lemur

You can get more from just looking at the parts diagrams. Twin map on a carburetor bike is just an ignition retard or advance, not much more it can be.

Pro for the Honda engine is the relative engine parts availability. Fantic is potentially more competitive if you can keep it running. Much depends on terrain and level you plan to ride to. Fantic is a hard sell where I live, ymmv.

I think you are looking at a 1978 or 1979 360 Enduro 👍 sweet bike, I bought a 66M in 1976 but that is the 360VA Motocross version 👍 awesome bike, wish you had an engine for that one, I'd buy one of those in a heartbeat.

If all else fails; Zinc plating is the easiest electroplating that you can do yourself with very little cost or equipment.

GasGas parts manual on bike-parts-gasgas lists the fan for the 2005 TX50 as part BT720003013. and that is the same part number as a KTM and Husqvarna fan, but they say contact them to order because I suspect they are going to tell you the entire stator and magnet need to be replaced as well. The fan runs off DC so there is a small rectifier on there to convert the AC coming off the existing alternator, if I was you I would start by testing the voltage output from your rectifier and then you can source a small muffin fan to suit the voltage and mounting space. Muffin fan is what they were originally called and they are available in a vast range of sizes, muffin fan power requirements start at 5VDC which is USB standard and if your alternator can't power the fan you could add a rechargeable battery to run the fan dead loss and recharge it when you're not riding.

Other than a slight bend in profile and being bolted more rearward on the swing-arm, that side stand looks very close to a stock 4RT side stand.

Yes to that, all the way back to 1970' twin shock bikes I had throttle cable kink issues that became a problem, but I never had to replace a throttle cable on any of my 4RT rides because I wrapped the cable as soon as I bought one. I do the same thing with my TRS bikes now, although the TRS throttle cable has less tendency to kink the shield at the connections and only needs covering on one end of the cable slack adjuster.

I always wrapped that part with the spiral plastic that you use to bundle electric wires together, put it on before the cable is too badly kinked and it works great. Search 'spiral wire wrap'

The VIN bombs the gasgas VIN test, but EC200 would make it an enduro bike manufactured somewhere between 2004 and 2007 Best to start a new thread for this unless you are also wanting to plate it in California where the chances of that are slim to nil.

https://cybermotorcycle.com/marques/montesa/montesa-numbers.htm

Really should have started a new thread for this louiseb, found this: 72.5mm bore was standard for a 250 Cota in 1974 Cota 247 in 1968 had a piston diameter of 72.55 (they actually stated piston diameter and not bore so maybe measure your piston and cylinder bore to see what you have) Marked how; written on there with marker pen or numbers stamped on it permanent like? .475mm sounds like a big piston to cylinder gap for rings to fill, so I'd say you are most likely looking at an over-sized something. Decoding the VIN stamped into the frame should clear up what model year yours is and what might be stock original measurements.

With the spring rate I was running, once I was riding, pegs the seat height was the same as stock but the wheel moves 2 or 3" more overall. lol I can do it cheaper then 30$

Spell check messed one part up; distance between the swing-arm pivot point and the lower shock mount bolt, should be the same as measured from the swing-arm pivot point to the new upper shock mount bolt, so basically the shock won't need to rotate on their mounting brackets very much.

Super rough not to scale mockup on a completely different bike model just to show how it works: 1.25" x .5" by roughly 7 inch long piece of aluminum bar stock cut something like the photo, the top 2 round circles represent threaded holes, the large black circle indicates where a larger threaded hole will be the new top shock mount post or bolt. The yellow tape represents a stainless steel strap or plumbing clamp to prevent the bracket from pivoting on the original shock post when the shock tops out and needs to carry the rear wheel. Top bracket is 1.25" x .75" thick aluminum bar stock about 3 or 4 " long, bar is rounded at the top where the .5" clearance hole is drilled and affixed to the original top shock post. the 2 big black dots represent where you drill countersink clearance holes to solidly connect the 2 aluminum bars together. Next you attach the shock to the lower bar and for a twin shock TY175 or TY250 you are looking at moving the shock 2.75" or to where the distance from the swingers pivot to the lower shock mount is the same as the distance from the lower shock mount to the new shock top mount position. Remove the springs from the shocks and remove the chain guard, move the rear wheel through it's entire travel to make sure the position is correct and nothing binds and that the rear brake does not activate when the wheel is traveling further than before, if the brake does activate or pulses at the lever you might need to loosen off the brake setting or convert the solid brake rod to cable which is way better anyway. For tools you are going to need a bandsaw or hacksaw, drills and taps to cut and thread holes in the aluminum and a couple of cheap stainless pipe clamps from a plumbing store. You will have no problem making it look way better pretty then these 5 minute mockup, if you drill the holes right the two aluminum bars should end up inline with one another.

Might take a while, it's not stored where I expected and I think my only computer copy is on a floppy disc lol I'll post it up here as soon as I can locate.

I designed aluminum brackets to lay the standard TY175 shock forward as much as they could go, brackets could be taken back off to return the frame to stock and the only modification that altered the rest of the bike significantly was that the chain guard needed to be modified to give the shock clearance, otherwise they connected to the existing shock mounts. I ran the springs off a TY250 at the time and that was sufficient for my lightweight, many would need to upgrade the spring rate even more. The modification for my weight and spring rate didn't alter the static ride height much from stock, but the rear wheel drops way further down and improves traction going over big logs and the such. I could share the pattern here if you still have interest.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I figure FIM, CMA and the lot of them are just fancy insurance brokers that happen to keep record of their own sanctioned competition events. Rules of how you play their game are in the interest of spectators and growth of the sport is viewed as increasing viewership. Rules FIM make for the rider are all in the interest of equipment safety & last I read FIM want to become yet another standards organization to make rules that will promote sale of their label. It's no joke how much money that will net them and how much it will impact the cost of riding.

That's the mono bloc brake calliper planned obsolescence feature, key to its success is a really bad anodize job on the parts and that nobody actually makes a tool to fit that screw.

Try just a short length of solder wire melted into what's left of the copper on one end, it will be fragile but at least it will give you something to connect to.

One of my new local area rider friends owns a screen print business, I plan to be using his services wherever possible 👍 bibs show on front and back, plan is to get the background colours and number colours to match the number plate class description in the rule book. Plus I need a bunch of special bibs for officials and minders possibly even checkers. We already have access to one live laps bar code timing system if we want to use it, but might only use that for a Scott Trial event.

try Yamahaty dot com specs are posted there

Contemplating the purchase of rider number bibs and transfer that cost onto the rider entry fee, might be the best solution for my venue, the only riders that won't like the idea are the ones with number plates. Thought was to make different colour bibs for each rider class, that way the checkers will be clear on what line the rider is attempting without even asking.

lol and that's just checking! Wait until you try to build the entire trials competition event from scratch.

Today before a snow storm hit 😎 might be the end of it until we get some melt or freezing rain

What an awesome hobbit size motorcycle 😎 I think my grand kids might need one so I can help them ride it.