copemech

Wonder what jets came stock whth the Kiehin? The set for the aftermarket ones is 45/125, which seems to work well. Took a couple piccies, first to show that the kill switch WILL go on the res side of the clutch m/c. Wonder if the loom for the mode switch could be combined with it?

Wonder just how much effect the "bipolar" switch has?

That is an interisting way to do it Jay. I guess that is an old Yam? As a side note, I have noticed that, at least on the Sherco, there is a degree or two built into the triple clamps! Which also makes me wonder if the factory riders can change this to suit? Easier than changing frames!

Pure Sex! I don't care how many colours are on the stickers!

Good bike, still very competive if it is in good condition.

Send piccies before you scratch it!

Now I think about it, I don't think I even used the heat gun, but rather the hairdrier! Took a while to get hot which allowed the heat to spread. I was being cautious and just kept applying pressure while rubbing back and forth with the ball end of a craftsman screwdriver untill I got some movement. Then the material stayed a bit soft for a while by the retained heat. I did not need much. I have never seen one hit in the shock area though. Mounting the box and stress relieving the mounting tab areas may help too. Getting a good fit to the muffler.

I hope we see some Central Regional dates before too long, doubt we'll know anything untill then! I'll bet you a case of beer you don't win the 40 class, how bout that!

Proper tougue action and lips in the first one! Looks like champ material!

If it fits? At this late date, try Lewisport! If you can reach Adrian's cell he may well know for sure! You should have called RYP when you had a chance! I know the rear master is smaller bore on the later models!

Great write up! I hope Patrick gets some quality practice time with Caby and the boys while he is there! The kids are amazingly good! Last I heard, David Chaves was going to be the Team Driver for the Sherco rig! Always helpful and a good interpriter with the Spanish bunch! Should be a great experience for them! No contribution is too small! You can send through RYP too! Just call them at 800-607-8742 for ALL US supporters! Brad and Ryan have a fund set up already as I understand, and you can use a CC if necc. and/or get a Video too! I also heard that Pat was still in 5th place in the world standings, even aftre missing the French round!

Hugo, Not sure where you are located, but I have not found anyone to rebuild the Olle or Sachs shocke here. The TRP shock from Jitsie look like a good alternative and is adjustable. Lewisport USA is advertising shock work and Ohlins now, so an e-mail to Adrian might be in order.

I'm not really sure the composition, but I was surprised that I really did not have to get it all that hot. Before the material gave any signs, I was able to work an area using the ball end of a screwdriver to gently work it to properly accomodate the rear frame tube on the later model, which straightened the box right up! Helps with the rear mudguard fit too as the box stays close to the frame! Be careful!

It is obvious you Okies only weigh in every five years or so, cause you hav'nt seen 215 for a while! Maybe while you are prancing around in your undies in front of the mirror in the bedroom, but not in full trials gear! And I'm talking about the honky tonk in Langly! Great place! They have karioke and everything! I think Ryan might be ready to do a bit of riding by then. He needs to schedule things I'm sure, but I need to get on him! He is a "Knappy Headed Trials Ho"! Gee, can you say that on here? That big purse looks GOOD! Na, I'll just bet him $20 he won't show up to ride, that should just about do it!

If it is just the WD40, have a water bottle ready, do a couple of good stops from 4thor 5th gear, and immidiatly douse the rotor. It will steam clean it. (should be hot enough to steam) You may need to perform this two or three times depending upon how much oil, but should work.

Use a heat gun to make adjustments for a good fit!

Sounds as though you are right on track. If you just put in the measured quantity you should be fine, but ck it! Quite honestly, I did not have the '06 long enough to worry about it, and the '07 is not due quite yet, as I like the stock oil and run it as long as I can, as I do not ride every day. One or two trials a month is more the norm around here, a few two days, add a bit of practice mostly in the back of the yard! Wot's it like for you? We'll break for the summer, with 100f temps!

You gotta be kidding! At 175lbs I cannot hold on to your 240lb ass and that Beta! It would liik like that pic of the WTC guys, BAD! You gotta get in line anyway, I still have to get Ryan to ride Oktobertest without making up some silly excuse about his ankle hurt's or something! Getting Harker to the local redneck Disco bar will be another story!

I know there is a lot of different oil out there, some better than others. The full synthetics and some semi- synthetics have less hard carbon build up which will clog things up. The US Sherco team has run the Maxima K2 for years without problem at 80:1 in the Pro bikes, and on 93 pump gas. MTL 75 in the box, also Maxima, for a good clutch action. Lots of working history there! I have also run the Yamalube 2R without problem, usually inexpensive and redily available at any Yamaha shop worldwide I suppose! It is acclaimed by Yamaha and made by Torco in the US, works for MX and roadraces alike. 10-40 is the gearbox spec. and I can tell you that for the most part any good motor oil works in a pinch, pref. synthetic. ATF will thin it and make the clutch a bit quicker and grabby, but it seems to have no ill effects. So it is up to you. The blue Maxima waterproof grease seems to work very well on the suspension links and wheel bearings, which BTW you will want to do soon, as well as the rear brake pedal bearing. Just overpack them to keep water out. It may be silly, but on a new bike, I pull the wheels to remove the tires and add 1 drop of light oil to each spoke thread from the inside, coat with a dab of silecon paste to help keep out water, and reassemble. No rusted nipples! Takes a lot of beer to set up a new one! Remove lighting, add kill switch, grips and bar ends, lever perches wrapped with teflon tape and set the correct distance! All personal tweaks if nothing else! Every bolt you can anti-sieze may save you later on! Typical stuff on most, if you prep it right, fewer problems creep up! A Sherco is also the easiest bike to work on and maintain! Cheers, MC

I see you found the spec on the RYP site. I would venture to say that those are "dry" specs, as if you had them apart. The distance measurement may be more accurate, specially on a drain and fill, as there may be a signifigant amount of residual oil! So befor dumping it all in, you might want to put 20-30ml less and adjust to height. Idemitsu 0 J RACING TYPE 01 ! 3.472 vis! Yea right! I have a mix of PJ1 and some English Ale(i could not drink) that is just about right! Otherwise, we just run the Maxima 5wt!

Right 370ml Left 385ml

The material is very hard and brittle, heating will anneal and soften it, plus you have to have a lathe or something to true it with a BFH! See if Lewisport has one of them fancy wave rotors, and use it for a frisbee! You will look better and the women will flock to you!

Yea, I like that idea! Just tell Jr I need a 4T minder bike to keep for a few months to tot around all the spare parts that kid needs! I can see it now! C'mon you little skinny sh$#, you better get your ass up this big friggin rock cus I ain't goin downthar to get your sorry butt! And if you hit me I'm throwing you back down this thing, so do it right! And quit mumbling in that pidgion english kid! Grow some GONADS! GOMG! Sounds like Duke!

Not sure about 2K model, but '01 had a real low first gear, '02 real high, and '03up just about right. But as you stated, you might come up short on a substantial obsticle. Hooking up in the revs with a blip of throttle will put you on your backside before you even know what happened!

Beam me up, Scotty!