peterb

Hi Mike, I thought it was all ok at Tauranga! Just needed an adjustment for the clutch lever actuation screw, perhaps not then. From memory you had the right oil, 500ml ATF or 10 weight so that should be ok. Just the bleeding may be a problem - or may be a seal passing in the slave or master - not usually a problem. I copied this off from another reponse which may help: Bleed the clutch from the slave upwards, I usually lay the bike over to the left side, then remove the master and fix it to a handy chair so it is higher than the slave. Use a syringe. Bye, PeterB.

Hi Jaycare, Do you mean the clutch is dragging? On the 02 PRO there can be a problem with air getting into the clutch slave due to the 02 design and machining of this particular area. I attempted many fixes for one 2002 clutch but resolved it by fitting a new 2003 onwards PRO clutch cover which has a different diameter slave piston and extra webbing in the clutch cover, you may have to do this to solve your problem. Bleed the clutch from the slave upwards, I usually lay the bike over to the left side, then remove the master and fix it to a handy chair so it is higher than the slave. Use a hydraulic oil for the hydraulics (2005 onwards use mineral oil for the clutch actuation) On this year model, use a mineral 10 weight oil, 450ml from absolute empty or an ATF rated to Dexron III in the gearbox. No synthetics. Bye, PeterB.

Hallo Lee, Ich wundermich warum Du dass in Deutsch geschrieben hasst! I would say the 340mm length would be the best option, 5mm less than the Betors would not make a huge difference to the handling. The 360mm shocks would tend to tuck the steering in too much. Viele grusse, PeterB.

Hi Jesse, I agree with pandleboy, almost, the 2 other shims/washers go on the outside of the two top hat shaped bushes, between the gold rocker link arm and the bushes - just had a look on my 06 300. Remember to grease the shperical rod end bearing in the shock too. There seems to be a little play from new in the linkages. As little up and down movement as possible is best. I use Mobil HP waterproof grease which seems to work well in our wet conditions. If you are riding lots of creek/river type sections and are not a modern splat attack up massive, dry rock steps, I'd recommend fitting a flywheel weight - great improvement on low end power delivery. Bye, PeterB.

Hi there, I don't know if I am much of a help here, but from what you say about the step, it shouldn't have caused any damage to the rim. Maybe you are not pre-loading the suspension just prior to going into the step, hard to explain unless you are already doing this - sort of pushing down onto the footrests to load up the shock then dipping the clutch instantaneously and grabbing a handful of throttle at the clutch release point to fire the back wheel half way or more up the step. Air pressure is ok. Bye, PeterB.

Hi jcg, I don't have the torque figures you asked for, just need to do up the dogbones and link bolt tight. If you need a figure then use 10 to 15 Nm. Bye, PeterB.

Hi there, I've replaced many main bearings and seals over the years, but never worked on a Sherco. In all cases, except for the PRO motors which have the crank seals inward of the main bearings, the seals go on after the crankcases have gone together, never before as they are then subject to damage. You might find that on the primary gear side, there is a sleeve perhaps of some description that acts on the seal or maybe the seal acts directly on the crankshaft. Make sure the spring on the seal faces inwards to the crankcase, fit the seal after the cases are put together. Bye, PeterB.

Hi Subira, All confirmed, I had a look at my 06 Raga. Looking from above, the hose exits the master cylinder at right angles, in towards the shock. Yes, the hose will foul the shock spring (All do from new), tie the hose out of the way with a cable tie around the rear engine casing so that the spring will not rub the hose. Bye, PeterB.

Hi there, The rear rims are pretty tough on these bikes, fronts usually bend first. Must have been a massive step! I have straightened out a few dings in the past on various rims though it takes more clout than a rubber mallet. Best to remove the tyre, get a kettle out close to the bike, boil stacks of water and pour over the dinged area for as long as you have. Use a heavy hammer very carefully - best is a real heavy hide hammer and try to remove the ding resting the rim over a good sized tree stump or solid piece of wood, takes a fair whack to put back into shape. Keep the water boiling and pour more on in between hammering as the aluminium work hardens. Be careful if you end up using a sledge hammer. Bye, PeterB.

Hi Scott, Noticed you weren't getting too many responses. I had a look inside an older GG middle box, it looked like it had fibreglass packing around the perforated tube. I would say the packing in the mid box should be packed similar to the silencer. I remember some years back, Codina saying that the mid box should be re-packed frequently to give optimium performance (not exactly in those words) - so kind of confirms that the mid box should be packed. Usually, the end silencer on the GG blows away the packing on the curved section of the inner perforated tube, approx 70mm from the start/entry part of the silencer. You can easily turn the packing around at this point to fix the problem - best to wear gloves as the packing can become real itchy. The packing is usually reasonably tight. Bye, PeterB.

Hi Jay, I should add that my Sherpa is based on a 1976 model Alpina on second oversize and running a 64mm stroke for an approx capacity of 352cc, I have made a PRO reed valve block fit in and this works fine with the Keihin flat slide. I have not tried the flat slide without the reed block. Have done some minor porting work to increase the transfer port area by almost 50% in the crankcase mouth and matching cylinder transfer inlet, have not adjusted the cylinder port timing - the 325 Bultaco port timing is quite close to a Gas Gas 330/321 save for the transfer swept area being about 50% greater on the GG. Also working on a mod to fit a Kokusan digital ignition system to the Bultaco, not so straight forward! I guess that I should try the flat slide with the reed block removed, when I get time. Bye, PeterB.

Hi Ian, I usually ride Gasser's. I rode a Sherco at a UK National a few years back (The White Rose I think - somewhere oop north) and had the same problem, it really hurt my wrists. A year or so ago, I had another spin on a Sherco and encountered the same problem. Only thing I could put it down to was the h/bar shape, I think the Sherco uses a Tomaselli bar which has a different bend to Renthal's or Hebo bars. If you are already using Renthal's then this isn't going to be it! If not, try another set of bars. Bye, PeterB.

Hi there, I have a 325 based Sherpa, I tried a few different carbs and find that the best performance is with a Keihin 28mm flat slide as fitted to a Raga 300, uses the standard needle (well, ok then, a GJH - slightly different), jets and slide except I made up a 1.0mm bore main jet - must use an inline filter as this carb has no internal filtering. This carb provides great response and improved top end revs. Next best was a 26mm DellOrto straight from a Gas Gas 250/280/300 except for a change to a 95 main jet - have set up quite a few Bultacos here with this carb, 250s and 325's - great performance but not quite as bril as the Keihin. I also repacked the middle silencer on a 77 325 which was a bit of a job but improved response, never wanted to do it again though! Bye, PeterB.

Hello James, You will need the specific flywheel extractor for this bike. I have not worked on a TYZ so can not comment on the exact nature. The flywheel (magneto) is located on a tapered shaft with a woodruff key, an extractor is needed to break the taper. As for the oiling up - this would usually occur if the fuel/oil ratio was too oil rich, or the carb was letting in too much fuel, or the exhaust/silencer system was choked or the bore was really worn out or the clutch side crankshaft oil seal was passing - in which case you would not need to remove the flywheel. Bit hard to sort out without seeing the bike. Bye, PeterB.

Hi Vaughan, If all of these mods fail with the Bing, I recommend a 26mm DellOrto as fitted to a new Gas Gas 250/280/300, uses all the correct size jets and needle except for needing a change to a 95 or 100 main jet - easy to get hold of, or just solder up the original main jet and drill with a 1.0mm diameter drill bit. This carb needs no further mods. I have fitted many of these carbs to the older 250 and 325 Bultaco's with good results. Have also used a 26mm Mikuni from a Kawasaki KT 250 which was ok, but not as good as the DellOrto, best carb on my 325 Bult is a 28mm Keihin set up for a 300 GG but with 1.0mm dia main jet and GJH needle. Bye, PeterB.

Hi there, Do you really mean a 1990 rear wheel? I would say no. Usually the rear wheel from the same year model from either bike would most likely fit. While the distance between centres is the same, the rear brake caliper mount and disc diameter dictates if the wheel would fit or not. I have a 1989 Gas Gas, the rear wheel from this bike will definately not match up with any PRO model or even a 1997 onward bike. Bye, Peter.

Isn't that Slapewath, at the Charltons? Have always used a 50:1 ratio, mineral oil (Pennzoil) - never had a problem, I wouldn't like to mix any leaner. Synthetic works very well on motocross/racing motors where the motors are at high RPM, trials motors don't usually run up to ultra high revs for long periods of time. Bye, PeterB.

Hi exiled Yorky, Also in exile from North Yorks but happily so in NZ! I have ridden the 07 Sherco 250 and was not too impressed power wise, very soft power delivery off the bottom end and I never could get on well with the steering, but then I ride a 300 Raga and like a bit of torque. The 250 Gasser would not dissapoint, great motor, easy to ride for all levels of rider. For me, I'd pick the GG. Again it boils down to your preference and riding style. Bye, PeterB.

Hi there, It sounds like you are stressing the master cylinder and maybe warping the unit after fitting the guards and this is causing the piston to stick. Have another look to see if you can mount the cylinder in an unstressed situation with the guards in place, if not then you will have to remove the guard. I have used 50mm wide thick black electrical insulation tape for many years on my PRO frame tubes which looks good for a long time and prevents any scratching to the frame. Easy to replace too! If you take your time, you can easily follow the frame tube contours when fitting the tape so that there are no creases. Bye, PeterB.

Hi there, Guisborough, my old trials club! Does Fothers (Allan) still come out for a pint? Kits are no longer sold for the rear master cylinders, no problem to fit one for a PRO, works fine. Bleed the hydraulics from the caliper end using a syringe. Bye, PeterB.

Hi there, This is not so easy to solve without looking at the bike, but here goes. May be the carb is set too rich, choke on all the time, float height too high, bowl constantly flooding due to dirt lodged in the petrol needle valve. Other less likely scenario's, oil seal passing on the clutch side letting in gearbox oil to the crankcase. Cylinder bore badly worn - quite unlikely in the view of the age of the bike. BP5RS plug is fine. Might be a knocking sound.... is there one or not? If knocking under load then most likely a little lean, air leaking via crank seal on magneto side or ign set a bit advanced. Sounding haggard - do you mean the motor is bogging down as if too rich? Hmmm, so many problems. Good luck. Bye, PeterB.

Hi crossman, I'm not sure if I can help. I thought the TLR200 had ign points? Does your model have electronic ign? If so, and your electronic advance/mapping "box" has failed, then I would imagine a similar unit could be found from a Honda road model, GL125/145 or similar or one of the many trail bike versions, XR200. Thought these would have been more popular than the TLR. The actual mapping may be slightly different but you could counter that a little by adjusting the static timing - by adjusting the ignition sensor pick up coil position. Bye, PeterB.

Hi Coxy, Sounds like an oil leak from the clutch cover. If tightening the screws does not help, then a new clutch case gasket is needed - easy job. Do not drain the cooling system. Lay the bike over to the left so the gearbox oil stays in, remove all screws and place out in an order so they go back to the same position. Remove clutch cover, careful not to lose the clutch slave needle roller thrust bearing, remove old gasket, clean all mating surfaces and fit new gasket with a little sealant on one side and grease on the other. If you left the water pump housing in place on the clutch cover and did not move the crankshaft at all, then the water pump drive slot will locate without problem. If you do remove the water pump, then you need to ensure that the pump locates correctly with the crankshaft end when fitting up. Bye, PeterB.

Hi Sean, Just a small point, when you are cleaning out the carb, have you been removing the needle jet? It is sometimes referred to as the emulsion tube - it is accessible after removing the main jet, and I know that some lads in my area do miss this one out when they also say that they have completely stripped the carb and cleaned out. With the needle jet out, pilot screw out, pilot jet out - best to give all the passages (in the carb) a blast with an air line then set back to standard. D36 needle with clip in second off bottom, pilot screw 3 and a half turns out - I guess you know that this turns out to richen the mixture. If you have any drain hoses on the side overflow vents on the carb, ensure they are free to drain downwards, I have seen some fitted in a loop up over the carb which simply does not allow the carb to work. The 125 and 200 model tend to work best with the standard jetting as supplied, I experimented with a 200 for some time before reverting back to std which worked best. Bye, PeterB.

Hi ecd, You would be fine with 650 to 700ml of Dexron III rated ATF after draining the old oil. Remember to drain the oil when warm as any metallic particles remain in suspension and will therefore drain away. From new, the older GG motors had a spec for 750ml, some of the oil remains after draining. Bye, PeterB.