I used viton rings in my 348 tank cap. It becomes a very tight fit almost too tight to get out. Luckily I was able to machine the grooves a little bit deeper to loosen it off.
When I did my apprenticeship we had a plating department.
You could see the people that worked there, they all had shiny bits on their cars and bikes
It wouldn't be beyond the ability or a previous owner to have his say two year old getting slightly tatty frame dipped, striped and given a flash chrome.
The fact it has all fallen off is a sign it probably was done for a bit of fun and not to proper standard
There is some issue with fumes leaking through the fibreglass. I resprayed the tank on my 348 and the paint began to bubble once filled with petrol. There are suggestions are that modern bio fuels can soften fibreglass, in USA lots of petrol powered boats have GRP petrol tanks and its become a thing for them too.
They are rare but the alloy tank is easier to look after. if buying unseen bear in mind some alloy tanks are not a good fit in some covers . I had a few and it took some swapping to find a pair that were a good fit.
Plastic fuel tanks are quite different, tested approved and not so likely to crack as 40 year old fibreglass.
I had a Buell the plastic fuel cell on that has a decorative cover .I have a 'modern' triumph with a plastic petrol tank. These are reportedly changing shape with modern petrol, Mine has become a tight fit in the frame but again its 23 years old.
its easier for you to google Montesa cota wiring diagram than to add one here. they are readily available.
Useful to check where the petrol feed is. I fitted a mikini, the pipe was on the wrong side. And too high up .There's not a lot of space I had troubles getting the petrol into the bowl
On mine the engine number is just a hand stamped number the same as the frame number but without the letters. I have two spare cases and they are roughly hand stamped too. the number is near to the front frame lug
How do they do this at the factory? My Montesa is all cable but I have a Triumph Speed triple and that has all the same problems you are having here. I fixed the SP3 the same way as you describe here. Got to be an easier way.
The 7 mm allen key you need for the head studs is easier to get these days.
It certainly isnt in any standard key set but lots of german cars use them in the brakes.
I have three Montesas,
Two are project mopeds. I have a Cota 50 that is mostly complete but in need of total restoration
I also have a Fura 50 that was partially restored but needs some engine bits.
Where do you think is the best place to find buyers for them?
I do most of my part finding on eBay but I am concerned I might not find the most enthusiastic buyers there.
As they are fairly complete parting out seems a shame and I know I will then still end up with all the useless bits.
Really I need the space more than the money but they do stand me some cash which I would like to get back.
My 348 has a similar thing going on. I think the factory fitted something to the tank that was glued on. it must have fallen off in the 80s.
A previous owner bolted a bit of bent and hammered steel sheet to the frame that acted as a heat deflector. it didnt look very neat but seems to have worked.
sorry no photos as the bike is in bits at the moment.
I'd go with the karting suggestion. They used to cut away so much metal. The big name was Upton.
I second that idea. I like simply bearings, easy website to use and they are really nice people if you ever need to ring them.
If you prefer talking to someone
have been around a long time and can often match the big websites prices.
August 2019 50cc cota forks. Not mine. might be useful to post this here.
I think he means Inmotion in staines.
Im guessing you already found this one?
Surely if you want cheap trials twin shock is the way to go. Dave at 'in motion' is struggling to get rid of some lovely bikes in the pocket money bracket. then there's eBay tons of bikes from scrap to fully built.
thats all the internet routes exhausted. if you get out and talk to people theres many an old timer happy to give stuff away. I find it amusing the way some old fellas are so cross about inflation they want to do something generous.
But nowt comes free, create your own luch and work hard. either at work become a lawyer or something that pays well or work hard in the garage at home...
This manual is available on line.i posted The links in this forum somewhere.
Sixty five pounds is too much
As much as I know the basic principle is that the bike is supposed to be ridden like a bicycle.The assembly in your picture when assembled properly (mine is a sealed unit that doesn't come apart) should allow the pedals to be locked in place while the engine runs.
the pedals have a locking device that lets both pedals fold around so they are not 180 degrees apart.
Hope that makes sense, I'm not sure if I understand that myself.
Wow a super clean restoration!
You can adjust the length of the little brass push rod to control the position of the clutch arm. My bike is horrible and the arm rubs the filler plug, I think a lot do. but you are above that sort of thing.
theres an electronic manual avaialble often on ebay.
I have attached a copy, theres a page missing from this one, which is how I know the bloke that sold it to me got it from someone else without reading it.. I dont have a link to hand but they are out there. the parts manual is easy to find
I'm sorry I don't have anything other than lots pictures from the internet that you probably already have.
I do though have a Fura 50 and a Cota 50 in bits waiting for me to get round to fixing.
I have the JLO / ILO three speed engine on both bikes although one is badged as Montesa.
If there is anything specific you wanted to know please do ask.
I bought my 348 and the gear selection was awful, on inspection I found there were no shims on any of the shafts. The manual suggests a complicated measurement method involving lots of adding and subtraction. I just assembled the box with its gaskets and tested end float on the shafts then made up a set of shims to take the end float to 0.1mm this helped a lot.
Has your man adjusted the 01302 cam plate carefully enough using eccentric nut 107 so that neutral is selected positivly? The 349 has the aditional roller 11001 that should help positive engagement a little more.
Have you got the manual?
Briefly . its blamed on modern petrol. The old fibreglass isn't resistant to the ethanol in our modern petrol. Although also the original tanks were not painted so the fibreglass could breathe. As I have a 348 ,
alloy tanks with GRP covers turn up second hand now an again.
That follower and spring is a later modification, the 348 I don't believe has that. there arent enough bumps in that starfish for 5 gears and nuetral. The gear adjustment is achieved by adjustment of the eccentric cam hidden under the M6 nut shown in your photo. as I understand it that adjusts the neutral position. adjustment of that has been covered in this forum somewhere sorry I cant find it for you at the moment but this is a common question with these gearboxes. been a while since i did mine. and to be honest I never managed to get all fivve gears to work yet.
there is a picture here