lemur

Sure sounds like the same problem with a resolution found.

Sure does look like Cota. My riding buddy just picked up his new Beta Factory and the kickstand self retracts the same way, you can fix that quick with a hand file. I had a collection of Montesa side stands from 2001 to 2017 and yes there were variations on the theme, they all were removed after the first time it cost me a 5, the stand with a foot pad welded on the end caught logs and would stop you dead. lol I stored them with my MV Agusta F3 passenger pegs in the useless parts drawer.

In 1974, that's easy, you oiled the chain with the used oil that you drained out of the engine.

Just noticed a small something, your side stand is welded onto the swingarm, that's not stock because I always removed it with the 2 bolts in the swingarm, don't need side stands around here because we have trees and rocks everywhere. 😎

You got it right; the lobe with the larger contact surface goes to the swingarm, smaller one bolts to the dog bone linkage, longest arm bolts to the shock.

Is that anything like an MV Agusta 👍 great ride if you want to go really really fast.

Don't know how it is where you ride, but around here youth class is a support class and not a championship class, you can ride almost anything in a support class because it counts for almost nothing. From my riding on electric trials bikes so far I set the power switch in the lowest power position and don't move that up until I actually find the thing to be underpowered, which so far has never happened.

Found this on ossa-efi re the fuel level sensor: "The sensor is used to illuminate an optional warning light when less than 3/4 liter of fuel remains." "The complete circuit is just the thermistor, an incandescent light bulb, and 12-volt power all connected in series. " If that is true all the fuel level sensor does is turn on a warning light.

Superglue aka crazy aka cyanoacrylate is great to attach 2 perfectly mating surfaces, it can work to seal a tire slash or glue your fingers together, it is useless for filling holes in a steel stanchion tube and you can't form or shape it after it dries. Even 'hard as nails' nail polish can help to fill holes, but anything short of new steel parts will eventually fail plus damage the seals and slide bushings resulting in additional expense.

No matter it is just an anti-rattle clip like on any disc brake and if you study it close the spring clip only looks non-symmetrical. ... only reason you questioned it is because it assembles either way.

The dent is in the stanchion tube? Pictures if you can might help. If the dent is anywhere the fork seal slides over it is a problem and the best fix with stanchion tubes is always replacement. Almost certainly Showa since Honda owns a big part of it. Easy to service once you've seen how, always messy be ready for that, clean everything just like you would clean a gun. Inspect slider bushings for wear on the nylon coatings, the slider bushings are a common item for replacement in order to keep fork seals good. Buy the better name brand fork seals not the super cheap ones, they aren't the same take photos during dismantle so you put everything together the correct way and iff in doubt refer to the parts manual drawings.

The shift forks, shaft they slide on and the little part that follows in the groves on the shift drum would be my prime suspect. Hard to tell much without hands on or having worked the shifter before it was dismantled. Logically one small rough spot would not make it rough shift in all the gears, it would only affect the shifts when the shift forks hit that rough spot.

Shorty lever moved way in on the bars gives you greater leverage and friction zone range. Also makes it impossible to jam your fingers behind the levers. Highly recommended setup to make the lever pull lighter.

Roller bearings should not feel notchy or they have been compromised.

Logic I apply is that the shifter forks are the softest and most malleable parts in the transmission. ... and because I experienced the problem first hand on my 360VA

Check the shift forks for slight bends or wear on the tips or binding on the shaft.

Don't be making announcements about CMA national events before they have even been applied for, it don't work that way and when you do state the date and venue, TBA is useless information. I'm one of the 3 Daves and if you rode CMA sanctioned trials in Ontario you would know who we are, we are the ones that build, host, and clean up the events, that's what you need to know, it's a club when 2 or more of us get together. You don't schedule national events around lesser events you schedule local club events around the nationals. The formula is fairly simple, you need to schedule national events on dates when school is not in session and when the venue can provide a successful event, such as not during black fly season. If you want decent attendance you need to make it a 2 day event and announce it far enough in advance that people can schedule holiday and travel plans. The biggest task for hosting a national observed trial event is getting observers, fix that problem and you will be a trials community hero👍

A little bit of inertia is a wonderful thing.

@michael_t It does not work that way. A sanctioned club needs to be affiliated before the event hosts submit application to hold national competition events. CMA responds to applications they don't build events in Ontario or anywhere else, land owners and club members do that. In my considerable experience hosting CMA nationals over the decades I have never been rejected upon submitting a national trial event application. @michael_t you were aware of this May 1st. 2024 please do not interfere with our ability to host events.

Bring the puller up tight as you can and the give the puller a blow with a weighty hammer, let inertia do the work.

Use a torque wrench and locktite, Ti bolts don't like to be over-torqued 👍

Title says it all, buddy is trying to local source a 10mm x ~105 mm engine bolt because the original aluminum one broke. Note to owners, don't over-tighten & might want to stock a spare something that works, seems the alloy bolt has a prior history of failure.

That would be the correct way for the nut to tighten as a result of the engine firing, if the engine had to spin in the opposite direction it would need a reverse thread. If it had a reverse thread it would need something to positively stop (locking washer) the nut from loosening off in operation. Nobody puts a left hand thread on anything that does not absolutely require it, too expensive.

Not a very expensive part, If it has 3 wire connections, 2 of them will be AC input tabs, one will be a DC positive output tab and the mounting point will provide the chassis ground or DC negative.

Your engine outputs alternating current and the fan runs on direct current, the little black box connected to the fan will be a rectifier/regulator. Function is to convert the AC to DC and typically to limit the voltage so the fan can run on 12 volts DC Power output from the engine alternator is called 'dirty', voltage will be all over the place, job of the rectifier is to change AC to DC and the job of the regulator is to limit the peak voltage. Rectifier uses Diodes ( semiconductor that allows current to flow in one direction.) Regulator uses various transistor semiconductors to send excess voltage to ground and dissipate heat which is a byproduct of that process.