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@Chillout1983 If you have not already seen this here is Toni Bou proving that trials riding is more about the rider and what he/she does than what bike is being ridden. https://youtu.be/yPLJn3IygAg?feature=shared My advice to you would be buy a 2 stroke 250cc around the £3000 pound mark then learn how to ride it well before you go anywhere near a pile of rocks or logs then go to youtube where there are scores of trials training videos as you probably already know. After a year or so of riding that bike like others have said you will be in a better place to try riding the 4RT that you are drawn to. Good luck with whatever you choose.

@Chillout1983 Everything depends on where you live and If you have any trials bike riding experience at all in the past even on a MTB messing around , Lots of people go out and buy a bike spend a fortune on the best boots , clothing and a helmet then go out for a ride fall off a few times scratch and scrape their bike then realise the bike does not do the work and it feels nothing like you thought it would when you have watched other people ride as they make it look easy , they probably started aged 6 and have ridden trials every week- end for over twenty years. If you let people on here know where you are in the World they can give you better advice on how best to start out without losing a lot of money if in the end you find that actually it is not for you . I am 61 and have ridden on and off since I was 17 . I personally would not advise you to start out on a Montesa 4RT unless you have previously ridden 4 stroke trail bikes dirt bikes off road regularly . Like I said what advice you need depends on what base you are starting from , your physical condition how much money you can afford to throw at it. what weight height are you , what type of trials riding are you inspired by , wobbling about on some easy sections at a club event or jumping up 5ft high steps on a hard route etc etc knowing all these things helps people to give the best advice especially on what bike and the motor capacity that may best suit you. Best wishes Alan.

These are obviously going to be the type of bikes that make it even possible for the sport to continue in the new world without polluting gasses but £10000.00 is just way off the mark for something that gets used once a month or whatever in the real world , they need to sell the motor/box/controller and battery as a kit that fits directly into say all 2011 on bikes for a start up period so that take up can look like a possibility for ordinary riders or it will be too long a transition period probably ending in failure of the electric trials bike in the market due too low take up as there will be few reasonably priced second hand bikes available for quite a long time , or are people much wealthier than I think they are.

@Assgas mcman56 probably has your answer , just cut 50% of your pad material off each pad with a cutting wheel or hacksaw to lower the amount of surface area causing friction while braking or buy a VERTIGO if the brakes are smooth , they use exactly the same brakes on most trials bikes ie BRAKTEC with the exception of BETA that use GRIMECA and so it must be down to set up or Pad material or the type of metal the actual disc is made of , I would not think that to be the case but obviously I could be wrong.

I read things like this on here quite often , the gear change lever is too far from my foot there is no comfortable seat available etc etc Competition Trials bikes are SPECIFICALLY designed to ride in trials competitions and are SPECFICALLY designed to have brakes that grab so that you can trick ride easily. If you want a play bike or trail bike then a modern competition trials bike is not the right bike to own. If you want brakes that do not work properly then you may find some aftermarket brake pads made in china that have garbage pad material or you could just buy a twin shock trials bike with drum brakes . Sintered brake pad material can take a while to bed in before it grabs you could try that.

@ nick1 You could try putting some washers/shims on the clutch spring bolts to preload the springs and make it push the clutch pressure plate more stronger on the clutch discs but really you need a new set of clutch discs to make the clutch pack thicker/wider.

I thought it might be a thicker grade of fluid in a fork like that , The BETA factory back in the 90s must of been next door to a plant machinery operator/hire place and they had a few barrels of AGIP OSO 46 that needed using up or perhaps it was cheaper than a barrel of AGIP 10W Fork oil.

@ lemur Unfortunately as you say that is the PRO clutch pack and the steel ring is the belville spring so it is of no use to nick1 . It would probably help him if he bought a new set of SURFLEX plates to have the correct pack thickness to start with for the old VILLA based bottom end and then go through the slave and master cylinder push rod set up to get it working plus try using a clutch /gear fluid that is less high tech , there cannot be much wrong with it.

@nick1 KUBOTA oils are made for them by REPSOL if that helps you in your country , Where are you living? You can buy mineral oil on ebay in the UK it is used to break in a new engine after rebuilding them for a while before changing it for full synthetic oil . One of them that you can buy is by a manufacturer called DRIVEN and the oil is called BR30 CONVENTIONAL 5W 30 , It costs £12.50 for a LTR but It may be expensive for the Courier to your address. I would probably try using AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID DEXRON III it is used by many people in a trials gearbox and clutch it should be easily available.

ENI OILS that is the new name for the old AGIP company still lists OSO 46 it is a anti wear hydraulic fluid used in plant machinery.

@bigboi Just a note as he says DO NOT tighten those clamps on the leg just lightly nip them up they are cast aluminium and are very fragile , there are no replacements available although they can be welded but as you are probably aware this can be very expensive these days if you can find some one willing to do it. The same goes for the axle clamping point on the right fork leg you MUST tighten them evenly and the same goes for that part just nip them up they are cast parts not cold forged so be careful.

@bigboi https://youtu.be/uWehB1_yv84?feature=shared Forget the GasGas bit its the same fork he is talking about , that fork was fitted on most makes of trials bikes at that time.

@bigboi The owners manual for the later Techno with the PAIOLI RSD fork states : 360 cc for both sides but has 5W in the RIGHT SIDE and AGIP OSO 46 in the LEFT SIDE whatever that is.

@bigboi I think your heavier spring will take care of your body weight , I would go with what was recommended for those forks in their era which was as follows : RIGHT SIDE (REBOUND)280cc 5W or 370cc 5W LEFT SIDE (SPRING) 330cc 7.5W 355cc 5W Test both and see how you like them.

@nick1 https://youtu.be/SKPCCsKOgr4?feature=shared mineral oil is mineral oil find some motor/engine oil 5W30 for a car engine and put 650 cc in your bike, The man in the video knew more than GasGas did about GasGas bikes. 1994 bike is a JT . A JTR is the 1996 model

Oh OK then , nevermind.

FRANCO MORINI BASED MOTOR shown in the txt boy parts book available at www.thehellteam.com has a stator magneto flywheel that looks exactly the same as one out of a KTM SX50 that are easily available on Ebay for between £30 to £40 , I am not saying it will fit straight on your version you would have to ask a seller to give you all the relevant measurements to see if it would.

If any one is looking for gaskets for a GasGas Contact , TX ,TXT pre PRO motor I just came across a NOS clutch casing gasket available on ebay UK the item # is 145867271780 the seller is First Racing , Norman Watt Motorcycles 151 Saintfield Rd BT27 6UG.

@miner Another thing you could look at is to check your air gap between the flywheel and the pick up it should be approx 0.6mm . Standard carb needle clip position is 3rd down from top. if you have a different setting I would try it standard. Fuel screw is 3 to 3.5 turns out usually.

@miner The timing is fixed on the pro the woodruff key gives the position on the crank and the pick up fixing plate gives no adjustment nor the stator plate. As you had this problem when you had the old ignition system fitted and now the brand new system is giving you similar results it may be better to look at things you did not replace, maybe try a different carburettor and also decoke the head combustion chamber and crown of the piston then polish it to a mirror finish. Make sure your coolant hose from the cylinder head to the top of the radiator is not touching the bottom of the fuel tank and set your cooling fan to run permanently when the ambient temperature is 40 C etc by putting a thick copper wire from the earthing bolt at the top of the frame on the exhaust side then put a bullet connector of the correct size on that wire and plug it to the female ended wire that comes off the little black box that is held onto the fan shroud by a small pozi drive screw. That is of course if you are running a standard 2007 model position thermostat fitted to the top right hand head of the rad and situated at the front side of the rad facing toward the front forks , also check your carbs float arms are set parallel to the edge of the carb body so that you have plenty of fuel in the bowl. There is still something that needs changing on your set up if you still have problems. starting and also kicking back , coked up piston and combustion chamber? . After all this buying a new ignition set up you have to keep going , it cannot be much of a big problem to solve the issue now. Regards Alan.

It does not need to be a UK parts schematic , find the part you want at thehellteam in the available parts lists and then find the relevant part number then phone John Shirts or any trials specialist shop in the UK and give them the part number and you may get lucky they may just have some old stock tucked away collecting dust or if you cannot find it in the UK look in Spain or France or wherever like every one else does when they own a bike that has been out of production for 20 years. It is possible to make your own gaskets as gasket material is available to buy in sheet form for cutting with a scalpel and O rings are freely available also .Failing that your only option is to buy a newer bike that has parts that are still available.

GasGas is no longer really GasGas the people who started the company no longer own it and the current owner KTM have no real interest in what went before they took over . Trials bike manufacturers in general usually have a cycle of around 10 years of servicing past models before parts start to go to the no longer available book due to a lack of demand. Parts books are still available luckily owing to the efforts of www.thehellteam.com a trials specialist , put Tech support GasGas Info into your search engine and you will get lots of information for most GasGas Trial bikes.

@thesaint your picture of the gold raga is of a later version than the 2009 about a 2011. The 2009 Raga should have unless changed by previous owners magnesium engine cases and clutch cover and a carbon fibre end casing affixed to the exhaust mid box all for quite a reduction in weight probably about 2 kg that is about the only major differences. The 2012 Racing has a revised swing arm linkage ratio and the rear end of the frame that supports the shock is revised to improve stiffness/strength Dougie Lampkin was involved in the development at this time if I am correct and so this is a plus for the 2012 bike , there are no magnesium bits on the racing AFAIK apart from this there is not much of a difference between the two that many people would really notice when riding . The 2012 racing may have Formula made brake master cylinders and calipers in place of the usual AJP/BRAKTEC , these were considered to be crap at the time oddly in my experience of a Formula front brake i had on a bike it was the best brake I ever had. The well admired TECH forks that are revered at present are made by Formula. If you do end up with Formula brakes then finding spare parts for them will probably be difficult and costly. That is about it really only other thing I can think of is the Airbox and rear mudguard which are completely different .

@hrc450 optimism is a cruel mistress , It was knocked out of me years ago , giving up now will make your recovery much shorter Terry , get well soon.

@whiskey I forgot to say If you have a 28mm KEIHIN carb then you can calm it a bit by using the standard Dellorto PHBL26 BS or a cheap PWK type 24mm carb.