lemur

You can rebuild the clutch master with all new parts for about 50 bucks once you identify the model.

It's hydraulic is it not? does it take DOT fluid or mineral oil and did you use the wrong thing or is the master cylinder just seizing from old DOT fluid corrosion? If it was tight at the slave end it would more likely jam on so I would say check the clutch master cylinder plus make sure it's not just tight at the lever pivot.

Half a litre of the transmission oil I use on all my 2-stroke and 4RT transmissions costs about 4 bucks. For about the last decade I have used Kubota branded All season hydraulic excavator oil ISO46 and buy it in a 19 litre pail, that's ~38 oil changes for about 150 (CDN$). For decades before this I used similar products from other farm tractor brand (NewHolland or JohnDeere) and I ride it in sub-zero winter temperatures too with no clutch or transmission issues ever! If you ever have a farm tractor apart you will see almost the same things inside it as a motorcycle. Motorcycles are not considered to be any harder on wet clutch and gear and shifter lubricant or require anything special compared to farm and industrial construction equipment. Except we don't log anywhere near the hours and those machines filter the oil. Your half litre of transmission oil is not filtered and degrades only through the introduction of water, clutch pad material and metal bits in the worst case. The best way to keep your oil good is to change it lots. Consider how much oil changes will cost you buying it at 2.5 times the price plus expensive special shipping for 1 litre and how often will you want to be changing it. Using a relatively cheap and local available lubricant will end up being way better.

It's just gear oil and the chances of it being anything more than a Netherlands company repackaging a product under their name brand is slim to nil. IMO you are going out of your way to pay way more money for something you can buy cheaper and local. The best transmission oil for your 2-stroke engine is the oil you can replace more frequently. If it was truly special it will have a military spec number and that can be used to identify alternative lubricants with the same properties.

I did read your posts 👍 getting as much air off the cinderblock and recovering with complete control is the same motion as the zap, throttle and clutch actions are the same, you are trying to learn the bikes suspension, power and most important control over the bikes attitude in all dimensions in combination with your movements on the bike. If Enduro riding is checkers MotoTrials is chess 😎

The way to become a better rider is to ride with better riders, can't stress that enough. Cement block on level ground and try to get as much air off it as possible, but land it with control so you can add a full lock turn figure 8 over the block 👍 try it you'll like it.

If you want to improve your enduro skills learn to ride your Trials bike on Trials terrain and work on techniques, don't just ride it like a light weight Enduro bike or you won't get much out of it and you will quickly give it up, we see that a lot around here, only a small percentage of Enduro riders buy a trials bike and an even smaller percentage make the effort to ride it like a Trials bike. Seeking out riding partners that you can learn from is key 👍

I do the exact opposite; empty the reservoir of old fluid, fully retract the pads to force as much fluid out of the calliper as possible and use a great big plastic syringe to force fresh DOT fluid in through the bleed screw, clean up and discard any old fluid that get pushed up into the reservoir, then top up the reservoir with fresh fluid. Done correctly you won't be introducing any air into the system at all and bleeding might not even be required.

As a TRS rider my take on riding the Evo is 'too heavy' in the front end, different strokes for different folks and the last time I heard of a trials motorcycle being 'too light' was never. Rosscorob buy the motorcycle that appeals to you the most and learn it inside out, if the Beta you are looking at features all new plastics installed, now you know why. edit: 48.7 pounds, that's how much a TRS300RRw/electric start weighs if you sneak a bathroom scale out to the garage and stick it under the front wheel is that too light?

Brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs water from the atmosphere) the brake master cylinder needs to be vented to atmospheric pressure. The rubber bladder separates the brake fluid from the water. If it was wet on top when you opened it, that is water and it's working.

So why did Beta not put large washers on them? ... give it up, Beta plastics were designed to break easy, that's a fact not a myth. There are recommended modifications you can do to the rear fender to slightly mitigate some destruction near the airbox lid and the best fix for the front fender is to replace it with the front fender off a bike that has a metal mount bracket like most other brands.

If water gets into the suspension linkage needle bearings on any of them they quickly rust, the part that showed the most wear on mine today was the drawn cup part of the needle bearing which is pressed into the linkage castings, they were destroyed, the inside bearing surfaces also showed signs of wear. Other brands would have similar issues given the amount of riding I do on my bikes and conditions. Montesa linkage is more subject to impact damage then the TRS linkage, Beta is also more robust but my riding partners Beta needs the linkage rebuilt right now, figure on every 3 or 4 years needing to drop about 300 or 400 bucks for linkage bearings and seals. None of them have grease fittings and they would last a lot longer if they did. Wheel bearings is another thing you need to keep on top of, any amount of play in the wheel bearing is too much and they should be replaced, figure on another 100 bucks every 2 or 3 years for those, most brands use the same bearings and you can buy those locally, get the expensive name brand ones.

I'm a senior citizen so I like the 300's 😎 stick it in third gear and just dial on the broad powerband. I'd buy another (300cc) Montesa or two in a heartbeat if the dealer support was here but Honda killed it.

If I was in the business of buying motorcycles to rent and keep running after everybody has been trashing them it would be Montesa 4RT, hard to break and easy to service if you are not intimidated by 4-stroke engines. Great bike in deep mud, for long uphill climbs and for winter riding if you don't let it get ice cold. TRS is the most exciting and fun trials bike I have ever ridden, my 2021 bike was built during covid shortages and I think I had every bad part they ever exported so you are safe. Beta evo factory is a near equal performing bike and has just as many strengths and shortcomings. Beta would wear me out starting it and that includes the Beta 4-stroke. You are shopping for used so you might end up with anything. Buy the one that starts easy, runs good and has no free-play in the chassis, wheels and suspension.

No they are all high maintenance if you want them to keep working good, I just finished the linkage rebuild, its a %^&h to do it right, you have to be handy with fixing stuff.

It's not easy to fit the air filter properly but I've never er had it fail. The drain hole in the bottom of the air box is prone to becoming blocked in very deep mud and you need to make sure that is cleaned every time you service the filter. I had the airbox one third full of mud and water once and the well oiled air filter still kept the carb intake clean. Chain tensioner spring is not great and some of the aftermarket springs don't even fit as well as the original, I've modified one to work with a regular linear coil spring and that works, you need the chain tensioner spring to work or the bike will not roll backwards, keep something in your spares to deal with that when it happens. Suspension linkage uses full complement needle bearings which require regular clean and grease service or you will be dropping lots of coin for replacement parts.

I have a pair of TRS 300 w/ electric start 👍 love them so much I bought 2. Front fender has a proper metal bracket fork brace and the rear fender is 2 piece. Kickstart is on the right side 👍 they start easy with full choke even in sub zero weather 😎 I stud one up for ice which is a blast and higly recommended if you have winter where you live. Suspension is very lively similar to the Beta. Spark plug you can buy at a local hardware store because it's the same as a chainsaw. I won't say parts are cheap but I think everything has become expensive. They like race fuel so operating cost is a little higher then say a Montesa which is happy to run on almost anything. Invest in a guard for the header if it does not already have one.

Gee, what happened to the original Beta fender lineaway 🤔 did it snap into pieces or just break off at the plastic mounting points?

Myth lol ... do you love those plastic front fender bracket braces that break at the inserts.

There are a lot of Beta riders around here and the bikes fair as well as any, the plastics historically get broken a lot and are expensive and that's why I mentioned it. Most brands have their strong points and weak points and they all break if they get trashed on the rocks. Dealer support depends on where you live and for me it makes a big difference to what I ride.

'wanting to get into trials' step one locate and associate with the local riders building amateur competition events, volunteer to help set out sections when they are preparing their next event, take your bike because it may include some riding. There are only 2 places you can typically ride gas powered trials bikes without issue: private lands and closed course competitions (which might be anywhere)

Terrific bike if the plastic fenders don't break and you can handle starting a bike with the kickstart on the left side.

Easy enough to test it with the cir-clip in a different slot. Also try running the bike while it is on a fairly steep nose down angle, or steep uphill and see if that changes the carburetors operation, if it does then you need to clean the emulsion tube or adjust the float level. Sparkplug read is a better way to know if it is running rich or lean compared to how often the fan kicks on.

... and the idle adjuster screw does nothing? Most likely cause; you have a round carb slide inserted 180 degrees from where it should be, a pin goes into a slot in the side of the carb slide and on the other side is a ramp where the idle screw pushes against.

Stators can be meter tested, spark timing can be checked with a strobe, but nothing beats a second identical model motorcycle to swap parts out until the problem goes to the other bike, particularly when the part being tested is the ignition control module. The ability to self service your own rides is motivation to own 2 trials bikes of the same model.