lemur

Found this on ossa-efi re the fuel level sensor: "The sensor is used to illuminate an optional warning light when less than 3/4 liter of fuel remains." "The complete circuit is just the thermistor, an incandescent light bulb, and 12-volt power all connected in series. " If that is true all the fuel level sensor does is turn on a warning light.

Superglue aka crazy aka cyanoacrylate is great to attach 2 perfectly mating surfaces, it can work to seal a tire slash or glue your fingers together, it is useless for filling holes in a steel stanchion tube and you can't form or shape it after it dries. Even 'hard as nails' nail polish can help to fill holes, but anything short of new steel parts will eventually fail plus damage the seals and slide bushings resulting in additional expense.

No matter it is just an anti-rattle clip like on any disc brake and if you study it close the spring clip only looks non-symmetrical. ... only reason you questioned it is because it assembles either way.

The dent is in the stanchion tube? Pictures if you can might help. If the dent is anywhere the fork seal slides over it is a problem and the best fix with stanchion tubes is always replacement. Almost certainly Showa since Honda owns a big part of it. Easy to service once you've seen how, always messy be ready for that, clean everything just like you would clean a gun. Inspect slider bushings for wear on the nylon coatings, the slider bushings are a common item for replacement in order to keep fork seals good. Buy the better name brand fork seals not the super cheap ones, they aren't the same take photos during dismantle so you put everything together the correct way and iff in doubt refer to the parts manual drawings.

The shift forks, shaft they slide on and the little part that follows in the groves on the shift drum would be my prime suspect. Hard to tell much without hands on or having worked the shifter before it was dismantled. Logically one small rough spot would not make it rough shift in all the gears, it would only affect the shifts when the shift forks hit that rough spot.

Shorty lever moved way in on the bars gives you greater leverage and friction zone range. Also makes it impossible to jam your fingers behind the levers. Highly recommended setup to make the lever pull lighter.

Roller bearings should not feel notchy or they have been compromised.

Logic I apply is that the shifter forks are the softest and most malleable parts in the transmission. ... and because I experienced the problem first hand on my 360VA

Check the shift forks for slight bends or wear on the tips or binding on the shaft.

Don't be making announcements about CMA national events before they have even been applied for, it don't work that way and when you do state the date and venue, TBA is useless information. I'm one of the 3 Daves and if you rode CMA sanctioned trials in Ontario you would know who we are, we are the ones that build, host, and clean up the events, that's what you need to know, it's a club when 2 or more of us get together. You don't schedule national events around lesser events you schedule local club events around the nationals. The formula is fairly simple, you need to schedule national events on dates when school is not in session and when the venue can provide a successful event, such as not during black fly season. If you want decent attendance you need to make it a 2 day event and announce it far enough in advance that people can schedule holiday and travel plans. The biggest task for hosting a national observed trial event is getting observers, fix that problem and you will be a trials community hero👍

A little bit of inertia is a wonderful thing.

@michael_t It does not work that way. A sanctioned club needs to be affiliated before the event hosts submit application to hold national competition events. CMA responds to applications they don't build events in Ontario or anywhere else, land owners and club members do that. In my considerable experience hosting CMA nationals over the decades I have never been rejected upon submitting a national trial event application. @michael_t you were aware of this May 1st. 2024 please do not interfere with our ability to host events.

Bring the puller up tight as you can and the give the puller a blow with a weighty hammer, let inertia do the work.

Use a torque wrench and locktite, Ti bolts don't like to be over-torqued 👍

Title says it all, buddy is trying to local source a 10mm x ~105 mm engine bolt because the original aluminum one broke. Note to owners, don't over-tighten & might want to stock a spare something that works, seems the alloy bolt has a prior history of failure.

That would be the correct way for the nut to tighten as a result of the engine firing, if the engine had to spin in the opposite direction it would need a reverse thread. If it had a reverse thread it would need something to positively stop (locking washer) the nut from loosening off in operation. Nobody puts a left hand thread on anything that does not absolutely require it, too expensive.

Not a very expensive part, If it has 3 wire connections, 2 of them will be AC input tabs, one will be a DC positive output tab and the mounting point will provide the chassis ground or DC negative.

Your engine outputs alternating current and the fan runs on direct current, the little black box connected to the fan will be a rectifier/regulator. Function is to convert the AC to DC and typically to limit the voltage so the fan can run on 12 volts DC Power output from the engine alternator is called 'dirty', voltage will be all over the place, job of the rectifier is to change AC to DC and the job of the regulator is to limit the peak voltage. Rectifier uses Diodes ( semiconductor that allows current to flow in one direction.) Regulator uses various transistor semiconductors to send excess voltage to ground and dissipate heat which is a byproduct of that process.

Could not make this one myself but the video makes it look like one very slick ride, lots of footage here for those with interest:

Lithium batteries don't perform well in cold climates which is one reason why they don't rate them in CCA cold cranking amps, the battery RC spec is under optimum test conditions.

Motor should not draw more then the 1200 watts or there is a problem. I have one of the smaller ones and that's what made me notice the 130 amps, amperage numbers like that is the battery reserve capacity. It's a value based on the time the battery can run before voltage drops to unusable (differs for lead acid or lithium) lithium holds voltage longer and then drops faster compared to a lead acid battery

Oset 20 motor spec is 1200 watts at 48 volts watts = amps x volts amps = watts / volts 1200/48 = 25 your 1200 watt Oset 20 motor draws a maximum 25 amps @ 48 volts

The only wiring schematic I could find does not show a red/yellow wire anywhere. Does your bike still have all stock electrics and breaker points ignition or has it been modified?

Found one. You don't happen to live in eastern Ontario do you, trials riding here tomorrow if you can join us. ... to machine a cota link you would require a billet measuring 30mm x 30mm x 102mm

Titanium is the ultimate if you need to ask the price you can't afford it material. Cota dogbone is a super simple design, you could sketch it out on a table napkin and if you can machine 2 holes with accuracy it will work.