lemur

Note that user hasn't logged in for the past 16 years Modifications to make a cable operated clutch work lighter are not model specific, everybody does the same thing, replace the cable because nothing works as good as a new cable, extend the length of the lever that actuates the clutch because that is how leverage works, reducing the number or strength of the springs that hold the clutch plates together because then you are not working against as strong of a force, but increasing the likelihood of clutch slippage under load. Lastly replace the cable with hydraulics because hydraulics perform amazing compared to any cable. If your clutch cable is not new, replacing the cable is the cheapest and best option for lightening the clutch pull force and minimizing the travel distance at the lever.

They don't appear to be very good with providing detailed technical documentation, do they. I always start at the source which is the alternator windings, you can meter test the alternator for resistance to confirm none of the coils is fried, resistance in the alternator coils will be very low and in the range of an ohm or two. Next is the regulator and rectifier which can be meter or oscilloscope tested for electric output only, the alternator needs to be outputting AC power on all leads to test the regulator output. Rectified power is only used on accessories like the fan and lights, has little to do with spark at the plug. The ignition has a trigger or pickup coil to initiate a spark and that can be meter tested for resistance. CDI can be tested using a second bike and swapping the parts to see if the problem goes to the other bike, virtually impossible to meter test much in the CDI unit, it's basically a power amplifier. Ignition coil, wire lead and plug cap can be meter tested for resistance in the windings or wires, the incoming side of the coil will have a lower resistance than the outgoing side and no continuity on either side of the coil means the coil is fried. Temperature sensors are easy to test and are covered in the documentation. Temp sensor is just a switch that goes from zero continuity to full continuity when the probe is heated. If you can't find the specs for your bike refer to a better manual that has a virtually identical wiring scheme as most 2-T trials bikes are the same when it comes to basic electrics. Biggest difference will be the models that are fuel injected because Fi models will have additional sensors, possibly a battery or large capacitor, plus a fuel pump that runs off DC electric.

To determine the bearing size measure the bearing in mm and select the correct type; deep grove roller bearing for wheels or needle bearing for swing arm or taper bearing for steering head. Walk into your most local bearing supply store or farm tractor type dealer with an old bearing and it is rarely a problem to source one. Very few motorcycles use something really special in the chassis.

Best flush it out with fresh brake fluid. Brake fluid goes bad by taking on water, water freezes and boils, very bad for making ice or steam in the brake fluid which makes your brakes act badly.

Starting in 1976 I rode a Montesa 360VA (air-cooled 2-stroke with a single ring piston and honed steel barrel) running Bel ray MC-1 oil at the ratio of 80:1 as written on the bottle, never had an oil related problem on that machine. The only time I did have a pre-mix oil problem was when I attempted to use some MC-1 that was so far beyond its shelf life it had turned brown instead of blue. Using the discoloured oil resulted in gummed up and stuck piston rings on a chainsaw, but it didn't kill the saw, I was able to clean it up, reassembled it and it ran fine for a few more years. I've used Amsoil 100:1 Saber at 1% pre-mix in chainsaws, snowmobiles and motorcycles for decades with no problem just as long as the oil and fuel was good to begin with and that includes machines that would normally call for 32:1 using oil that has 32:1 written right on the bottle. I don't think an oil manufacturer would risk recommending an oil ratio that does not work, so I tend to go by what is written on the bottle. I'm also seeing more and more synthetic oils that have no mix ratio printed on the bottle which is concerning because I think they are just trying to avoid liability and make everything the consumers fault. I tend to not buy that oil if there is an option and there usually is. Note: Saber 100:1 2-stroke oil is literally too concentrated to run in oil injected machines at the normal oil injection ratios, that's why Amsoil makes Interceptor which is virtually the same oil except rated for 50:1 If the oil says it is good for oil injection systems it won't be suited to 1% lean pre-mix. If the oil says it is good for oil injection systems on the bottle then stay with the ratio recommended in your service manual. Why do you want to run less oil in a pre-mix <- because adding oil to the fuel lowers the fuel octane and lean oil ratios will not lower the octane as much, plus it is less likely to deposit unburnt oil residue through your exhaust system. If your exhaust system is constantly leaking black mung from every seam and clogging up your exhaust packing with raw oil then you are using too much oil in the pre-mix, time to change brands and find something that works.

@iank have you changed the oil to inspect the drain plug magnet and used oil for signs of broken engine bits? Should be doing that regularly plus on the first sign of a transmission/clutch problem.

I made a whole bunch of assumptions including he changed out the oil to inspect it for shrapnel. What part do you figure exploded?

If the problem only manifests in one gear range, that supports the likelihood of it being one compromised shifter fork. The forks and a shift drum with detents to hold everything in the correct aspect are what collectively hold the gears in alignment with each other, if the gear faces don't engage correctly the whole thing locks up. Third is the gear I'm most likely to wear out on a decent powered trials bike ymmv.

I know the first thing I would do is to shift it up one or two gears and see if the problem persists. 1st. is geared too low unless your average speed is a crawl and there is nothing ahead of you. Worn or bent shifter forks is ultimately what makes a transmission change gear on its own etc. Why; because the shifter forks are made out of relatively soft material compared to everything they run against and because you can bend a shift fork just by crashing on the shift lever. Fiber optic inspection of the assembly is a possibility and might avoid a complete tear down if the parts reveal no damage. Common issue to all motorcycle transmissions because most are built the same and it's not uncommon to drop them on the shifter.

Fuel is leaking past your float needle and seat valve uncontrolled. Could be dirt, could be worn parts and it is a very common problem. Same happened to a friends Beta evo here just last week, he shut off the fuel and gave his carb a bump and the float corrected itself at least until he got home.

I can see that, would goop up the exhaust system if the oil isn't being burnt off sufficiently and I've had ipone do that. If you use a 2-stroke oil from a reputable company that says 100:1 right on the bottle that is a safe bet in my opinion and it won't goop up the exhaust much. If the oil makes no claim to being suited to lean mixture I tend to pay more attention to the service manuals.

The owner manual says 2% and that works out to 50:1 ratio so imho that would be a good place to start.

Terrific bike for winter riding if you stud the tires and have a heated garage to start out from and keep the brakes dry, any 4RT with studz is a blast to ride through much of the winter here. With grip studz in regular trials tires you run the tires about 4psi harder than summer, the tire needs to flex less in the freezing cold.

If you just had a constant year round source of fast moving water across your property a true green solution would be no problem at all 🤓 the greater challenge is having a charging station that suits the battery type without over charge, has heating and cooling and won't become a problem if it bursts into smoke and flames one day. So basically you are looking for a comfortable 4 season concrete power bunker next to a small river that flows across your property, a whole bunch of money to sink into equipment and then you can have free rides forever.

Giant teenagers have zero problem getting traction & they can really make a dab count because they can pick the bike up by the grips and throw it some distance if required 😐

Another giant teenager 😎 run the rear tire almost flat and the front soft enough that you only occasionally feel the rim, don't hesitate to rev it up lots, 4RT love lots of engine revs and just keeps pulling up to peak revs, fuel injection fires as reliable as the spark plug, never misses a beat, the 300rr has more power for carrying 3rd gear, the 260 needs to be rung harder to generate the same oomf and feels more at home in 2nd gear. 4RT runs reasonable well on straight pump fuel but pulls a little stronger in down low rpm if you run upgraded fuel. They flame out at around 800rpm or lower because there is not enough electricity to run the fuel pump that low. The bike rewards a steady throttle hand, you should resist the urge to 'blip' the 4-stroke engine as you would a 2-stroke, all that does is mess it up and you will never need to rev it up to clean out the engine just before a big hit, it's not necessary.

I'm sure there will be by this time next year, the name of the rider that I was extremely impressed with is Justin Brazeau, an accomplished Pro class MX and Hard Enduro rider.

4RT has a super broad power band, the fuel injection is what makes the engine perform so well. Montesa suspension feels more settled compared to TRS, GasGas and Beta that feel more lively. Montesa is great for long hill climbs and winter riding, great for deep water crossings and deep mud sections. Rear suspension dog bone requires more service than some because it is exposed to damage. Frame and swingarm is very durable in a crash, rear fender is expensive but way more sturdy then some.

Nice headlight, you should take that off and store it somewhere safe.

I thought they were all expensive 😐 Stay away from the Hall effect lanyard switch ones, go with a simple magnet one like Jitsie sells, they fail less often.

Might be best to post this question in the forum dedicated to ‘ACU discussion’ instead of ‘General Trials Talk’ Rider numbers in our club are assigned to you when you purchase your competition license.

Well there you have it then, the ideal kids bike is obviously what Gael Chatagno rode in the SSD 🤨

Wow that’s a lot of fuel, the overflow tube must be plugged or routed up instead of down, fuel would need to get past the reed valves and completely fill the crankcase, fill the scavenging ports and leak out past the crown of the piston. Check the carb overflow vent pipe first.

Had to google Gael Chatagno, that’s no kid, thats a really big adult to name drop in a discussion about kid size trials bikes. add: says his first bike at age 5 was a PW50

What kid size electric bike has a clutch and gears? And what electric bike that runs full size trials tires complete with a clutch etc. does not cost more than a regular modern trials bike 😂