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@thesaint your picture of the gold raga is of a later version than the 2009 about a 2011. The 2009 Raga should have unless changed by previous owners magnesium engine cases and clutch cover and a carbon fibre end casing affixed to the exhaust mid box all for quite a reduction in weight probably about 2 kg that is about the only major differences. The 2012 Racing has a revised swing arm linkage ratio and the rear end of the frame that supports the shock is revised to improve stiffness/strength Dougie Lampkin was involved in the development at this time if I am correct and so this is a plus for the 2012 bike , there are no magnesium bits on the racing AFAIK apart from this there is not much of a difference between the two that many people would really notice when riding . The 2012 racing may have Formula made brake master cylinders and calipers in place of the usual AJP/BRAKTEC , these were considered to be crap at the time oddly in my experience of a Formula front brake i had on a bike it was the best brake I ever had. The well admired TECH forks that are revered at present are made by Formula. If you do end up with Formula brakes then finding spare parts for them will probably be difficult and costly. That is about it really only other thing I can think of is the Airbox and rear mudguard which are completely different .

@hrc450 optimism is a cruel mistress , It was knocked out of me years ago , giving up now will make your recovery much shorter Terry , get well soon.

@whiskey I forgot to say If you have a 28mm KEIHIN carb then you can calm it a bit by using the standard Dellorto PHBL26 BS or a cheap PWK type 24mm carb.

@whiskey I think you will have to make one yourself if you want one for a 125 with a Kokusan ignition John Shirts trialenduodirect.com used to sell flywheel weights for 125/200cc and the 225 but all that stuff is long over being supported . There is a thread on here from years ago that has the technical drawings to produce your own for a 125/200 running I think a Kokusan flywheel. The weight you need is around 320 g for a 125 interesting that a 200 needs approx 800 g. If I were you I would leave it without one and put a 24mm carburettor on it instead and also make sure your throttle tube is a black slow action one and not the fast action white one . Change the throttle to black if you have the white one and try that first. Putting a fly wheel weight on a 125 PRO makes it less fun, they are more suited to the 200/225 bikes IMO Good luck with whatever you do.

It used to be very common for people to position their shifter in a more upward position about 30 years ago, do what you like with the position of the shifter its a personal thing and if it works for you then it is a good change.

@Assgas there is one spring in a diaphragm clutch so the thicker the clutch pack the more pre load you have on the spring and so in theory the pull at the lever will be harder and the less chance of having clutch slip , as the clutch discs wear the pull should become easier because you have a Belville spring with less preload on it. If you have the wrong type of O rings on the clutch post ie not compatible with the type of clutch fluid they will expand and may cause binding which would make it a hard pull at the clutch lever.

@carlanthony663 There is an exploded view of that fork and part description list at www.thehellteam.com in Tech Support Gas Gas Info , choose GasGas parts books and then look in 1993 GasGas Trial Contact T Parts , Year 92 also shows that PAIOLI 36mm upside down fork .

@Adam1977 Go to www.thehellteam.com look in suspension in the Tech support GASGAS INFO page then go to - TECH forks then MANUAL-OIL-SEAL-CHANGE Trial SX and DX.

Go to www.thehellteam.com Look in CARB AND JETTING on the TECH SUPPORT PAGE - GASGAS INFO.

This is what I have used in the past MFA como drills 457RE540/1 MOTOR with mounting bracket 4.5 - 15 volt 15,800 rpm @ 12 volts www.mfacomodrills.com.

I cut the top off a GasGas pro sump/filler plug once and drilled it out through the allen head recess and that worked fine, do not tighten that bolt very much its about 4Nm torque if I remember correctly . Use a medium strength thread lock liquid.

Being that you are in the USA and have obviously never seen the SSDT in its complete form you can be forgiven for thinking that riders do not sit down for quite long periods of time on their bikes during the Scottish while riding on the road in between sections , although it is a fact that they do and always have. There is a lot of footage of the SSDT on the internet showing riders doing just that . We live and learn. As you say DL 12 is over 6ft tall and I think uses no bar risers and as far as I know uses a 4 1/2" rise bar . He is a 'croucher ' on the bike with very strong legs like most serious trials riders have. He obviously is not hindered by his taller than average for a trials riders height .

Not sure that its an advantage to be tall on a trials bike riding on the trail , overhanging tree branches will let the tall rider know that its not an advantage. If you are an Enduro rider it is an advantage to be tall for example Pol Tarres 6ft 7" who bailed on Trials competition and went over to the tall seat bikes scene. I know who I would rather be riding the Scottish Six Day Trial with all that road work to do on a trials bike , short legs fold up smaller than gangly long legs when you are sat on a trials bike.

i dont think there will be many , Trials riders are known to be a bit shy when it comes to spending money. I wish I had the money for one , the weight of them is the big draw . Enjoy it and buy yourself an AIROH helmet to go with it or you will keep falling over to one side or the other.

Your older trials bike is no different than a current trials bike in the way it feels when stood on it . You should support your self with your legs when stood on the pegs/footrests not lean on the handlebars while riding . if you are tall try using bar raisers or taller/higher bars .Use trials bars NOT MX ones if you do change them , you should also not grip the bars tightly or you will end up having arm pump. The usual way to ride trials bikes is one finger covering the front brake lever and one finger covering the clutch lever at more or less all times but of course you can ride it however you like its your life. The thing about trials bikes is they are designed for competing in trial competition only and they are not comfortable to ride on trails or on the road as they are not designed for that purpose you just have to adapt. If you are 5ft 6" tall then they will be much more comfortable , Bou and Jaime Busto are ideal size trials riders as on the trail they can stand up straight. and their centre of gravity is so much lower which is probably the reason that they are the top riders . If you are taller then unfortunately you need to bend your knees and crouch a little while riding and support yourself with a strong pair of legs.

@Jamiecollins03 Jim to the rescue , unfortunately the good die. He did it for you so rejoice in his life work of helping others FOC. https://youtu.be/PuUGLuUMmOs?feature=shared

The rear shock you have high lighted is one of them or they have a special offer on OHLINS SHOCK GG18330 with a choice of two spring weights for about £100.00 cheaper that will fit your bike , the OHLINS shocks are less heavily damped when set at minimum damping setting than the SACHS ZF {as they come from the factory} so if you like to have a pogo stick rear end for hopping the bike around then this is beneficial I have both shocks and there is a very noticeable difference between the two , the SACHS feels numb compared to the lively OHLINS. I much prefer the OHLINS myself but there is nothing wrong with the SACHS shock it works well. SPLAT SHOP can service your SACHS shock it will cost £174.95 + SHIPPING . As far as i know trials shocks are not just a one fits all but it will be possible to make certain ones fit between different munufacturers by making some changes , but in my opinion it just is not worth the hassle as the 2 X reasonably priced SHOCKS that are readily available to fit straight on the bike are all that is needed unless you are competing in the World Trials Champs. A top of the range REIGER 4 way shock will fit your bike but at a cost of £1,240.00 GBP it may be too pricey but its the best you will get . Good luck with whatever you choose to do.

The Sachs rear shock is rebuildable by people who know what to do but unless you know where there is a specialist that rebuilds other peoples shocks then it will be problematic OHLINS produce a rear shock that will bolt straight on your bike you just need to buy the correct spring for your weight if you are lighter or heavier than the standard spring that is fitted which is for a rider around the 75/80Kg mark , rebuild parts are available for the OHLINS and they are a well known brand so it is the best bet really. If you cannot find one in the USA then try SPLAT SHOP in the UK @ www.splatshop.co.uk , they have them listed for sale , they also may possibly be able to rebuild your original SACHS ZF unit for a reasonable price you will have to ask.

@dirtrider86 There are trials training videos all over YoutTube Pat Smage FactoryONE Motors , Ryan Young , GasGas Get on the gas with Albert Cabestany , cross training trials , trialstrainingcenter , mike haubrich , trials riding 101 Paul Brodies Shop, Trials Progression. Trials Progression is by a beginner from a beginners perspective so you may like to look at his videos as a starter as he explains how he set about his training not just how to execute a technique. enjoy yourself there is hours of the stuff on there.

I think it would depend on how old you are, how physically fit you are and most importantly how much money you intend to spend along with how easy it is to get the bike you want in the area/Country that you live in ?

The answer is to Google Marzocchi 40mm trial fork oil change You Tube or go to www.thehellteam.com in Tech support.

Google 12x19x3mm rotary seal and you will find a supplier.

If drag is a problem and you cannot obtain GRO 75w then try to get Motorex trial clutch oil as it has a similar effect

Hello first thing is to check you have fuel flowing properly out of the petrol tap, turn it to the off position then get a jam jar etc and get ready to put it below the fuel tap when you pull the fuel tube off it to catch the fuel then turn the tap to on and reserve positions to make sure fuel flows freely , if it is slow to flow then you need to take off the fuel tank and empty it before removing the tap and cleaning that thoroughly until fuel does flow freely. Also buy a new spark plug and some feeler gauges then set the plug gap to 0.7mm , next clean ALL the wiring connectors on the bike and make sure where a bolt connects a wire to the frame that it is clean of rust/corrosion and tight. Next thing is to clean the carburettor out very thoroughly and most importantly check the height of the floats/set the float arm position to ensure you have the correct amount of fuel in the bowl , you can find out how to do this on You Tube you probably have a Dellorto PHBL BS 26mm fitted so Google that to find plenty of information about it as its the most common trials carburettor. Hopefully after doing all these things your bike will run as its supposed to if not come back here to find out what the next step is. Good luck.

is that a mistake 80:1 mix in a motor that is air cooled ?