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Sounds like the scene in Worlds Fastest Indian where Burt Monro tried adding lead weight to the front of his motorcycle to improve handling. If you haven't seen the movie, the extra weight theory was a fail.

This years CMA National is Still a best kept secret, although rumour has it an event is slated somewhere on the Vancouver Island in the late fall. Wish I had known this is how it is going to be earlier and I would have booked my July 20&21 as a national, too late now. I'm going to say it right now that I'm hosting a CMA National competition in 2025 and it will be some time after bug season but before school starts so people can actually plan to travel, attend and participate. You want to know what CMA really is to trials riders and to the people that actually make events happen, CMA is just another obstacle. They don't even broker insurance any more, they sell competition licenses. CMA Tips and tricks: Buy your competition license well in advance and save a few bucks. Pre-register for events in time and save a few bucks. If you hold a competition license for 25 consecutive years you qualify to become a life member and your competitor license will be half the price from that time forward and you can save a few bucks. Never send them any more money then you need to. Never ask CMA anything ever, just tell them how it is going to be. That's how to deal with CMA.

Built a short notice spring trial to help feed the black fly population this weekend, details can be found here: https://www.ataont.ca/ata-arden-trial-may-5th-2024-pre-entry-required/ ... and yes it's an Arden trial and they are forecasting rain so it is going to be a very hard event.

The fuel injection on the 4RT is superlative, it's the feature most lacking on the Beta 4T. Whoever told you the 4RT is not good in mud is simply wrong, the 4-stroke excels in the mud or on snow and ice. The Montesa suspension feels far more grounded than the TRS which has an extremely lively suspension. I owned several versions of the 4RT and found the 300cc engine to be superior for pulling 3rd. gear. Two things you need to adapt to when going to the 4T from a high performance 2T: one is you need to calm your throttle movements and avoid blipping the engine, and two you need to learn to carry more revs in advance of needing the power. This is the first year since 1976 that I don't own a Montesa and at times I do miss them. I don't think there is anything I can do on my TRS 300RR's that I can't do on a Montesa 300, although the TRS just seems more fun and exciting to ride overall. Things I miss about the Montesa is cheap and easy fuel consumption and the Montesa was a far better bike to stud the tires and ride in winter. Montesa won't start if the engine is sub-zero, if it gets that cold you need to build a fire under it to thin the oil. In sub-zero the TRS lithium battery electric start is useless so you need to kick start it to play. Beta 4T from my experience was a #$%^ to start all time, particularly after a fall. Montesa wants to keep running even if the bike is upside down which is why it has a tilt switch to shut it down in a crash.

It's a brushed electric motor, if you put more volts through it then the windings are rated for of course it will spin a little faster, right up until it fries. Stepping up the voltage with an additional battery array and then adding a step-down transformer to bring the voltage back down to suit the motor was an expensive and complex way to increase the battery capacity feeding the original motor.

You're not going to get more power out of the same motor, you need to change the motor to one that operates on higher voltage and is capable of drawing the additional watts. Watts is the measure of power and heat, volts is the measure of electron push. Then you need a motor controller that is suited to that motor. Basically the motor horsepower upgrade path on an Oset is to add batteries and replace the 2 most expensive parts, the motor speed controller and the motor. Pavement is about the only place they will be able to use the extra power, everywhere dirt will be wheel spin because the small diameter rear tires are marginal on loose or slippery surfaces.

What does the tag on your motor say? Attached is the tag from a little Oset motor and what it says for power is all it can handle. I'm guessing the motor you have indicates a voltage range and not a fixed voltage? ... & are we seriously talking about souping up a kids electric scooter 🤔 that usually means it is time for a full size motorcycle.

Grew up around electricity and electronics, it's a passion. But in this case this is why I always like to buy my trials bikes in pairs, makes troubleshooting a no brainer 😆

Lots of info there but that fella never returned to say what the problem was.

How old is your spark plug cap? Service manuals indicate a short life for resistor plug caps and recommend a fairly frequent scheduled replacement.

Did you already read "Sherco Ignition Timing Manual Supplement" at least you can see where the timing make is suppose to be. Personally I doubt there is a problem with the timing. Continuity meter test of the ignition timing pickup coil would be in order, the timing pickup initiates the spark which is intensified by the ignition module and the ignition coil. Service manual will show resistance values you should see on the wires connected to the ignition module inputs. The rectifier/regulator should only be needed for the fan motor and possibly lights and that is the only place you should read DC power of roughly 12 volts, everything else will be AC. Based on the photos you have some work to do on the spark plug wire and cap, everything downstream of the ignition module to the plug cap can also be meter tested for continuity.

Assuming the head gasket is leaking into the water jacket, typically that would force coolant out of the cooling system because combustion pressures are so much higher than coolant system pressure, it would be unusual for coolant to be forced or drawn into the combustion chamber during operation and more likely to leak coolant into the combustion chamber when it is not running. Raw coolant might collect in the exhaust system and that will not steam or evaporate until your exhaust temperatures are very high. I think you are looking for signs of coolant disappearing. Anti-freeze has a distinct odour and that should be another tell.

Rule of thumb is white smoke is produced by burning coolant.

Well when mine went the dealer said he knew exactly what was needed and the parts were already in stock and he had done them before. My TRS dealer helped me install the parts in a hurry because we wanted to go riding.

I she blows you can disconnect the starter by removing the idler gear very easy. (spur gear between the starter and the sprag)

Horrible isn't it. Sprag clutch, should continue to work until it doesn't and then you get to replace it. Already had one go myself, it's the cost of having electric start. Seems to be safe to still ride after the bearing blows, it doesn't seem to spew metal parts everywhere.

What should they do with all the dead animal hides, would you have them buried or burned? <- a reasonable question.

Well he does ride Montesa 4T which weighs more and has a far less lively suspension to the TRS, but TRS too light in the front end, no.

That's a first, never heard of anybody complain about a motorcycle being too light before.

So good I bought a second one 👍 electric start is expensive to maintain and doesn't work well in sub-zero temps, otherwise the bikes are awesome and better built then GasGas imo.

All of those electric components can be meter or scope tested to determine if replacement is required. ... I always start trouble-shooting electrics from the power source and work down stream (garbage in garbage out) you are doing it in reverse. Alternator produces the electricity so you should always start there.

Boots designed for Enduro and Motocross. They are like wearing leg casts on your feet compared to moccasins and you will be giving up brake and peg control for increased ankle support.

Simple Zener diode will be mounted on a heat sink and shielded from melting anything. Time was when you could buy that fridge rectifier from a local radio shack store for 4 bucks, dating myself.

Multi-meter sucks for reading AC an oscilloscope is the way to go, that said it sure does sound like you have the multi-meter on the wrong settings. Start with the stator output, that is where you should see lots of non-regulated non-rectified dirty voltage coming out, your lights originally use non rectified power with the AC voltage controlled only by a regulator that sends excess voltage to ground (make sure the ground connection is solid and if that is not happening your regulator is fried.) your fan motor is the only thing requiring DC volts so after the thermostat switch you have the full wave bridge rectifier. That rectifier contains 4 diodes and is the part that will most likely fry if your voltage regulation fails. If voltage output from the stator gives wild numbers inspect the stator coil for damage from heat and test the continuity on the coil windings. From the yellow wire output to ground should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms as per the GasGas wiring schematic.

Would love to ride with y'all some time to show you how it works 😎 ... but do you have to keep dropping names of top riders.