lemur

Page 40 of the service manual that you can download free from betausa 2.7mm for the inside 4 plates, 3mm for the 2 cork plates on the outside of the clutch pack as per the parts diagram (corks install order is -> fat, thin, thin, thin, thin, fat)

Showcases some of my trials riding areas nicely 😎. event is sold out, course is now set and closed until race day.

Stock gearing, I too would be happy if my 300RR had only 3rd gear, I only use 4th to keep up to the enduro bikes better or to save fuel on the faster trails.

Photos of things like the points might help somebody spot an issue. I always meter and scope trouble shoot starting with the source of power and work down stream until you find the missing link. Alternator first, fuse next, rectifier and regulator if so equipped, Are you setting your points using a meter to make sure it has a good make and break? That will confirm if you have the points wired correctly. Condenser is the hardest thing to meter test but a new one is just as good. Ignition coil needs to be meter tested on both sides as per the service manual, resistance will be very low on the one side in the range of an ohm or three and exponentially greater on the other, no continuity or incorrect ohm reading on either side is a problem. Does your spark lead wire, plug cap and spark plug all have the correct resistance or did you change something there?

My riding partner has gone through so many Beta fenders it's obscene. We stitch them up with zip ties until it's no longer possible and then he eventually replaces them at significant cost regularly. Zip ties hold stronger then any other repair and is easy to do on the spot if you carry zip ties and a Swiss army knife to drill a bunch of holes, which I regularly do carry for that exact purpose.

I jack up the idle slightly and ring the snot out of it in whatever gear it will still pull strong going up the big stuff but I only weigh 130 pounds so a 125 hauls me fairly easy ymmv. If you have great throttle and clutch control a 300 is actually easier to ride for a senior citizen like me. Best way to advance is to ride lots and to ride with better riders.

Short springs are usually for top out 👍 so it doesn't go 'thunk' when you pop a wheelie.

For a spell they liked naming motorcycle models after animals with horns: Impala, Cappra (Capra is a mountain goat or Ibex). I always thought Cota was a coined name for a mountain sheep or lamb. Maybe it's just a cool name that stuck.

It's a very common and popular model and all trials bikes are constant maintenance if you ride them lots, fortunately they are easy to work on if you can replace parts. I buy bearings and seals in the city and specialty items from motorcycle dealers that I ride with, lots of the items come from Jitsie. If the forks are trashed that's where I would end up buying them from, things like brake assemblies are very interchangeable, engine parts not so much, then you need that dealer contact.

Jitsie is a good start if you don't have gasgas dealers to ride with. Trials bike dealers ride regional events, seek out others to ride with and you will have no problem sourcing parts and expertise.

By watching you ride and listening to your engine. ... riding here today if you get bored

Glaciers were kind to us, terrain here is severe, steep hills, exposed granite and calcite with thick peat topsoil and moss covering, no natural sand or gravel, trees, beaver swamps, small lakes and endless trials sections. When it's wet which is often your errors and fails increase exponentially. Easier to show you 😎

Pennsylvania is close, if you are looking for a place to ride and somebody to ride with in Central Frontenac Ontario I can hook you up. If you hurry I have a 2021 TRS 300 electric start for sale right now, you can start that for sure 😎

You just bought the best exercise machine ever 👍

I had a 2001, model was 315R Cota, beautiful sturdy bike. They had nowhere near the compression of the current model 300's. 315 rear fender in black was the most break resistant ever.

At 120something pounds the only way I could start my 300 when the electric starter went out was to lean it against a tree, it's hard on the grips but it's the only way. Fortunately it starts easy once I get on it with all my might and now the electric start is fixed again. Bikes that are hard to start when you are exhausted takes all the fun out of it. btw: If your Montesa 250 was a 4-stroke it had a decompressor built into the camshaft. Decompressor is easy to add if the cylinder head came with an extra plug hole, which your bike does not have. Cylinder heads are often available in either high or low compression versions with lower compression theoretically being easier to start as well as better suited to lower octane fuels.

OMG there is your problem right there, 1st. gear is near useless for a light weight rider, gear up and keep the idle set on the high side. Embrace the power that engine has down low and set the carb lean enough to run at low speed and not rich out.

You running in second gear? Cog it up to third, steady the throttle and abuse the clutch, that will calm down the power delivery.

3rd. gear is perfect for a 300 with high compression 👍 I use 3rd. so much I could remove the rest of the gears and never miss them. 3rd. takes me from zero to whatever I could possibly need and I'm so accustom to the way the throttle and clutch engages in 3rd. it actually messes me up to gear down.

Bike is too new to have starting problems, I'd be making a trip back to the dealer to sort out the start issues while they still have some responsibility. The manual calls for 98 octane fuel, I'd be concerned running 90 octane with 67:1 oil mixed, your resulting octane rating will be even lower yet as the premix oil lowers the octane. Myself I mix race fuel with pump gas to achieve a fuel octane rating that is very close to the manuals recommendation. You aren't bring the engine up on TDC to start, you actually just want it to come up on compression. Laying the bike on the side has no logic on a carburetor equipped engine, all that will do is mess up the fuel level in the float bowl.

If you are buying it to ride and become a better rider buy a good running modern bike. If you are buying an old Montesa because you once rode one that's a completely different thing. ... oh and Hi Lee 😎 I too have an old Montesa that needs parts

People do teach & help other riders and even provide riding areas for free. Observed Trials competition events are where you will meet those people.

Fan doesn't have a 'relay' (magnetic activated switch for controlling high power to something like a starter motor) only a temperature controlled switch on the radiator. He's still dead in the water if there is no regulated ~12 volts DC power to supply the fan. No AC power coming out of the engine is an alternator problem inside the engine.

If I read you correctly; your clutch sticks on cold startup and needs to be broken free before you have clutch action. That is a function of your clutch plates and the lubricant you selected, not so much a 2-stroke engine operating temperature thing as your transmission oil viscosity is regulated by the environment. example: if you are riding in sub-zero temperature your transmission oil might never get hot. ... going to guess you are using a multi-grade engine oil in your transmission. I rarely to never have a clutch stick issue running ISO 46 UDT hydraulic fluid, even in sub-zero weather. For safety sake, you should always be prepared for the clutch to stick initially by off-weighting the rear tire and applying the front or rear brake when you first engage the gear. It should break free almost immediately.

They already tried that, now looking for 12 volts DC output for the fan and that ain't happening without a working alternator, regulator and rectifier circuit.