lemur

I heard KTM uses the same sprag bearing setup. I knew the sprag was going to be a high maintenance item from the start but this is over the top, when you get a new bike from the factory and it already sounds like a bag full of hammers that's a big problem.

All of my electric start problems repeatedly turn out to be related to the sprag bearing spring, I have both a 2021 and a 2023, replaced the battery on the 2021 and likely did not need to, the 2021 is on its second rebuilt sprag bearing and my 2023 sprag has failed in less than 37 hours of operation and I have been using the kickstart most of the time. That light weight sprag bearing spring is going to be a huge problem if we can't buy them cheap and 6 at a time.

Never get my fingers pinched even if I punch a tree, rarely damage a lever in a fall.

No the levers should be roughly 20 degrees down from horizontal. If you tilt the levers too far downwards you won't be able to reach them on steep down grades.

I solve that problem with shorty levers and by moving the lever mounts way far in on the handlebars. There is only enough room on the lever for one finger so the lever can never crush the remaining 3 fingers and you are operating with the index finger near the outmost end of the lever giving you the best possible purchase and power to operate the lever comfortably. Clutch friction range should be where your index finger can operate easiest and not give you arm cramps. If your index finger needs to extend too much to fully engage the clutch then you will get arm pump fast so set up of the levers is very dependent on the size of your particular hand.

Or you could wire the lights to run dead loss off a lithium battery and charge it from a wall outlet when you are not riding.

How close is this to what you have? http://ossa.2y.net/ossa/onlinemanuals/ossa5speedmanual/Page124.jpg

Transmission and wet clutch oil actually, since it is not a 4-cycle engine. You are looking for a lubricant (oil) that is suited to the operating temperature you are likely to be running in. I use all season hydraulic excavator oil which is ISO46 why because I buy it in 5 gallon pails and it works as good in a motorcycle transmission as it does in a farm tractor transmission or excavator that is full of gears and wet clutches. More important is that you keep the oil clean and free of water, so change it frequently which is going to happen a lot more frequently if you are buying it at 7$ per litre and not 20$ per litre. Viscosity charts will show you where !SO46 fits relative to other lubricants. What you don't need in a manual transmission and wet clutch is multi-grade 4-stroke engine oil with friction modifiers.

Some days nothing seems to want to work good

Easy to cook a rear brake by dragging it against the engine power, front brake not so much if you don't have pavement. Last time I had a trials bike front brake steaming hot on trials terrain was never.

Blow torch or do you do this on pavement?

I just sand them dry and put them on dry to break them in. One thing I did run across recently was wedge shaped pads, one end contacted before the other. I had to keep sanding the high side until the pad face was parallel to the steel backing plate. Might want to watch for that, they performed poorly out of the package. Bought a set of pads with lots of brass flakes in them, those were garbage and I went back to Galfer reds.

You have to buy a GasGas service manual? that sucks, it should come with a new bike.

Hints for all on reassembly; torque charts are based on wet threads not dry. Service manuals or the net sometimes give inappropriate torque values, triple check them because many confuse inch pounds with foot pounds during conversion, or they are just printed wrong. If you are not using a 1/4" drive torque wrench on M6 or M8 bolts it might be the wrong tool for the job, I've also seen people not use the handle correctly, the handle pivots at the correct distance to the tool, it doesn't flop back and forth like that without reason. If unfamiliar with operation practice on something that does not matter first. 👍

If all else fails; see if the casting will take aluminum weld, fill the holes with weld, drill new holes and tap them to the standard size.

Biggest difference other then cost: HeliCoil is a coil spring and will not provide a watertight repair at the threads. TimeSert sells a threaded insert and threads can be made to seal water pressure if you end up drilling into the water jacket. Using a drill press to start the tap straight into the clearance hole is a good practice. The manufacturers catalogue will detail the size of the clearance hole required.

Did it come with a white or a black throttle (fast or slow). imo That makes a huge difference to the engine response for very little cost.

Fish Glue would still work far better, a tube needs some form of rim lock. ... but lemur, why use fish glue and not something else? <- because you can reactivate it any time by adding water 🤓

How long was it in the ocean?

You're not going to believe this but Fish Glue I use it in winter tires that are full of screws and sidewall splits, it's water soluble and non toxic for easy cleanup. Not expensive and available from stores that cater to woodworking.

Biggest difference to some people is the kick starter on the opposite side.

That's why there are so many burn marks on the inside right leg of all my riding pants, there is raw flame going through that little single walled header pipe.

Is it ownership registered? Nobody can guess at the value when we don't even know what country the bike is in, are we shopping in euros, US$ or loonies? That looks to be about a 3200 loonie motorcycle here in Canada which might mean nothing depending on where you live. Less value if it can not be plated for off-road use because that would make it ridable only on private land and in closed course competition events. ymmv

Whisky throttle is when you experience a brief disconnect between your brain and your physical dexterity. I can tell you're not addicted to the sport yet, but once you do become comfortable with the controls and start moving with your machine instead of just using it to haul you around like a wagon, then you will become addicted to riding trials bikes. What they didn't tell you at the dealership is; you didn't just buy some vehicle to transport you over terrain so rough that it could kill a horse, you bought an exercise machine that requires riding every chance you get until you get really good with it. Master the controls first and learn to read the terrain, learn to move your body in harmony with the motorcycle while practicing the technique' of doing wheelies, splats, zaps, hops and all those other neat tricks. The motorcycle does not make it easy, it only makes it possible and about 4 days or more per week is usually required to notice a marked improvement in your riding skills and physical endurance, much less than 2 days per week riding will have you regressing in skills and physical conditioning just as it would happen with any other strenuous exercise regime.

Sweet bike! From here the fuel tank and possibly even the frame looks like it came straight off an AJS Stormer.