chris

Heathy What are you doing on Sunday, I'm going to to the Chris Carter trial (Otley, Yorkshire) I could bring you a spare carb to try if you want. It's a proper national so would be good to come and watch + someone would probably be able to sort your bike out even if the new carb didn't work. Chris

Yeah definately All of the new sherco I had I've a bit of trouble puting the airbox back on for the first time or 2. When the bike has been run for a while and got nice and hot i.e. on a road trial, the airbox must soften a bit and mould into a better shape as they fit perfect after a while. This year bike has got a spacer in to push the reed valves further back but the airbox wasen't altered to suit so if your still having trouble getting the airbox on next time it might be worth shortening the front of the air box by a few mm. Cheers Chris

Which bit are you having trouble with? getting the airbox on to the back of the carb or getting the screews into the air box if its the latter you will find that after you have used your bike a bit, the airbox molds itself to a better shape and it is easier to get on. I don't bother with the plastic flap between the airbox and carb, it doesn't do much in the way of stopping water getting in, there far more water geting in from the sides i.e. inbetween the airbox and mudguard or exhaust and mudguard.

I don't know yet depends on the price really and I like to have a proper go as well i.e more than a couple of minutes. To be honest I didn't really want one at all, till I had a go on it, changed my mind a bit now. Chris

I had a quick ride on it today. First impressions very good, better than I expected, alot quieter than the mont 4rt without restrictors (probably quieter than the mont with restrictors) doesn

Fair point but I would have though it was safer than using an bicycle pump in my case as you can set the regulator to 8psi, then I can pull the trigger in for as long as want and it won't ever go above 8psi.

That why I said turn the regulator down, I don't know how high you can go with the pressure but I wouldn't presonally go any higher than 8 psi, can see seals poping out if you went to high.

For my pressure tester I turned a block of aluminium down so it was a nice fit into the inlet manifold, then I fastened a normal tyre valve on to it. The exhaut side needs blanking off as well. I pump it up with the compressor (turn the regulator down tho), then you can use your tyre pressure gauge to check the pressure. It should hold 8 psi for around 10 minutes. You can buy gas leak detector spray, bubbles where there is a leak, this will show up all your tiny leaks if there are any. Chris

Also have a look at how to do a leak down test Here

Heathy I live just below sheffield Have you had a read of that website page I posted Chris

At the Spainish World round Raga was not using the Ohlins shock but a standard looking sachs one but I guess it was valved to suit him i.e. not standard.

Heathy Like most people have been saying it sounds like an air leak and just because you have put all new gaskets on doesn't mean it is sealed, mating surfaces must be perfectly flat as well. To give you an idea of how flat they should be and how engine builders do it Have a look here If you want I made a simple pressure tester and I have got a spare carb just to make sure. Send me a email if you want to come and borrow them. Chris

HondaRS Here you go a diy setup here

I don't really know but I guess there is just enough oil held in the tiny grooves (cylinder surface finish) made when the cylinder was honed to size.

It

Shut Up It was the best it's been for years It's meant to be hard, it is a national I helped lay one of the groups out and to be fair it was dry when layed out. Chris

Is he riding the same route as Pons and Connor?

Not quite sure what you mean, I presume you just what to run a single power wire to the front light and a earth wire back (and the same for the rear light aswell) so elimiating the need for the bulky wiring loom. If so yes you should be ok as far as I know to connect straight on to the yellow power wire, I'm fairly certain this wire is regulated as it runs the fan. Are you going to put a switch on it as well or just leaving them on all the time? Do you need a rear light or just the front and what about a brake light? Also just adding to my last post if you can't be bothered cutting the thermostat wire out and putting a new connector on try this

How did you take them off in the first place, I take it you just cut them off. I take mine off by just disconnecting the plugs and then cut the one wire leading to the thermostat out of the loom. The sheathing can be pushed far enough back to allow you to cut it out were it is joined to the rest of the loom, this yellow wire needs to be connected to the 2 remaining yellow wires on the bike, I use a Lucar Piggy-Back Connector like this. If you do it this way you can just plug the whole lighting loom back on the bike when needed. Sorry if this doesn't help this time but it might on your next bike. Chris

Cheers for the credit You should be crediting Ken Roberts for stepping in and doing the results for Alan Nixon. Great Trial by the way, must have been a nightmare laying it out with the snow on the ground. Chris

Andy I've tidy them up a bit and put them on http://www.trialstalk.co.uk Download them from there if you want. Chris

Probably on the bottom nearest to the tyre to stop crud going on the suspension linkages just like in r2 pic.

Wayne I take it from your post you have got the rider list, wouldn't mind having a look if you have got it. Chris

Use grease not silicon. Make sure you get the rim spotless before greasing, probably worth putting a new rim tape on it while you're at it.

Your Normal bog standard spark plug would probably not even wear out under your ownership of the bike but it will get sooted/oiled up in a two stroke and so will your iridium plug so your still going to have to change it every so often.