lemur

The person that reported the oil hole problem said the symptom included oil never making it to the filter. If your filters get dirty we can assume that is not a problem. All I ever used was Repsol 10w30 as per the manual, it only holds half a litre so I changed it lots. Never had piston problems even after dropping one in the lake.

@bobb so what's the diagnosis, Is she going to live or require surgery?

Anybody have recommendations for something light that protects your ribs some but doesn't cook you? Had a good one yesterday, high sided my TRS onto a parked GasGas solid bar end and a Sherco serrated foot peg. Tired of busting ribs.

Primarily known to drown in deep water crossings.

Never! That would be a formula for complete disaster from the first time you did a wheelie.

My brother added weight to his RL250 crank and when his throttle stuck on in a fall the extra weight twisted the crankshaft, didn't make him ride any better it just cost him a major service. ... most fun ever on a stock TL125 was sneaking up on people in the woods, they were nice and quiet stock.

... and only one field coil so they fibbed about the adding lights part. Extra weight on the crank will lessen the likelihood of a stall but also retards the engines ability to accelerate. Your riding style is what will determine if the heavy flywheel is a desirable modification or counter productive to your riding, when I rode TY250 I found it advantageous to go the opposite way and lighten the flywheel by removing the factory added weight ymmv.

Search for '2013 beta Evo fan switch'. pictures show it to be threaded which only makes sense because there is some pressure there.

So I take it the steel part we see behind the bolts and the paper gasket on one side is a stationary steel spacer ring? We need to see inside to know what they did in there 👍

Pull the cover off and you might be able to tell, you certainly would not want to ride it like that. The OEM flywheel should have part numbers stamped on it and you should be able to see the coils attached to the cover.

It's a Keihin carburetor, go to the Keinin catalogue, Sudco is the biggest supplier of carburetor info and cataloged parts in NorthAmerica ... spark plug looks nice and toasty brown from here even though the important parts are out of focus.

You can rebuild the clutch master with all new parts for about 50 bucks once you identify the model.

It's hydraulic is it not? does it take DOT fluid or mineral oil and did you use the wrong thing or is the master cylinder just seizing from old DOT fluid corrosion? If it was tight at the slave end it would more likely jam on so I would say check the clutch master cylinder plus make sure it's not just tight at the lever pivot.

Half a litre of the transmission oil I use on all my 2-stroke and 4RT transmissions costs about 4 bucks. For about the last decade I have used Kubota branded All season hydraulic excavator oil ISO46 and buy it in a 19 litre pail, that's ~38 oil changes for about 150 (CDN$). For decades before this I used similar products from other farm tractor brand (NewHolland or JohnDeere) and I ride it in sub-zero winter temperatures too with no clutch or transmission issues ever! If you ever have a farm tractor apart you will see almost the same things inside it as a motorcycle. Motorcycles are not considered to be any harder on wet clutch and gear and shifter lubricant or require anything special compared to farm and industrial construction equipment. Except we don't log anywhere near the hours and those machines filter the oil. Your half litre of transmission oil is not filtered and degrades only through the introduction of water, clutch pad material and metal bits in the worst case. The best way to keep your oil good is to change it lots. Consider how much oil changes will cost you buying it at 2.5 times the price plus expensive special shipping for 1 litre and how often will you want to be changing it. Using a relatively cheap and local available lubricant will end up being way better.

It's just gear oil and the chances of it being anything more than a Netherlands company repackaging a product under their name brand is slim to nil. IMO you are going out of your way to pay way more money for something you can buy cheaper and local. The best transmission oil for your 2-stroke engine is the oil you can replace more frequently. If it was truly special it will have a military spec number and that can be used to identify alternative lubricants with the same properties.

I did read your posts 👍 getting as much air off the cinderblock and recovering with complete control is the same motion as the zap, throttle and clutch actions are the same, you are trying to learn the bikes suspension, power and most important control over the bikes attitude in all dimensions in combination with your movements on the bike. If Enduro riding is checkers MotoTrials is chess 😎

The way to become a better rider is to ride with better riders, can't stress that enough. Cement block on level ground and try to get as much air off it as possible, but land it with control so you can add a full lock turn figure 8 over the block 👍 try it you'll like it.

If you want to improve your enduro skills learn to ride your Trials bike on Trials terrain and work on techniques, don't just ride it like a light weight Enduro bike or you won't get much out of it and you will quickly give it up, we see that a lot around here, only a small percentage of Enduro riders buy a trials bike and an even smaller percentage make the effort to ride it like a Trials bike. Seeking out riding partners that you can learn from is key 👍

I do the exact opposite; empty the reservoir of old fluid, fully retract the pads to force as much fluid out of the calliper as possible and use a great big plastic syringe to force fresh DOT fluid in through the bleed screw, clean up and discard any old fluid that get pushed up into the reservoir, then top up the reservoir with fresh fluid. Done correctly you won't be introducing any air into the system at all and bleeding might not even be required.

As a TRS rider my take on riding the Evo is 'too heavy' in the front end, different strokes for different folks and the last time I heard of a trials motorcycle being 'too light' was never. Rosscorob buy the motorcycle that appeals to you the most and learn it inside out, if the Beta you are looking at features all new plastics installed, now you know why. edit: 48.7 pounds, that's how much a TRS300RRw/electric start weighs if you sneak a bathroom scale out to the garage and stick it under the front wheel is that too light?

Brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs water from the atmosphere) the brake master cylinder needs to be vented to atmospheric pressure. The rubber bladder separates the brake fluid from the water. If it was wet on top when you opened it, that is water and it's working.

So why did Beta not put large washers on them? ... give it up, Beta plastics were designed to break easy, that's a fact not a myth. There are recommended modifications you can do to the rear fender to slightly mitigate some destruction near the airbox lid and the best fix for the front fender is to replace it with the front fender off a bike that has a metal mount bracket like most other brands.

If water gets into the suspension linkage needle bearings on any of them they quickly rust, the part that showed the most wear on mine today was the drawn cup part of the needle bearing which is pressed into the linkage castings, they were destroyed, the inside bearing surfaces also showed signs of wear. Other brands would have similar issues given the amount of riding I do on my bikes and conditions. Montesa linkage is more subject to impact damage then the TRS linkage, Beta is also more robust but my riding partners Beta needs the linkage rebuilt right now, figure on every 3 or 4 years needing to drop about 300 or 400 bucks for linkage bearings and seals. None of them have grease fittings and they would last a lot longer if they did. Wheel bearings is another thing you need to keep on top of, any amount of play in the wheel bearing is too much and they should be replaced, figure on another 100 bucks every 2 or 3 years for those, most brands use the same bearings and you can buy those locally, get the expensive name brand ones.

I'm a senior citizen so I like the 300's 😎 stick it in third gear and just dial on the broad powerband. I'd buy another (300cc) Montesa or two in a heartbeat if the dealer support was here but Honda killed it.

If I was in the business of buying motorcycles to rent and keep running after everybody has been trashing them it would be Montesa 4RT, hard to break and easy to service if you are not intimidated by 4-stroke engines. Great bike in deep mud, for long uphill climbs and for winter riding if you don't let it get ice cold. TRS is the most exciting and fun trials bike I have ever ridden, my 2021 bike was built during covid shortages and I think I had every bad part they ever exported so you are safe. Beta evo factory is a near equal performing bike and has just as many strengths and shortcomings. Beta would wear me out starting it and that includes the Beta 4-stroke. You are shopping for used so you might end up with anything. Buy the one that starts easy, runs good and has no free-play in the chassis, wheels and suspension.