copemech

I know nothing about these bikes, but it would seem to me the controller is monitoring motor current(load) and you have exceeded the limit due to the effective gear ratio change of the larger wheels. Good thing it is not set to reverse like a power door or window on obstacle detection!

Yea, well, if only cold no big deal.

Just wait till you gotta go poo! Ha!

Likely fairly normal as with clutch lever out you are still driving the rest even in neutral and the crank power pulses tend to rattle the primary gears and the gearbox due to backlash. Will worsen with hot thin oil or ATF.

Not riding, but I have broken one. Hurts a lot, every move! Requires beer!

Yea, well you may get by with that on a Mont, but one word of caution as anti-sieze can migrate and short a plug! So carefull with the useage.! On a 2T the threads are lubed by normal operation in most cases, and the best thing I can take on the trial is an adjustable spanner when/ if I need it, so better get a grip on things!

If I had money! That JTG looks the Sh!!!T! I am surprised more Gasser riders have not converted, looks the ultimate Gasser to me!

I am still not sure which Okie you be, but you are pretty good! I been telling folks that for a while! Troy, perhaps?

Obviously these things do encounter wear, and dirt and such, and sometimes a fresh piston will help, but TBH, the fitment is soo critical that only a fresh replate of the cylinder will fix things. If I were going to attempt to quiet one down, I would do a teardown and inspect of the bore, reject for any imperfections. If none found, may try a new piston in upsize (B as compared to A) at .01mm difference, and with new rings. You should know soon if things settle, and if not, just send the barrel off with the new piston for a match and replate so things are good.

There are a few good lads around there to help you. Do let us know if you need contact info.

They are supposed to be good boots for the money I think. Hopefully the break in OK for your feet!

Try a stator!

Ryan Young Products(Scorpa US) The Tryals Shop Both good sources in the US.

A lot of spark plugs have a crushable gasket ring which allows a lot of sloppyness in tightening. The basic procedure is to finger-tighten, then about 3/4 of a turn more to crush the gasket. You can feel it happening, as there will be a constant force pushing back, until the crush zone is all crushed, then it will be much harder to turn. Don't go far into the "hard to turn" zone-- most cylinder heads are aluminum and you can strip out the threads if you really horse down on it. Also this only applies to the FIRST TIME you put in a fresh plug! On subsequent times there will be less crush-zone left, or even none, so you have to be more careful, you may notice only a quarter-turn or less of easy-going before it becomes hard to turn.

I think I pu;;ed a nut just watching tha!

Not sure about the parts cost, but I would guess you are spending 300 of your quid things! And add insult to injury, if the conrod is loose as you say, just do the mains and seals as well, Fact is, just send it off and let Gasser UK of someone do it if you are not set up. Saves a lot of grief. So up that to 500!

Conrod kit will have rod, bearing and pin. Then find you a shop to press the crank and true it.

Other than a few reported issues with setting of the float levels, I cannot recall sig. reports of issues such as yours. There may be a possibility the float is hanging up in the overflow tube that extends up into the bowl. Such radical changes in float height are generally not needed. I pull the overflow tube and BB it off on a K style carb, myself. Splat Chris has some suggestions of that on his website, yet all personal pref. I say all this while still using the Dellorto on my 250, which just works it seems. Nothing special, not as great o power or all that, just works. Call Chris and debate it! He gives sound advise and better experience.

Weeelie!!!!!!!!!!!!

Luckaz, To be honest, we have no idea your level or ability, just how extreme downhills you are referring to. There are limits it seems on any carb or bike, yet in my opinion the K carb is more susceptible as compared to say a stock Dellorto. Splat Chris would be the uppel level rider with better answers, yet I can tell you from many bikes past, I had to anticipate a fuel surge on big downhills and clean out as necessary. MC

Well, seals are cheap, and it is not too much work, so you should survive! I spent a bit more for the Viton seals from Splatshop so not to worry in the future no matter the fuel I had to use. Seals Are different between the big bike and 125 as well, just FYI

Refurb should normally be just fine and not worth the extra for a new one. Splatshop keeps some exchange units on hand so worth a call.

http://www.shercousa.com/?action=6

Seen Smage will go this year to TDN. That is good, although I doubt they will run the top class. Should ghiv a good run in the inters or what ever they are called.

I think there are several things to consider on bikes. Firstly, on a Sherco, the alcohol does seem to take advantage of the permeability of the nylon tank and make it expand to possibly a unusable size. I have seen mine grow to near 10mm on length, not sure the girth, but a tight fit! Seen it return to normal as well, using the real gas. The car gas in US, rated by R+M/2 method being around 93 for premium would still be near the euro method using a single rating of 98 octane(knock resistance) It will run and work fine in the motor, if kept fresh, as it does not store well and the alcohol is hygroscopic up to its absorption capacity, which can vary and result in water fallout. The high aeromatics in car gas go off rather quickly it seems, and as example, my Yam will not even start if left set for two weeks with fuel in the bowl. 100LL seems to store well for months on end with no issues. I have found it can cause some problems here in high temp environment as it does not like hot restarts(vaporlock) as the stuff is blended to work better in cooler environment at altitude, this is understandable. As far as power goes, a quicker burning fuel(lower octane) may well develop more power in a motor not designed for the high octane fuel, blessing or curse, as smoother power has its advantage as well? Not a lot of difference really, possibly some.