lemur

Throttle down, shift up, work the clutch and get good at one finger braking 👍 then you can safely start to follow better riders and learn technique. Find the gear that takes you from zero to all you will ever need (usually 3rd on a 300cc) leave it that gear until you can ride that gear with good control on any terrain. As a senior citizen I prefer the larger displacement bikes because I don't need to ring the snot out of a little tiny engine to make it work.

Jitsie

The 2 high tension wires that go to the starter motor? Those wires would need to remain that thick or the batteries and relays need to be moved very, very close to the starter motor.

Oh heck no! and if I did break something at yesterdays trial, I would have had it fixed ready for todays trial 😎 D&J stock the parts you are likely to need.

Gotta get my parts from somewhere.

Yep constant, you must not be riding anywhere near the hours I do now, I'm retired and all I do now is ride motorcycles. Currently a 2017 Montesa and a 2020 TRS and planning to trade my TRS in for a new one this year or next spring.

All of them are constant maintenance, what brand would provide you the best dealer/service representation? <- that's the one to roll with. ... my TRS dealer is only 20 feet away at the moment and he has a truckload of spare parts 😎

Sorry I didn't realize FAA documents are 'random lethal articles'. " transition to lead-free aviation fuels for piston-engine aircraft by the end of 2030" <- that's 7 years and hopefully well within my lifetime.

Poisonous and lethal are the correct terms now that we know better and we know better because we (humans) abused the use of TEL to the point where it has become a global problem for all life. https://www.faa.gov/about/initiatives/avgas#:~:text=The most common and reliable,damage at higher power settings. LL Avgas is on the chopping block.

You mean all those airplanes that come fitted with 2 spark plugs per cylinder ! Decades ago lead fouled plugs and left visible deposits on every engine I ever ran leaded fuel in. In the 1960's and 70's we went through spark plugs like they were candy. I 'd much rather explain to you the impact of TEL on human and other living things and why you should not be burning TEL in your weed eater today. ... I'm a field naturalist but I guess you can call me a tree hugger so from where I stand you are not just breaking federal law you are breaking the law of nature 🤔 for fun

For wet clutch and transmissions I use the same thing I use in my Kubota tractor or excavator transmission & hydraulics. Works out to around 8$ per litre or less then half the cost of motorcycle lubricants so I can change it more frequently and that's the ticket to better clutch performance, you need to keep the dirt and water out. To the question of mineral oil, yes it's been around almost forever, Norton brand honing or sharpening stone oil is a very thin, food safe, pure mineral oil and works great in a clutch hydraulic master cylinders as well as for lubricating cables and mechanical parts where a thin oil is called for. Been using both types of oil successfully in all brands and types of motorcycles for decades.

Not cool to run leaded fuel in a Montesa and that could definitely foul plugs through lead deposits. and it's illegal.

Neoprene boot gaiter

Indeed, his is even more simple, it has fewer parts by one and one less component connection to be concerned about. The fan and its power requirements are virtually the same.

How much do you figure has changed? We are talking about trouble-shooting one of the most simple electrical systems in existence. If you were ordering parts it might make a difference but a thermostat control on a fan is as basic as it gets, it's just a switch that turns on when you heat a sensor, if you don't trust the thermostat you can bypass it with a toggle switch. If bypassing the switch doesn't work then he has a problem with power generation and the test procedure for an alternator, rectifier and regulator is unchanged.

Search harder -> https://www.mrsltd.co.uk/Catalogue/Sherco-Manuals-Parts-Books/Manuals/Trials

Service manual shows the fan is controlled by the CDI unit and they detail how to meter test the thermostat in hot water. On my 315 Cota the fan would kick on in the middle of a section and the idle would drop enough to risk stalling, so I put a bypass toggle switch on the fan circuit and that was handy. Better to have too much air movement then not enough. I always start trouble-shooting electric problems at the source, so meter test of the alternator windings is the best place to start, also detailed in the service manual.

That's a really old thread you are posting to, I would highly recommend you start a new thread and post a photo of the parts you need, and maybe what part of the world you need them in 😎

That's a negative, the key is in there to position the flywheel correctly, without it your ignition timing would be all over the place. For what it's worth the last time I had a 2-stroke coil rewound it cost about 125$cdn.

The decompressor is a little tiny (spring loaded) weight that is built right onto the camshaft. The valve clearance is the only adjustment. It's a one shot decompressor, if it don't work on the first rotation it won't work. It's on there so that the engine can complete 2 rotations of the crankshaft and start the fuel pump pumping. All you are really doing to start the 4RT engine is to spin it up to idle speed, you don't want to jab at the kick starter like a 2-stroke. Once running the engine will lug down well below the idle start speed before it goes Ker-Puck! and flames out. 100LL avgas contains Tetraethyl Lead ☠️ ... curious why the 2022 models would have fuel pump problems after they have gone so many years without significant changes. Absolute best way to trouble-shoot a 4RT problem is to own 2 of them and swap assemblies until you find something that fails.

lol ya, with the ministry of environment

Ignition key no, you can just put a magnet tether kill switch on it. Meter test or even better an oscilloscope will show you what the output is and how regulated it is, what lamp you use will be dependent on that test. LED uses low voltage but are not tolerant to over-voltage so your power needs to be regulated to suit the LED lamps. You would need to add a capacitor to prevent them from flickering because your power output is going to have a relatively low frequency and no battery to smooth the power.

Not very scientific and likely somebody has a better idea but I always tighten them by hand and then hit the wrench with a hammer to see how much more it moves.

Is this what you are dealing with? Resistance test the coil windings and you should see something in the realm of a couple of ohms per coil. The black box will be a rectifier and the steel cased one that says it must be earthed will be the regulator because voltage regulation produces heat and no way do you want to run light emitting diodes unless you like lights that flicker. LED lamps have no latency so at the very least you would need to add a capacitor to smooth the current flow. Guessing this is a 6 volt system. Super easy to run LED lights off a battery that you recharge from a wall outlet or dead loss disposables like a regular flashlight. No wiring diagram really sucks, sure looks like the lighting coil has just been wired to the ignition coil, that would make it a 2 phase alternator and the output would be easy to check using an oscilloscope.

"Before this all started, I was riding one day and when I tried shut off, bike kept running even though the lanyard was disconected. It died after 10 seconds or so." Would not be the first time the lanyard caused all the problems. Yes, the air box normally accumulates a small amount of clean engine oil. Fuel injection sorts itself out when you leave it idle until the fan kicks on. I'd be tempted to set the valve clearances again, you might not have got them right, have a micrometer handy to check your feeler gauges and to get a feel for the correct clearance. There is a little tiny decompressor on the exhaust valve side and it needs to be spot on to work and that is the source of hard starting. I've run higher octane and it does perform better, but they normally run faithful as a Honda on regular octane fuel. My first 4RT was hard on plugs, every one after that has been good on plugs, I never did find the problem with that first one, I sold it soon after I dropped it in the lake.