kevhenson

thanks both

Started Changing the seals on this at the weekend but id been sent the wrong size.. I am certain. . Reasonably so anyway that the seals were in spring up. Only video I can find is for the older legs and it says spring down.. so doubting myself now.. can someone put me right?

do you have the email address for them... i could do with a pair of these Thanks

Thanks canada.. much appreciated. . Will have another go at it tomorrow. . For what they cost I'll change the o rings and seals nothing left then :-)

Its hard to see.. tried running it with the front sprocket off in gear to see if I could replicate it.. but couldnt tell.. the o rings are behind the collar arent they? I can see it weeping but its coming between where collar meets seal if that make sense.. had to lean the bike over To the left to get it to leak.. couldnt feel any play in output shaft so good news.. heow does that collar come off as seems fairly attached to where it is.. mole grips couldnt pull it out

Thanks all.. yes it does have 2 year warranty. . But nearest dealer is 80 plus miles away.. hardly worth the fuel for the price of the seal.. Canada. . Do you mean the elbow that comes from the casing in front of the sprocket? If so its def not.. its wet and running from output shaft down on bash plate.. it can tick over or rev not moving and no sign of oil... after half hour riding its wet through.. drained oil off and measured to make sure I hadnt over filled but only 275ml came out with clutch case backed off.. rest of 350ml is im guessing lost.. on a plus side my chain is nicely oiled up now :-)

my 2013 has started to leak oil from the output shaft... i see on the parts list there is a bush with 2 o rings behind it... im guessing if i remove the front sprocket i can then remove the bush and o rings.... but can the actual seal be removed without pulling the gearbox out? thanks

i have just brought a 2013 Tr280i and amg oing to give the gear oil a cheange... does everyone use the putoline Nano Trans (liquid Gold!!) or is there a cheaper alternative.. was looking at putoline GP10 75w has anyone tried this or any other alternatives that can be changed frequently and cost effectively... Thanks

that was my point... the fact it was way out of line... its the way it left the factory and i didnt notice or look for it.. obviously as airbox etc is off to remove the old boot i'll realign it when i fit a new one, looks like you gain alignment from the connector pipe from the airbox to carb? cant see another way of getting it at a different angle.

i have a 2010 300 4t... its 4 months old and the inlet rubber has split open... not really a material defect just whoever put the carb on in the factory didnt align it to the inlet manifold and its been straining the rubber until it let go you can see on the next image how the rubber isnt on straight anyway so if you own one it might be worth checking your not in the same situation or i might just have the friday afternoon bike just hope lampkins have one now

ive got a 2010 300 and love it... did have hot starting issues with it but swapped the plug for a irridium one and boots forst time all the time... unlees its been on its side.. nice power delivery... very soft off the bottom.. only critcisms of it is where they put the cdi... ive snapped my bracket already and there isnt any spares in the uk... its on order with lampkins, but think im going to extend the wires and mount it behind the number board, other thing is the back end is a bit soft... im just under 13 stone and would prefer it stiffer, steve saunders does a spring to cure this... other than that id buy another!

looks like you found a lot of them lol... check linkage bearings for play, along with wheel bearings, unusual rattles, a lot of gassers rattle but pull the clutch in and it should disappear, check the colour of oil as if its running on atf it should be bright red, if it looks a milky pink colour it will be the waterpump seal gone... all little things but they add up! also check the clutch feels light on the pull the plates can swell making it feel heavy, will require a new clutch pack or metal plates to get it back in spec.. should give you a start and im sure someone will add to it :-)

this might be of use to you? Batch pic resizer

i would try disconnecting the kill switch and then check for a spark if that doesnt produce one then check for power going into the coil.. if there is power then its the coil.. if there isnt it gets more expensive!

not to mention mike is a great bloke to deal with

pick my new 300 up next weekend does anyone know if the back spring is still quite soft for the heavier rider and is it worth swapping it out for one of steve saunders springs? im 13 stone cheers

do they need to be road registered to insure with mce?

cheers nigel... but arent all the hebo ones tight fitting?

im after some trousers that arent tight fitting / lycra based... far to old and to many bumps lol,,, are these loose / ish fitting? cheers kev

i run a expert 2 litre hdi for my daily run around and find it no dearer to run than a family size saloon... on mostly town work it does around 350 miles on

the 06 has the 2 o rings as well so will skip the bearing freezing.. i was more concerned about the heat damaging the seals.... did you heat the case for long and did you apply the heat from the crank side or flywheel... cheers for the reply

my son had some ecos at xmas... lasted less than 4 outings..complained to Hebo via trials uk and they just completly washed there hands of them blaming it on the chain even tho both boots are worn!! would never buy again... both boots have worn through where they rub on the frame... absolute rubbish and there are far better boots for similar money if you dont want to spend more... ive got stone 3's and love them... never had a boot thats so comfortable

im hoping there are a few people on here that have done this and can point me in the right direction... i heve the casings split and new main bearing and seals on there way... but whats the options for removing the bearings and seals from the casings and putting the new ones in.. i dont have a press so hoping for some other ideas? on other road 2 strokes ive used a heat gun to warm the cases and froze the bearing so they just drop in but on the pro it looks like the seals go in first? cheers in advance

yes its possible to get one in... just takes a bit of wriggling... chap at our club used to do it