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I have great luck with UDT hydraulic oil in any combined wet clutch and gearbox, at about 8$ Canadian per litre purchased in quantity (19 litre pail) it's a fraction of the cost and you can change it frequently. Available at any farm tractor or excavator dealer, I'm using Kubota branded (ISO 46) at the moment, previously have used New Holland Ambra or John Deere products with similar results, never had to replace a clutch and the clutch is easy to break free after sitting even in sub zero temps.
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Beta parts are expensive enough, the castings, metals and plastics are not as good as some, my riding partner trashes them regularly but he likes the way they perform.
Oh, and everything is on the wrong side 🤔 which for me makes it near impossible to start.
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Sweet little bike 😎 needle bearings are something you can easy source if you have all the required dimensions, bushings are easy to make. Determine what size you need and should be easy.
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By the way, water in your oil usually shows as being milky or opaque, black particles generally indicate burning oil in the clutch aka somebody was slipping the clutch lots under high revs. You can slip the clutch lots but keep the revs down or it burns the oil between the plates.
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Carnage
Looks like you are going to learn how to pull one completely apart, time to study up the service manual and consider it a challenge to learn all about your motorcycle.
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Have not experience it myself but service manuals indicate spark plug caps and wires as being something you should suspect or replace fairly frequently. Spark plugs are cheap and available because they are the same ones commonly used in chainsaws, I'd change it again just incase you bought a bad one (it happens)
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Mine is the more complex electric start model, way more hours then yours and any time it acted up it was the kill switch (most often) spark plug (less often) or I did a poor job of servicing the air filter. Your engine should not be loading up at low revs unless you fail to use the recommended 98 fuel octane @ 1%
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I'd go with the thin one for the clutch, gear oil is generally thicker. Not a big fan of ATF in anything other than an Automatic Transmission myself but others seem to like it. You can search for a conversion chart that shows the relative viscosity from ISO SAE & AGMA oils. just google "ISO SAE conversion" Images and it will be the first hit.
😎 Have a good ride if you haven't already left, cold and pouring rain here but I still might go for a ride
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That's why you drill a whole bunch of holes through your brand new very expensive tire mousse. aka 'Drilled mousse'
... mousse is a good replacement for an inner tube if you are studding a front tire with sheet metal screws or pointed thread tire studs and not just auger thread grip-studs. Auger thread studs don't puncture tubes unless you crank them in too deep.
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You can make a soft mousse even softer and lighter by drilling a whole bunch of holes through it, that's what the hard enduro guys do here. We made up a tool that cuts 1" diameter core samples through the rubber real easy. Then you lube up the inside of the tire with shortening because we are too cheap to buy the proper stuff.
For fixing an inner tube I found fish glue works better then slime, but you can't put in in the tire in advance and just as with slime it won't fix a ripped off valve stem but it plugs holes way better then slime which never hardens, fish glue is water soluble so can be reactivated with a little water, and it's cheap.
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I consider my trials bike to be my personal mobility device because I can ride better then I can walk. If it's electric powered I want to be allowed to ride it anywhere 😆 now I just need to convince the rest of the world.
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Evaporation 🤓 I dropped a whole motorcycle in the lake once and evaporation eventually worked.
Clutch plates absorb water and swell; pull the clutch friction plates and dry them in the sun, then check them for flatness and thickness to determine if they need replacement. The rubberized cork friction plates are the only part in the transmission that can absorb water, everything else will just rust.
... plan on doing oil changes more frequently for a while.
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Isn't that the same thing as a Montesa Cota 200 kickstart spring? If it is try 'in Motion Trials'
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Hook up with the ATAQ they are great people to ride with and you will make all the dealer contacts you need.
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We are all going to drive electric powered vehicles to save the planet? 🤔 Can't see it happening that way, too many wars in the works, the planet is doomed unless you can first eliminate human conflict.
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Check the fork slide bushings too, worn slide bushings cause fork oil seals to fail. The seals just hold the oil in but the slide bushings are what make the stanchion tubes track in the centre of the lower fork leg. Also very high probability that your wheel bearings are done, wheel bearings don't last long and movement from wear in the wheel bearing will mess with your brakes and suspension badly.
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I wasn't sure but searched and found them listed as replacement parts, he will know once he pulls the flywheel.
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Lol now there's a title that you won't see every day, check out my newest motorcycle 😎
I think it's going to be wicked once I fix it all up, build an exhaust from scratch and stud the tires 😎
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Great video of Gn'Arden Hard Enduro champion Lanthier blasting the hero line in Donnybrook to take the lead and yesterdays event 😎
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Right behind that flywheel that spins with the crankshaft, you're almost there.
The big nut in the middle needs to be removed and then the next thing you will need is a puller to remove the flywheel because it is on a taper shaft with a keyway, the flywheel carries the magnets that make the power when they pass by the stator coils. Breaker points ignition is also behind that flywheel and a small condenser/capacitor too.
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Nice! 👍 but you are still not shopping for a Trials bike, the FE250 is an Enduro bike and TRF is a Trail Riders Fellowship. Husky FE is what we call a 'Big bike' because it's a hundred pounds heavier than a modern Trials bike.
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If you road trip to Land O'Lakes region in Ontario you can ride with me 👍 & we might see a Moose, bring your GasGas not a gun.
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Couple of our top riders are riding GasGas sponsored bikes here, they don't ride the old ones so yep time will tell, if it can be broken I'll get to see it, probably have to collect up the broken pieces too. Trials bikes are nothing compared to Enduro bikes for parts being broken, those things go through parts and tires like crazy, Trials bikes are amazing at surviving crashes and far less dangerous to be on or around.
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We ride 11 months of the year here with the aid of studded tires, weekdays and weekends nobody pays to ride with me and I have ~400 acres of world class riding area, all guests sign a waiver. YMMV depends on where you live. Are there many other places like my place, no absolutely not, that's why I do it. Starts with having the land and suitable terrain, winter riding is weather dependent on the gods and requires a heated garage to launch from.
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If you ride hard enduro, you won't have a problem riding any modern trials bike over the same or more difficult terrain, true hard enduro is a mix of junior to intermediate level trials terrain. I regularly host both observed trials events and hard enduro races.
One thing I do see is that enduro riders that ride their trials bike like an enduro bike don't learn much about trials riding, you need to actually ride trials style to learn trials technique.
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