copemech

Looks as though there may be a nick out of the seal, but leaking still. Not sure where you are located, but a couple of the UK guys reported that the distributor replaced the shock with the '07 version for a minimal fee. Otherwise, I would seek out the adjustable TRP, or the Ohlins dependant upon cost. The rebound adjustment lets you quicken them up a bit. The squeak noise usually means u need to spray some lube on the lower bushing jount. If it starts making a squishing sound when you push on the mudguard, the oil in the shock is getting low, but yours may not be there yet!

Enrico, I had to go with the D 40, it is the only one that will fit my standard case logic bum bag and hang sefely off the belt when riding. It has most the features of the D 80 and a bargain price. The resolution is soo good, if you took Dave's pic of the waterfall as an example, and just wanted to crop out the hotel on the cliff, it would make a fine standard size print. Probably with the standard lens. The 55-200 is optional, but nice! If I find I need one, I will get it, but that will be special purpose only. This stuff is soo good it will make you chunk rocks at 35mm. Much like you, my old Canon has not been out of the bag in years now, even when using the Fuji!

I have to agree with Paul. A few slices of leftover cold pizza, is much better. Most of the grease has been absorbed by the cardboard by then!

"Stink Eye", I like that one! Something new! Just give 'um the #1 sign with about the third finger, maybe the fourth! They don't know what to think about that anyway, and once they figure out you are just as stupid as them, they don't mess with you, much! Just be fair and consistant!

Zipster, you forgot the beer drinking part! It's all in the TRAINING program!

Dropped by the Camelback site today. They are offering a electrolite supplement pill you just drop into your Camelback! Sounds like a good idea, I need to check the local bike shop to see if they have them. Never have really liked Gatoraid, but the Propel water by them is pretty good! You just have to drink like a fish in the heat!

Another thriller! To the very end! Looke like the LAST section was the decider! OUCH! Cody even fell off the pace today. The guys are BRUTAL! I wonder if that kid Andrew is getting tired, yet?

Try getting a water bottle and stick in your trousers or whatever, do a few good 4th gear stops then pull out the water and douse it. Do it a couple times and ride off. It seem to be when thay start the annoying squealing they are at their best! If they ain't squealing, they ain't working! You got the "PoP", good going! They just keep getting bigger!

Just got home, WOW! Now that's some tight scores! Chris is really doing well, I knew he would. He deserves to ride a MONTESA next year!

What's Up!

How did I know a story like that was coming up Al ? Brian is already making fun because I cannot manage to pee on a tree, no less hit a Sherco radiator! I still like it though!

Just, That is a good point about the tank breather! Can be critical! I have a little blue one too!, Not sure where it came from, as I actually found it in the loop track, buried into the mud a couple years back, good cleaning and still works good! Transferred from bike to bike! Not sure the setup on the factory installed Keihin, but the add on ones only had a bowl vent tube drilled out on the right side and the tube was the first thing to get pinched off against the muff. Clearance is minimal with no "L" fitting facing down. Ambient bowl pressure is critical and these things have to be able to breath, or you cannot reliably suck fuel upstream in the jets. Drilling out the left side vent fixed that, but still used a short hose pointed down to prevent dirt and water entry. The hoses must be short or otherwise fuel trapped in the hose(much like a bubble) can trap air and once again cause a negative pressure differential which causes funny things to happen. A straight open hole will tend to accumulate dirt which may get sucked in, and allows easy water entry to the bowl. M2C

As we here in TX have come around once again to Summer, with high temps and sometimes even higher humidity levels, we generally take a break from riding, with only one mid summer event done over two days PM/AM to avoid the killer heat. As I recall, it was still near 105 F. last year at the start of the PM Sat. trial! Made me think of the US Nationals going on over the mid year. I know those guys are not dumb, as you just Do Not Do a round in the hottest regions in mid summer. This stuff can kill you! Comments were made about the TN rounds and the temps! And depending upon the weather, OH can get really hot! Many are still extreme! All things considered, does this give an advantage to the riders from warmer climates? Smage is snowed in for a good part of the year. I know some that live in areas that can be snowed in for up to six months! Many will make trips south during the winter just to get out and ride a bit, but this is not true heat conditioning. For this, you pretty much need to stay for months in whe warm periods! If that is true, riders such as Florin and Ibson, even Webb from a moderate area may have an advantage. This is not a small issue because it literally effects your ability to think straight under heat stress, and precautions must be taken to insure worse things do not happen. Many times there is not even the slightest breeze in the woods, and it is hard to keep moving fast in a trial, even between sections sometimes. I have ridden many trials where I may take in 72oz of water from the camelback over a 3-4 hour period, and never pee! It all gets sweated out! That is not good, as you should keep up your intake so you at least pee! And is has also been said that if you wait untill you are thirsty, it is too late, as you cannot catch up! Then there is the thing about your electrolites getting depleted, which Gatoraid and others promote their rejuvination products. Basically you sweat out all your Salt, in a hurry! I would prefer to pee, I like it! I think it is good for trees and such, but sometimes it seems you just cannot keep yourself fit to do it! I should add that as you get older, things do not become any easier! Thoughts from our resident trainers appreciated! (Billycraig?)

Since it seems there has been no response on this topic, I will give you m2c. Not neccessary nor would I expect it to be signifigantly better than a proper 50/50 mix of ethyline glygol based(green) antifreeze and distilled water from your auto parts store. Stay away from the long life(HOAT orange) 5yr coolants in the bike! The corrosion inhibitors in the normal stuff are rated at three years service life. Half of that is much more reasonable, as you do not want things to corrode in the cooling system. Intermittant use is another issue. I normally change it on an annual basis during maintenance, as it is a simple drain and fill. On the other hand, I doubt there is anything wrong with some of the specialty fluids out there, such as "water wetter", and it is sold in small quantities(quart or 1000ml bottles which is convenient). In a pinch, any liquid that will get you back to camp will work(beer, wine, creek water), just flush it out when you get back! Al B. know more about the science of this than I do. But you would need to hear his side!

Yea, just waiting for response!

I have to admit using the knee/shin guards too! Help in this situation, currently use the Answer Products youth style(small in size and good for trials). I never plan to fall, and do not fall often, but some of the stuff we ride, like the granite, is just brutal if you take a knee(or elbow) dab! Creek rocks can be the same way. It will shread you like a grinder.(Wish I had a pic of the divot it took out of the steel frame)! They have saved me a knee cap or two over time! But regardless of the M/C setup, you still have nice lever perches to implant themsesves into your vernerable spots without protection. I had a major bruise in the shin after the little flip dismount from the 4T Beta, and that through the front of the Gaerne boot and everything, took two months to fade!

Depends upon a number of things, but if you truely are new to trials, then you are fine starting in Novice, without worrying about "sandbagging". The other novices you rode against, may simply be really inexperienced Novices! Many guys just can't bring themself to start off in the "Rookie" class, so they ride Novice before they have developed skills.Plus, one event may not be a good example of what the Novice sections will always be like. At your next event, they may be much harder. It depends upon the trialsmaster. For example, in our Texas State Series, we have four different clubs, scattered across the state, that each host two rounds in the series. The terrain varies widely, as you move across the state, and the trialsmasters at each event vary, as well. In other words, one event shouldn't drive your decision. Ride a few more, and get comfortable with what to expect. Words of a "pro' at sandbagging the amatures! Just ride a few novice events untill you get bored! Remember you are trying to clean it, not trying for 20! I have seen easy trials where the spread between 1st and 10th was no more than a handfull of points! Consistancy is key!

Baldi, Not quite sure how to answer that one. Only time I have that problem is when going over the bars! Are your bars back too far? Are your knees together in the turns?

What happened to the weigh-in? Did someone forget the scales?

Good showing for all! Tough trial, you know it when Bruce has 99 on his home turf! Will has learned how to hang in there quick!

Now THATS funny! I don't care who you are, thats funny!

omg, ANOTHER Big Finish !

No, you need to be at advanced level with some solid riding skills.

Must be Ryan! What about the official bike weights?

I was told that I was here because of a malfunctioning condom of the same era! Any others? No rust but a bit hard to start! And no flip top!