lemur

Yes to that, all the way back to 1970' twin shock bikes I had throttle cable kink issues that became a problem, but I never had to replace a throttle cable on any of my 4RT rides because I wrapped the cable as soon as I bought one. I do the same thing with my TRS bikes now, although the TRS throttle cable has less tendency to kink the shield at the connections and only needs covering on one end of the cable slack adjuster.

I always wrapped that part with the spiral plastic that you use to bundle electric wires together, put it on before the cable is too badly kinked and it works great. Search 'spiral wire wrap'

The VIN bombs the gasgas VIN test, but EC200 would make it an enduro bike manufactured somewhere between 2004 and 2007 Best to start a new thread for this unless you are also wanting to plate it in California where the chances of that are slim to nil.

https://cybermotorcycle.com/marques/montesa/montesa-numbers.htm

Really should have started a new thread for this louiseb, found this: 72.5mm bore was standard for a 250 Cota in 1974 Cota 247 in 1968 had a piston diameter of 72.55 (they actually stated piston diameter and not bore so maybe measure your piston and cylinder bore to see what you have) Marked how; written on there with marker pen or numbers stamped on it permanent like? .475mm sounds like a big piston to cylinder gap for rings to fill, so I'd say you are most likely looking at an over-sized something. Decoding the VIN stamped into the frame should clear up what model year yours is and what might be stock original measurements.

With the spring rate I was running, once I was riding, pegs the seat height was the same as stock but the wheel moves 2 or 3" more overall. lol I can do it cheaper then 30$

Spell check messed one part up; distance between the swing-arm pivot point and the lower shock mount bolt, should be the same as measured from the swing-arm pivot point to the new upper shock mount bolt, so basically the shock won't need to rotate on their mounting brackets very much.

Super rough not to scale mockup on a completely different bike model just to show how it works: 1.25" x .5" by roughly 7 inch long piece of aluminum bar stock cut something like the photo, the top 2 round circles represent threaded holes, the large black circle indicates where a larger threaded hole will be the new top shock mount post or bolt. The yellow tape represents a stainless steel strap or plumbing clamp to prevent the bracket from pivoting on the original shock post when the shock tops out and needs to carry the rear wheel. Top bracket is 1.25" x .75" thick aluminum bar stock about 3 or 4 " long, bar is rounded at the top where the .5" clearance hole is drilled and affixed to the original top shock post. the 2 big black dots represent where you drill countersink clearance holes to solidly connect the 2 aluminum bars together. Next you attach the shock to the lower bar and for a twin shock TY175 or TY250 you are looking at moving the shock 2.75" or to where the distance from the swingers pivot to the lower shock mount is the same as the distance from the lower shock mount to the new shock top mount position. Remove the springs from the shocks and remove the chain guard, move the rear wheel through it's entire travel to make sure the position is correct and nothing binds and that the rear brake does not activate when the wheel is traveling further than before, if the brake does activate or pulses at the lever you might need to loosen off the brake setting or convert the solid brake rod to cable which is way better anyway. For tools you are going to need a bandsaw or hacksaw, drills and taps to cut and thread holes in the aluminum and a couple of cheap stainless pipe clamps from a plumbing store. You will have no problem making it look way better pretty then these 5 minute mockup, if you drill the holes right the two aluminum bars should end up inline with one another.

Might take a while, it's not stored where I expected and I think my only computer copy is on a floppy disc lol I'll post it up here as soon as I can locate.

I designed aluminum brackets to lay the standard TY175 shock forward as much as they could go, brackets could be taken back off to return the frame to stock and the only modification that altered the rest of the bike significantly was that the chain guard needed to be modified to give the shock clearance, otherwise they connected to the existing shock mounts. I ran the springs off a TY250 at the time and that was sufficient for my lightweight, many would need to upgrade the spring rate even more. The modification for my weight and spring rate didn't alter the static ride height much from stock, but the rear wheel drops way further down and improves traction going over big logs and the such. I could share the pattern here if you still have interest.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I figure FIM, CMA and the lot of them are just fancy insurance brokers that happen to keep record of their own sanctioned competition events. Rules of how you play their game are in the interest of spectators and growth of the sport is viewed as increasing viewership. Rules FIM make for the rider are all in the interest of equipment safety & last I read FIM want to become yet another standards organization to make rules that will promote sale of their label. It's no joke how much money that will net them and how much it will impact the cost of riding.

That's the mono bloc brake calliper planned obsolescence feature, key to its success is a really bad anodize job on the parts and that nobody actually makes a tool to fit that screw.

Try just a short length of solder wire melted into what's left of the copper on one end, it will be fragile but at least it will give you something to connect to.

One of my new local area rider friends owns a screen print business, I plan to be using his services wherever possible 👍 bibs show on front and back, plan is to get the background colours and number colours to match the number plate class description in the rule book. Plus I need a bunch of special bibs for officials and minders possibly even checkers. We already have access to one live laps bar code timing system if we want to use it, but might only use that for a Scott Trial event.

try Yamahaty dot com specs are posted there

Contemplating the purchase of rider number bibs and transfer that cost onto the rider entry fee, might be the best solution for my venue, the only riders that won't like the idea are the ones with number plates. Thought was to make different colour bibs for each rider class, that way the checkers will be clear on what line the rider is attempting without even asking.

lol and that's just checking! Wait until you try to build the entire trials competition event from scratch.

Today before a snow storm hit 😎 might be the end of it until we get some melt or freezing rain

What an awesome hobbit size motorcycle 😎 I think my grand kids might need one so I can help them ride it.

Note that user hasn't logged in for the past 16 years Modifications to make a cable operated clutch work lighter are not model specific, everybody does the same thing, replace the cable because nothing works as good as a new cable, extend the length of the lever that actuates the clutch because that is how leverage works, reducing the number or strength of the springs that hold the clutch plates together because then you are not working against as strong of a force, but increasing the likelihood of clutch slippage under load. Lastly replace the cable with hydraulics because hydraulics perform amazing compared to any cable. If your clutch cable is not new, replacing the cable is the cheapest and best option for lightening the clutch pull force and minimizing the travel distance at the lever.

They don't appear to be very good with providing detailed technical documentation, do they. I always start at the source which is the alternator windings, you can meter test the alternator for resistance to confirm none of the coils is fried, resistance in the alternator coils will be very low and in the range of an ohm or two. Next is the regulator and rectifier which can be meter or oscilloscope tested for electric output only, the alternator needs to be outputting AC power on all leads to test the regulator output. Rectified power is only used on accessories like the fan and lights, has little to do with spark at the plug. The ignition has a trigger or pickup coil to initiate a spark and that can be meter tested for resistance. CDI can be tested using a second bike and swapping the parts to see if the problem goes to the other bike, virtually impossible to meter test much in the CDI unit, it's basically a power amplifier. Ignition coil, wire lead and plug cap can be meter tested for resistance in the windings or wires, the incoming side of the coil will have a lower resistance than the outgoing side and no continuity on either side of the coil means the coil is fried. Temperature sensors are easy to test and are covered in the documentation. Temp sensor is just a switch that goes from zero continuity to full continuity when the probe is heated. If you can't find the specs for your bike refer to a better manual that has a virtually identical wiring scheme as most 2-T trials bikes are the same when it comes to basic electrics. Biggest difference will be the models that are fuel injected because Fi models will have additional sensors, possibly a battery or large capacitor, plus a fuel pump that runs off DC electric.

To determine the bearing size measure the bearing in mm and select the correct type; deep grove roller bearing for wheels or needle bearing for swing arm or taper bearing for steering head. Walk into your most local bearing supply store or farm tractor type dealer with an old bearing and it is rarely a problem to source one. Very few motorcycles use something really special in the chassis.

Best flush it out with fresh brake fluid. Brake fluid goes bad by taking on water, water freezes and boils, very bad for making ice or steam in the brake fluid which makes your brakes act badly.

Starting in 1976 I rode a Montesa 360VA (air-cooled 2-stroke with a single ring piston and honed steel barrel) running Bel ray MC-1 oil at the ratio of 80:1 as written on the bottle, never had an oil related problem on that machine. The only time I did have a pre-mix oil problem was when I attempted to use some MC-1 that was so far beyond its shelf life it had turned brown instead of blue. Using the discoloured oil resulted in gummed up and stuck piston rings on a chainsaw, but it didn't kill the saw, I was able to clean it up, reassembled it and it ran fine for a few more years. I've used Amsoil 100:1 Saber at 1% pre-mix in chainsaws, snowmobiles and motorcycles for decades with no problem just as long as the oil and fuel was good to begin with and that includes machines that would normally call for 32:1 using oil that has 32:1 written right on the bottle. I don't think an oil manufacturer would risk recommending an oil ratio that does not work, so I tend to go by what is written on the bottle. I'm also seeing more and more synthetic oils that have no mix ratio printed on the bottle which is concerning because I think they are just trying to avoid liability and make everything the consumers fault. I tend to not buy that oil if there is an option and there usually is. Note: Saber 100:1 2-stroke oil is literally too concentrated to run in oil injected machines at the normal oil injection ratios, that's why Amsoil makes Interceptor which is virtually the same oil except rated for 50:1 If the oil says it is good for oil injection systems it won't be suited to 1% lean pre-mix. If the oil says it is good for oil injection systems on the bottle then stay with the ratio recommended in your service manual. Why do you want to run less oil in a pre-mix <- because adding oil to the fuel lowers the fuel octane and lean oil ratios will not lower the octane as much, plus it is less likely to deposit unburnt oil residue through your exhaust system. If your exhaust system is constantly leaking black mung from every seam and clogging up your exhaust packing with raw oil then you are using too much oil in the pre-mix, time to change brands and find something that works.

@iank have you changed the oil to inspect the drain plug magnet and used oil for signs of broken engine bits? Should be doing that regularly plus on the first sign of a transmission/clutch problem.