lemur

That's why you still have a thermostat switch on there, the bypass switch is wired in parallel to the thermostat switch not in series. op Diodes can't take heat, it's the rectifier/regulator that will fry first, followed by the coils, followed by the fan motor that makes its own cooling

Must be why I never had to replace a fan, I clean most parts like that with a toothbrush and some spray cleaner 😎 op. When you run a generator and plug in a toaster you can hear the engine work way harder to make more electricity, bike alternator is identical, making electric power takes energy, making more power all the time needs more energy and making energy produces heat which is damaging to electrics. It's not fuel injected so the Fan motor is the highest power draw on your bike, it would be normal for it to draw down on the idle speed some when the fan kicks in, I added a toggle on my 315 Cota to deal with that exact issue, idle dropped noticeably when the fan kicked on.

Can't understand why anyone would permanently bypass a thermostat switch with anything other then a switch 🤔 they saved a whole 4 bucks on a switch and I imagine those same dealers have no problem selling additional replacement stator coils, rectifier/regulators and replacement fan motors as a result of that downgrade.

Can only think of two reasons to do that, they didn't want the engine idle speed to change when the fan kicks on or the thermostat went faulty. The better way to fix it is to install a working thermostat and put a bypass toggle switch on it to manually control the fan. I guess the question is does your engine speed change if the fan is connected and disconnected, if idle speed does change significantly that relates to the power load increase on the alternator.

Carburetor can't work great if the bottom end seals are not great. I'd be inspecting the bottom end seals for signs of leakage on any 2-stroke engine that has constantly changing carburetor type issues. ... when it runs does it fire with a nice clear compression pop-pop-pop or does it have a ring-ying-ying engine sound ?

Once you rule out everything else, it will end up being the need to adjust the valve clearances very carefully and accurately. Same thing happened with four out of four 4RT's that I rode from 2005 to 2020 they just didn't want to start one day and a valve clearance adjustment fixed every one of them. Owned two of them at a time which made trouble-shooting simple.

Better watch out it makes me feel invincible 😆

👍 Vest arrived, first impressions are it comes very lightly padded and some spots are not protected at all but it is Way more comfortable to wear compared to the flat board back protector I wore before. I like it 👍 Might add a tensor bandage for the 2-day trial this weekend but I think I'm good to go, if it gets too serious I can just drop down a line and ride as clubman.

Did that about 50 years ago but it was to prevent additional damage to the engine covers in the event of another fall.

They all stall if the idle is set too low. Personally I like to buy them in pairs, makes trouble-shooting service much easier and you are never down because something busted and needs to be ordered before you can ride.

It says 'Ride to the next level' right on the TRS saddle 👍 must be so 😄 Personally I find Beta 2T and TRS both exhibit more lively suspension compared to Montesa which rides very planted and the 4T engines don't like to be blipped, they respond to smooth throttle and clutch control is where you get the leap. Kickstart on the wrong side makes Beta 2T a problem for me, so TRS is what I ride now. The TRS 300 is a blast to ride spirited, even has electric start, the Montesa 4RT 300 is the absolute best bike for winter riding on studded tires because of the engines power band and that planted suspension. Beta castings and plastics imo have never been up to par with the Honda or TRS materials. add: I just read an add saying Beta is doing a major rear suspension change on the latest model, but imo that could complicate parts replacement.

I'm just coming off yet another episode of busted ribs and finally ordered a chest protector that has yet to arrive, recommend you consider the same, ribs hurt more then most things and most of my bad get offs has been bar ends or foot peg into the chest and mid abdomen 😐 your crash damage may vary.

Easy bike to work on, no real surprises, rear suspension linkage is vulnerable to damage and once water gets to the needle bearings they rust quickly. If you don't know the history of the wheel bearings I would replace them, bearings can be had from almost any bearing supply store and good wheel bearings make a huge difference in the efficiency of your brakes. If performance is not great check the reed valves very carefully to make sure they close light tight. The exhaust packing is prone to clog with oil if you use some oil brands at their recommended ratio. Service the front forks lots, keep good slide bushings in them and change the oil frequently and ride it lots 👍

I had one of them, loved it. Sturdy frame, good performer, tough plastics, some current model parts will fit right onto it, they respond well to race fuel. Can't say I would want to be sourcing new parts if it needs anything significant, but that really depends on what part of the world you live in 😎

Super easy, search for "TRS motorcycle wiring diagram" and it will be the first image that shows. ... if the headlight is having low power issues the fan should be having problems as well.

That's because your roughly 1000$ to replace fuel pump did not burn out.

That's a strange one, I looked at the wiring diagrams and can't see anything that would account for that unless the tail light wires are shorting out or you have a bad ground back to the engine.

Is it a Light Emitting Diode or incandescent lamp and guessing it has no battery? If it's LED what does your bike have for rectifying the AC produced by the alternator to DC required by a LED? ... + does the fan work as expected? (the fan also operates on DC)

Oil in the coolant means you would also see coolant in the oil and that would almost certainly be the water pump seal. Just a hunch the part number also relates to the dimensions 12.30.7 oil seal

FWIW Montesa from 315R on uses 2 different types of friction materials in their friction plates, a mix of paper and cork apparently alter the friction point. I bought a full set of new plates in 2001 and they are still in the spares box, never managed to kill a clutch. My understanding was that the paper material grabs faster because it takes on less oil then the cork.

Does your fan blow or suck air through the rad ? It's a DC motor so if it spins the wrong direction you have the polarity reversed.

~12 volts D.C. after the regulator ~20 volts A.C. output from the stator

Vinegar Magnesium is highly reactive to it, aluminum is not.

Ordered a Troy Lee 3900 Ultra Armored Top, looks like it covers all the important places. 👍 Thank-you for the well wishes Reggie 😎

You look at the pictures of the special tool Beta would sell to do the job and improvise something that works the same way.