chris

Remember that the serial number tells you the year of manufacture not the model year. For example if your serial number was VNBS129TR2A****** it would have been assembled in 2002 but it would be possible for the bike to be a 2002 or 2003 model bike.

Suspension, play in the swingarm, scratches on the stanchions, leaky seals. Wheels, play in bearings, rusty/loose spokes, tyre condition, rims for dints and general trueness of the wheel. Brakes, pads or lack of them, look for bent discs and check they actually work. Chain and sprockets, check for wear and also check for worn out rubber slider blocks on the tensioner and on the swingarm. Frame, check for dints, scratches and any cracks, if it's been used on rocks a lot check the sump plate and brackets near the footpegs for bending. Engine, check the air filter if it's mucky it probably doesn't get cleaned and oil frequently so may have cause damage to the engine, check for noises while it's running, ride the bike make sure all the gears can be selected and the clutch works i.e no dragging or slipping when warm. If you want to be fastidious you could ask the owner if you can remove the exhaust header pipe so you can have a look at the condition of the piston and barrel. Exhaust, look for dints and scratches in the pipe, is it very loud it may be bunged up with oily carbon deposits. Hope that helps Chris

Hi It's possible to repair the rad yourself using some techno weld stuff, it's like solder but melts at a high temp, or if you don't fancy diying it there are a few companies that specialise in repairing rads, have a look in the back of TMX. Prevention try putting some foam in-between the fan cowling and the rad where the two parts touch at the top and bottom, this will hopefully stop the cowling vibrating around and wearing through the rad. Chris

I use Ipone Fork Oil 5wt.

Get your self some of the new domino grips, no glue required.

If you drain all the old oil out and put the specified quantity of oil 370cc in the right leg, the air space above the oil to the top of the fork will be 60mm near enough. The problem is it's nearly impossible to get all the old oil out even when taking the damper rod out and pumping it clear. I got my damper clear by puming as much oil as I could out then left it overnight stood upright then turned it upside down and left it overnight again. Not sure how you'd word a update on the info, I guess you could put oil quantities are the quantities used when new and not to be used when doing a simple drain refill, when doing this use the oil height measurements taken from the top of the forks with the forks at the bottom of there stroke and with the spring removed. Chris

There's a damping rod in the right fork leg that will still be full of oil, you'll have to take it out to drain it properly and it takes a while to get the majority of it out, I don't think you will ever get it all out. When refilling it's better to use the specified oil height measurement then it doesn't matter if you get all the old oil out. Oil level on right leg: 60mm With forks at bottom Oil level on left leg: 110mm With forks at bottom and without spring Chris

Hi The smallest Keihin Pwk carb is the 28mm one, there are a few copy's of the keihin carb out there and some of them do a 24mm version for scoters and other similar bikes. Personally I think the bottom end response is better with the Pwk 28 than the dellorto phbl 26. I think a 24mm carb will limit the max revs by quite a bit. Chris

Hi Mine also dose this, my theroy is Sherco have increased the crankcase compression for the 2007 bikes and also decreased the size of the transfer ports this increases the speed of the fresh mixture, perhapse causing it to flow more past the plug, cooling that side of the plug down so it can no longer self clean. Next time you look see which side is dark brown, mine is always on the inlet side. You can help this slightly by buying a new plug and tigtening it up so the electrode faces the back or using the correct size shim. I don't think it will make your bike run any smoother though but it will make your plug a slightly more even colour. Chris

The new domino grips are slighty bigger and they're nice and soft, highly recommended.

Ian I'm in Derbyshire and yes those are the settings I currently use on my sherco. I use these levers on my sherco http://www.splatshop.co.uk/ajp-clutch-lever-p-10130.html They're the sliver medium length ones that come as standard on the newer sherco's. To make your clutch seam lighter try moving the master cylinder inwards so your finger is further along the lever. Cheers Chris

Ian Both the rubbers will stretch over the carb, they might not last very long but so far I've never had a problem. I'm using the original rubbers at the moment, I've not even turned the airbox rubber around, it just stretches over the carb (you may need to warm it up first), I leave it fastened on and only undo the other end (i.e. directly on to the airbox) I find it easier that way. There are a few type's of cable adjusters for the top of the carb if you have got the screw in one replace it with the one out of your delorto carb, if you cut it down slightly you can then use the original throttle cable. Jetting Main 125 or 122 Pilot 45 or 48 Slide 3.5 or 4 Needle JJH (4th clip from the top 2007 bike)(3rd clip from the top 2006 bike) Mixture screw 1/2 to 1 turn out from full in. All this depends on the current air temperature, air pressure, humidity and the altitude where you ride. Hope this helps. Chris

I've added the results to TrialsTalk.co.uk in PDF format to make it easier to print out.

You can view the Out of section DVD trailer without having to download it at TrialsTalk.co.uk bikerdude2006fr Will you be riding the 4 day this year?

I don't know where you got that from, the 250 and 290 both share the same crank assembly so have identical strokes. Your theory right though, longer stroke engines usually find more grip. I can't really comment on which is better as I've never owned a 250 I allways had 290's but I did have a quick go on a 250 at one of the demo days, I found it considerably softer in the mid to top end can't say I noticed it being quicker at the bottom. Chris

I've never heard of anyone doing replacement part for sherco's, you might be lucky and find a cheaper piston that fits off another bike but my guess is it will cost you a lot more in the long run trying to find one that might fit or modifing one to fit correctly. I still think you will have to send the crank away to get the big end changed, it not a job most garages will do.

So it is! maybe it's the same then, I must admit i just presumed the 07 bike had all the same engine parts as the cabestany except the cylinder head. Looking at the parts book it appears they have used the new center cases but haven't used the Cabestany barrel, I've not had the barrel off the 07 bike so I don't really know. The base gasket on the cabestany was much wider around the transfer ports to suit the barrel which has smaller transfer ports. Chris

Rathmells will sell you the lot. Never heard of anyone doing recon engines for shercos. If you need a new big end bearing then you'll need some specialist to do it for you, not an easy job.

Could you send me the full results please Thanks Chris

copemech Like John said there not spacers just gaskets of different thicknesses, I'm fairly sure the new base gaskets are there so the factory can get the squish set up to the perfect hieght as there will allway be a variance in the sizes of the various parts. My cabestany model had a extra base gasket 0.1mm thick and the squish was set at 0.55mm. I think the standard squish is around 0.6mm but don't quote me on that. By the way the new base gaskets will not fit the 06 bikes or any of the older bikes as the centre cases and the barrel where changed for the cabestany and these where caried forward on to the 07 model. Hope this helps Chris

I've put the full list of championship points on TrialsTalk for anyone who wants to look. A few of mine are different to what Wayne got but only one point different, I've not sorted any tie breaks either and I'm not to sure how they are sorted. I'd just like to add that I really enjoyed the trial even though it rain and went dark before I finished, shame it might be the last ever one, hopfully somebody else might step in and keep the trial going. Cheers Chris

Hi Full results on TrialsTalk in pdf format. Cheers Chris

John I'm guessing from your post that you don't think I and a few of the other riders currently doing the novogar's should be eligible, if this is the case then why not change the rules for who is eligible? At the moment there is a lot of very good riders competing and they

I think Dan intends on raising that at the British championship forum, I'm not sure when this is or even if it's still going to go ahead but it's a seperate forum to the one that was cancled. Cheers Chris

To be honest I wanted too a couple of years ago but you need a full time minder and a good one a that, my dad does a good job but he can't always get to all the sections as he has to walk (he can't ride at all!). I done a few but none this year, same again really need a minder to do them properly. I did a few on the international class last year as they are easier so I could do them on my own but didn't fancy doing them this year as there wasn't much competition. Actually the tenth man was on 45 and there were only 7 men and 1 woman over a 100, the average score was 70 marks. This is perhaps the main problem with the low entries, people having misconceptions about how hard they are. Perhaps it is a bit much but I really like the novogar series, a lot more than the expert championship anyway, (sarcasm on) why don't you try any get a proper over 40's class in that and leave the novogar alone To me though if you did have two routes in the novogars you could have a national championship on the hard route and a good over 40's & clubman