lemur

Glaciers were kind to us, terrain here is severe, steep hills, exposed granite and calcite with thick peat topsoil and moss covering, no natural sand or gravel, trees, beaver swamps, small lakes and endless trials sections. When it's wet which is often your errors and fails increase exponentially. Easier to show you 😎

Pennsylvania is close, if you are looking for a place to ride and somebody to ride with in Central Frontenac Ontario I can hook you up. If you hurry I have a 2021 TRS 300 electric start for sale right now, you can start that for sure 😎

You just bought the best exercise machine ever 👍

I had a 2001, model was 315R Cota, beautiful sturdy bike. They had nowhere near the compression of the current model 300's. 315 rear fender in black was the most break resistant ever.

At 120something pounds the only way I could start my 300 when the electric starter went out was to lean it against a tree, it's hard on the grips but it's the only way. Fortunately it starts easy once I get on it with all my might and now the electric start is fixed again. Bikes that are hard to start when you are exhausted takes all the fun out of it. btw: If your Montesa 250 was a 4-stroke it had a decompressor built into the camshaft. Decompressor is easy to add if the cylinder head came with an extra plug hole, which your bike does not have. Cylinder heads are often available in either high or low compression versions with lower compression theoretically being easier to start as well as better suited to lower octane fuels.

OMG there is your problem right there, 1st. gear is near useless for a light weight rider, gear up and keep the idle set on the high side. Embrace the power that engine has down low and set the carb lean enough to run at low speed and not rich out.

You running in second gear? Cog it up to third, steady the throttle and abuse the clutch, that will calm down the power delivery.

3rd. gear is perfect for a 300 with high compression 👍 I use 3rd. so much I could remove the rest of the gears and never miss them. 3rd. takes me from zero to whatever I could possibly need and I'm so accustom to the way the throttle and clutch engages in 3rd. it actually messes me up to gear down.

Bike is too new to have starting problems, I'd be making a trip back to the dealer to sort out the start issues while they still have some responsibility. The manual calls for 98 octane fuel, I'd be concerned running 90 octane with 67:1 oil mixed, your resulting octane rating will be even lower yet as the premix oil lowers the octane. Myself I mix race fuel with pump gas to achieve a fuel octane rating that is very close to the manuals recommendation. You aren't bring the engine up on TDC to start, you actually just want it to come up on compression. Laying the bike on the side has no logic on a carburetor equipped engine, all that will do is mess up the fuel level in the float bowl.

If you are buying it to ride and become a better rider buy a good running modern bike. If you are buying an old Montesa because you once rode one that's a completely different thing. ... oh and Hi Lee 😎 I too have an old Montesa that needs parts

People do teach & help other riders and even provide riding areas for free. Observed Trials competition events are where you will meet those people.

Fan doesn't have a 'relay' (magnetic activated switch for controlling high power to something like a starter motor) only a temperature controlled switch on the radiator. He's still dead in the water if there is no regulated ~12 volts DC power to supply the fan. No AC power coming out of the engine is an alternator problem inside the engine.

If I read you correctly; your clutch sticks on cold startup and needs to be broken free before you have clutch action. That is a function of your clutch plates and the lubricant you selected, not so much a 2-stroke engine operating temperature thing as your transmission oil viscosity is regulated by the environment. example: if you are riding in sub-zero temperature your transmission oil might never get hot. ... going to guess you are using a multi-grade engine oil in your transmission. I rarely to never have a clutch stick issue running ISO 46 UDT hydraulic fluid, even in sub-zero weather. For safety sake, you should always be prepared for the clutch to stick initially by off-weighting the rear tire and applying the front or rear brake when you first engage the gear. It should break free almost immediately.

They already tried that, now looking for 12 volts DC output for the fan and that ain't happening without a working alternator, regulator and rectifier circuit.

Can you take photos of what you are working with? might help.

Test the power output from the wires coming out of the engine. The alternator produces alternating current, set the meter on AC and the voltage to handle about 20 volts if it has a setting. Touch your negative probe to the engine for a good ground and use the red probe to test output from a white or yellow wire or wires exiting the engine, need to do that when it's running. Should be able to stick the probe into the connector plug if it still has one.

Do you have roughly 12 volts DC at the fan thermostat input? If not check the rectifier/regulator for AC input and DC output. ... I assume you have a multi-meter or improvised test light

It's a good indication yes, unless you need additional power for lights or batteries. Very encouraging, that's where the fan comes in because there can be and are often separate coils dedicated for that.

Many thanks and congratulations on hosting a terrific Trials event April 👍 a little rain shower mid day boosted scores but I think everybody had as great time as I did 🏅. I didn't take many photos because I was busy riding, did get this one:

Does the tip over sensor appear damaged? It's located back there close to the rear fender and tire, plus it can definitely stop the engine from running.

Good news for anybody that already rides one. It's another year away from becoming parts obsolete.

I don't have a problem with any of them, but the PWK28 jetting specs for the TRS are easy to find online and will put you in the right ballpark for ordering parts.

The fan speeds up when the engine does, just give the fan blades a spin with your finger and if it doesn't make the noise that's not it.

Make sure that noise is not just your fan. The bearings behind the magneto are your crankshaft bearings, it won't be that or she wouldn't run. If it runs good, keep searching for something simple.

That's easy; No, nobody sells specialized competition trials motorcycle parts 'cheap', online or otherwise, all the trials stuff is outrageous expensive with shipping, taxes and material costs escalating out of control. To get motorcycle parts out of a factory 'cheap' somebody would need to be thieving them.