Tr1AL

Here is another www.bjracing.com look under Vintage Trials Yamaha

Here is a starter for you https://www.yamahaty.com/english/tyusineen/majestyen.html

Here is interesting information for comparison Dexron Vl or Dexron 6 is 6.4 @ 100C , While this next one is the big surprise Motorex Trial 75W Gear oil specially developed for the new KTM GasGas GP box / wet clutch has a viscosity of 14.2 @ 100C . I have put the Motorex Trial specific oil in a pre KTM GasGas Pro and the Clutch was a little draggy under normal use with it adjusted correctly with the usual on/ off action. So if you are looking for less drag then Putoline GP 10 would be the best bet in theory.

Hello John good luck with your return , I think your choice of bike is a good one , It was my second trials bike ownership when I was 17 years old and they have a surprising amount of power for such small displacement having said that the Fantic 200 was of course only a 156cc but was a good bike in its time also. It is good to have excitement in life at any age so here is to that . This may be of interest to you http://www.bsaotter.com/nick_draper_the_return_and_ty_yamaha_s.html

Localised heat to inner bearing race of main bearing , oxy acetalene welding torch or use of a case splitter tool home made or ready made ?

As you are used to the Yamaha TYZ motor in the Scorpa I think you may find that the Beta 200 feels equal too it in terms of power output as motors have been developed for more power and better response than back then because of the obsession now with going up great big steps , at 13 stone I think you will find it plenty powerful for your needs /likes . Enjoy whatever you choose.

How much you weigh is a factor if you are choosing an engine size on a trials bike if you weigh 17 stone go for a 250/300 , If you are 12 stone or less 125/200 is plenty of power for riding the easy white route. There have been younger riders that have completed the Scottish 6 Days on 125cc bikes in recent times , 200cc has much more power and torque to do what you need it to do , If you are wanting to do road trials/National events sometime in the near future you might want to consider a 250cc.

Alfonso will need to show you the white easy route in the UK , Riding in between the sections to get to them on that route is usually the challenging part.

You really are in Trials central, best place to be if you want to ride rock as well. Good luck.

In case you do not know it has an allen key fitment inside to tighten it.

If you will be riding a lot of muddy venues and you are interested in messing about with your bike then these things matter but the newer version will be fine , you just have to adapt to the way the bike is set up in any case so it will not be an issue , in mud use a black domino throttle tube and in the dry use a white throttle tube , they only cost about £17. If you ride mud Use an IRC Rear tyre in place of a Michelin or Dunlop.

It does not need any sealant or PTFE just the new washer put some copper slip on the threads before re assembly for future easy removal Do not go mad tightening it it does not need to be super tight to seal , just nip it up.

They changed the way the stator and Fly wheel is positioned in its housing for reasons of gyro effect and this means that adding fly wheel weights has changed. People dont like change on the whole but there are'nt really any other major changes to the bike , Buy an older version if it is bothering you.

My advice is buy it , Beta Trials bikes are made for the club rider and If you are riding easy white route you will be completely over biked so you will have plenty in reserve as far as power and the bikes technical ability and they are a cheaper option with fairly good spare parts availability they have a steep steering head aswell so turning tight is easier.

You are absolutely right of course but it is probably just less than a teaspoon of oil burbling about in a very thin bit of tubing on an old trials bike that can be used for years in that condition if only ridden once a month like a lot of people do owing to work/family commitments. Its not really worth rebuilding the motor just to try and stop that happening when the motor will happily run for 4 hrs at a time for a practice or competition session without problem.

i have experienced the same with the correct oil amount and everything as it should be and i just fitted a long piece of tubing that ran up to area above the fan shroud and the oil did not syphon up and out the tube it just moved up sometimes and then drained back into the case when the pressure in the case reduced. Here is something interesting not a GasGas obviously but shows it is a thing . https://youtu.be/V_RoMVsMDkg?feature=shared

TYRELL CORPORATION 'More human than human' we are no computers Sebastian.

You can use a helicoil insert to repair the stripped thread at a fraction of the cost of a new part.

Go to www.the hellteam.com user and parts manuals choose 2004 pro in each one. In the parts book scroll down to page 22 and you can see how the linkage parts are positioned for assembly. In the user manual scroll down to page 7 to see a photo of the linkage from underneath the bike. 2004 linkage is more or less the same design as all the other years except I think the latest 23 KTM remake bikes.

Approx £1700.00 , a Termignoni Sticker/ Decal is a lot cheaper with probably similar results but some people like shopping and of course that is their business.. Trials riding is more about Techniques used than the actual bikes as can be seen by watching the video 'Taming the Beast by Toni Bou' where he rides a Africa Twin over some trials stuff , to be fair the bike is fitted with a Termignoni exhaust.

www.termignoni.it

The mudguards frames are not exactly the same so it may fit with a bit of modifying but I personally doubt it would be a direct fit www.dherbeymoto.com a Trials motorcycle specialist shop in France has one for sale at 92.30 Euros to directly fit your 04 French Scorpa TYS F 4 stroke Yamaha motor 125/175 . it is 92.30 Euros. and is called a Selle Randonnee longue . You could also try www.birkettmotosport.com based in Broughton in Furness in the UK . Nigel Birkett is the sole UK importer of Scorpa trials bikes.

When the motor is hot and it will not start try using choke with NO throttle , if it does not start within 3 kicks then abandon that as it will just wet the plug and render it impossible to start . It is worth a try It used to work on my GasGas PRO of around that era when it would not start when hot. Good Luck.

@PatMc Take the plug out and check its condition then clean it with a fine wire brush like you would use for cleaning suede shoes and blow it clean , make sure you get in the gap between the insulator and the part that is threaded on the outer surface. make sure the gap is 0.6 and the plug is a BPR5ES or Champion etc equivalent or a NGK Iridium BPR5 EIX. If the bike starts after you clean it and it was black in colour dry or wetish then you are probably running too rich a mix as in more fuel to air than the usual 14.7 ish air to 1 part fuel ratio This causes the plug to foul and your spark will be poor. If you have a Dellorto PHBL 26 BS carburettor then the fuel screw should be approximately 3 turns out from lightly closed by turning clockwise., turning anti clockwise adds fuel. check your pilot/slow jet and your main jet size are the recommended ones for your local weather conditions and elevation relative to sea level . Also make sure your filter is clean and not over oiled. Clean all electrical connectors and tighten bolts that have earth connectors. check wiring where it has crimped connectors etc. Take off the rubber plug cap by screwing it anti clockwise and check the condition of the coarse screw thread in the rubber plug cap and the core wire in the thick black HT cable that comes from the coil is able to make good contact with the plug cap core.

@cloo00 As you thought the spring is not spare it has fallen off in storage .there should be a spring on both sides. be very careful not to damage it when you put it back on use an improvised tool something conical to help expand the spring evenly then offer it up the seal hole and roll it up into position over the seal lip. This is what you need https://youtu.be/2MX-PBZkVR0?feature=shared