lemur

Thank you for the confirmation that front forks are one of the most over-looked maintenance items on the average motorcycle.

If your suggestion is that 6 fork oil changes in 43 years is good, you are offering very bad advice.

Kickstart is on the left side, that will greatly reduce your options for replacement.

Jitsie sells the cheapest complete replacement dog bone assembly, Honda wanted about 30% more $ last time I bought one.

Easy, drive them out with a hammer and a socket wrench. or press them out with a vise and two sockets. Two bearings in each end of the dog bone for a total of 4 bearings plus 4 seals.

Ignition Distributor 🤔 does not exist unless you have multiple cylinders, single cylinder engine has a single ignition pickup coil to replace the single breaker points (aka trigger coil)

Rebuild the old one with drawn cup needle bearings and seals sourced from a local bearing supply store, the linkage is garbage if the hole for the bearing gets smashed out of round. The stock bash plate does a poor job of protecting the linkage.

Fork oil changes; not nearly enough, twice a year isn't really sufficient, front forks are one of the most over-looked maintenance items on the average motorcycle. Forks have no filtration and any contamination in the fork oil becomes grinding compound that will eventually destroy your lower fork legs.

Transmission oil; when I think of it, when the clutch starts to make strange noises, after I've been doing a lot of riding through deep water, or if the bike has been subjected to a lot of severe temperature changes that would promote condensation. Transmissions only hold half a litre and don't even need a filter change so more frequent the better. The old oil is goods for chain oil on the bikes or chain saws. ... 10 hours would have me changing the oil ever week & that ain't happening, I ride closer to ~30 hours weekly. Cost is not crazy because I run all season excavator oil that I buy in 19 litre pails.

Motorcycle scrap yard that has small displacement euro bikes would be the best source for replacement. You can find an example wiring diagram for the internals of the CDI module if you google up "motoplat CDI wiring diagram" images.

Is easy: The silver box is the regulator and the red box is the rectifier, both of those relate to powering your fan which required DC voltage. The fan will also have a thermostat switch so the fan only turns on when it gets hot. Your ignition parts consist of an alternator which produces AC energy to power everything plus a sensor to know where the piston is, both those items are inside the engine casings, attached to the CDI black box that initiates an electric charge to the ignition coil which intensifies the voltage from the CDI box so that it can make the plug spark 🤓 Good start would be clean and reconnect all the connections to everything including the ground wire which you can ohm meter test, then try for spark again. If it comes to meter testing I would always start at the source of the power which is the alternator output, service manuals will tell you how. The coils and ignition wires can be ohm meter tested but the CDI box would need to be swapped out with a known good one to know for sure if you need a new CDI box.

Good friend was running loops of our hard enduro course today in practice for riding next weekend in the Scott 😎 I had to take every shortcut possible just to keep up, he was setting lap times comparable to the enduro bikes and it was raining lol so he thought it was perfect practice. Safe journey and best luck to all attending the race 👍

Sounds like a blast to ride if you can make it light enough and from what I've seen and ridden that means using a lot of non period parts, like wheels suspension and brakes, with period correct everything it starts to sound like too scary a ride for me. Those things weighed a ton and had brakes like leather.

Plastics Huge difference between makes in both durability and replacement cost, especially if you want it with stickers. add: Then there is ISSO which is a manufacturing process specification that allows companies like Honda to manufacture 4RT engines anywhere in the world that facilities exist.

Seems that there is sufficient radial movement in your low pressure radial tire to rip the valve stem out of your bias tire inner tubes without the tire bead sliding on the rim. When they run a mousse in an enduro bike tire they lubricate the mousse so it slides inside the tire without damage, maybe you can similarly lubricate your inner tube so it isn't damaged by the tire movement in the radial direction.

Super nice competitive motorcycle, one finger brake, one finger clutch, lively suspension, very low centre of gravity and plenty of power on tap. They eat a fair amount of fuel but very little oil, as with any fuel injected engine keep the fuel level high in the tank for better cooling of the expensive fuel pump. The rad fan makes enough noise to scare bears away 😎

Then you will need to practice lots and lots until you get good at it 👍 there is no down side if you don't mind crashing once in a while.

Totally depends on how good your brake, clutch and throttle control is. At only 150 pounds and covered largely in plastic a modern trials bike is a very good beginner motorcycle, just as long as you stay in control of it and all of them have the potential to get out of hand if you don't retain control over the brakes, clutch and throttle at all times.

Same companies that manufacture and sell bearings, prime example being SKF and resellers of SKF products. I always source bearings and seals from the nearest bearing supply specialty store rather than order the same item via a motorcycle part number. It saves money and time. Many of the seals and bearings commonly used in motorcycles are also found in marine engines, farm equipment and industrial material handling like conveyor belts. Take the worn parts into a bearing supply store and they can usually offer replacements on spec.

No, separate areas within the engine; a 2-stroke engine crankcase is used for moving fuel and air into the combustion chamber from the carburetor or throttle body via a process referred to as scavenging. If raw fuel accumulates in the crankcase you can remove the spark plug and let it evaporate or in lets say the worst case scenario that you dropped your bike in the lake, then you would remove the spark plug and turn the motorcycle completely upside down to make the water come out of the crankcase.

In Canada there is no such thing as an FIM or a CMA official so the rules are up to the event organizer to enforce, which doesn't happen because we never have the support to do enforcement, what we do have is the 'I'm not your mommy waiver form' Half helmet would likely draw considerable peer pressure in the form of other riders asking 'what's that thing on your head, are you nuts?'

My 360VA was an air cooled iron liner engine not unlike the Bultaco in most ways except it didn't have a chain primary drive. MC-1 was one of the first full synthetic oils, it's too thick to even run in 2-stroke oil injector systems, at 50:1 you are going to have a blue contrail and black mung oozing out the lowest part of that Alpina muffler, then you will know there is too much oil in the premix because it won't all be getting burned up inside the combustion chamber.

It's a 1970's 2-stroke Spanish bike and in the 1970's when I rode my Montesa Cappra 360VA the oil I used was Belray MC-1 at 80:1 mixed with the highest octane pump fuel I could buy at the time which was the equivalent of todays leaded race fuel. Cappra was fitted with a single dykes ring piston and I never had a piston or ring problem for the entire life of the bike. MC-1 was rated for up to 80:1 and provided the closest thing to a no smoke 2-stroke as you could get. The product did have a shelf life and when it turned from blue to brown in colour that meant you should discard it or risk gumming up your piston and ring. Found that out by trying to use up some old fuel/oil mix in a chainsaw which was a bad idea. I go by the leanest recommendation written on the product packaging, although I see more and more they don't even print the recommendations on full synthetic oils.

I am very fortunate to have the opportunity to minder and catch for a lot of riders at all levels on a regular basis and that experience has helped my own riding. Riding ice trails for most of the winter months on studded tires has also helped immensely, a dab on ice is equal to a crash so it's a strong incentive to keep your feet on the pegs.

Page 40 of the service manual that you can download free from betausa 2.7mm for the inside 4 plates, 3mm for the 2 cork plates on the outside of the clutch pack as per the parts diagram (corks install order is -> fat, thin, thin, thin, thin, fat)