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Giant teenagers have zero problem getting traction & they can really make a dab count because they can pick the bike up by the grips and throw it some distance if required 😐
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Another giant teenager 😎 run the rear tire almost flat and the front soft enough that you only occasionally feel the rim, don't hesitate to rev it up lots, 4RT love lots of engine revs and just keeps pulling up to peak revs, fuel injection fires as reliable as the spark plug, never misses a beat, the 300rr has more power for carrying 3rd gear, the 260 needs to be rung harder to generate the same oomf and feels more at home in 2nd gear. 4RT runs reasonable well on straight pump fuel but pulls a little stronger in down low rpm if you run upgraded fuel. They flame out at around 800rpm or lower because there is not enough electricity to run the fuel pump that low. The bike rewards a steady throttle hand, you should resist the urge to 'blip' the 4-stroke engine as you would a 2-stroke, all that does is mess it up and you will never need to rev it up to clean out the engine just before a big hit, it's not necessary.
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I'm sure there will be by this time next year, the name of the rider that I was extremely impressed with is Justin Brazeau, an accomplished Pro class MX and Hard Enduro rider.
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4RT has a super broad power band, the fuel injection is what makes the engine perform so well. Montesa suspension feels more settled compared to TRS, GasGas and Beta that feel more lively. Montesa is great for long hill climbs and winter riding, great for deep water crossings and deep mud sections. Rear suspension dog bone requires more service than some because it is exposed to damage. Frame and swingarm is very durable in a crash, rear fender is expensive but way more sturdy then some.
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Nice headlight, you should take that off and store it somewhere safe.
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I thought they were all expensive 😐 Stay away from the Hall effect lanyard switch ones, go with a simple magnet one like Jitsie sells, they fail less often.
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Might be best to post this question in the forum dedicated to ‘ACU discussion’ instead of ‘General Trials Talk’ Rider numbers in our club are assigned to you when you purchase your competition license.
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Well there you have it then, the ideal kids bike is obviously what Gael Chatagno rode in the SSD 🤨
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Wow that’s a lot of fuel, the overflow tube must be plugged or routed up instead of down, fuel would need to get past the reed valves and completely fill the crankcase, fill the scavenging ports and leak out past the crown of the piston. Check the carb overflow vent pipe first.
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Had to google Gael Chatagno, that’s no kid, thats a really big adult to name drop in a discussion about kid size trials bikes.
add: says his first bike at age 5 was a PW50
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What kid size electric bike has a clutch and gears? And what electric bike that runs full size trials tires complete with a clutch etc. does not cost more than a regular modern trials bike 😂
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From observation; the biggest problem with small frame trials bikes is the limitation to not run full size radial trials tires and rider size is a better gauge then age. Some young people get real big faster than others. Lots of engine power or lack of horses is less of an issue for most if it has a clutch and some gears, small frame bikes with minimal suspension and small wheels, electric bikes and automatic transmissions all limit the young riders ability to fully experience or navigate trials terrain.
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Almost guarantee the fluid leaked down through the O-ring, only way it could evaporate to that extent is if you left the reservoir cap and rubber diaphragm off. The purpose of the rubber diaphragm is to reduce water from contacting the hygroscopic DOT fluid. Moisture on top of the diaphragm is water that has entered through the tiny vent hole and condensed. Vent hole needs to be clear or lower fluid level will create a vacuum in the reservoir.
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Dry clutch master means the DOT fluid or mineral oil has leaked past the piston O-ring and into the transmission, its an easy fix but you need to use the right size and material type replacements.
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Those are almost exactly what grip studz look like. Auger thread vs screw is what makes them stay in good. With grip studz the carbide tip is more apparent. Those would work great and if they are less expensive I would give them a go 👍
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Close to that yes, once you add the tax, shipping and the special tool. Up side is they will last for many years. We ride the same terrain as in summer, the studs are wicked fun and great practice for riding over logs on any angle and really steep hill climbs ⛄️ I find most of the screws in spring and reuse them, the rest disappear into the ground because they are only about 3/8” long once you cut them to length.
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Does anybody know the normal operating temperature of a 2-stroke engines transmission oil?
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…. Your alternator outputs AC power and this is the device that converts AC power to DC so that DC devices can use it.
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4 wires and connected to the DC fan motor would make it a rectifier. Overheating of that component would indicate too much current input, too much current draw, or a short circuit somewhere. You need to test everything from the alternator to the fan and thermostat and lights.
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A friend bought a beta recently and took possession before noticing the kick start is on the left side, great bike if that works for you.
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Rule of thumb is vent pipes go up, drain pipes go down.
Add that trials bike transmissions should not have a source of positive pressure, even a Montesa 4RT has a transmission that is separate from the crankcase oil. If air is being pumped into your 2 stroke transmission it must be leaking past a crankcase seal, which is not intended by design.
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Remember that any fuel you run in your internal combustion engine is a very strong solvent.
Race fuel is very close to being paint thinner.
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Fill all of the middle 3 rows of knobs with carbide grip studz, for the 2 outside rows of knobs you can use sheet metal screws with crazy glue to hold them in better, the front tire works good with carbide grip studz on every knob in the middle row and for the rest of the knobs run sheet metal screws. Don’t leave any knobs as plain rubber or you will crash.
Goal when riding on ice is to stay on the pegs 100 % of the time and spin the tires as little as possible, avoid bare rock surfaces and aim for the ice, logs and frozen ground for the best traction. Don’t ride in double digit minus freezing weather or the tires will crack and the knobs will fall off. 😎 it’s a blast and great practice, you won’t regret it. You won’t lose any grip studz but some of the metal screws will fall out and need replacement or reinstallation. Needs something like 300 studs for the rear and another 100 for the front, buy the sheet metal screws in bulk packs of 1000 so your investment will be somewhere around 800$ canadian
I use worn out trials tires from the previous summer season and those last one winter.
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Lawn mowers and chainsaws have carburetors with a diaphragm fuel pump instead of a float bowl, needle and float. In the case of a chainsaw that is so it can operate on its side or upside down. The carburetor on a lawn mower might have a float but holds less fuel in the float bowl where it can evaporate and distill into solids. If your carb float bowl is full of green stuff, that is the copper parts in your carburetor oxidizing, if it is full of white powder that is the aluminum parts oxidizing and if it is full of black stuff that is what is left of the rubber o- rings.
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This site is as good as any for a start 👍 start a thread dedicated to your location to seek out riding partners.
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