Tr1AL

It is more than likely carb related if it was running OK at some point and has since started running badly then it must have a blockage somewhere in a passageway that can be rectified by cleaning everything in a ultrasonic bath or hopefully fitting a new jet block gasket will cure it. Best of luck.

@scotta If you decide to change the part that lineaway is referring to it is called a jet block gasket. It sounds like it is a likely cause of your problems E10, E5 fuel is not helping gaskets I would think , Its best to use fuel with only 5% ethanol at most , even Shell v power 99 ron has about 5% so thats no help

@scottatake off fuel tap and take it apart and clean it, then flush out fuel tank , take off supply fuel pipe/tubing from tank to carb and blow it through if it has a in line filter make sure it flows well or fit a new one. make sure breather tubing on top body of carb is clear into upper chamber of float bowl. check float height is 19mm if your carb is Keihin PWK28 and make sure your float arms are not fouling on your brass in overflow pipe in the float bowl stopping it from moving downwards fully also make sure the needle valve that lets fuel into the float bowl is not sticking in its bore also make sure there is nothing in the inlet rubber that leads to the cage that holds the reed valve petals , best to take it off and make sure the petals are secure and closing properly and they are complete. Sounds to me like you have a slow / restricted supply of fuel to the float bowl causing a change in air/fuel ratio but it could be something other of course.

Yes but what i was referring to is that things can go wrong and they do. but as you say. It is up to you to reduce the risks and levels of hassle that may come your way. Current situation with BVM now is excellent as it was before I never had a problem there ever.

Yes I think you are correct.

@FailMasterI would recommend you try a 9/44 set up as you are light in the weight department you may find the taller gearing suits your riding style better , you wont recognise the bike its a different feeling altogether. If you wanted to try a 44t rear you will need 102 links in a chain , you should have 104 with a 48t . A cheap chain and rear sprocket can be had for £50 or buy used when possible just to test the set up and its considerably less' Whatever you decide to do enjoy your riding.

@jon v8There is no implication of being ripped off although Mark Kemp the founder of BVM Moto was a nice bloke I bought lots of bikes off him but ask some other customers what they think about him and you may get a different response if you know what that refers to. I think the main thing with distance buying is if anything unexpected does go wrong shortly after purchase the bike will need to go back to the seller and that is fine if they are willing to collect it and return it free of charge but if its not local to them what will they do. This is when a distance purchase can become more of a hassle than the buyer may have initially envisaged.

Steering rod /pin/ axle pulling upward through its hole in the lower triple tree ?.

You asked for an opinion. I have 40 years experience of trials bike ownership and have bought quite a few second hand ones in that time from dealers and privately but if you are not interested in what others have to say then that is your prerogative.

My own personal take on it is If you can fix anything on the bike yourself or have the money to pay someone closer to your location to fix it for you then have it delivered that is if they will email you their terms of business stating they give a 3 month or whatever engine gearbox guarantee before you hand over the money , If not buy as local as possible or it will just cause you grief if anything goes wrong. I know a person who bought a car from a dealer long distance and it had gearbox problems after a week of ownership and he rued the day he made that decision.

@godzillaI am sorry about misleading you , I did not read what the manual page said as I just assumed that some one would have proof read the stuff before it was put out there but of course we live in a world where people do their work when they have a moment when nothing interesting is happening on their camera that also happens to be a phone/laptop nowadays so you cannot trust anything you hear or read. Lesson learnt.

Fill the system slowly to avoid trapped air .

@godzillaAll the information is on the page you put in your post , just follow the instructions and you are done.

I had a problem once with fuel boiling and percolation , fuel evaporates in the float bowl , caused by a coolant hose touching against an aluminium fuel tank on a GasGas Pro the fuel got very warm and the bike ran erratically not as bad as yours sounds but it is just one for the pot and runs alongside a weakened mixture causing poor running?

Never heard of a Mick Andrews Tall boy do you mean a Sammy Miller Hi-Boy ?. I only mentioned it because of the Sammy Miller Honda connection and them being TL's.

https://youtu.be/TXYhZIiR0ek?feature=shared Topical

https://youtu.be/Bs2YTV_HLyg?feature=shared Music for Pleasure.

The frame number may be lying underneath the sticker try there if you want to investigate further , I think you are correct about the frame having been powder coated that is why it seems authentic 2007. Try scraping a bit of the coating off in an area that will not be seen easily and it should still be chrome I don't think they would have bothered stripping it back to steel before coating it although of course anything is possible. If you are thinking of putting a seal kit in your clutch master cylinder then have a very good inspection of the inside of the bore where the piston travels. Thoroughly wipe and clean it out first with a cotton bud sprayed with a little brake cleaner and if there is any scuffing, scrapes or scratches scratches then consider gambling on a second hand one or buying a new complete unit as the repair kit works out at around £30 inc p&p and if the bore is worn it may not be long before it starts leaking again as unlike a seal on the brake the clutch seal travel is almost half the length of the bore and is in use constantly while riding using modern techniques. I hope you enjoy riding your bike when you get going , if you struggle at first stick with it as when the break throughs come its a lot of fun.

@JimLepageTRP or OHLINS TRP I never saw one used for sale ever OHLINS for sale used fairly regularly approx 200 . Both cost 550 to 600 new

Very true ,

That is a mix of bikes , the complete motor going by the paint colour and finish is perhaps 2004 2005 or 2006 PRO MODEL and is in good outward condition for that age , the EDITION motor is a completely different engine pre PRO 2002 era that has its roots with several trials motorcycle manufacturers including JCM in the late 1980s , forks are aluminium stanchioned 40mm Marzzochi cartridge type more than likely 2007 . The frame is a painted earlier frame if it has that lug perhaps the sticker with the vin belongs to it , the way to check is to look on the other side of the steerer tube and the actual vin of that frame should be physically stamped into the metal. The OHLINS shock is not standard but was available on the Raga editions of the pro and is easily rebuildable so that is a good thing , original OEM shock is usually a SACHS ZF , the fuel tank is 2002 to 2006 with later plastic lighter fuel cap but. that tank would probably have had the earlier heavier aluminium fuel cap originally . Rear mud guard in red of that shape pobably 2003 to 2006 Exhaust looks like a 2007 on as the middle box and silencer are welded one piece which is a good thing better than the earlier 2 piece gunk drippers That is basically it as wheels brakes etc are the same on all the pros around that era. You can find most of the information you need about GasGas Pros at www.thehellteam.com under GasGas INFO. manuals etc . Also it is normal for the rear brake hose and EPDM brake fluid refill tube to run so close to the rear shock . Another thing if you have not got one , It is not in the pics You need the neoprene rubber sheet that sits near the top shock mount and goes under the rear of the fuel tank this is important as it keeps muck and water from being thrown into the air box inlet slot .

I had a 2007 it should have a H in the frame number if it is a 2007. 2002 frames differ from 2007 ones in that they have a welded mounting lugg with one hole in it that is absent on a 2007 this is located on the left hand rear frame top tube that sits next to the top shock mount support , the lugg is for the rear brake master cylinder reservoir plastic bowl and on an 02 the reservoir bowl is positioned at 45 degrees within the airbox cowling and can be seen through the triangular cut out on the left side of the airbox , 2007 reservoir sits on a thin metal tang clipped on to the anti vibration rigidity strut that is bolted to the rear cylinder studs. 2007 bikes had a more rigid thin gauge alloy fuel tank with a slightly higher profile that was anodised in a sort of dark brown metallic colour, earlier bikes had a soft aluminium thicker gauge alloy that was bright natural aluminium in finish like the one in your picture , another 2007 thing was the cylinder and head being painted in a dark grey gunmetal colour while earlier bikes are silver coloured.2002 motor has thin magnesium engine cases that by now will look a little corroded in some areas , 2007 has 1kg heavier aluminium cases and should still look outwardly quite good

There is the copy of the OKO and then a copy of the copy. The copy of the OKO sells for around £25 but oddly the copy of the copy sells for £30 upward .I have 2X £25 ones and the quality of the casting and spigots , screws etc are better than the genuine Keihin ones In my opinion , also you can fit genuine Keihin jets to tune them , the only major problem I have come across with those £25 carbs being the slide supplied and the only one available is approximately a 2 or 2.5 cutaway? and so needs grinding out to the same spec as a genuine Keihin 3.5 or it runs a bit rich but having said that can with the unmodified slide and suitable jetting run a good clean low idle for 10 mins or more without fouling a standard plug and with the air screw at 1 1/2 turns out. The only problem I had was with one of them dry sooting the plug due to poor sealing on the choke/starter piston rubber but after swapping it out for another cheap one from a 10 PIECE spares kit £13.98 it was cured. In my experience buying a cheap one saved me a lot of money for very similar results , 2 for the price of one and a voucher for a litre of expensive gearbox oil and a few other bits. Seems like a good deal to me.

That unfortunately is entitled competitive people for you , while you were a volunteer he was getting paid a good salary to be there , that was the bit that was not fair but Heh! . off on a tangent TTC looks like a great place for trials riders if you can get there, I only see it in the Ryan Young training videos but a lot of excellent terrain available , I wish it was on my door step..

@manwithgunWhen Adam Raga was a GasGas factory rider he just used to flick the lever out on a 300 pro and kick it into life violently without engaging the quadrant gear carefully first, but of course he was not paying the not insignificant sum of money for a new bart gear and idler gear after chipping all the teeth on them both.