Tr1AL

It does not need any sealant or PTFE just the new washer put some copper slip on the threads before re assembly for future easy removal Do not go mad tightening it it does not need to be super tight to seal , just nip it up.

They changed the way the stator and Fly wheel is positioned in its housing for reasons of gyro effect and this means that adding fly wheel weights has changed. People dont like change on the whole but there are'nt really any other major changes to the bike , Buy an older version if it is bothering you.

My advice is buy it , Beta Trials bikes are made for the club rider and If you are riding easy white route you will be completely over biked so you will have plenty in reserve as far as power and the bikes technical ability and they are a cheaper option with fairly good spare parts availability they have a steep steering head aswell so turning tight is easier.

You are absolutely right of course but it is probably just less than a teaspoon of oil burbling about in a very thin bit of tubing on an old trials bike that can be used for years in that condition if only ridden once a month like a lot of people do owing to work/family commitments. Its not really worth rebuilding the motor just to try and stop that happening when the motor will happily run for 4 hrs at a time for a practice or competition session without problem.

i have experienced the same with the correct oil amount and everything as it should be and i just fitted a long piece of tubing that ran up to area above the fan shroud and the oil did not syphon up and out the tube it just moved up sometimes and then drained back into the case when the pressure in the case reduced. Here is something interesting not a GasGas obviously but shows it is a thing . https://youtu.be/V_RoMVsMDkg?feature=shared

TYRELL CORPORATION 'More human than human' we are no computers Sebastian.

You can use a helicoil insert to repair the stripped thread at a fraction of the cost of a new part.

Go to www.the hellteam.com user and parts manuals choose 2004 pro in each one. In the parts book scroll down to page 22 and you can see how the linkage parts are positioned for assembly. In the user manual scroll down to page 7 to see a photo of the linkage from underneath the bike. 2004 linkage is more or less the same design as all the other years except I think the latest 23 KTM remake bikes.

Approx £1700.00 , a Termignoni Sticker/ Decal is a lot cheaper with probably similar results but some people like shopping and of course that is their business.. Trials riding is more about Techniques used than the actual bikes as can be seen by watching the video 'Taming the Beast by Toni Bou' where he rides a Africa Twin over some trials stuff , to be fair the bike is fitted with a Termignoni exhaust.

www.termignoni.it

The mudguards frames are not exactly the same so it may fit with a bit of modifying but I personally doubt it would be a direct fit www.dherbeymoto.com a Trials motorcycle specialist shop in France has one for sale at 92.30 Euros to directly fit your 04 French Scorpa TYS F 4 stroke Yamaha motor 125/175 . it is 92.30 Euros. and is called a Selle Randonnee longue . You could also try www.birkettmotosport.com based in Broughton in Furness in the UK . Nigel Birkett is the sole UK importer of Scorpa trials bikes.

When the motor is hot and it will not start try using choke with NO throttle , if it does not start within 3 kicks then abandon that as it will just wet the plug and render it impossible to start . It is worth a try It used to work on my GasGas PRO of around that era when it would not start when hot. Good Luck.

@PatMc Take the plug out and check its condition then clean it with a fine wire brush like you would use for cleaning suede shoes and blow it clean , make sure you get in the gap between the insulator and the part that is threaded on the outer surface. make sure the gap is 0.6 and the plug is a BPR5ES or Champion etc equivalent or a NGK Iridium BPR5 EIX. If the bike starts after you clean it and it was black in colour dry or wetish then you are probably running too rich a mix as in more fuel to air than the usual 14.7 ish air to 1 part fuel ratio This causes the plug to foul and your spark will be poor. If you have a Dellorto PHBL 26 BS carburettor then the fuel screw should be approximately 3 turns out from lightly closed by turning clockwise., turning anti clockwise adds fuel. check your pilot/slow jet and your main jet size are the recommended ones for your local weather conditions and elevation relative to sea level . Also make sure your filter is clean and not over oiled. Clean all electrical connectors and tighten bolts that have earth connectors. check wiring where it has crimped connectors etc. Take off the rubber plug cap by screwing it anti clockwise and check the condition of the coarse screw thread in the rubber plug cap and the core wire in the thick black HT cable that comes from the coil is able to make good contact with the plug cap core.

@cloo00 As you thought the spring is not spare it has fallen off in storage .there should be a spring on both sides. be very careful not to damage it when you put it back on use an improvised tool something conical to help expand the spring evenly then offer it up the seal hole and roll it up into position over the seal lip. This is what you need https://youtu.be/2MX-PBZkVR0?feature=shared

Adam Raga has made his feelings clear about losing his TRS seat to a cheaper Pilot for the coming 2024 season of the WTC with his new single Lost on you. The message seems to be loud and clear to former mentor and friend Jordi Tarres that he is not very impressed with his former employers choices. https://youtu.be/wDjeBNv6ip0?feature=shared

Not so sure about poor implementation more like savages with no mechanical sympathy trashing great ideas. Light weight brings with it fragility , the gearbox is designed for the max 300cc , you have a 125cc that is also the base for the 200 = 172cc and the 225cc conversion which uses the TXT PRO 250cc barrel/jugg with 5mm machined off the top and utilizing the edition earlier model TX motor 250 cc piston with the 16mm wrist/gudgeon pin in place of the pro 250cc piston with a 18mm wrist pin hole to go with the 16 mm 125cc connecting rod small end also Standard compression 250 cc TXT PRO head and 1mm aluminium head spacer with HYLOMAR blue sealant on a do it yourself job . As regards bad engineering search for Xiu R&D , he is a innovator with great ideas , unfortunately he failed to take into consideration your average beast and their ability to destroy things. Pro F1 driver 78 laps and some scuffing to the tyres and floor plank . The BEAST no laps did not even set off , burnt the clutch out at the start line because of poor engineering design.

Silencer rubbing the tire fix is add spacer or washers at the rear shock mount bracket to push the silencer away from the tyre and then file the spire U nuts clip down a bit for clearance to the silencer and also dent the silencer in the area near the clip to help clearance and cut off 3mm or so off the set screw so that it does not dig into the silencer V MAR adaptor is the perfect fix to the bad OEM choice of fix for VHST dellorto designed airbox rubber fitment AS IN THE SHORT ILL FITTING DONUT RUBBER ? to PHBL 26BS , you can get a more secure set up with this by fitting an orange silicone front pipe exhaust gasket between the V MAR adaptor and the dellorto PHBL 26 BS also if you heat the airbox rubber with a heat gun and push it toward the right front side of the airbox and place a standard wine bottle cork in the gap between them then leave it positioned in there it will hold the rubber in a good position to enable easy location between airbox and carb adaptor when fitting the airbox to the frame mounts. In the UK heat up the airbox rubber with a heat gun and force a LYNX deodorant tin into the airbox rubber outlet to get the correct diameter to fit the rear of the carb , leave it in there until the airbox rubber is cold and then remove it , The plastic it is made of shrinks with age but you can fix it with the heat gun and improvised tools like the lynx aerosol tin. Note do not leave the foam air filter in the airbox if using a heat gun on the airbox rubber or you may lose £15 or so in the ensuing melt down.

This may help https://youtu.be/tB_bFTSqaBk?feature=shared Jim Snell Trials parts USA MKII.

Just an add on , if you use DOT4 in a clutch or brake M/C the seals and any feed tubing will normally be made of EPDM , if you want to use mineral oil the seals will normally be FKM more commonly known as Viton.

@iank The use of mineral oil is to stop the contamination by Dot4 of the gearbox oil and the possibility of any nitrile seals/ clutch parts being damaged in there if the O rings in the slave fail , the clutch slave cylinder sits in the clutch casing and its a wet clutch so it is best to use mineral oil, I just converted an old DOT4 setup to mineral oil on a Gas Gas pro for that very reason.

@DavidSwedenIts a very quick job , it should only take you a minute or two. https://youtu.be/BqccnNejZbY?feature=shared

It is more than likely carb related if it was running OK at some point and has since started running badly then it must have a blockage somewhere in a passageway that can be rectified by cleaning everything in a ultrasonic bath or hopefully fitting a new jet block gasket will cure it. Best of luck.

@scotta If you decide to change the part that lineaway is referring to it is called a jet block gasket. It sounds like it is a likely cause of your problems E10, E5 fuel is not helping gaskets I would think , Its best to use fuel with only 5% ethanol at most , even Shell v power 99 ron has about 5% so thats no help

@scottatake off fuel tap and take it apart and clean it, then flush out fuel tank , take off supply fuel pipe/tubing from tank to carb and blow it through if it has a in line filter make sure it flows well or fit a new one. make sure breather tubing on top body of carb is clear into upper chamber of float bowl. check float height is 19mm if your carb is Keihin PWK28 and make sure your float arms are not fouling on your brass in overflow pipe in the float bowl stopping it from moving downwards fully also make sure the needle valve that lets fuel into the float bowl is not sticking in its bore also make sure there is nothing in the inlet rubber that leads to the cage that holds the reed valve petals , best to take it off and make sure the petals are secure and closing properly and they are complete. Sounds to me like you have a slow / restricted supply of fuel to the float bowl causing a change in air/fuel ratio but it could be something other of course.

Yes but what i was referring to is that things can go wrong and they do. but as you say. It is up to you to reduce the risks and levels of hassle that may come your way. Current situation with BVM now is excellent as it was before I never had a problem there ever.