lemur

Fanny pack 👍 first aid kit, smart phone, lighter, sewing kit, small tire pump, low pressure gauge, drinks, candies, zip ties and assorted small wrenches. Wear it off to one side if you are fearful of landing on the phone. Anything attached to your body does not make the bike heavier. Keys, cash and anything I don't need out in the woods gets locked in the truck or left at home. Anything that needs to be water-proofed goes into a plastic bag. Swiss Army knife is always on my belt and that covers a blade, scissors, file, screw drivers, pen, tweezers, tooth-pick, corkscrew and a wood saw blade, it also has an awl that is great for drilling holes through plastic so you can field repair Beta fenders. ... if you wanted to carry all that stuff in yer pockets you'd need to be wearing cargo pants, if you wanted to strap it to the bike it would make your bike weigh an additional 1 or 2 pounds 😆 lot of people pay big bucks on titanium bits just to reduce their motorcycles weight by 1 or 2 pounds.

I think that after I acid tested the finish to make sure it is Chrome and not Zinc I would measure the fork tube diameter very accurately somewhere that the tube has experienced zero wear or corrosion, then I would make the entire tube that same size.

Because in a rain event the run-up gets trashed to the point where nobody can do the test. Been there, built that trial too. Any forest based trial that was visited by glaciers might be the same as here, riders from B.C. have said they feel right at home here. I've been to an awful lot of events that were flat to say the least, what makes for a good trial event is somewhere you can ride all of the terrain and it is endless sections one right close to the next part. Plus it needs to be owned by somebody willing to have people ride motorcycles all over it, Not too many places like here, if there was I wouldn't be doing it I'd be going there to ride.

"terrain like this all over the world". That's not what the people who travel to ride here say, and yes the 2 slopes you pointed out are tests that benefit from a run-up particularly in a rain event like that one was.

So ya'll like to have a short tight turn and only one line up the hardest most technical part of the section, lol you should ride some Quebec trials. Here's some video of my sections, seeing is probably the best way to explain it.

Under the saddle/fender, they have a TwinAir oiled foam air filter with a small piece of plastic bolted immediately over the filter element so water doesn't drop down directly on the filter, the air box has a drain in the bottom with a one way flap valve to let water out, but sometimes that gets plugged with mud so you need to clean the air box occasionally. TRS seem to do well in water crossings, way better than some brands. On some other makes the rear wheel funnels water into the air intake and the filter fills with water quickly. TRS air box has a considerable volume to fill before the filter becomes submerged.

Sounds like your sections are not set up anywhere Near the way I set out a trial. When I set out gates there is generally an obvious continuous flow from the start to the exit. I generally put the hardest most spectacular part right at the section entrance so that riders have a good choice of lines to approach the biggest challenge. I make the lines wide enough that riders have options and that helps if the weather degrades before or during the event. Never seen anyone refused the opportunity to finish riding through a section after taking a 5 unless they were simply holding up a line of other riders and didn't stand a chance of following through. I'm fortunate to have 2 classes indicated on my competition license, I can compete as Intermediate if I'm feeling very olympic, or I can ride down to the Junior line and compete in Grand Veteran class. We don't have time limits in the sections for the simple reason we don't have the manpower to support timers, we are lucky just to get checkers. Riding any line you want to ride non-competitively is considered Clubman class and results are basically not tabulated. That would include riders riding down a line due to recent injury. Gate trials as you described where you earn points for negotiating specific gates, we haven't even tried that yet. It would likely be too much for our checkers to handle. Time limits within a section is not an issue if the sections are designed well and with the intent to be ridden non-stop, if nobody can finish a section within 90 seconds or so then clearly the section is too long. Three difficult parts in a section is usually sufficient, if you put six hard parts in a section then time in the section is going to become a problem. If one or more riders go clean all day I consider that to be a fail in setting out the sections or the riders are riding down a line, I like to get some points from everyone and points total between the classes should be relatively balanced, there should not be a class where everybody has a high score or again that was a fail in section setup. I build a Lot of trials events and they are generally well received. lol and it sounds like we don't charge enough for entry fee, most of our events only cost about 25$ to enter.

Love the Michelin X Lite single ply tires before they became crazy expensive, when they were first introduced here they were cheaper then the 2 ply version, now they are near 300$ each with tax. Lately I've been buying Dunlop 2 ply because they are nearly half the price of the X-lite and last a little longer, I run the Dunlop rear at very low pressure ~4psi and they perform good for my light weight. Haven't found any tire yet that can withstand double digit minus temperatures without cracking or pealing off the knobs in winter but I imagine not everybody has that problem 😆 Back in the day Pirelli radial was the best tire for the TY bikes, but it made a difference what country of origin was stamped on the tire, made in Spain tires were great and the identical model tire stamped made in USA was terrible by comparison, and yes I too had to trim the rubber on the bead or they wouldn't seat on the tube type rim correctly. When first introduced the Pirelli radial was available in either tube or tubeless type, then the tube type version became unavailable. Agree it is very cool to be able to compare notes with riders from the other side of the planet 👍

I have great luck with UDT hydraulic oil in any combined wet clutch and gearbox, at about 8$ Canadian per litre purchased in quantity (19 litre pail) it's a fraction of the cost and you can change it frequently. Available at any farm tractor or excavator dealer, I'm using Kubota branded (ISO 46) at the moment, previously have used New Holland Ambra or John Deere products with similar results, never had to replace a clutch and the clutch is easy to break free after sitting even in sub zero temps.

Beta parts are expensive enough, the castings, metals and plastics are not as good as some, my riding partner trashes them regularly but he likes the way they perform. Oh, and everything is on the wrong side 🤔 which for me makes it near impossible to start.

Sweet little bike 😎 needle bearings are something you can easy source if you have all the required dimensions, bushings are easy to make. Determine what size you need and should be easy.

By the way, water in your oil usually shows as being milky or opaque, black particles generally indicate burning oil in the clutch aka somebody was slipping the clutch lots under high revs. You can slip the clutch lots but keep the revs down or it burns the oil between the plates.

Carnage Looks like you are going to learn how to pull one completely apart, time to study up the service manual and consider it a challenge to learn all about your motorcycle.

Have not experience it myself but service manuals indicate spark plug caps and wires as being something you should suspect or replace fairly frequently. Spark plugs are cheap and available because they are the same ones commonly used in chainsaws, I'd change it again just incase you bought a bad one (it happens)

Mine is the more complex electric start model, way more hours then yours and any time it acted up it was the kill switch (most often) spark plug (less often) or I did a poor job of servicing the air filter. Your engine should not be loading up at low revs unless you fail to use the recommended 98 fuel octane @ 1%

I'd go with the thin one for the clutch, gear oil is generally thicker. Not a big fan of ATF in anything other than an Automatic Transmission myself but others seem to like it. You can search for a conversion chart that shows the relative viscosity from ISO SAE & AGMA oils. just google "ISO SAE conversion" Images and it will be the first hit. 😎 Have a good ride if you haven't already left, cold and pouring rain here but I still might go for a ride

That's why you drill a whole bunch of holes through your brand new very expensive tire mousse. aka 'Drilled mousse' ... mousse is a good replacement for an inner tube if you are studding a front tire with sheet metal screws or pointed thread tire studs and not just auger thread grip-studs. Auger thread studs don't puncture tubes unless you crank them in too deep.

You can make a soft mousse even softer and lighter by drilling a whole bunch of holes through it, that's what the hard enduro guys do here. We made up a tool that cuts 1" diameter core samples through the rubber real easy. Then you lube up the inside of the tire with shortening because we are too cheap to buy the proper stuff. For fixing an inner tube I found fish glue works better then slime, but you can't put in in the tire in advance and just as with slime it won't fix a ripped off valve stem but it plugs holes way better then slime which never hardens, fish glue is water soluble so can be reactivated with a little water, and it's cheap.

I consider my trials bike to be my personal mobility device because I can ride better then I can walk. If it's electric powered I want to be allowed to ride it anywhere 😆 now I just need to convince the rest of the world.

Evaporation 🤓 I dropped a whole motorcycle in the lake once and evaporation eventually worked. Clutch plates absorb water and swell; pull the clutch friction plates and dry them in the sun, then check them for flatness and thickness to determine if they need replacement. The rubberized cork friction plates are the only part in the transmission that can absorb water, everything else will just rust. ... plan on doing oil changes more frequently for a while.

Isn't that the same thing as a Montesa Cota 200 kickstart spring? If it is try 'in Motion Trials'

Hook up with the ATAQ they are great people to ride with and you will make all the dealer contacts you need.

We are all going to drive electric powered vehicles to save the planet? 🤔 Can't see it happening that way, too many wars in the works, the planet is doomed unless you can first eliminate human conflict.

Check the fork slide bushings too, worn slide bushings cause fork oil seals to fail. The seals just hold the oil in but the slide bushings are what make the stanchion tubes track in the centre of the lower fork leg. Also very high probability that your wheel bearings are done, wheel bearings don't last long and movement from wear in the wheel bearing will mess with your brakes and suspension badly.

I wasn't sure but searched and found them listed as replacement parts, he will know once he pulls the flywheel.