Tr1AL

@lerk When you fit the front pipe/header into the mid box put some silicone grease on the 2X orange silicone rings and on the pipe so that the pipe can move around easily and when you fit the front/header pipe to the cylinder DO NOT have the Mid box mounting bolts tightened have them as loose as possible so that you can get the front pipe to enter the crush gasket and sit correctly then tighten the flange plate just enough to hold everything square the front pipe should be able to swivel at the joint , now tighten up the mid box support bracket bolts and then swivel the front/header into the best position to be close to the bike and leaving an even gap at the join where it enters the mid box and then tighten the 2X bolts at the flange plate.

@lerk If it bothers you take it off and flatten the flange plate again and this time do not over tighten it , if you overtighten joints you are more likely to have leaks because you are distorting things , Most of the time torque settings tables from the manufacturer and torque wrenches can help to avoid this.

Rear Shock rose joint/ spherical bearing in the shock eyes of a GasGas JT model is normally a GE12PW size ID = 12mm OD = 26mm W = 16mm .

There may be problems this year at ACU events , the organisers will become suspicious when Paul Melhuish wins all the classes at their next event and is also every competitor in the event..

No you can still buy new copies today. and its author still works on his monthly magazine 'Trials' .

Most people do these kind of things if they are honest , I make lots of mistakes daily when I already know better its frustrating but at least we rarely make the mistakes more than twice , hopefully. Have a good evening.

Hello, bearings usually have the size code stamped or lazer etched into the outer edge unless they are super cheapo ones. If you remove them you can check them to see if they have any on them.

@misterroy You may have a front brake lever that has no free play causing the brakes to drag then the heat build up expands the fluid and it cannot return to the expansion tank IE the brake reservoir which then uses the brake calliper as its route to expand and applies the brakes. Make sure you have free play of about 1 mm between the lever and the little metal plunger that goes into the rubber boot at the Brake reservoir that is clamped on the handlebar.

A chipped tooth on the kick quadrant or idler gear floating about in the clutch side is first stop as you obviously do not have to full strip the motor after that its loose bits floating about in the gearbox side it only needs to be some thing very small a chipped piece who knows , there is not a lot in a pro gearbox to cause this particular problem perhaps a problem in the shift drum , until its in bits I cannot think of anything that will lock the box solid like that other than loose bits in there.

Stop using it. Turn off the fuel , plug the tank breather tube with a bolt or whatever to stop fuel spilling while you move it around , Take the fuel tank off. and lay the bike on its left side as flat as possible then take off the clutch cover with the water pump still attached to the casing and with a piece of wire approx 30 cm long both ends bent into hooks place one hook in the bolt hole closest to the kickstart shaft hole and pull the casing out of the way and hook the other end of the wire up near the head stock IE onto the clutch hose where it enters the frame. Remove the clutch bolt in the centre off the clutch ihe one deeply recessed , make sre the allen key you use is a very good fit or you will round off the allen fitting and be in a real mess. Remove the clutch complete then take off the clips on the shafts and remove the gears so you can see if any loose bits of metal are in there use a small magnet to fish around in any oil pools. DO NOT LIFT THE BIKE UP during this process or you will have 500cc of oil on the workshop floor as the gear box oil is at present in the other side of the casing. If everything in there is in one piece with no loose parts floating about then Put it all back together , When you tighten the casing bolts as soon as they snugg up that is tight enough do not tighten these too much or you will regret it. If you found no floaters in that side of the casing that would jam things up then you need to SPLIT THE CASES and check the other side where the gear clusters and shift mechanism reside if you are not mechanically minded and do not have much of a tool kit then best leave it to a trials dealer. Good luck. Do not use the bike until you fix this or you may cause more damage .

Nothing will happen, i have run water cooled trials motors during the 1990.s at 100:1 and nothing happened and at 80:1 and nothing happened if you want to waste oil and your money then of course that is your prerogative.

Seriously that is way too much oil in the mix and is recommended in the manual purely because they have to warranty the bike for a short while and their oil manufacturing partner of that moment in time IPONE or which ever brand they do a deal with wants you to use as much oil as possible to make money , it is just wasting oil and your own money.

If you are going to use a TRIAL specific oil like ROCK OIL Strawberry or PUTOLINE Strawberry ETC then you can choose to put 65:1 , 70:1 , 80:1 , 100:1 take your pick any one of those ratios will work it depends how much you know about oil really . VERTIGO trials bikes run at near 200:1 so you are in a very grey area. If it were my bike I would go for 80;1 but you will probably find that you just opened a 'Can of worms'. The theory is the less oil you use the cleaner your EXHAUST SYSTEM will be for a longer period and as 2 strokes power output is affected by the design of the system IE the length and diameter of the header/front pipe and the volume and shape of the mid box and silencer and how the exhaust is packed with wire wool in the mid box and fibre glass string ETC in the silencer box then if it gets clogged with excessive amounts of un burnt oil that turns into caked carbon deposits then it will alter the way that the motor delivers the power. You would not want to run your particular bike at 200;1 but 100:1 would not hurt it with modern oils, 80:1 is the being safer ratio.

@Tootsie If you are planning on keeping your bike for a long time you could have a fabricator make you an aluminium tank using an old second hand one from an early pro as the base then cut the top off your ruined plastic tank to use as a cover over the aluminium tank for aesthetic purpose.

https://youtu.be/JS7H6Gts9ik?feature=shared

@bikerpetObviously I do not know exactly what you are doing but going by what you say it sounds like you are trying to cram too much packing in there , the silencer neads to absorb the sound wave so the packing should be fairly loosely packed not solid or the gases will just pas through as if it is a piece of solid tubing , perhaps thats why it sounds louder than before.

sjtrials.com latest news for very brief video of this KTM version. go to bottom of home page at useful links for the latest news

Here is a starter https://youtu.be/c7HJZHFH3gA?feature=shared

I would say that If you want to learn modern four stroke technique then watch and study Toni Bou Videos and listen to the sound of the motor and watch how he negotiates differing obstacles and terrain then go out and replicate it.. Toby Martyn is another to watch in FIM WTC or British Trials Champs. 2 stroke motor technique is similar but different.

@Branny Beta OEM is usually a Mikuni carburettor. you cannot go wrong with blanking that hole on the VHST carb you have fitted to your Beta as it is only for use with bikes that have the exhaust mid box on the right hand side of the bike for example a GasGas.. just plug it with something .

I do not think that what average running temperature the transmission oil in a Trials motors gearbox is matters in relation to the viscosity of the oil tested at 100 C is . lemur is I think suggesting that this viscosity test is not therefore a good metric because the gearbox oil does not get to 100 C , but when the clutch has been slipped and thrashed for example starting off from a standstill heading up a hill in very muddy conditions the oil will likely be around the 100 C for a while between the plates so has some relevance , the viscosity of the brands mentioned @ 40C follow the same pattern of viscosity so will give a theoretical idea of what brand with a 75W rating could give you less drag in your bikes clutch when it is set up exactly as it should be to operate as it was designed to.

You could check your stanchion is not bent before ordering the bushes , It is unlikely but there are a quite a few possible reasons these things happen.

If the seals still leak after you change the seal it is usually the bushes that need changing, to make sure this is not the case then do the seal clean tool and if that does not stop it try putting another new seal in it . If you do not fancy changing the bushes., Perhaps your fork seal lip spring has broken during fitting or it got ripped when you put the Stanchion in Also it may have pin hole in it near the lip etc.

Hello again @DavidSweden you will need a blind hole bearing puller or home made expanding type tool to grip the inner surface of the bush bearing then apply heat to casing around the part to help extract it

Make or buy a tool a tool like a ' Motion Pro Fork seal mate' cleaning tool and slide it down the gap between the seal and the chromed or NON STICK surface treated STANCHION of the leaking seal and slide it round the entire inner part of the seal and see if that stops it leaking , if it still leaks then you need to take it all apart again and this time fit new top and bottom bushes and also fit a new seal just to eliminate the possibility of the other seal that you already fitted having a problem , trust me on this I have spent my life working on bikes .cars, trucks and it could just stop you from having to strip it down a third time and so it will be worth every penny of extra expense