anotherfive

Mine overheated even when fan working. I was laid in bed with the wife and suddenly thought its the pump thats packed up!!!!! It's a little plastic impellar held on by a circlip.The drive part had worn circular so wasn't going round. Quite a cheap and easy fix if thats the problem.

Cheap things first. Remove pads and enlarge the holes with a round file. Also clean the bolt shaft that goes through. Copper grease and test again. This has always been the problem for me nothing more serious.

I thought he was the pit bull!!!! Anyway get it out of the shop and do nowt until after your first ride(ass kicking)

I dont think theres room to remove the slide without the carb off. Just do it and clean at the same time.Undo the cable at the bars and either tie string to the nipple or fix new cable to the old and pull through. You could do this from the carb end as well not sure which is best. Either way its not difficult

Screw it in to stop then back it out one whole turn, if nothing else has been altered ie jets and needle and reeds it should be a good starting point. I think there is more info on beta uk site.

The knurled screw is a mixture screw, leave that alone. The choke is a black lift up piston on the wrong side of the carb hidden by the exhaust

Does anyone know of a good plastic welder as two of us need mudgaurds sorting and my other mate needs a new face!!!!

Can you use the horn switch as a kill switch or is that rubbish as well?

Hi Does anyone have the dates and the televised times for the indoor world events. I've searched but can't find. thanks

Just to make it different if your using 50:1 then divide a litre (1000ml) by 50+1 parts ie 51 so the amount of oil is 1/51th of a litre so 1000/51 = 19.6ml of oil. Easy to work out on a non drinking night!!!

How do you find out when and where next British round is as I can find loads of info on club trials but not these?????

I have had betas for 8 years now. Tackled various overheating probs but had a new one last night. Fan on, engine running hot, radiator full, mixture and supply fine. After a lot of thinking I took the water pump cover off to find the plastic impeller had lost its grip on the drive shaft so was not turning and pumping coolant around. Have one on order now and hope that will fix it.

Before stripping completely try this. Remove cylinder from frame. With a flat blade screwdriver press on piston and at same time try to rotate the piston say 1/4 turn. Nowsee if it will push to brake and return back to circlip stop. This has worked for me in the past.Remove all muck and clean at the same time. New seal kits are cheap but a bit fiddly to get on.I use the pointy end of a pencil to get the seal stretched a bit. Then slide directly onto the piston from the pencil." just a tenner for that thanks!!!"

Thanks to all but especially Dan who mentioned the reeds. Pulled them out today and one set were not seating correctly and were leaving a visible gap.Stripped them and refitted and bike is now running spot on.Yipee roll on playtime.

Today for some reason my beta was playing up.Before riding carb and filter were cleaned but whenever I opened throttle from tickover to wide the engine dies for about half a second then picks up.this sounds a very short lag but it makes a hell of a difference in the sections. Checked plug and mixture appears spot on. Wondered if it was some electricl problem when on heavy load. On higher revs bike runs fine. Any ideas greatfully accepted

Power wash them dry slowly then spray with wd40, one oil fits all

There's a guy on ebay sells em, they're a bargain

I've heard there are currenty two montesa four strokes doing the breast stroke across the atlantic as wee speak!!!

Not sure how that cup works because mine has little holes drilled in it so it would not work like an upturned glass would it?

Before having them replaced do the following. Remove forks from bike Remove dust seals by working a screwdriver between seal and lower fork gently all around. Hold fork upside down and using feeler gauge or "seal mate" slide between seal and slider.Work right around fork leg at an angle as if trying to remove any debris.You should get mucky oil dribbling down. Do it gently so you don't damage the seal. Pump and wipe the forks repeatedly and see if leakeage stops In my experience this works 9 times out of 10 with fork problems. Wear on the coating should not cause leakage. Seals are pretty easy to do but not too expensive at dealers if all else fails Good Luck

Have you tried the following Fuel at 70:1 (65ml in 5 litres) Air screw 1.5 turns out Needle set low in carb ie; clip in top notch The correct plug ngk BP5ES (as rec'd by Lampkins) A clean air filter A clean carb A plug chop after a ride across the moors under load in 4th/5th

The red bit comes off when you lick em , a bit like scarborough rock

They're upside down I bet.This may be useful for club riders like me!!!

Hi Does anyone have any tips for removing the following types of bearings 1. Wheelbearings On my beta there is a sleeve between the two bearings that acts on the inner race to reduce side loads when the spindle is tightened up.Without brute force is there a way of pulling the bearings out from the outside instead of kocking them from the inside.The spacer tube always gets slightly damaged doing it this way and does not want to move to one side so you can tap the bearing. 2.Suspension rose joint. Not easy to remove without damaging the alloy of the shocker body Thanks and hoping for any help you may have

Another tip put the taper seatings in the freezer overnight and also the headstock. Warm up the bearing and also the frame head (dont blow yourself up) if poss before fitting together. Should help