lemur

I'm just coming off yet another episode of busted ribs and finally ordered a chest protector that has yet to arrive, recommend you consider the same, ribs hurt more then most things and most of my bad get offs has been bar ends or foot peg into the chest and mid abdomen 😐 your crash damage may vary.

Easy bike to work on, no real surprises, rear suspension linkage is vulnerable to damage and once water gets to the needle bearings they rust quickly. If you don't know the history of the wheel bearings I would replace them, bearings can be had from almost any bearing supply store and good wheel bearings make a huge difference in the efficiency of your brakes. If performance is not great check the reed valves very carefully to make sure they close light tight. The exhaust packing is prone to clog with oil if you use some oil brands at their recommended ratio. Service the front forks lots, keep good slide bushings in them and change the oil frequently and ride it lots 👍

I had one of them, loved it. Sturdy frame, good performer, tough plastics, some current model parts will fit right onto it, they respond well to race fuel. Can't say I would want to be sourcing new parts if it needs anything significant, but that really depends on what part of the world you live in 😎

Super easy, search for "TRS motorcycle wiring diagram" and it will be the first image that shows. ... if the headlight is having low power issues the fan should be having problems as well.

That's because your roughly 1000$ to replace fuel pump did not burn out.

That's a strange one, I looked at the wiring diagrams and can't see anything that would account for that unless the tail light wires are shorting out or you have a bad ground back to the engine.

Is it a Light Emitting Diode or incandescent lamp and guessing it has no battery? If it's LED what does your bike have for rectifying the AC produced by the alternator to DC required by a LED? ... + does the fan work as expected? (the fan also operates on DC)

Oil in the coolant means you would also see coolant in the oil and that would almost certainly be the water pump seal. Just a hunch the part number also relates to the dimensions 12.30.7 oil seal

FWIW Montesa from 315R on uses 2 different types of friction materials in their friction plates, a mix of paper and cork apparently alter the friction point. I bought a full set of new plates in 2001 and they are still in the spares box, never managed to kill a clutch. My understanding was that the paper material grabs faster because it takes on less oil then the cork.

Does your fan blow or suck air through the rad ? It's a DC motor so if it spins the wrong direction you have the polarity reversed.

~12 volts D.C. after the regulator ~20 volts A.C. output from the stator

Vinegar Magnesium is highly reactive to it, aluminum is not.

Ordered a Troy Lee 3900 Ultra Armored Top, looks like it covers all the important places. 👍 Thank-you for the well wishes Reggie 😎

You look at the pictures of the special tool Beta would sell to do the job and improvise something that works the same way.

The person that reported the oil hole problem said the symptom included oil never making it to the filter. If your filters get dirty we can assume that is not a problem. All I ever used was Repsol 10w30 as per the manual, it only holds half a litre so I changed it lots. Never had piston problems even after dropping one in the lake.

@bobb so what's the diagnosis, Is she going to live or require surgery?

Anybody have recommendations for something light that protects your ribs some but doesn't cook you? Had a good one yesterday, high sided my TRS onto a parked GasGas solid bar end and a Sherco serrated foot peg. Tired of busting ribs.

Primarily known to drown in deep water crossings.

Never! That would be a formula for complete disaster from the first time you did a wheelie.

My brother added weight to his RL250 crank and when his throttle stuck on in a fall the extra weight twisted the crankshaft, didn't make him ride any better it just cost him a major service. ... most fun ever on a stock TL125 was sneaking up on people in the woods, they were nice and quiet stock.

... and only one field coil so they fibbed about the adding lights part. Extra weight on the crank will lessen the likelihood of a stall but also retards the engines ability to accelerate. Your riding style is what will determine if the heavy flywheel is a desirable modification or counter productive to your riding, when I rode TY250 I found it advantageous to go the opposite way and lighten the flywheel by removing the factory added weight ymmv.

Search for '2013 beta Evo fan switch'. pictures show it to be threaded which only makes sense because there is some pressure there.

So I take it the steel part we see behind the bolts and the paper gasket on one side is a stationary steel spacer ring? We need to see inside to know what they did in there 👍

Pull the cover off and you might be able to tell, you certainly would not want to ride it like that. The OEM flywheel should have part numbers stamped on it and you should be able to see the coils attached to the cover.

It's a Keihin carburetor, go to the Keinin catalogue, Sudco is the biggest supplier of carburetor info and cataloged parts in NorthAmerica ... spark plug looks nice and toasty brown from here even though the important parts are out of focus.