Tr1AL

https://youtu.be/9TH3osNOdBY?si=QsjThBvRpJ9lP

Yes faussy I agree .He could also try the MITAS PRO and the PIRELLI MT43 , I have not tried them but they look like Trials tyres. At club level I do not think tyres make much difference. That is also true of the bikes that people use , regular competitors know that a old Fantic 125 twinshock will beat a 300 Vertigo with the right rider on board. It makes one wonder why people bother at club level with all the expense. There is a review on instagram by an competent Australian rider and the Kenda IBEX gets a good review all round , the only exception being that the tyre folds when pushed hard.

Michelin , Dunlop D803 GP , IRC Rear . Anything else is not a serious tire/tyre for the sport at this present time

I have not seen any specs for that bike.

www.tricksinthesticks.co.uk or www.inchperfecttrials.co.uk These have bikes to hire or take your own and pay less. It is harder than it looks but don't be put off . if you stick at it and put some time in it is a good cheap sunday out (Entries cost around £20 )and there are plenty of trials events around where you are. Find events @ www.tmxnews.co.uk/ whats on this week-end. Southend & District MCC has a trial on 30th NOV @ Poles wood (NEAR THE SECRET BUNKER), Ongar Rd ,Kelvedon Hatch . CM15 0LA Starts 10.30am finish around 15.30pm Riders will be there around 9.00am if you want to ask people questions about bikes and how to get started in the sport . Too find the venue look for a day-glo orange triangle at the side of the road that points to the entrance. Its free to watch and go in for spectators. There is usually a burger van at most trials events if you want to eat/drink there. Most important thing in Trials is a well prepared bike ( Handle bar and bar lever position makes a lot of difference plus I found that oddly footrest type and position made a big difference also) . Tyre pressures are very important in the newest tyres you can afford the best being Michelin X11 . Pressures for mud 5 psi Front 3/3.5 psi Rear and for riding on stone and Rock or dry conditions 6psi Front 4 psi Rear those being the usual starting points . Others will no doubt chime in with their recommendations.

The 4RT 301RR makes a pathetic 16.3 HP , 1 HP more than a VERTIGO 125 but the 301RR puts out 15.1 ft/lbs torque , where as the VERTIGO 125 makes 8.8 ft/lbs . With that much torque output of the 301 it may be better leaving it with the stock clutch spring set up. 4RT 260 makes 15.6 HP and 13.4 ft/lbs torque

Yes I am sure it is , use whatever works to stop the loss of air.

It is a lost in translation thing . https://www.trialsuk.co.uk/puncture-repair/Apico-puncture-Repair-Strips---Tubeless-Tyres---Pack-30

Yes and a packet of dog turds.

For puncture resistance on rocks yes of course , as far as I am aware X light is for indoor trials. It would be odd if a major tyre manufacturer would spend an astronomical amount of money on tooling and R&D to produce a tyre that a few trials clubmen had suggested as a desired option while chatting in a bar. I am going to guess that its development was requested by the elite riders specifically for indoor events in the same way that Adam Raga requested that the older GASGAS would benefit from losing a lot of weight to help with hopping and skipping around which resulted in the pro version.

Go to trialworld.es or todotrial if you want to find out what is happening. This is a how to fix things site in my experience.

I dont know why so many people dislike X-lights I have used most brands and versions and the X -light seems good to me. The top riders use them and they do not seem to complain.

If its of any use to you ... in the UK for competition the Michelin X11 is considered to be the best tyre for grip in all conditions and lasts the longest , quite a lot of riders in the south of the UK where Trials are run in woodland with little rock/stone but plenty of mud swear that the IRC WINNER TR is the best rear tire to use , they usually use a Michelin on the front wheel.

AIROH TRR/TRRS , it is the original most vented trials specific helmet that is available to buy at the present time .

Use silicone grease on O rings to make them stick in the grooves of casings during assembly. whining noise may be the primary gear with the clutch meshing , Check the nut that holds the clutch basket/bell on is tight.

As konrad said they are like that .This is for when the carb is used OEM on a bike that will have the adjusters on the left hand side e.g early GasGas pro 280 There is no need to plug it it is already blank , it does not matter if dirt gets in the hole , it will not get inside the carburettor.

Go to www.todotrial.com and change the language at the top right of the page all the info there.

A completley new motor with induction through the barrel and a carb in a BETA EVO like chassis redesigned to look like a BETA EVO. I thought someone should do this as it is Trials Central.

@Charliedimmock46 DT50/DT80MX 1982 looks almost identical but has lighting coil included. take that off if you do not want it . Go to ebay to find one second hand , not cheap though. Regards Alan..

That should fit without problems the part number is correct to fit your bike. Regards Alan PS Using a vacuum kit to pull the fluid through the system helps as it can be a problem bleeding the fluid sometimes with these rear brakes. Vacuum kit to do the job is available on ebay for approx £10 delivered.

There is a spacer on ebay.co.uk now with a flywheel and weight £52.49. Did you try the importers they list as around $12.

Colomer. Pronounced Colom air. I seem to remember Woody Hole starting this Colome rename for some reason known only to himself while doing the commentary for Bennett Trials Videos in the 1990s.

The Gearbox needs to be in neutral or have the clutch lever pulled in to start the bike , have you assembled the kick start shaft/gear and the parts correctly is it inserted fully into the engine casing before replacing the clutch casing .Check your work again following the service manual. Regards Alan.

As I cannot see what you are doing I may be wrong but as you describe the problem being that fluid will not push or pull through the system it would seem that the piston in the master cylinder is not against the clip that retains it in the bore and as such is blocking the fluids return to the reservoir. Regards Alan.

Hello you can test the thermo sensor in a pan of boiled water and use a multimeter set to continuity on the terminals. As regards the clutch if you are on a budget you could just use the bike and see how it goes, and slip the clutch a lot to encourage them to comply but personally I would bin them and fit new plates. Regards Alan.