copemech

This is correct, no difference on a modern bike, prolly M5 thread.

I stumbled across this article re:Junior Burchinal’s school in Paris, Texas. A bit dated, yet this fellow was the first to give me the bug and take me flying as a kid. We did the little Cessnas though, I even recall my grama's going up with us once in a 172/182? Her first flight of her life. He lived the life! Good read for future pilots! http://www.airbum.com/pireps/PirepMustangBurch.html

Looking good Leo! Hope you managed to get some oil and nitrogen back in that shock!

Splatshop do them!!!

I will tell you that what you really need to do is leave the gearing alone and learn how to ride the bike. A 9 front is too low and makes first gear useless. A 42 rear is a halfway option that works if needed, but?. Concentrate on clutch control and you will be better off. Force yourself to ride in a higher gear, mostly second on slower sections or even third. You are forced to use the clutch and apply power properly reguardless of revs and feel for traction.

Try a dealer!

Well you have it working at least. Understand the thermostat as you call it is nothing but a bi-metal electrical switch that kicks in if coolant temp rises above a given point, activating the fan. It does not control coolant flow, as if the pump is pumping the coolant flows continuously and if you are moving fast enough to provide airflow through the rad the fan may never come on on a cool day. Lower speeds or sitting still the fans will kick in normally in 5-10 min after startup, yet a 125-200 bike will take a bit longer as I recall. Simply not producing as many BTU.

I thing the 80 would be a good estimate for normal road running at sustained high rpm. Pity you will likely never achieve that on a trials bike! Same reason they tell you to use twice the oil you need in the mix!

The rectifier should be square box mounted by the CDI as I recall, the regulator is rectangular. if memory serves. Link to site with pics. http://www.shercousa.com/pdfs/ryp_wiring_installation.pdf Fan should blow air rearward. Seems they call out the rectifier as a DIODE in the assy. Actually it is a diode assembly which shunts the bad AC vibes to earth and leaves the positive DC pulses of the waveform created my the magneto. The regulator just simply t's in as well shunting off excess voltage to earth. Simples! I suppose a shorted regulator could reduce available voltage as well, causing a fan not to run properly. As these bits must work together to supply proper voltage and current to the 12V DC fan motor.

Very similar with some a bit thinner material, none of the palm padding and such, for a good grip, snug fit, and tactile feedback, like riding naked! RYP had some good house brand ones that were inexpensive although I have not looked lately. Good grips help, I like the medium density Renthols.

You should normally be able to connect the yellow and red wires at the thermo switch together for the fan to run. If it still does not run then you have other issues. 12V source is yellow, red goes to rectifier to achieve the DC voltage the fan motor requires from the AC source. Fan will not run if rectifier is faulty.

This stuff is like medicine, and sometimes I need a dose! How the hell did we get here? For those who would be in need of a history lesson, this sums it pretty well, jeez it is 40 years on now!

Uh, why could you not turn them 90 degrees to find out if it made a difference in the wear pattern, just saying?

froh, dass du zurück bist mein Schatz, lange Zeit kein Chat! Mein Jesus, I hope google translate works! Or she may kill me!

or it's still on '02 jets with alcohol induced fuel, just a thought.

Good bike I think, solid, smooth power and reliable with their own issues as lineaway states, yet I could go on one any day.

What I understand is the little Grumman Yankee 2 seater is pretty much a POS and the larger Tigre is a pretty good rig! We had a Yankee sit on our ramp and rot for twenty years!

Probably recommended to get the steering angle back where it needs to be, as the more the rear sags the more the fork angle rakes out like a chopper! Not the best on sharp corners! "12 2.9 would have the Olle R16V shock and I think I seen where Splatshop had a heavy spring for them. Email Chris at sales@splatshop.co.uk and pick his b-r-a-n-e!

Cool ride man! Not a bad looking 172, but he needs to get the stripes back on it! That yellow thang is another topic!

Point being it may be just the plug. Now that you have provided more info! Now if they kept on fouling prematurely, unusual smokiness persisted, bike is more than 2-3 years on, I may be more concerned about crank seals, yet there may usually be other symptoms such as unexplained floaty idle even with a perfectly clean carb. See how it goes! I dump a plug in a heartbeat at the first sign of hard starts or rough running or anything else!

I would have a 163 kit mesel. Any larger and you gotta bore the engine cases as I recall.

Back to my question then!

Are you sure it's the bike!

Not surprising, as they will launch an attack from a site and use children as human shields. Typical!

GOOD LUCK FINDING A HEAVY SPRING FOR THAT SHOCK, as there were few around even ten years ago. I cannot recall if that is an Olle or Sachs shock on that year. At your given weight a +20% spring would be what I would suggest. And the things can be special made for a price, yet one must stay within clearances that will fit the bike and the wire diameter, ID and OD are considerations as length is limited and too much preload a no-no. A new shock from something like Ohlins is not cheap, and even then spring selection is limited, figure $600 + with the upside being they can be modded and overhauled to fit later bikes for a price. Right not I might suggest you take your static sag to zero(weight of bike on wheels) on rear and consider going to 7.5 wt in the forks, being sure your air caps are sealing well with fresh US(non metric) thicker O-rings and possibly add 10ml or so to the standard 330 ml to reduce headspace. My thoughts, Just ride it! MC