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If you feel that you have covered all the bases and to no avail there is one more thing that you could try and that would be to clean the excess bonded material in the gaps between the clutch fibre pads the idea being to allow oil/fluid to move away from the fibre pads to reduce drag. For example use a scraper with a sharp edge such as the type available in a scalpel set. Good luck.

@andrewb 3mm thick sheet of aluminium cut to fit and bonded underneath the break point (Gorrilla Gel Superglue) and rivetted in all the best places to add the max possible strength. or find a second hand one in a breakers yard.

@larro OK if that is not a thing that may help the only thing that I can think of if you have the correct clutch pack thickness would be air bubbles in the hose that need bleeding out or failing/leaking seals in the clutch hydraulic system or there needs to be less free play between the lever and the clutch plunger pin(with a spring) that sits between the lever and the piston of the clutch master cylinder for example if you set the lever so that it can move as far out/away from the handle bar as it can be set by unscrewing the adjuster screw on the perch and then set the gap between the lever adjuster screw and the plunger pin to be the minimum possible you will get the max opening of the clutch plates possible to give the least amount of drag created by gearbox clutch oil/fluid for the throw of the lever , with this adjustment the pull at the clutch lever is the hardest on the finger , that is of course with all the other parts of the system working as when the system was new. Also did you try ATF dexron III which is less viscous almost like water or Perhaps VI which I think is used in the later Sherco motors. Hope you find a solution soon . Best wishes Alan.

That is a really bad leak , it is so bad it almost looks like it has been raining.

@stogga you could try taking a file to grooves if that is your problem , as a last resort of course

@larro If you can obtain it where you are you could try Motorex Trial gear oil , in my experience it is less draggy in a trials clutch than most of the others that are popular with the trials community.

@Chaz9462 I personally never had any problem removing the gear off the crank and I have done it many times , normally after removing the clip it just pulls off by hand , it looks like some one has been beating on that one which will probably have made it harder to remove as the edges will have spread , I would heat only the gear with gas/oxy or a heat gun then put a standard gear puller on it after putting something suitable in the hole in the crank. for the puller to push against. DO NOT USE THE CASING AS A LEVERAGE POINT ESPECIALLY NOT ON A MAGNESIUM CASE . IF YOU WARM WITH A GAS TORCH DO NOT LET THE FLAME NEAR THE MAGNESIUM FOR OBVIOUS REASONS .

if you know how to jet why are you asking what clip position . How are your brakes did the slots cut into the pads make your brakes not work properly.

www.thehellteam.com Tech Support Gas Gas Info. look in suspension and you will find the manual for an 82 version 35mm.

@PapaLazarou Hi its Dave , I have a block in my toilet.

Sorry I did not understand that . Please forgive me. Best wishes Alan.

How to go about doing things is all available on the internet , do your research first before attempting any jobs that you know nothing about , it is so much easier and there will be less chance of damage occurring.

It would be great if jetting were that simple as in reality there are many variables that need to be considered , this is why some people rave on about Efi but that has its own problems at times. To start with have you lifted the needle by lowering the clip into the slot down from where it was when you found it lean and tested that.

Its great when people go to all that effort and also explain succinctly. It sounds like you have no direct experience of the PRO version, to my mind they are a nice bike to ride but the gear box is a bit clunky after 3rd although with standard gearing through the sprockets being tall/high then if you ride UK closed circuit club trials 1, 2 and 3 cover most situations so it has not been much of a concern in my experience. The old contact models motor in the 1990's had a better feel to ride IMO even if they are quite a lot heavier although it did not stop people doing the trick riding the same as is done with the PRO version. No doubt you are probably right about the FACTOR-e box it would make sense not only as a weight saving design but to make a more compact casing also. Any way glad you found it as interesting as I did , all thanks to gravityisnotmyfriend YouTube. Best wishes Alan.

https://youtu.be/Rtv10YeKrsQ?feature=shared

@cedec96 First do this https://youtu.be/G55FU27Z9bU?feature=shared If that does not improve the shifting gear problem then you have to split the gearbox and check the bearings for wear that support the gear shafts then check the (in english) dogs (teeth)on the gear disc/wheel selector sliders and also the teeth of the actual gears themselves and the 'U' shaped selector forks need to be straight also. You need to check the selector drum slots for damage /wear and the 2x small bearings on selector shaft. If you split the engine it makes sense to just change all the bearings in there any way while it is in parts it is not much money to pay . Good luck . Best wishes Alan.

Buy a clutch and brake master cylinder made by BRAKTEC or AJP and a pair of APICO cold forged levers. Outrageous that die-cast levers are even fitted as standard on a new trials motorcycle.

What year is your BETA EVO.

@garydwall Obviously the thermostat switch that is best to use is the one it was fitted with when it was new by the factory who designed and made it. Parts books are easy to find on the internet.

@garydwall the inline one is the early version of the pro and the one located at the top of the radiator is the middle/ 2nd version of the series either will work but a 09 pro had the thermostat fitted in the radiator at the top right corner where the coolant enters the rad from the cylinder head but either will work. Later versions have the thermostat located at the bottom of the rad on the left hand side.

@Chillout1983 Of course you could just skip all that advice as the 4RT does look like a very capable bike. 'Remember this is your life and its ending 1 minute at a time'. Have fun. https://youtu.be/2ki4VgsRG8M?feature=shared.

@Chillout1983 If you have not already seen this here is Toni Bou proving that trials riding is more about the rider and what he/she does than what bike is being ridden. https://youtu.be/yPLJn3IygAg?feature=shared My advice to you would be buy a 2 stroke 250cc around the £3000 pound mark then learn how to ride it well before you go anywhere near a pile of rocks or logs then go to youtube where there are scores of trials training videos as you probably already know. After a year or so of riding that bike like others have said you will be in a better place to try riding the 4RT that you are drawn to. Good luck with whatever you choose.

@Chillout1983 Everything depends on where you live and If you have any trials bike riding experience at all in the past even on a MTB messing around , Lots of people go out and buy a bike spend a fortune on the best boots , clothing and a helmet then go out for a ride fall off a few times scratch and scrape their bike then realise the bike does not do the work and it feels nothing like you thought it would when you have watched other people ride as they make it look easy , they probably started aged 6 and have ridden trials every week- end for over twenty years. If you let people on here know where you are in the World they can give you better advice on how best to start out without losing a lot of money if in the end you find that actually it is not for you . I am 61 and have ridden on and off since I was 17 . I personally would not advise you to start out on a Montesa 4RT unless you have previously ridden 4 stroke trail bikes dirt bikes off road regularly . Like I said what advice you need depends on what base you are starting from , your physical condition how much money you can afford to throw at it. what weight height are you , what type of trials riding are you inspired by , wobbling about on some easy sections at a club event or jumping up 5ft high steps on a hard route etc etc knowing all these things helps people to give the best advice especially on what bike and the motor capacity that may best suit you. Best wishes Alan.

These are obviously going to be the type of bikes that make it even possible for the sport to continue in the new world without polluting gasses but £10000.00 is just way off the mark for something that gets used once a month or whatever in the real world , they need to sell the motor/box/controller and battery as a kit that fits directly into say all 2011 on bikes for a start up period so that take up can look like a possibility for ordinary riders or it will be too long a transition period probably ending in failure of the electric trials bike in the market due too low take up as there will be few reasonably priced second hand bikes available for quite a long time , or are people much wealthier than I think they are.

@Assgas mcman56 probably has your answer , just cut 50% of your pad material off each pad with a cutting wheel or hacksaw to lower the amount of surface area causing friction while braking or buy a VERTIGO if the brakes are smooth , they use exactly the same brakes on most trials bikes ie BRAKTEC with the exception of BETA that use GRIMECA and so it must be down to set up or Pad material or the type of metal the actual disc is made of , I would not think that to be the case but obviously I could be wrong.