lemur

Horrible isn't it. Sprag clutch, should continue to work until it doesn't and then you get to replace it. Already had one go myself, it's the cost of having electric start. Seems to be safe to still ride after the bearing blows, it doesn't seem to spew metal parts everywhere.

What should they do with all the dead animal hides, would you have them buried or burned? <- a reasonable question.

Well he does ride Montesa 4T which weighs more and has a far less lively suspension to the TRS, but TRS too light in the front end, no.

That's a first, never heard of anybody complain about a motorcycle being too light before.

So good I bought a second one 👍 electric start is expensive to maintain and doesn't work well in sub-zero temps, otherwise the bikes are awesome and better built then GasGas imo.

All of those electric components can be meter or scope tested to determine if replacement is required. ... I always start trouble-shooting electrics from the power source and work down stream (garbage in garbage out) you are doing it in reverse. Alternator produces the electricity so you should always start there.

Boots designed for Enduro and Motocross. They are like wearing leg casts on your feet compared to moccasins and you will be giving up brake and peg control for increased ankle support.

Simple Zener diode will be mounted on a heat sink and shielded from melting anything. Time was when you could buy that fridge rectifier from a local radio shack store for 4 bucks, dating myself.

Multi-meter sucks for reading AC an oscilloscope is the way to go, that said it sure does sound like you have the multi-meter on the wrong settings. Start with the stator output, that is where you should see lots of non-regulated non-rectified dirty voltage coming out, your lights originally use non rectified power with the AC voltage controlled only by a regulator that sends excess voltage to ground (make sure the ground connection is solid and if that is not happening your regulator is fried.) your fan motor is the only thing requiring DC volts so after the thermostat switch you have the full wave bridge rectifier. That rectifier contains 4 diodes and is the part that will most likely fry if your voltage regulation fails. If voltage output from the stator gives wild numbers inspect the stator coil for damage from heat and test the continuity on the coil windings. From the yellow wire output to ground should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms as per the GasGas wiring schematic.

Would love to ride with y'all some time to show you how it works 😎 ... but do you have to keep dropping names of top riders.

You're asking the wrong questions, if you want a catalog of taper bearing seals you go to the same place you buy your bearings and ask for the bearing seal catalog. Bearing seal manufacturers include names like Timken, FAG, SKF and dozens more that you will recognize. Virtually every bearing supplier has listings for bearing seals on spec, you're just asking for the wrong thing when you ask for kits to fit a specific vehicle application. ... taper roller bearings with a seal on one side and only a grease cup on the other side is standard equipment on the majority of car, truck and trailer wheels traveling the road today.

It's just an opinion but when I ride any modern 300cc trials bike that can pull from 0 to maximum usable speed in third gear, I put it in third and leave it there. I've learned to control third gear with the clutch and throttle and that gear range now feels natural in all situations. Better riders apparently have the skills to master 3 or 4 gear ranges, not me, 3rd. with stock sprockets works a treat so I use it faithfully, 4th. for me is only for riding fast trails & riding between sections, ymmv. Highly recommend you try 3rd. a 2021 Beta 300 factory has ample power to pull a light to average weight rider with ease. First gear is great for getting a light weight rider into trouble at the top of a steep climb, I can't remember ever using first gear for anything other then to locate neutral.

If you are weighting the bars too much you are not bending your knees enough.

Sealed taper bearing, good luck with that you would need to sink the bearing deep into the headstock and install a seal above and below the bearings. If your headstock has bearing seals now those too are standard items at the same store. Do you really want somebody to put those 4 items into a kit form and sell it to you at 300% markup?

They don't make bearings just for motorcycles, take it to a bearing supply store. ... if it is a taper bearing you just described a common 32004 taper bearing

It's not so much about putt putt putt and then standing still as it is being able to accelerate over something and recover on the other side gracefully, retaining forward momentum when required and having control in down hills, bumpy terrain and possibly deep mud and water terrain. Add the cement block before you turn out for a competition or you might be over-whelmed by the first rock outcrop that has tape on both sides to make you go over and not around the rock.

You can use your meter on continuity test setting to test your points for resistance and for timing when they close or open. TY175 has 2 stator coils, one dedicated to spark and the other for lights, all coils should have measurable low resistance of just a few ohms. Spark ignition coil will have measurable continuity resistance as well as the spark plug wire lead and cap. The voltage output from the stator ignition coil is non-regulated alternating current in excess of 6 volts and best tested with an oscilloscope.

Check that AC power in excess if 12 volts is coming out of the alternator and if there is good power there, then test for ~12VDC coming out of the rectifier.

You don't need to modify what they already sell. That is one of the parts that were supplied in duplicate and they even sent new pop rivets to change it. It will be slightly louder and less restrictive with the change. ... Honda part number you are looking for is 18338-nn4-g30 "Cap Comp End". Conversion documentation can be found here: http://montesatrials.com.au/store/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/2015_-full-power-Kit_Cota-4RT-260.pdf

No worries Luc The competition parts and instructions were packaged with the 260 4RT' homologation models, it is unlikely those optional components would be included in either the competition only (Repsol) or 4-Ride street versions. Those extra parts when packaged with a new bike in the crate were typically retained by the distributor as part of their pre-delivery setup. Bottom line is we paid extra $ for the dealers to keep things we paid for. Instructions for race conversion were supplement to the provided service manual. Homologation bikes also came with a horn, turn signals, handlebar switches, 2 different size rear sprockets, 2 chains in different lengths to suit the sprocket change, key steering lock, 2 header pipes, 2 heat shields to suit each header, intake and exhaust restrictors, 2 completely different headlights, one small and the other street sized including a speedometer instrument cluster, speed sensor, mirrors, 2 stainless tail pipe pieces, top airbox intake restrictor ... basically everything your 4-Ride came with to make it street legal. There was no MAP change required after the intake and exhaust was altered, only an idle adjustment.

It's as simple as reading the race preparation instructions that came in the crate along with the non-cat header pipe plus the replacement rear tail piece featuring the larger exhaust opening, then using the new pop-rivets also supplied in the crate to put the exhaust and packing back together. If your bike was fitted with restrictors to make it suitable for restricted learner permit use, there will be additional restrictors in the intake and exhaust, also covered in the race preparation instructions. Does this make it illegal for road use, yes of course it does! Same as removing the pollution control devices from your automobile. After you make the race prep changes you let the engine idle long enough for the fan to kick on and the fuel injection sorts itself out. It's that easy.

Putting a seat on a trials bike is like putting an anchor on an airplane, it will cost you lots and buy you nothing. If you put a seat on a trials bike you will ride it the same as you rode the enduro bike and learn nothing about trials riding. Seen this happen many times in the last 2 years with many new trials riders coming off enduro bikes. There is no place for a saddle on a trials bike, it's a stand up machine.

IF your 310 is still stock original, electricity is initially produced by the magneto flywheel magnets passing by a coil and that coil can be tested for continuity, provided the coil has not failed your spark is controlled by breaker points that would be highly suspect if the coil tests good, in close proximity to the breaker points is a condenser which is also a component that is known to fail with age. This all powers the ignition coil, plug wire, cap and spark plug which are all subject to failure although not as likely to fail as the previous noted items.

Strongly advise that in future you keep the tank topped up, you got lucky.

Never 🤔 clutch and throttle control are never independent of one another. Skip all that stationary balance practice, you can do that with a round log and a flat board while you are standing in front of your television. Get yourself a concrete block 8" or 12" is adequate and set that on the ground where you can do full lock figure 8's over it. The object is to pop over the cement block with control, style and with not putting a foot down to balance. Once you master that to the point where you become board with it put the block on a slope and try it again. Once you get board with all that you are ready to go out in the wild and learn to really ride. If you want events near you there is only one way, you host the events, then everybody has to come to you when they want to ride.