barnesy

Hi Joe, It looks like you've done all you can without splitting the cases, if you decide to go ahead and split the cases I'd say its a finiky rather than hard job take lots of photos and make a note of what order the shims in the gearbox are. With my bike it ran well but was noisy compared to other 348's I'd seen at trials it turned out to be the rod/big end bearings that were worn. I replaced the gearbox bearings and main bearings while it was apart these are relatively cheap and available from inmotion (other supplier are available..). I'd never split an engine before so was a bit daunted when I started but the bikes runs great now so I'm glad I persevered with it, there's lots of info on these forums and feel free to reach out if you need any info/tips. Cheers Guy

Hi Joe, I've just finished rebuilding my 348 and there's a couple of things I'd try before splitting the engine. Put in new selector pawls and a shift return spring as they are inexpensive and your current pawls are probably chipped. Take out the detent plunger on the right side of the engine and check the detent spring is free and not gummed up. I'd also take the selector mechanism off and try the gearbox selection with a mole wrench on the selector drum to see what the gearbox is like, then you can isolate whether its the selector mechanism or not I'd also put in fresh gearbox and clutch oil, morris golden film works well in the clutch, you need old style oils not synthetic stuff. Hope that helps Cheers Guy

I've just changed mine as the bikes new to me wasn't sure what was in it before but I put in Motul Transoil 10w-30 Mineral Motorcycle Gearbox oil. And the gear selection is a lot better, used to struggle a bit downshifting before. Cheers B

Here you go just what you were after! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Montesa-Honda-MH349-Montesa-Cota-349-Twinshock-Trials-Crankshaft-Nuts/303881034556?hash=item46c0b89b3c:g:1~QAAOSw4a9gJEAn

Recently put my 348 back together and was looking for the same figures, there is no service manual for the 348 more a parts manual and that just has the torque figures for the flywheel, primary drive and drive sprocket. There is also a clymer manual (which deals with engines up to 1975) but that doesnt cover the figures either. The case bolts should'nt be too tight as there are (or should be) rubber washers that stop the oil seeping between gearbox and clutch. Hope that helps

Good luck and let us know how you get on !!

Hi David, The parts diagram is for a later 348 motor, if your selector mechanism is like the photo then you have an earlier motor there is nothing missing. if you can only get two gears then you will need to loosen the bolt on the eccentric cam (above the stamped 6) and adjust until you can get all the gears. When the dot lines up with the mark you should be in neutral, its a matter of turning the eccentric a little tighten up the bolt then try the gears if you can get them all go back to neutral and adjust a little further. Hope that helps

Yes I can see it now, I'll be very happy if I can get my tank anywhere near yours ... A very nice 242 you have there.

Great thanks for the advice, was going to try brake fluid as I has some knocking about but will go for the paint stripper Cant see your picture unfortunately

Yes it's the "real" plastic tank not the glassfiber one..

Hi All, I have a plastic tank on my 242 that's been painted at some stage in the past and is starting to look a bit scruffy. What's the best way to remove the old paint as I'd like to get back to its original state ? Thanks in advance

For a 348 its 300 mils (SAE 10W30) in the clutch and 300 mils (SAE 90) in the gearbox so a 349 should be similiar I would think.. Morris golden film works well in the clutch. Hope that helps

That's right there should be a triangular alloy bracket that connect's frame to head. I would think its an 83/84 .

Looks to me like you've got a 349/4 or series 4 the last of the 349's. The frame should be grey, the only thing that dosent look original is the swinging arm that should have a kink in it. I hope that helps

Yes that's also common, mine had the same hole wondered why it miss fired when wet... I patched mine with JB weld and I've had no further problems.

Hi, On a 348 engine, which is probably similiar in design the kick start shaft seal is the only one where you have to split the engine to replace it. I know this as I rebuilt my 348 engine and forgot to replace it so had to split the engine again!! Cheers Guy

Hi Sparkieb, Just sent you a message on shimming, keen to understand the setup Cheers Guy

I'll have a look this afternoon and get back to you with the jet sizes, I bought mine second hand off a fella who had it on a 349 and its the best money I've spent on the bike.. Would recommend Mid Atlantic trials if I was after a new one.

I put on oko 26mm on my 348 runs and starts very well now.

That's what I did with mine (sent shoes off with the measurements as described above)

I got the front brake relined on my 348 and its night and day compared to what it used to be ...

I got a 349 rebuild article which was a copied from an old TMX, The rebuild was done by Sandiford's and is pretty comprehensive. Pops up every now and again on ebay. I go the 7mm allen keys of ebay as well. Hope that helps... cheers Guy

In the same thread does anything go on the frame between that and the alloy tank? and is there meant to be foam or such like between the tank and the tank shelter. Just replaced a fibreglass tank with an alloy tank with fibreglass tank shelter on my bike and its a lot nosier presumably the tank vibrating against the frame?

I've heard these are good 'Testors Enamel Markers' the gold is meant to be a good match, you can get them of ebay.

I had the very same problem a few months ago when i repacked my exhaust, airbox off, rear mudguard off still couldn't refit exhaust, Take the coil off and hey presto it fits. The extra wiggle room with the coil off does the trick..