Tr1AL

On early models they used to put them under the seat/airbox on the left hand side /gear change side but later models it went where yours is now as its better placed. the tube is the thing that will melt between the reservoir and the rear master cylinder and needs a long spring over it for heat /crush protection. if you need a new piece of tubing it is made of EPDM plastic to survive DOT4 brake fluid 6mm/8mm internal diameter. Regards Alan.

Hello cut a bit off the allen key to get in there better and work it slowly then swap it for a normal bolt with two or three washers when you put it back on ...... or use a flexi extension to get on the allen bolt.

Your picture shows that the reservoir is fitted where it should be fitted.

@Seabag Yep that is as far as it will go on .

@Seabag The kick pedal slides on the splines and then a allen bolt goes through a tophat washer and is screwed into the hole in the center of the shaft thus holding the pedal on the shaft , its best to use medium thread lock on the bolt or it can sometimes loosen off if it has been overtightened in the past. Check the parts book exploded view drawings to see how things are put together. Best wishes Alan.

@ Seabag https://blog.splatshop.co.uk/tech-suspension-fork-oil-levels/ IPONE oil 3WT for = to FORMULA recommended OJ01 FORK OIL . as stated in the blog.

@Seabag this matches the service manual you have so looks like you have the answer. https://vertigomotors.co.uk/technical/

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/3242619/Vertigo-Camo-Works.html

I think you have only one choice nowadays that is the set made by SURFLEX approx £130.00 from a Trials specialist.

Something is wrong with your clutch mastercylinder or the slave or the hose has a hole in it. If your standard clutch isn't working then putting a new clutch in it is very unlikely to rectify that. https://youtu.be/hdHmiNNgL2I?si=SQVmrH_Ud1a_

@Millwoodva https://youtu.be/SKPCCsKOgr4?si=MFiAoau5hUNS https://youtu.be/PuUGLuUMmOs?si=bKYHSY2iGFcl

https://youtu.be/S1LR_uMHB0M?si=sovw_drjH_rsV

Make sure your clutch lever is as far away from your fingers when you are holding the bar grip as it can be by turning the perch adjuster anti clockwise then adjust the small allen head adjuster screw that has a 10mm lock nut on the clutch lever so that there is approx 1mm of free play before it makes contact with the mastercylinder piston. this will seperate the clutch plates as much as possible when you pull the clutch lever in to give the least amount of drag at the clutch plates which will help to engage neutral. NB If when you make that adjustment your clutch lever does not touch against the bar grip then adjust the lever until it just touches the grip or when you crash the piston in the clutch master cylinder may become damaged. With this adjustment the clutch will be at its hardest pressure to pull with one finger.

Even new bikes have problems sometimes , its all good because as you work through it you learn a load of things that will help you in many future problems. Have a good evening . Best wishes Alan.

You could try removing what gas you can from the tank then elevate the rear of the bike so any remaining fuel moves away from the tap outlet. Did you try to drain fuel with the tank cap removed?

@Noel09 https://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/80228-fuel-tap-solenoide https://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/64519-beta-4t-fuel-tap-solenoid/

@Noel09 www.betausa.com -support - trials - owners manuals = MIKUNI SE BSR 33-79 The information is all there. Regards Alan

For any person who has an interest . This gives some insight and interestingly from three riding levels which gives balance that is normally absent. https://youtu.be/3w_WxS411wY?si=ukWNMnZagaC 51:25 is the part of the video that specifically talks about marking regs. Regards Alan.

If you can actually find a seal and piston kit they are quite expensive usually , it may be better to pay the extra and buy a rear master made by AJP/BRAKTEC . Trials people refer to this as braketech for some reason but if you go to www.braketech.com you are not going to find what you want www.braktek.com is the real name of this company. Best wishes Alan.

@excess You probably saw that your shock is not a OLLE but the SACHS ZF that is a standard on a TXT pro looks like they saved money with a cheaper finish on the body.

Formula brakes /clutch master cylinders & slaves are no longer available mass production and parts are hard to find although there are some bits still around if you search hard enough I recently found a front calliper seal rebuild kit while searching for something else. Brake pads are easy to find GALFER or GOLDFREN make them to fit. Go to www.rideformula.com . Best wishes Alan. PS Formula make the TECH branded trials forks that are now used by a lot of Trials moto manufacturers.

Google BETA REV images then Google BETA EVO images and you will see the difference between the two types of frames the 4T has used. A 4RT is a HONDA montesa.

These boots are known to have a problem with the rubber inner top toe protector coming away from the boot when in use as it is not stitched just bonded , do not waste your time taking them back to the dealer if this happens just stick it back on with flexi type superglue gel.

It is the same as a 2010 model . It was fitted with cheapo tyres Pirelli MT43 that are not proper competition tyres, I think the rear shock was a OLLE the forks should be Marzocchi steel stanchioned forks as most 125cc pros had until the TECH forks appeared when Marzocchi went bust. go to www.thehellteam.com and search under Tech support GasGas info.

@DanRev4t The 2007/2008 Rev 4t uses the same water pump components as the 2009 on BETA EVO 4T , as far as I know the APICO BETA aluminium upgrade parts are listed as a fit on a 4T BETA motor water pump ? Check with BETA in ITALY to see if the parts are the same. If you don't want to chance it.