Tr1AL

It is just a nod to my late 'News Flash' about Raga faussy as a poor joke , if you go to rider news on Trials central the news is Fajardo banned for a year and Busto signs for Vertigo both current news of course , the news should actually be Matrtin Lampkin signs to ride a Bultaco under current UK standards.

If you did not know yet Busto has signed to ride for VERTIGO.

Yes but this is a UK Trials site , after Covid and Brexit combined we went back in time to the 1970's , and that unfortunately is not a joke you should see what passes as entertainment on the' idiot lantern' at present , there are literally programmes on most channels that were screened in the 70's and so comms is along way behind so sorry about the delay. If it was not for 'trialworld.es' and 'todotrial' we would not know anything.The only thing on this site seems to be Questions and answers. As it is Trials Central I would have thought it would have more News to keep people in the loop. Enjoy your day.

https://youtu.be/87dmX-9Mn5I?feature=shared

I would say that beating Bou in any situation is a very big deal but especially being a rider that comes from the UK as there is very little support for Trial riders here its a secret sport. where as in Spain it is a well known sport and their governing body helps nurture new talent for the WTC.

If you do not know yet then Raga has signed to ride a SHERCO.

@lerk I think faussy is talking about the knocking not the bent flange , something is not right with the flange plate it should fit almost flush with the cylinder with a small even spaced gap of about 1mm , try taking off the crush gasket/gaskets ? there should be one perhaps someone fitted one thinking there was no gasket there and you have 2X gaskets in there . They are crush gaskets and so they come out quite easily get a long thin screwdriver with a flat blade about 5mm wide put something on the edge you are levering on like a cut piece of hose pipe or whatever to protect the cylinder and gouge the end of the screwdriver into the inner face of the crush gasket and lever it out then make sure there is not another one in there before thoroughly scraping out the recessed area and putting a new gasket back in there. As far as knocking/ pinking goes you need the highest octane petrol / gas you can buy at the pump 98/99 RON and you can try fitting a 1mm thick aluminium spacer available from www.trialendurodirect.com approx £25 at the head to lower your bikes compression slightly or fit a GasGas/S3 low compression head insert. Lowering the compression will obviously soften the power output of the bike which is not a bad thing if you ride in wet conditions.

@lerk When you fit the front pipe/header into the mid box put some silicone grease on the 2X orange silicone rings and on the pipe so that the pipe can move around easily and when you fit the front/header pipe to the cylinder DO NOT have the Mid box mounting bolts tightened have them as loose as possible so that you can get the front pipe to enter the crush gasket and sit correctly then tighten the flange plate just enough to hold everything square the front pipe should be able to swivel at the joint , now tighten up the mid box support bracket bolts and then swivel the front/header into the best position to be close to the bike and leaving an even gap at the join where it enters the mid box and then tighten the 2X bolts at the flange plate.

@lerk If it bothers you take it off and flatten the flange plate again and this time do not over tighten it , if you overtighten joints you are more likely to have leaks because you are distorting things , Most of the time torque settings tables from the manufacturer and torque wrenches can help to avoid this.

Rear Shock rose joint/ spherical bearing in the shock eyes of a GasGas JT model is normally a GE12PW size ID = 12mm OD = 26mm W = 16mm .

There may be problems this year at ACU events , the organisers will become suspicious when Paul Melhuish wins all the classes at their next event and is also every competitor in the event..

No you can still buy new copies today. and its author still works on his monthly magazine 'Trials' .

Most people do these kind of things if they are honest , I make lots of mistakes daily when I already know better its frustrating but at least we rarely make the mistakes more than twice , hopefully. Have a good evening.

Hello, bearings usually have the size code stamped or lazer etched into the outer edge unless they are super cheapo ones. If you remove them you can check them to see if they have any on them.

@misterroy You may have a front brake lever that has no free play causing the brakes to drag then the heat build up expands the fluid and it cannot return to the expansion tank IE the brake reservoir which then uses the brake calliper as its route to expand and applies the brakes. Make sure you have free play of about 1 mm between the lever and the little metal plunger that goes into the rubber boot at the Brake reservoir that is clamped on the handlebar.

A chipped tooth on the kick quadrant or idler gear floating about in the clutch side is first stop as you obviously do not have to full strip the motor after that its loose bits floating about in the gearbox side it only needs to be some thing very small a chipped piece who knows , there is not a lot in a pro gearbox to cause this particular problem perhaps a problem in the shift drum , until its in bits I cannot think of anything that will lock the box solid like that other than loose bits in there.

Stop using it. Turn off the fuel , plug the tank breather tube with a bolt or whatever to stop fuel spilling while you move it around , Take the fuel tank off. and lay the bike on its left side as flat as possible then take off the clutch cover with the water pump still attached to the casing and with a piece of wire approx 30 cm long both ends bent into hooks place one hook in the bolt hole closest to the kickstart shaft hole and pull the casing out of the way and hook the other end of the wire up near the head stock IE onto the clutch hose where it enters the frame. Remove the clutch bolt in the centre off the clutch ihe one deeply recessed , make sre the allen key you use is a very good fit or you will round off the allen fitting and be in a real mess. Remove the clutch complete then take off the clips on the shafts and remove the gears so you can see if any loose bits of metal are in there use a small magnet to fish around in any oil pools. DO NOT LIFT THE BIKE UP during this process or you will have 500cc of oil on the workshop floor as the gear box oil is at present in the other side of the casing. If everything in there is in one piece with no loose parts floating about then Put it all back together , When you tighten the casing bolts as soon as they snugg up that is tight enough do not tighten these too much or you will regret it. If you found no floaters in that side of the casing that would jam things up then you need to SPLIT THE CASES and check the other side where the gear clusters and shift mechanism reside if you are not mechanically minded and do not have much of a tool kit then best leave it to a trials dealer. Good luck. Do not use the bike until you fix this or you may cause more damage .

Nothing will happen, i have run water cooled trials motors during the 1990.s at 100:1 and nothing happened and at 80:1 and nothing happened if you want to waste oil and your money then of course that is your prerogative.

Seriously that is way too much oil in the mix and is recommended in the manual purely because they have to warranty the bike for a short while and their oil manufacturing partner of that moment in time IPONE or which ever brand they do a deal with wants you to use as much oil as possible to make money , it is just wasting oil and your own money.

If you are going to use a TRIAL specific oil like ROCK OIL Strawberry or PUTOLINE Strawberry ETC then you can choose to put 65:1 , 70:1 , 80:1 , 100:1 take your pick any one of those ratios will work it depends how much you know about oil really . VERTIGO trials bikes run at near 200:1 so you are in a very grey area. If it were my bike I would go for 80;1 but you will probably find that you just opened a 'Can of worms'. The theory is the less oil you use the cleaner your EXHAUST SYSTEM will be for a longer period and as 2 strokes power output is affected by the design of the system IE the length and diameter of the header/front pipe and the volume and shape of the mid box and silencer and how the exhaust is packed with wire wool in the mid box and fibre glass string ETC in the silencer box then if it gets clogged with excessive amounts of un burnt oil that turns into caked carbon deposits then it will alter the way that the motor delivers the power. You would not want to run your particular bike at 200;1 but 100:1 would not hurt it with modern oils, 80:1 is the being safer ratio.

@Tootsie If you are planning on keeping your bike for a long time you could have a fabricator make you an aluminium tank using an old second hand one from an early pro as the base then cut the top off your ruined plastic tank to use as a cover over the aluminium tank for aesthetic purpose.

https://youtu.be/JS7H6Gts9ik?feature=shared

@bikerpetObviously I do not know exactly what you are doing but going by what you say it sounds like you are trying to cram too much packing in there , the silencer neads to absorb the sound wave so the packing should be fairly loosely packed not solid or the gases will just pas through as if it is a piece of solid tubing , perhaps thats why it sounds louder than before.

sjtrials.com latest news for very brief video of this KTM version. go to bottom of home page at useful links for the latest news

Here is a starter https://youtu.be/c7HJZHFH3gA?feature=shared