylon can be easily reformed. The airbox will reform like butter with a blow gun, and can make a really nice fit against the rear frame and the side along the muff.

Damn, I should have put two and two together on that, as the others statat the 330ml spec is incorrect for that year model. Bottom line is you need to remove the damping unit to hand pump all the old oil out, then you can go back with the stated quantity at 370ml , work the leg a bit to get the air out of the damper and all should be fine. As I recall, I had a bit of a problem with the airspace measurement thing, cannot recall exactly why but something to do with the rod attached to the cap or summat, but no matter as if youget it all out, you can put it all back correctly with the standard quantity and work it a bit to expell the air, then cap it!

Never heard any reports on this, yet a thorough inspection may be recommended. The damping unit can be removed.

Same as a friggin gasser or mont!

You beat me to that one!

Many folks stay in Jasper or Kimball, you can find a place to leave bikes and such on site and just come back in the AM, not a prob. There are a full range of decent hotels available, and good food. All within probably 15 min from the site.

Yes they do, for the given bend, but the renthal specs on a 5.5 are really just 10mm(not 13) higher than the 5.0.

Tthe tanks are different, making the fit on my '07 a real cram! And the '08 may be the same. Once the carb and airbox were fitted, I actually had to ues a tire lever against toe top of the carb against the muff to get it to swist enough in the mounts to clear the tank. The swist is putting the bowl hard up against the rear brake resivour and it is really nedein to be modified. Addind insult to injury, seems my tank has grown about 8mm in length over the years. I do not think you can reset the nylon tank with heat, as you may well ruin it trying, as I believe it to be a "thermoset" plastic with memory! Others may correct me here!

Sounds like he does know how to ride a bit! Hope he is happier now with a good running bike!

Try and PM Rlracer, he built a few of his own that will do out of ths carbon. The pipe does get too hot for the carbon resin to withstand it, but it does work for a while.

This is a difficult question from mom's pov. There are cabins on site if arranged well in advance, along with a central shower facility(s). Some food may be available on site, burgers and such. There is also camping area. The "C" store is down the road a few miles. The town is further. May be 8-10 miles to the decent hotel and grub and 3 more to the Walmart! Bottom line, you probably need a car to go into town or hotel unless you are well prepared(not)!

This topic is a bit of a quagmire as much just depends upon what you want from it. Granted, they typically do not tend to stick the plates from cold with fresh oil, yet changing every ride is a bit of overkill! You did not state which oil you are using, but 10-40 is the factory recommended still. You can go to a thicker oil, which should slow the reaction. You can also go back to the "short" AJP levers, as compared to the medium length. As the lever ratio is more progressive. Your lever adjuster should be set to start dragging with the lever just off the fingers on the bars, so you have some release clearance there and still puts the "full pop" range well out from "creep" mode. Another thing is to use second gear for most all your practice operations, as it will force you to train the finger to slip the clutch and find traction! Get your finger out on the lever more when needed. Mind you, I am still running the opposite strategy, running two less opposing springs in the basket and a light ATF! Makes the clutch a bit floaty under hard acceleration, yet finds a really good slip range for average stuff! Not recommended for mor aggressive riders. Clutch doesnot seem to stick from cold as bad. Yet , word to the wise, never totally trust one when slammed into gear, as you might put yourself into a stationary object! Best thing is to always put the bikke up into 4th or 5th gear and rock it to insure the clutch is free before starting. This is just good practice.

That is basically what I thought, which also opens up the possibilty of the direct usage of the OKO's in smaller bore of 24 and 26 for them. As there does seem to be better controllability and progression than the rather quick 28. I have been on this 24mm thing with the Sherco 2.9 and am liking it, as it seems much more progressive and linear in response in the low range, and I could really care less about how full throttle operation works, yet I really cannot tell much difference. Oh well just a thought! Thoughts being that a clubman rider that finds the 290 a handful may well like the 24 and the same with a 250 rider, but may like the 26 as well, as this is closer to Beta basics with the VM26. All in all, just things for some to consider, as some may want to! Cheers, MC

God, man !!! Show it to her!!!! Good thin she did not go to the movies! Figured you would hav let her have a good chuckle by now! Just get it over with man! I married mine because she was a cheap date with a sense of houmor!

It looks to me that they have moved everything aft! There is daylight in there, so the 4T motor should go in!

9-44 is standard on the 125 last I seen, but many of the hot dog riders use the 48 on the rear to make 2nd and 3rd gear more usable.

No prob!

Oklahoma! But that should not be a problem for you, as I am sure you installed the expensive seals when you did your motor, right! Hello, zipster,are you there----- you did, did you not?

Oh hell, I knew there was something I was supposed to do this weekend!!!!!!

Will Ibsen has retired?

HERE is a start!