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@mcman56 As this all worked at some point previous to this happening you could grind or file the crushed inner edges of the spacer tube at both ends until the axle passes through it again and then grease it all up put some new C3 wheel bearings in and tighten the axle up by hand no torquing no excessive tightening needed then push on the suspension a few times to centralise everything and then tighten the pinch bolts to clamp/lock up the spindle/axle bolt.

@larro Konrad knows as much if not more than the man that designed it so you are much better off listening to him than me obviously. I only have one more thing to add which is are the inner edges of the clutch basket teeth where the edges of the clutch plates slide completely smooth and also the edges of the tangs on the plates themselves are they deburred/ clean if not you could clean them up with a file to make the clutch plate movement as smooth as it can be to aid separation.

Hi Konrad that OSSA motor sounds like the most needy badly engineered lump available perhaps that is why Fajardo arrived and exited so swiftly.

Good luck! Best wishes Alan.

If you feel that you have covered all the bases and to no avail there is one more thing that you could try and that would be to clean the excess bonded material in the gaps between the clutch fibre pads the idea being to allow oil/fluid to move away from the fibre pads to reduce drag. For example use a scraper with a sharp edge such as the type available in a scalpel set. Good luck.

@andrewb 3mm thick sheet of aluminium cut to fit and bonded underneath the break point (Gorrilla Gel Superglue) and rivetted in all the best places to add the max possible strength. or find a second hand one in a breakers yard.

@larro OK if that is not a thing that may help the only thing that I can think of if you have the correct clutch pack thickness would be air bubbles in the hose that need bleeding out or failing/leaking seals in the clutch hydraulic system or there needs to be less free play between the lever and the clutch plunger pin(with a spring) that sits between the lever and the piston of the clutch master cylinder for example if you set the lever so that it can move as far out/away from the handle bar as it can be set by unscrewing the adjuster screw on the perch and then set the gap between the lever adjuster screw and the plunger pin to be the minimum possible you will get the max opening of the clutch plates possible to give the least amount of drag created by gearbox clutch oil/fluid for the throw of the lever , with this adjustment the pull at the clutch lever is the hardest on the finger , that is of course with all the other parts of the system working as when the system was new. Also did you try ATF dexron III which is less viscous almost like water or Perhaps VI which I think is used in the later Sherco motors. Hope you find a solution soon . Best wishes Alan.

That is a really bad leak , it is so bad it almost looks like it has been raining.

@stogga you could try taking a file to grooves if that is your problem , as a last resort of course

@larro If you can obtain it where you are you could try Motorex Trial gear oil , in my experience it is less draggy in a trials clutch than most of the others that are popular with the trials community.

@Chaz9462 I personally never had any problem removing the gear off the crank and I have done it many times , normally after removing the clip it just pulls off by hand , it looks like some one has been beating on that one which will probably have made it harder to remove as the edges will have spread , I would heat only the gear with gas/oxy or a heat gun then put a standard gear puller on it after putting something suitable in the hole in the crank. for the puller to push against. DO NOT USE THE CASING AS A LEVERAGE POINT ESPECIALLY NOT ON A MAGNESIUM CASE . IF YOU WARM WITH A GAS TORCH DO NOT LET THE FLAME NEAR THE MAGNESIUM FOR OBVIOUS REASONS .

if you know how to jet why are you asking what clip position . How are your brakes did the slots cut into the pads make your brakes not work properly.

www.thehellteam.com Tech Support Gas Gas Info. look in suspension and you will find the manual for an 82 version 35mm.

@PapaLazarou Hi its Dave , I have a block in my toilet.

Sorry I did not understand that . Please forgive me. Best wishes Alan.

How to go about doing things is all available on the internet , do your research first before attempting any jobs that you know nothing about , it is so much easier and there will be less chance of damage occurring.

It would be great if jetting were that simple as in reality there are many variables that need to be considered , this is why some people rave on about Efi but that has its own problems at times. To start with have you lifted the needle by lowering the clip into the slot down from where it was when you found it lean and tested that.

Its great when people go to all that effort and also explain succinctly. It sounds like you have no direct experience of the PRO version, to my mind they are a nice bike to ride but the gear box is a bit clunky after 3rd although with standard gearing through the sprockets being tall/high then if you ride UK closed circuit club trials 1, 2 and 3 cover most situations so it has not been much of a concern in my experience. The old contact models motor in the 1990's had a better feel to ride IMO even if they are quite a lot heavier although it did not stop people doing the trick riding the same as is done with the PRO version. No doubt you are probably right about the FACTOR-e box it would make sense not only as a weight saving design but to make a more compact casing also. Any way glad you found it as interesting as I did , all thanks to gravityisnotmyfriend YouTube. Best wishes Alan.

https://youtu.be/Rtv10YeKrsQ?feature=shared

@cedec96 First do this https://youtu.be/G55FU27Z9bU?feature=shared If that does not improve the shifting gear problem then you have to split the gearbox and check the bearings for wear that support the gear shafts then check the (in english) dogs (teeth)on the gear disc/wheel selector sliders and also the teeth of the actual gears themselves and the 'U' shaped selector forks need to be straight also. You need to check the selector drum slots for damage /wear and the 2x small bearings on selector shaft. If you split the engine it makes sense to just change all the bearings in there any way while it is in parts it is not much money to pay . Good luck . Best wishes Alan.

Buy a clutch and brake master cylinder made by BRAKTEC or AJP and a pair of APICO cold forged levers. Outrageous that die-cast levers are even fitted as standard on a new trials motorcycle.

What year is your BETA EVO.

@garydwall Obviously the thermostat switch that is best to use is the one it was fitted with when it was new by the factory who designed and made it. Parts books are easy to find on the internet.

@garydwall the inline one is the early version of the pro and the one located at the top of the radiator is the middle/ 2nd version of the series either will work but a 09 pro had the thermostat fitted in the radiator at the top right corner where the coolant enters the rad from the cylinder head but either will work. Later versions have the thermostat located at the bottom of the rad on the left hand side.

@Chillout1983 Of course you could just skip all that advice as the 4RT does look like a very capable bike. 'Remember this is your life and its ending 1 minute at a time'. Have fun. https://youtu.be/2ki4VgsRG8M?feature=shared.