anotherfive

Just interested in why the metal shaft of this assembly seems to wear and fail before the rubber seal. Seems to go against what you would expect. Over to you Stephen Hawkins !!

Hi Considering some bar raisers always wondered about the best set up and to see if any benefit. in particular forward position and raise/lift. Some shops charge a fortune for a "bike fit" for push bikes and I'm thinking there must be some views on this for trials riding. I have a few trials mates who are very funny shapes ( large body no legs,large head and three fingers, really ugly and dodgy knees to name but three etc etc) so I may be able to help them a little !!! Any advice

Spend money on a few oil changes, if it continues looks like water contamination. Do the oil checks first

If this is just on sight glass but rest of oil is ok I'd say not to worry. Worst case change your oil and monitor.

It's a pretty poor system. Firstly the split sleeve bush within the pedal itself is not the best fit with the threaded nut. It's all too slack for me.Currently looking for a better sleeve to remove sideways wobble. The pedal then needs to be narrower than the threaded nut so when tightened this is not squeezed. I've currently added shims to spread the wear over larger areas but it's not perfect. Agree with loctite though. One day I will get there with an improved system. Any more ideas out there ?

This really shouldn't be for riders to fix should it? Cars have plastic tanks and I've never heard of this with cars, has anyone else?

You should be ok , the stream in tong could be interesting though !!!!

I always tell everyone with a seal problem that there's an 80% chance it's muck and not seals that need replacing. In 15 years of riding every weekend have only done seals about three times. Always try a clean before a replacement.

Does anyone know how the large slipper pad that wraps around the swinging arm is held on. They look like giant pop rivets to me , but are they? Thanks

I prefer the right hand side. I can use clutch hand to mess with carb. Can also pull in clutch and cut engine if i need to. I think they're excellent as it takes all the thinking out of a dangerous situation.I also use a non elastic lanyard of ebay.

Thanks for the replies. It was practice in a small area but two solid hours with some high revving. Sounds acceptable from what you're all saying.I'll nip to the bank !!!

I always seem to be filling up before my mates do. Did 2 hrs practice the other night and ran to empty. Does that sound a lot to other 300 riders? I am a tight Yorkshireman though !!!

The best cheap advice is strip the carb first. Any water from washing or debris will affect the running massively.Blow out all carb air and fuel runs with compressed air. What type of carb is it? Do all that then come back to us. That's a cheap fix in a line of various options ending in buying a new bike !!!!

The spacers on the 2012 gasser with formula brakes have two different length spacers. Maybe you need a set of those from gg uk. have you still got a formula caliper on ??

Have you got trouble with a noisy back end ? I think you could weaken the area as heavy loads imposed. Change the cheap bearings.

For you or the bike ?????

The pistons in the rear caliper overlap the edge of the pad. Over time this has worn a step in the pistons, most annoying.This makes it critical that nothing is rotated and has to remain in same position otherwise the piston would act at an angle.. Anyone else had this problem.as I think its a bad design.. Deeper pads would solve this but are there any available?

Think this is locked on with the top yolk pinch bolt. I'd say just dont overtighten as it doesn't really have a load to take.

New bikes at least come with a receipt. Wise owners will pass this on with each sale. I'd want to see this at least.

I think you'll end up with a warm ear if she reads this !! Just keep holding the back box (so to speak) when in a que, works for me !!

Does anyone know whats happened to their website, seems no longer loading up

Same happened to me. Had two wheels one with IRC and the other with X lite. Have ditched the IRC but did like the grip. Could you tape the rim with electricians tape to give it a slightly larger diameter?

How about using something like the method bar ends are secured with. Compressible rubber section should grip the frame

Thanks everyone for replying. Yes it's fine on hills I clean the carb quite regularly A plug chop says its running fine. I do get some fuel out of the overflow pipes sometimes This is what makes me think the float is too high but its set a recommended. Still baffled but could it just be no fuel for a second after a hard manoevre. Don't see others having same issue

Whilst riding some obstacles like a step I get the feeling the bike is flooding then immmidiately feels like starvation and engine pinks. Can it be both within a second or two. I was sure float was set ok and this is only time it does it and its costing me marks. Any help appreciated. Keihin carb by the way