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Adam Raga has made his feelings clear about losing his TRS seat to a cheaper Pilot for the coming 2024 season of the WTC with his new single Lost on you. The message seems to be loud and clear to former mentor and friend Jordi Tarres that he is not very impressed with his former employers choices. https://youtu.be/wDjeBNv6ip0?feature=shared

Not so sure about poor implementation more like savages with no mechanical sympathy trashing great ideas. Light weight brings with it fragility , the gearbox is designed for the max 300cc , you have a 125cc that is also the base for the 200 = 172cc and the 225cc conversion which uses the TXT PRO 250cc barrel/jugg with 5mm machined off the top and utilizing the edition earlier model TX motor 250 cc piston with the 16mm wrist/gudgeon pin in place of the pro 250cc piston with a 18mm wrist pin hole to go with the 16 mm 125cc connecting rod small end also Standard compression 250 cc TXT PRO head and 1mm aluminium head spacer with HYLOMAR blue sealant on a do it yourself job . As regards bad engineering search for Xiu R&D , he is a innovator with great ideas , unfortunately he failed to take into consideration your average beast and their ability to destroy things. Pro F1 driver 78 laps and some scuffing to the tyres and floor plank . The BEAST no laps did not even set off , burnt the clutch out at the start line because of poor engineering design.

Silencer rubbing the tire fix is add spacer or washers at the rear shock mount bracket to push the silencer away from the tyre and then file the spire U nuts clip down a bit for clearance to the silencer and also dent the silencer in the area near the clip to help clearance and cut off 3mm or so off the set screw so that it does not dig into the silencer V MAR adaptor is the perfect fix to the bad OEM choice of fix for VHST dellorto designed airbox rubber fitment AS IN THE SHORT ILL FITTING DONUT RUBBER ? to PHBL 26BS , you can get a more secure set up with this by fitting an orange silicone front pipe exhaust gasket between the V MAR adaptor and the dellorto PHBL 26 BS also if you heat the airbox rubber with a heat gun and push it toward the right front side of the airbox and place a standard wine bottle cork in the gap between them then leave it positioned in there it will hold the rubber in a good position to enable easy location between airbox and carb adaptor when fitting the airbox to the frame mounts. In the UK heat up the airbox rubber with a heat gun and force a LYNX deodorant tin into the airbox rubber outlet to get the correct diameter to fit the rear of the carb , leave it in there until the airbox rubber is cold and then remove it , The plastic it is made of shrinks with age but you can fix it with the heat gun and improvised tools like the lynx aerosol tin. Note do not leave the foam air filter in the airbox if using a heat gun on the airbox rubber or you may lose £15 or so in the ensuing melt down.

This may help https://youtu.be/tB_bFTSqaBk?feature=shared Jim Snell Trials parts USA MKII.

Just an add on , if you use DOT4 in a clutch or brake M/C the seals and any feed tubing will normally be made of EPDM , if you want to use mineral oil the seals will normally be FKM more commonly known as Viton.

@iank The use of mineral oil is to stop the contamination by Dot4 of the gearbox oil and the possibility of any nitrile seals/ clutch parts being damaged in there if the O rings in the slave fail , the clutch slave cylinder sits in the clutch casing and its a wet clutch so it is best to use mineral oil, I just converted an old DOT4 setup to mineral oil on a Gas Gas pro for that very reason.

@DavidSwedenIts a very quick job , it should only take you a minute or two. https://youtu.be/BqccnNejZbY?feature=shared

It is more than likely carb related if it was running OK at some point and has since started running badly then it must have a blockage somewhere in a passageway that can be rectified by cleaning everything in a ultrasonic bath or hopefully fitting a new jet block gasket will cure it. Best of luck.

@scotta If you decide to change the part that lineaway is referring to it is called a jet block gasket. It sounds like it is a likely cause of your problems E10, E5 fuel is not helping gaskets I would think , Its best to use fuel with only 5% ethanol at most , even Shell v power 99 ron has about 5% so thats no help

@scottatake off fuel tap and take it apart and clean it, then flush out fuel tank , take off supply fuel pipe/tubing from tank to carb and blow it through if it has a in line filter make sure it flows well or fit a new one. make sure breather tubing on top body of carb is clear into upper chamber of float bowl. check float height is 19mm if your carb is Keihin PWK28 and make sure your float arms are not fouling on your brass in overflow pipe in the float bowl stopping it from moving downwards fully also make sure the needle valve that lets fuel into the float bowl is not sticking in its bore also make sure there is nothing in the inlet rubber that leads to the cage that holds the reed valve petals , best to take it off and make sure the petals are secure and closing properly and they are complete. Sounds to me like you have a slow / restricted supply of fuel to the float bowl causing a change in air/fuel ratio but it could be something other of course.

Yes but what i was referring to is that things can go wrong and they do. but as you say. It is up to you to reduce the risks and levels of hassle that may come your way. Current situation with BVM now is excellent as it was before I never had a problem there ever.

Yes I think you are correct.

@FailMasterI would recommend you try a 9/44 set up as you are light in the weight department you may find the taller gearing suits your riding style better , you wont recognise the bike its a different feeling altogether. If you wanted to try a 44t rear you will need 102 links in a chain , you should have 104 with a 48t . A cheap chain and rear sprocket can be had for £50 or buy used when possible just to test the set up and its considerably less' Whatever you decide to do enjoy your riding.

@jon v8There is no implication of being ripped off although Mark Kemp the founder of BVM Moto was a nice bloke I bought lots of bikes off him but ask some other customers what they think about him and you may get a different response if you know what that refers to. I think the main thing with distance buying is if anything unexpected does go wrong shortly after purchase the bike will need to go back to the seller and that is fine if they are willing to collect it and return it free of charge but if its not local to them what will they do. This is when a distance purchase can become more of a hassle than the buyer may have initially envisaged.

Steering rod /pin/ axle pulling upward through its hole in the lower triple tree ?.

You asked for an opinion. I have 40 years experience of trials bike ownership and have bought quite a few second hand ones in that time from dealers and privately but if you are not interested in what others have to say then that is your prerogative.

My own personal take on it is If you can fix anything on the bike yourself or have the money to pay someone closer to your location to fix it for you then have it delivered that is if they will email you their terms of business stating they give a 3 month or whatever engine gearbox guarantee before you hand over the money , If not buy as local as possible or it will just cause you grief if anything goes wrong. I know a person who bought a car from a dealer long distance and it had gearbox problems after a week of ownership and he rued the day he made that decision.

@godzillaI am sorry about misleading you , I did not read what the manual page said as I just assumed that some one would have proof read the stuff before it was put out there but of course we live in a world where people do their work when they have a moment when nothing interesting is happening on their camera that also happens to be a phone/laptop nowadays so you cannot trust anything you hear or read. Lesson learnt.

Fill the system slowly to avoid trapped air .

@godzillaAll the information is on the page you put in your post , just follow the instructions and you are done.

I had a problem once with fuel boiling and percolation , fuel evaporates in the float bowl , caused by a coolant hose touching against an aluminium fuel tank on a GasGas Pro the fuel got very warm and the bike ran erratically not as bad as yours sounds but it is just one for the pot and runs alongside a weakened mixture causing poor running?

Never heard of a Mick Andrews Tall boy do you mean a Sammy Miller Hi-Boy ?. I only mentioned it because of the Sammy Miller Honda connection and them being TL's.

https://youtu.be/TXYhZIiR0ek?feature=shared Topical

https://youtu.be/Bs2YTV_HLyg?feature=shared Music for Pleasure.

The frame number may be lying underneath the sticker try there if you want to investigate further , I think you are correct about the frame having been powder coated that is why it seems authentic 2007. Try scraping a bit of the coating off in an area that will not be seen easily and it should still be chrome I don't think they would have bothered stripping it back to steel before coating it although of course anything is possible. If you are thinking of putting a seal kit in your clutch master cylinder then have a very good inspection of the inside of the bore where the piston travels. Thoroughly wipe and clean it out first with a cotton bud sprayed with a little brake cleaner and if there is any scuffing, scrapes or scratches scratches then consider gambling on a second hand one or buying a new complete unit as the repair kit works out at around £30 inc p&p and if the bore is worn it may not be long before it starts leaking again as unlike a seal on the brake the clutch seal travel is almost half the length of the bore and is in use constantly while riding using modern techniques. I hope you enjoy riding your bike when you get going , if you struggle at first stick with it as when the break throughs come its a lot of fun.