lemur

You're asking the wrong questions, if you want a catalog of taper bearing seals you go to the same place you buy your bearings and ask for the bearing seal catalog. Bearing seal manufacturers include names like Timken, FAG, SKF and dozens more that you will recognize. Virtually every bearing supplier has listings for bearing seals on spec, you're just asking for the wrong thing when you ask for kits to fit a specific vehicle application. ... taper roller bearings with a seal on one side and only a grease cup on the other side is standard equipment on the majority of car, truck and trailer wheels traveling the road today.

It's just an opinion but when I ride any modern 300cc trials bike that can pull from 0 to maximum usable speed in third gear, I put it in third and leave it there. I've learned to control third gear with the clutch and throttle and that gear range now feels natural in all situations. Better riders apparently have the skills to master 3 or 4 gear ranges, not me, 3rd. with stock sprockets works a treat so I use it faithfully, 4th. for me is only for riding fast trails & riding between sections, ymmv. Highly recommend you try 3rd. a 2021 Beta 300 factory has ample power to pull a light to average weight rider with ease. First gear is great for getting a light weight rider into trouble at the top of a steep climb, I can't remember ever using first gear for anything other then to locate neutral.

If you are weighting the bars too much you are not bending your knees enough.

Sealed taper bearing, good luck with that you would need to sink the bearing deep into the headstock and install a seal above and below the bearings. If your headstock has bearing seals now those too are standard items at the same store. Do you really want somebody to put those 4 items into a kit form and sell it to you at 300% markup?

They don't make bearings just for motorcycles, take it to a bearing supply store. ... if it is a taper bearing you just described a common 32004 taper bearing

It's not so much about putt putt putt and then standing still as it is being able to accelerate over something and recover on the other side gracefully, retaining forward momentum when required and having control in down hills, bumpy terrain and possibly deep mud and water terrain. Add the cement block before you turn out for a competition or you might be over-whelmed by the first rock outcrop that has tape on both sides to make you go over and not around the rock.

You can use your meter on continuity test setting to test your points for resistance and for timing when they close or open. TY175 has 2 stator coils, one dedicated to spark and the other for lights, all coils should have measurable low resistance of just a few ohms. Spark ignition coil will have measurable continuity resistance as well as the spark plug wire lead and cap. The voltage output from the stator ignition coil is non-regulated alternating current in excess of 6 volts and best tested with an oscilloscope.

Check that AC power in excess if 12 volts is coming out of the alternator and if there is good power there, then test for ~12VDC coming out of the rectifier.

You don't need to modify what they already sell. That is one of the parts that were supplied in duplicate and they even sent new pop rivets to change it. It will be slightly louder and less restrictive with the change. ... Honda part number you are looking for is 18338-nn4-g30 "Cap Comp End". Conversion documentation can be found here: http://montesatrials.com.au/store/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/2015_-full-power-Kit_Cota-4RT-260.pdf

No worries Luc The competition parts and instructions were packaged with the 260 4RT' homologation models, it is unlikely those optional components would be included in either the competition only (Repsol) or 4-Ride street versions. Those extra parts when packaged with a new bike in the crate were typically retained by the distributor as part of their pre-delivery setup. Bottom line is we paid extra $ for the dealers to keep things we paid for. Instructions for race conversion were supplement to the provided service manual. Homologation bikes also came with a horn, turn signals, handlebar switches, 2 different size rear sprockets, 2 chains in different lengths to suit the sprocket change, key steering lock, 2 header pipes, 2 heat shields to suit each header, intake and exhaust restrictors, 2 completely different headlights, one small and the other street sized including a speedometer instrument cluster, speed sensor, mirrors, 2 stainless tail pipe pieces, top airbox intake restrictor ... basically everything your 4-Ride came with to make it street legal. There was no MAP change required after the intake and exhaust was altered, only an idle adjustment.

It's as simple as reading the race preparation instructions that came in the crate along with the non-cat header pipe plus the replacement rear tail piece featuring the larger exhaust opening, then using the new pop-rivets also supplied in the crate to put the exhaust and packing back together. If your bike was fitted with restrictors to make it suitable for restricted learner permit use, there will be additional restrictors in the intake and exhaust, also covered in the race preparation instructions. Does this make it illegal for road use, yes of course it does! Same as removing the pollution control devices from your automobile. After you make the race prep changes you let the engine idle long enough for the fan to kick on and the fuel injection sorts itself out. It's that easy.

Putting a seat on a trials bike is like putting an anchor on an airplane, it will cost you lots and buy you nothing. If you put a seat on a trials bike you will ride it the same as you rode the enduro bike and learn nothing about trials riding. Seen this happen many times in the last 2 years with many new trials riders coming off enduro bikes. There is no place for a saddle on a trials bike, it's a stand up machine.

IF your 310 is still stock original, electricity is initially produced by the magneto flywheel magnets passing by a coil and that coil can be tested for continuity, provided the coil has not failed your spark is controlled by breaker points that would be highly suspect if the coil tests good, in close proximity to the breaker points is a condenser which is also a component that is known to fail with age. This all powers the ignition coil, plug wire, cap and spark plug which are all subject to failure although not as likely to fail as the previous noted items.

Strongly advise that in future you keep the tank topped up, you got lucky.

Never 🤔 clutch and throttle control are never independent of one another. Skip all that stationary balance practice, you can do that with a round log and a flat board while you are standing in front of your television. Get yourself a concrete block 8" or 12" is adequate and set that on the ground where you can do full lock figure 8's over it. The object is to pop over the cement block with control, style and with not putting a foot down to balance. Once you master that to the point where you become board with it put the block on a slope and try it again. Once you get board with all that you are ready to go out in the wild and learn to really ride. If you want events near you there is only one way, you host the events, then everybody has to come to you when they want to ride.

There is a drain hole in the bottom and you will find it once you remove the air box and completely clean it, will require some significant digging to clear the hole.

The pump should be completely submerged, if yours does not want to play after you ran it dry you might have cooked the pump. If you wanted to just check for fuel pressure you could just loosen or remove the banjo connector bolt and see if you have fuel flow, that test is covered in the service manual. Fuel injection pumps depend on the fuel for cooling, you should never run it real low or dry on fuel as that may result in a cooked fuel pump which is going to cost you close to a grand to replace.

Such contrasting experience with the materials is likely the result of leather being a natural material, my issue is the exact opposite with fit but I never noticed much difference between the Boulder and the Balance fit at the calves. I buy either of those boots without hesitation and destroy them in about 2 - 3 years. They are all waterproof even in winter if you stick your foot into a plastic bread bag before you put the boot on 🤓

Get somebody to mentor you how to service forks the first time, from then on it will be easy, I know it does happen because I've taught a lot of people how to do it. Once you've done one fork model the rest are close enough for it to be easy. Changing the fork fluid is one of the more frequently over-looked service items, always drain the old oil into a clean clear glass container so you can inspect it for debris or water or pieces of fork slider coating etc. I keep slider bushings and fork seals in stock so they are on hand when I need them. I find the gap on replacement slide bushings needs to be carefully filed and shaped before installation to get the right stiction free fit, watch for that.

Love the electric start 300 myself, I ride it almost exclusively in third gear and it pulls incredible strong at low rpm Montesa is a better winter stud bike for sure. Key to advance your skills and motivate yourself to ride lots is to have others to ride with, preferably better riders than yourself plus a good venue. You will want a ride at least new enough to have 4 pot front brake or upgrade to that and keep everything well serviced as possible, the bike needs to run perfect for you to concentrate on developing riding skills. imho smaller displacement machines can actually be more difficult to ride because I have to put more effort into basically everything I do on it.

Biggest difference between Forma and Gaerne is not the fit but the hardness of the leather, Forma leather is soft enough to not require break-in and they wear out faster especially near the ankle.

They just told you; go to your closest bearing supply store and show them what you need. Bearings are their business and what you are looking for is nothing special.

Cascade Imports out of Mission B.C. stocks OEM Montesa parts and has for years, Don always had better parts stock then when Honda Canada wasted the business away. ... you didn't really say what part of the country you call local so B.C might be a lot closer then U.K. and your money goes further up here.

Take a drop of pink liquid and rub it between your fingers, is it oil or is it coolant? I would think coolant for it to have any pink colouration. If it is indeed coolant you need to check your water pump seals, cylinder gaskets or coolant hoses. ... do you run oil or ATF in the transmission, ATF is thin as pee, could even be pink and has low viscosity.

From MC-1 product data sheet: Equally suitable for air-cooled or liquid-cooled high performance motorcycle 2T engines Also suitable for all types of 2T engines including lawn mowers, weed eaters, trimmers, chainsaws, leaf blowers, snow blowers and more Manufacturers are pretty careful with making unsupported claims that could kill their business and experience tells me it will work just fine if the oil has 80:1 or even 100:1 printed right on the packaging.