copemech

There were some shaft changes on earlier bikes, but this should not apply to your model. The purpose of the drain hole is to detect seal leakage and prevent coolant migration into the gearbox side. It is possible you could have a leaky seal, but you would need to inspect the shaft to determine if there was sig wear to justify replacement. I would do both seals reguardless. Possibility of breaking a clutch case gasket upon disassembly.

You should not need to change springs at your weight. 1/6 the travel would be about right for static sag with no rider. With rider it would be closer to 1/3 or 80mm. On the later forks, most just run the preload flush with the cap. No springs have ever been changed to my knowledge. Even with much heavier riders. 5wt oil is used by most.

Good relaxed times were held at the TTC last weekend! Everyone old and new got to do their thing and there were many smiling faces there, some worked, some rode, some practiced some just had a good time! Folks from all over I seen, D4, D7, Mota, KY, GA, TN, MI and TX. I know I must be missing some here! I seen some guy named Geoff from Co on monday! Lots of expert teachers! Ryan Young included! Ray, Ron, Ronnie, Jim, Pat, Alex, David, Charlie, and Dan (who am I forgetting) all did their thing and everyone got a workout! Including those Miller brothers! Notable notes included Joe Kutchey(MI) showing up to practice with te Pros!(No Biff) Chase Harker is just better than ever!(This kid has talent!) Good times had by all!

It is risky, but try placing a 6mm (10 outside) nut over the broken nipple, then MIG weld the remaining bits to the nut through the hole. If you are lucky it will take and come right out, if not? You have a nutty screwed caliper!

I hope you work through all this, did they need replacing after all? This is a prime example of why (if i needed) these, I just get factory parts. Not worth the mental anguish! Get and go! It has taken longer to read and attempt to comprehend this thread than it would take me to do the motor job! My brane hurts now!

450ml!

I have a truing stand that was made up from square tubing hastily welded together. V-ed out at the top so the axle will lay in. Then some spacers so things stay somewhat centered. A screw with wire added as a guage. Seems these trials rims are far from perfect many times to begin with. I just try to get them all relaxed and even, then pull on one sideor the other to bring things inline, then relax some if needed, then bring all up evenly and see what you got and make minor adjustsments from there. Seems to me most of this can be done with only the screwdriver on the slotted nipples if everything is working freely. Excess tension negates flexability on a trials bike. Moderate tension and a bit of a ring when tapping the spoke is all that is required so long as it is relatively even. If you must pull one side you may have to relax the other. As long as you get them within a few(2-3 mm), you will never know the difference on a trials bike, as your tires may be out more than the rims. Hope that helps!

Did I not previously mention the float issue, let it be!

Neo, that info was posted by Ryan in the Forum threads under tech help or something! The only way I know to get a personal measure is to put a new ring into the unworn section of your bore. Does sound as though you need a top ring!

That movement sounds very normal to me, as there are just pieces of rubber in there to absorb impact loads. Large movement and clunking would be an indication that the rubbers were a goner!

I doubt there would be much wrong as the fan is cycling. On a cool day they do not run for long periods. I seem to recall a marking on those thermoswitches, yet I cannot recall the spec! But in the 180-195 f range.

Not me, not possible as I know. The Beta is the only one I know of that shares a common stroke with the 200 and 250 and may interchange. The problems mentioned would prohibit a rebore.

From the RYP site. ".001 US on the piston/cyl and .020 on the ring gap." (in inches) Take that as you like, as I presume these are new limits(or near). ?

Yea, I just got back tonight! After spending most of the day blasting the mountain roads on the dual sport and seeing the sights, then add the 12 hrs drive home today, my butt hurts! Geoff rolled back into TTC yesterday, said he had not been home since January! I missed seeing Paul, as he was there I think, or at least l think i seen his name somewhere.

Well, Neo?

Stork does make good points! And as he well knows, the best plug in most vehicles is the one that WORKS, and has been proven to work well! USUALLY the one that is recommended by the manufacturer or its close varient by the same plug manufacturer. Even at that, you are not guaranteed good results! Change brands or whatever, you then become their #1 test pilot! Trust me, I have found out the hard way, which is not the good way. This nut tends not to stray far from the tree! Yet there are other things I can tell, such as the generally accepted fact that the premium fine wire plugs used in piston aircraft are known for paying for themselves in increased fuel efficiency over time due to better ignition properties. The simple ability to ignite the fuel in the hole is better! If you think this has no import, then take your average piston aircraft, running on dual mags and dual plugs for redundancy, then cut off one mag(and set of plugs), there may be a rpm drop of as much as 5%! Those special plugs for aircraft may cost $50 each! Multiply by 2 per cyl! They get expensive! Yet this is just an example of better efficiency as compared to a massive electrode standard plug. Storks other point in relation to the car. Well, if you just started it up and went from section to section while shutting down and restarting every time, it would likely fowl plugs too! Fuel or oil would make little difference here if you never really got out and drove the friggin car! As these things require a bit of normal running and cleaning out from time to time. Seems some negate that fact and just putt about, shut down, putt, shut putt,shut! If you never evem attempt to see if your bike will even achieve maximum RPM, then it may well not when you need it most! Blow some soot out of it! This is basic plug maintenance!

Even my little Serow has a bit of bark to it! I think if Iever get a 3.2 i will gut the muff, just because I can! And nobody really cares! Here! Might sound like a real 4T then!

Well, even Wayne's experience has seemed to justify the filter recommendation. I just cannot testify as to how good those things really are(in micron size) to keeping crap out, but anything is better than (next to) nothing, and these things seem to be very sensitive, not only in the 4T, as I have had it in the 2T as well. As I could go soo far to mention that I have seen the Pro's clean and inspect carbs prior to any event, i would at least add too, drain, into a clear bottle and just see what kind of sediment or moisture is coming out of your fuel can peridocially, when you empty it! You may be surprised! If not, just pour it in the tank! At least you checked it!

I am not neccessarily cheap, just pragmatic. And if it ain't broke, well? Oh yes, it would be out at the first sign of problems, but it just has not been the case. Not unlike Jon, it is somewhat interisting to see just what these things will do. Of course, over time one learns to help prevent fouling by getting some heat in the motor, giving them a good run and revving to keep the motor cleaned out which helps prevent these issues on any plug. Those that do not, will not! I could ramble on about the materials and specs, but basically within the NGK range of standard ES, platinum VX and irridium IEX range the premium materials have better electrical properties and the smaller electrodes offer less "shielding" to the mixture they are bound to ignite. In other words, the more massive electrodes actually act as a shield against the flow of the mixture and the spark wanders on the broad surfaces as compared to the smaller and more pinpoint (and open to the mix) electrodes. I have never considered electrode wear to be an issue, under proper conditions they could well outlast the motor! Running the gap! Well that is another story and theory in itself! All I will tell you is that your average motorcycle ignition has no excess of electrical power to run things, which is why many mfg recommendations are limited to 0.5 gap settings to run reliably. Taking advantage of the better electrical properties of the modern plugs may let you open that up a bit, which simply provides better spark and ignition. If you can reliably open up that 0.5 gap to say 0.6, what is your percentage difference in flamefront propagation? Looking up, 20%, looking down,maybe 15%. If the ignition system will support the added gap, the motor will run cleaner off the bottom and start easier. If it will not, it may cause other problems such as hard starting and poor response under high load conditions.

That is why, I suggested! Ck out the Toyota color, I could be totally off here, but would like to know, as you just have to see it side by side.

Although more difficult to find, I still run the non resistor(platinum) VX plug opened up to .7mm without problem. On the resistor EX plugs I would limit the gap to .6mm I think. Some bikes require the resistor plug, some do not, like the Sherco. I have not changed plugs in over two years now, knock wood!

I think the item you made about it being only after warm makes a difference in things as they reach normal operating temps. That, too me still makes the piston suspect. I think you would need to remove things to proprely guage them. These things are set up soo tight from new, there should be nil movenent between skirt and bore. I will admit to having done some stress testing on my 2.9, probably running it well over 12,000 rpm on the road. I don't think the piston appreciated it much, has a bit of rattle hot, not bad though. Normal bikes will probably never see this. Running the light clutch(springs out) and the lighter fluid to compensate, there is more noticable primary side gear rattle, although nothing like a gasser.

Wow, that is a great comparison, and qui(e)t a difference! Although I prefer them loud, as we have no noise restrictions where we ride.

Not sure, but that Toyota blue I have seen on the FJ cruisers looks real good. Would have to compare it! Personally, I just can not do anything permanant with the powder coat, as it seems spot repairs and match are just too difficult. (yes that stuff chips too)