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@JimLepageTRP or OHLINS TRP I never saw one used for sale ever OHLINS for sale used fairly regularly approx 200 . Both cost 550 to 600 new

Very true ,

That is a mix of bikes , the complete motor going by the paint colour and finish is perhaps 2004 2005 or 2006 PRO MODEL and is in good outward condition for that age , the EDITION motor is a completely different engine pre PRO 2002 era that has its roots with several trials motorcycle manufacturers including JCM in the late 1980s , forks are aluminium stanchioned 40mm Marzzochi cartridge type more than likely 2007 . The frame is a painted earlier frame if it has that lug perhaps the sticker with the vin belongs to it , the way to check is to look on the other side of the steerer tube and the actual vin of that frame should be physically stamped into the metal. The OHLINS shock is not standard but was available on the Raga editions of the pro and is easily rebuildable so that is a good thing , original OEM shock is usually a SACHS ZF , the fuel tank is 2002 to 2006 with later plastic lighter fuel cap but. that tank would probably have had the earlier heavier aluminium fuel cap originally . Rear mud guard in red of that shape pobably 2003 to 2006 Exhaust looks like a 2007 on as the middle box and silencer are welded one piece which is a good thing better than the earlier 2 piece gunk drippers That is basically it as wheels brakes etc are the same on all the pros around that era. You can find most of the information you need about GasGas Pros at www.thehellteam.com under GasGas INFO. manuals etc . Also it is normal for the rear brake hose and EPDM brake fluid refill tube to run so close to the rear shock . Another thing if you have not got one , It is not in the pics You need the neoprene rubber sheet that sits near the top shock mount and goes under the rear of the fuel tank this is important as it keeps muck and water from being thrown into the air box inlet slot .

I had a 2007 it should have a H in the frame number if it is a 2007. 2002 frames differ from 2007 ones in that they have a welded mounting lugg with one hole in it that is absent on a 2007 this is located on the left hand rear frame top tube that sits next to the top shock mount support , the lugg is for the rear brake master cylinder reservoir plastic bowl and on an 02 the reservoir bowl is positioned at 45 degrees within the airbox cowling and can be seen through the triangular cut out on the left side of the airbox , 2007 reservoir sits on a thin metal tang clipped on to the anti vibration rigidity strut that is bolted to the rear cylinder studs. 2007 bikes had a more rigid thin gauge alloy fuel tank with a slightly higher profile that was anodised in a sort of dark brown metallic colour, earlier bikes had a soft aluminium thicker gauge alloy that was bright natural aluminium in finish like the one in your picture , another 2007 thing was the cylinder and head being painted in a dark grey gunmetal colour while earlier bikes are silver coloured.2002 motor has thin magnesium engine cases that by now will look a little corroded in some areas , 2007 has 1kg heavier aluminium cases and should still look outwardly quite good

There is the copy of the OKO and then a copy of the copy. The copy of the OKO sells for around £25 but oddly the copy of the copy sells for £30 upward .I have 2X £25 ones and the quality of the casting and spigots , screws etc are better than the genuine Keihin ones In my opinion , also you can fit genuine Keihin jets to tune them , the only major problem I have come across with those £25 carbs being the slide supplied and the only one available is approximately a 2 or 2.5 cutaway? and so needs grinding out to the same spec as a genuine Keihin 3.5 or it runs a bit rich but having said that can with the unmodified slide and suitable jetting run a good clean low idle for 10 mins or more without fouling a standard plug and with the air screw at 1 1/2 turns out. The only problem I had was with one of them dry sooting the plug due to poor sealing on the choke/starter piston rubber but after swapping it out for another cheap one from a 10 PIECE spares kit £13.98 it was cured. In my experience buying a cheap one saved me a lot of money for very similar results , 2 for the price of one and a voucher for a litre of expensive gearbox oil and a few other bits. Seems like a good deal to me.

That unfortunately is entitled competitive people for you , while you were a volunteer he was getting paid a good salary to be there , that was the bit that was not fair but Heh! . off on a tangent TTC looks like a great place for trials riders if you can get there, I only see it in the Ryan Young training videos but a lot of excellent terrain available , I wish it was on my door step..

@manwithgunWhen Adam Raga was a GasGas factory rider he just used to flick the lever out on a 300 pro and kick it into life violently without engaging the quadrant gear carefully first, but of course he was not paying the not insignificant sum of money for a new bart gear and idler gear after chipping all the teeth on them both.

@LayneThere are wiring diagrams on www.thehellteam.com site under Tech support GASGAS INFO - thehellteam.

If you are having problems locating a decent replacement then it may be easier to take your original to a an automotive/ motorcycle engineering workshop and ask them if they can drill the lever part pivot area and fit a sleeve using something like a oiled bronze bushing of a suitable size or ream one out to fit your kick start lower knuckles pivot post it will cost of course but it will be like new if done well and there may be no other option available unfortunately.

@rr62If you want to paint it at home yourself then there is not much choice other than automotive 2K 2 Pack but that needs to be treated with respect for health reasons and could prove costly. if you want to keep the paint on the frame when you have sprayed it with Smoothrite it is best to leave it to cure for a week then cover the areas that you want to protect with Moto-X Grade self adhesive clear plastic sheet and use a heat gun to soften it up when you apply it or it will be hard to work with.

@DonaldwSome times the rubber throttle grip moves toward the housing and can rub on the black plastic housing that the tube turns in , there should be a large plastic washer that sits in between the grip and the housing to help prevent friction. check that there is a gap of about 2 or 3mm between the grip and the housing and if you have bar ends fitted make sure there is a gap between the grip end and throttle tube end so that it does not drag against the bar end protector. IAnother thing that may cause a sticky throttle is accumulated gunge between the throttle tube and the actual handle bar , a thorough clean of the bar and the inside of the throttle tube with something like brake cleaner will help and as a lubricant between them silicone grease , graphite powder or WD40 makes a dry PTFE lubricant spray. If you have a lot of scoring marks from trapped grit on the bar or the inside of the tube then it is best to get rid of as much as you can using wet and dry where you can. As regards your worn throttle slide yes it will cause problems but this can be countered by changing your throttle spring for a heavier spring to help the slide return along with regularly applying a little PTFE lubricant in the slide bore or if you are not on a budget just buy a new throttle slide or complete carburettor of course.

@FailMasterThese are the sprockets that work on a 125 9/43 , 9/44, 9/46 , 9/48 try them all if you can , they all feel very different. 9/48 is the most favoured because it allows you to use 3rd and 4th gear more but makes for a very short 1st gear. The technique to riding a 125 is to get the revs up very high when you need power to go up things and slip the clutch if the revs start to drop off too much. Big hill climbs on a 125cc goes like this , on the best bit of grippy ground you can start your attack from you turn the throttle wide open until the engine is screaming its head off then dump the clutch and go , but hold the throttle wide open do not back off and use body positioning and the clutch to keep control of the bike going upward , the incline of the hill will kill off the revs as you go up and you will know when it is ok to roll off the throttle by the sound of the motor when you are approaching the top. Unless you buy one of the later after 2015/2016 125cc bikes you have very little chance of having any torque at the bottom of the rev range. You can help low down power on a 125 by reducing the diameter of the front pipe where it joins on the barrel/jugg using a sleeved part made from aluminium tubing to create back pressure. check out S3 parts made in Spain. Also you can fit a flat slide type carburettor Keihin PWK 28 or a Dellorto VHST as a performance enhancer on a 125. Make sure the jetting is correct and the carburettor is tuned correctly so that you get the best response from the motor , If you do not know how to do it then all you have to do is google it. Here is a video of some good riders using 125cc bikes I cannot get this to embed for some reason so you need to click on it to see it. https://youtu.be/z6_xvCfs_l4?feature=shared