lemur

No they are all high maintenance if you want them to keep working good, I just finished the linkage rebuild, its a %^&h to do it right, you have to be handy with fixing stuff.

It's not easy to fit the air filter properly but I've never er had it fail. The drain hole in the bottom of the air box is prone to becoming blocked in very deep mud and you need to make sure that is cleaned every time you service the filter. I had the airbox one third full of mud and water once and the well oiled air filter still kept the carb intake clean. Chain tensioner spring is not great and some of the aftermarket springs don't even fit as well as the original, I've modified one to work with a regular linear coil spring and that works, you need the chain tensioner spring to work or the bike will not roll backwards, keep something in your spares to deal with that when it happens. Suspension linkage uses full complement needle bearings which require regular clean and grease service or you will be dropping lots of coin for replacement parts.

I have a pair of TRS 300 w/ electric start 👍 love them so much I bought 2. Front fender has a proper metal bracket fork brace and the rear fender is 2 piece. Kickstart is on the right side 👍 they start easy with full choke even in sub zero weather 😎 I stud one up for ice which is a blast and higly recommended if you have winter where you live. Suspension is very lively similar to the Beta. Spark plug you can buy at a local hardware store because it's the same as a chainsaw. I won't say parts are cheap but I think everything has become expensive. They like race fuel so operating cost is a little higher then say a Montesa which is happy to run on almost anything. Invest in a guard for the header if it does not already have one.

Gee, what happened to the original Beta fender lineaway 🤔 did it snap into pieces or just break off at the plastic mounting points?

Myth lol ... do you love those plastic front fender bracket braces that break at the inserts.

There are a lot of Beta riders around here and the bikes fair as well as any, the plastics historically get broken a lot and are expensive and that's why I mentioned it. Most brands have their strong points and weak points and they all break if they get trashed on the rocks. Dealer support depends on where you live and for me it makes a big difference to what I ride.

'wanting to get into trials' step one locate and associate with the local riders building amateur competition events, volunteer to help set out sections when they are preparing their next event, take your bike because it may include some riding. There are only 2 places you can typically ride gas powered trials bikes without issue: private lands and closed course competitions (which might be anywhere)

Terrific bike if the plastic fenders don't break and you can handle starting a bike with the kickstart on the left side.

Easy enough to test it with the cir-clip in a different slot. Also try running the bike while it is on a fairly steep nose down angle, or steep uphill and see if that changes the carburetors operation, if it does then you need to clean the emulsion tube or adjust the float level. Sparkplug read is a better way to know if it is running rich or lean compared to how often the fan kicks on.

... and the idle adjuster screw does nothing? Most likely cause; you have a round carb slide inserted 180 degrees from where it should be, a pin goes into a slot in the side of the carb slide and on the other side is a ramp where the idle screw pushes against.

Stators can be meter tested, spark timing can be checked with a strobe, but nothing beats a second identical model motorcycle to swap parts out until the problem goes to the other bike, particularly when the part being tested is the ignition control module. The ability to self service your own rides is motivation to own 2 trials bikes of the same model.

Dry fit the new bushing onto the stanchion tube first. The slot in the bushing when it is compressed to close should provide an interference fit on the stanchion tube and not a sloppy fit. Now you will be able to reassemble it fairly easy. About a foot long length of ABS plastic tube like used in a central vacuum with a saw cut down one side is a good improvised tool for bumping things back together. Not all aftermarket fork seals are created equal, some are actually intended for rotating shafts instead of stanchion tubes which are closer to hydraulic rams. That's the difference between a 4$ seal and a 20$ SKF seal. The bell washer will always have the biggest hole towards the oil seal, that way the washer bangs up against the steel part of the oil seal and not the delicate rubber lip part of the seal.

I found that most of the replacement bushings need some careful filing to make the slot larger, which effectively makes the bushing fit the bore much better. Make sure you put the bell shaped washer in correctly or that will rapidly destroy the new seals. Lot easier to show somebody how to service forks then to describe it.

CMA National Championship is happening on the Vancouver Island this year November 9 & 10. 😎 you should go check it out. Enjoy the TY they are a lot of fun.

Well there you go, cheap and easy way to tame down your throttle response is to install a slower throttle.

Is the throttle tube white or black? = fast or slow throttle

😎 Our weekend events were a success 👍 weather was great and the bugs tolerable. Results have been posted to the ATA site link above. post up photos here if anybody has them

Heard something interesting on the weekend, how much oil do you run in the transmission? Apparently OSSA need more oil than called for to avoid transmission friction problems associated with sustained engine speeds. Something in the realm of 100cc extra.

I had a bike once (315 Cota) that changed idle so much when the fan kicked on that I installed a toggle switch to over-ride the thermostat, when I was going to ride a section I just switched on the fan and I knew it would not stall on me mid section because the fan kicked on. I thought it was a good feature to have a bypass switch and it never caused any problems having the 2 switches in tandem. If nothing else it's good for trouble-shooting.

If the fan works by by-passing the thermostat switch then yes 👍 you found the problem. Replace the switch or by-pass it with a little toggle switch and operate the fan manually.

Square black box, looks to be your rectifier/regulator and that will be the part that turns AC (Alternating Current) from the alternator (stator coils) into 12 volts DC (Direct Current) required by the fan motor. Conversion to DC from AC uses diodes and diodes are one of the more likely components to fry.

Tank vent is not plugged or assembled wrong? Good idea to focus on the float needle seat and emulsion tube based on the symptoms you described. Don't over-look the tether kill switch as being a problem if it doesn't want to start after a crash or even just a shut-down. Black plug is either rich mixture or dirty air cleaner or even too much oil on the air filter element. Bikes not ridden much are in greater danger of encountering carburetor problems then the one that is ridden regularly, modern fuel has a shelf life similar to milk.

The clutch release rattle is not a big issue, the sprag bearing spring in my 2021 lasted 1 year and the sprag in my 2023 bike has completely failed after only 30 hours of service. Sadly it's more of a when it will fail then an if.

The clutch release bearing can rattle a little until the clutch is engaged. You said you pushed the button to start it? The sprag bearing in the electric starter (if so equipped) makes horrible noises when the little pawl return spring in that assembly gets bagged out, those noises will get worse until the starter no longer functions and sounds like a bag of hammers when you push the starter button, then you need to service the sprag bearing. Kick start will continue to work and I haven't found any disastrous damage from the spring wearing out. The entire sprag assembly is not a cheap part, but the spring would be inexpensive IF you can source them.

Fuel mixture too lean? Pull the spark plug after it acts up and see what it looks like. It's called a 'plug chop'