Tr1AL

Hello there I am back again, glad you like the referenced YouTube suspension stuff. I just messed with a Floating disc recently as it had too much play in it for my liking . About 15 years ago I managed to get some floating disc spacers that a trials enthusiast had made to closer tolerances out of bronze or something similar and they were perfect with sideways movement only so no clunky feel when slamming on the brake to hop the back wheel sideways or clanking noise , sadly these are no longer available. EM is headed by one of the two original French SCORPA founders that parted ways to form EM the other started SHERCO and so with that connection you have EM buying in SHERCO/SCORPA (same owner) swing arms and side stands and other things from the SHERCO/SCORPA PARTS BINS. the front hubs on your EM bike probably carry spanish made NG discs that will fit other makes of trials bikes as the BRAKTEC Front calipers used to compliment them are commonly fitted on most trials bikes as standard and will fit OLLE/R16V forks as they do TECH. With this being the case your EM discs will have floating disc spacers the same as used on the SHERCO/SCORPA and GASGAS bikes. If you want to buy new ones then JITSIE make them to fit but these in my recent experience have a lot of slop and I was using a brand new NG disc so everything new no wear . In the end I bought a NG made fixed disc (will fit straight on most front trials hubs that use a floating disc) that was used on the 2002 GASGAS TXT PRO model and it works great with ZERO slop but of course if you crash and bend the disc you will have problems as the fixed disc has no easy side movement like a floating one. Hope that helps you sort things out. If you do not like the amount of movement in your floating discs then you could try to get some one with a machine shop to make some disc spacers that have a closer tolerance in your discs. Hope that helps now or in the future. Regards Alan.

Here is more suspension stuff if any one is interested https://youtu.be/-hwRHfAzpE8?feature=shared

Or should I say One had a top 3 rider on board at the WTC and the other went there as an after thought with a fairly good rider but too late to make a difference.

They may have thought after their last efforts what would be the point in producing a trials bike in an already saturated and established market unless the company were prepared to pay for a top three Rider to compete in the World Championship , some serious cost to cover there obviously. As an example Tarres made the Jotagas with one of the two people who started the GasGas brand but there was no financial support available to fund a team to compete in the WTC with say Raga as their rider and as a result no real interest was generated for the brand especially after Tarres departed because he could not get interest to take the bike to the WTC and help market the machine , as a comparison look what happened with the other bike Tarres went off and built when he got the financial backing he needed. Its not because the TRS is a much better bike than the JotaGas as both are basically a GasGas Pro but made to look different Theres a picture out there somewhere on the net of Tarres in his house with a actual GasGas Pro using car designers modelling clay and bits of cardboard etc to sculpt the JotaGas Proto type over the top of it Both the JotaGas and TRS motors are so clearly derived from the Pro motor when you take them apart that they both are just basically GG pros with a few tweeks wearing different clothes. but one flew and the other disappeared into the ether basically down to serious marketing vs not much marketing.

@stu109 https://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/66257-evo-300-4t-fuel-issue/page/2/ Take note of the point about failure leading to carb flooding. I am not saying that this is your problem just that it may be worth checking the solenoid function to eliminate it from the investigation.

Great! obviously its not my doing I just know where to look . If you need SHERCO Info/parts go to splatshop.co.uk and ask to speak to Chris Pearson he has a lot of knowledge about their bikes. Best wishes Alan.

@WIX-ONE You will have to buy a spring specifically made for your shock in the majority of cases .After market springs to fit some manufacturers shocks are available from JITSIE.COM. Go to splatshop.co.uk and search in suspension under performance parts if you look at ohlins shocks you will find a chart that gives you the right type spring for rider weight. I think EM uses OLLE produced R16V rear shocks so OLLE SUSPENSIONS website is maybe where you need too look if thats what is on your bike.

@WIX-ONE https://youtu.be/XjoCGos1l44?feature=shared

There is a modification to the fuel tank petcock that was recommended at the time to stop the carb giving a a lean condition this is done by removing the petrol tap from the tank taking off all its gaskets and then pull off the filter gauze underneath it sits a plastic tube, this tube needs 6mm cut off it and then make sure the cut end is open for flow of fuel then replace the gauze filter and put everything back together before fitting back on the tank , alternatively just always use the bike with the fuel tap set to the reserve position. All this information is available at SHERCO USA.COM

Dellorto PHBL 26BS carb on a 125 2004 = SLIDE 60 NEEDLE CLIP 3RD DOWN FROM TOP MAIN JET 122 CHOKE JET 09 PILOT JET 36 FUEL SCREW 4 TURNS OUT NEEDLE D36 FLOAT HEIGHT 18.5MM NEEDLE JET 270K STANDARD SPROCKETS 9 FRONT 44 REAR

As an observation if a spanner fits a bolt head or nut and loosens/tightens the thing without damaging it/them it being metric or imperial is irrelevant. In my garage I use whatever gets the job done.

@LaVern Too clarify what I mean I will just say that the Worlds best Trials riders did not get where they are by worrying about damaging their bikes.

@Chillout1983 My advice if you are scared too use your bike because it may get damaged would be to sell it and buy an older bike that is cheaper and that already has scratches and scrapes all over it and then go and concentrate on riding in the knowledge that you will not be upset if the bike gets damaged if you crash it. This way you can enjoy trials riding instead of worrying about your precious , unless of course it is what things look like that is more important to you than your riding. Old scratched up bikes do not have to be bad mechanically just rebuild it , replace with new the bits that actually matter put brand new brake parts on it , new clutch etc replace the seals and all the bearings , a bike that works like a new one but can be thrown on the ground without any tears is such a liberating feeling . I like to keep this in mind always " The things you own end up owning you". Enjoy your riding Best wishes Alan.

I thought you may get an enormous amount of interest in that idea , I will guess that the price they would be willing to pay would be £25 to £30 and that is not a joke , considering that alot of owners of old trials bikes use them very rarely which can also be true of the newer bikes aswell. From what Dougie Lampkins recent Open letter states even the ACU have little interest in the sport at present , Its a bit slow at the moment but I suppose younger people that could potentially be interested in Trial sport have more pressing things to do in the modern world like trying to survive in an increasingly hostile environment . Fingers crossed after the madness caused by mass movement of people around the world stabilizes it may be like starting again from the 1940's with people that take an interest in Trials making home brewed specials and having a bit of fun again.

Looked great.

Available @ Splat Shop £230.00 new , fits 2001 to 2016 or are you asking the members on here if they want clutch baskets for their old bikes and if so you will have some made and sell them.

In the past I have had long and short S3 front pipes on GasGas motors and experimented with different set ups and the length of a piece of tubing makes a difference to the way the motor behaves but not massively on their own as other tweeks need to be done like carbs and such too make a really noticeable difference. If you are expecting one without making other mods to make a radical difference you would probably be a little underwhelmed and the only way you will know is if you buy one and fit it to your own bike . Weight saving used to be the main reason to fit one when they first became available. As with everything its a case of how much money have you got to splash about. . They make more of a difference than reed petals do in my opinion to make some kind of comparison.

You can ride modern trials on the FANTIC . https://youtu.be/JXGbGnFuqvo?feature=shared

Don't take it personally about the normal thing it was me that prompted you to use the word normal in what I posted , probably because I am old and as we are talking specifically on a trials motorcycle forum about a 2 stroke engine then I tend to talk about the bikes including what used to be the norm which was a longer reach plug , if you go back to the 1980's you wont find too many 2 stroke trials motors using a short reach plug which is a relatively new thing in the trials bike world . Outside of 2 stroke trials motors of course a long reach plug should not be referred to as a normal type , al though having said that I must say every petrol engined van or car that I ever owned in my 61 years never had a short plug fitted and so perhaps I can excuse myself for calling long reach the normal ones. Enjoy riding your bike. Regards Alan.

TRS make a trials bike that is called the GOLD model which is their BLING version and if my understanding is correct the stuff that konrad put up for you has within its contents an explanation of what the problem is , basically the GOLD version has a fuel tank underside design that will clear the long plug but the standard version of the TRS models needs a short plug because the fuel tank will not fit with the long plug type low comp gold coloured head insert as that version of the bike needs a head insert that uses the short plug , It is mentioned in there somewhere that it is possible to buy an ultra low profile rubber plug cap to fit the HT lead that means you can use the normal long type plug and then the standard version models fuel tank will fit properly. Its probably best if you go back and read the whole of the thread that konrad sent you and check what every post says.

If you click on the picture that konrad put in his reply all the information you require is in the post put up by a member using the name jer with splat shops on line shop selling the S3 head inserts.

DEXRON III if you are using ATF , its tried and tested for decades in competition Trials bikes.

@ChrisCH just FYI EFi Trials bikes also now include SHERCO/SCORPA and of course the HONDA Montesa 4RT was EFi before the rest. not including the 2nd to use it OSSA TRi bikes as they are no longer in production.

Different weigh ins giving differing weights . No mention of actual fuel weight in each bikes fuel tank makes for an odd comparison but interesting never the less. https://youtu.be/33Jufv5pto4?feature=shared

@ teamferret Which Championship are you speaking of , I say this because a control tyre would only be seriously considered by an oganisation such as the ACU or AMCA for higher level events and in this situation they would have to pick from tyres that were already in production and based on what you are suggesting then they would probably be choosing between a MITAS or PIRELLI to meet your preference of a budget tyre as other alternatives that gave less traction than a MICHELIN or IRC such as MAXXIS and HEIDENAU would be too expensive. As far as riding at club level is concerned as Faussy said there are control tyres already in place and as such the clubs use different levels of severity of sections in their events to give a fair chance in competition to people with differing skill levels. If you are struggling to pay for good tyres perhaps you should search out some part worn cast offs from a supported rider .I have bought plenty through the years to use for practising some have been almost like new but half the price. Having a spare pair of cheap wheels means you can keep your good wheels built up with your expensive new tyres and use them only for competition while you use part worn or cheaper tyres for practising.