Tr1AL

@nhuskys Brilliant. Thanks , that's what I have been waiting for.

All information is needed , actual bike model etc what is it Ducati system or Motoplat ?.Where are you USA , UK etc ?

www.sherco.com manuals 2012series.

Sell it and buy a 250 is the least amount of messing about.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/DSX5PKJDLJs/?utm_source=ig_embed

A bike is what it is and then you change it to how you prefer it to be using different parts such as bars or foot rests etc and if you cannot get it to feel right no matter what you change then the only thing you can do is try another make of bike. IMO asking someone else is not helpful because everyone has different preferences.

Keeping the grey beards happy, probably the only ones that can afford to buy and also have the time to use a new trials bike at the present time.

Start it in neutral is the obvious one as Pro clutches have a tendency to drag no matter what type of oil or ATF you put in. If the bike has a KEIHIN PWK 28 then take the Jet metering block off and clean the tiny holes you see of any gunge then put a new jet block gasket in before putting it back on. Make sure the jetting is not too rich as it just soots the plug if you are not thrashing the motor regularly causing bad starting/running. In my experience the standard plugs are better than the NGK platinum in the 125 and they are better with a bigger gap like 0.7. Do not over oil the air filter and 80:1 in the tank is plenty of oil , you do not need more to be safe unless you are running it in a trial with lots of road work. Take the reed block off and put some new standard reeds in to make sure its all as it should be and be scrupulously clean while doing all the work and make sure gaskets seal properly.

https://youtu.be/9TH3osNOdBY?si=QsjThBvRpJ9lP

Yes faussy I agree .He could also try the MITAS PRO and the PIRELLI MT43 , I have not tried them but they look like Trials tyres. At club level I do not think tyres make much difference. That is also true of the bikes that people use , regular competitors know that a old Fantic 125 twinshock will beat a 300 Vertigo with the right rider on board. It makes one wonder why people bother at club level with all the expense. There is a review on instagram by an competent Australian rider and the Kenda IBEX gets a good review all round , the only exception being that the tyre folds when pushed hard.

Michelin , Dunlop D803 GP , IRC Rear . Anything else is not a serious tire/tyre for the sport at this present time

I have not seen any specs for that bike.

www.tricksinthesticks.co.uk or www.inchperfecttrials.co.uk These have bikes to hire or take your own and pay less. It is harder than it looks but don't be put off . if you stick at it and put some time in it is a good cheap sunday out (Entries cost around £20 )and there are plenty of trials events around where you are. Find events @ www.tmxnews.co.uk/ whats on this week-end. Southend & District MCC has a trial on 30th NOV @ Poles wood (NEAR THE SECRET BUNKER), Ongar Rd ,Kelvedon Hatch . CM15 0LA Starts 10.30am finish around 15.30pm Riders will be there around 9.00am if you want to ask people questions about bikes and how to get started in the sport . Too find the venue look for a day-glo orange triangle at the side of the road that points to the entrance. Its free to watch and go in for spectators. There is usually a burger van at most trials events if you want to eat/drink there. Most important thing in Trials is a well prepared bike ( Handle bar and bar lever position makes a lot of difference plus I found that oddly footrest type and position made a big difference also) . Tyre pressures are very important in the newest tyres you can afford the best being Michelin X11 . Pressures for mud 5 psi Front 3/3.5 psi Rear and for riding on stone and Rock or dry conditions 6psi Front 4 psi Rear those being the usual starting points . Others will no doubt chime in with their recommendations.

The 4RT 301RR makes a pathetic 16.3 HP , 1 HP more than a VERTIGO 125 but the 301RR puts out 15.1 ft/lbs torque , where as the VERTIGO 125 makes 8.8 ft/lbs . With that much torque output of the 301 it may be better leaving it with the stock clutch spring set up. 4RT 260 makes 15.6 HP and 13.4 ft/lbs torque

Yes I am sure it is , use whatever works to stop the loss of air.

It is a lost in translation thing . https://www.trialsuk.co.uk/puncture-repair/Apico-puncture-Repair-Strips---Tubeless-Tyres---Pack-30

Yes and a packet of dog turds.

For puncture resistance on rocks yes of course , as far as I am aware X light is for indoor trials. It would be odd if a major tyre manufacturer would spend an astronomical amount of money on tooling and R&D to produce a tyre that a few trials clubmen had suggested as a desired option while chatting in a bar. I am going to guess that its development was requested by the elite riders specifically for indoor events in the same way that Adam Raga requested that the older GASGAS would benefit from losing a lot of weight to help with hopping and skipping around which resulted in the pro version.

Go to trialworld.es or todotrial if you want to find out what is happening. This is a how to fix things site in my experience.

I dont know why so many people dislike X-lights I have used most brands and versions and the X -light seems good to me. The top riders use them and they do not seem to complain.

If its of any use to you ... in the UK for competition the Michelin X11 is considered to be the best tyre for grip in all conditions and lasts the longest , quite a lot of riders in the south of the UK where Trials are run in woodland with little rock/stone but plenty of mud swear that the IRC WINNER TR is the best rear tire to use , they usually use a Michelin on the front wheel.

AIROH TRR/TRRS , it is the original most vented trials specific helmet that is available to buy at the present time .

Use silicone grease on O rings to make them stick in the grooves of casings during assembly. whining noise may be the primary gear with the clutch meshing , Check the nut that holds the clutch basket/bell on is tight.

As konrad said they are like that .This is for when the carb is used OEM on a bike that will have the adjusters on the left hand side e.g early GasGas pro 280 There is no need to plug it it is already blank , it does not matter if dirt gets in the hole , it will not get inside the carburettor.

Go to www.todotrial.com and change the language at the top right of the page all the info there.