jmck

Red Line SuperCool with WaterWetter will stop all of that from happening in the future.

The 2008 has a slightly steeper steering head angle, and the engine and footpegs are moved approximately 5mm down and to the rear to put a little more weight on the frontend, to help keep it planted.

To start, drop the main jet one size, go to one size smaller pilot, lower the clip on the needle one position. Bring gasoline with you for the bike if you can. (gasoline is formulated a little differently for altitude, no reason to compound additional changes if not necessary). Plan on dropping the main another two sizes after you get there and see how it runs. Understand, it will feel like it has lost about 20% of it's power, because it has.

Getting dirt in the carburetor has nothing to do with the quality control of the Keihin carb... Based on what all you are saying, it sounds as if you have dirt in the gas tank, the air filter is not sealed properly allowing dirt and debri to enter the carb, or the or the connection to the rear of the carb and the air filter is not sealed properly allowing dirt to enter. In my 4 decades of working on motorcycles I have never seen a "bad" carburetor that had to be replaced. I have seen carburetors that were worn out, but never a bad carb from the manufacturer. You need to find someone who understands basic motorcycle mechanics, and let them look at what is going on. You can clean the carb a hundred times, but if you do not locate the source of the dirt entering the carb then you will clean it again for hundred and first time. We were at a trial yesterday that had seven 2008 Beta Rev3's entered and not one of them have experienced carburetor problems.

It's not just the Gas Gas prices, lok at all of the new bikes from that part of the world. The Euro is / or has been at an all time high.

The first ever 'Coyote Creek' trials is this weekend in Monroe, NC. It is a CVOTC (Carolina / Virginia Observed Trials Club) championship points event. If you are in the area and want to ride, come on down, we would love to have you! First rider out at 11:00am. Team Beta Usa will be there with demo bikes to ride, BBQ dinner, primitive camping Saturday night is available.

Good job! I believe you are making the right choice on the engine...now is a prime time to have a look at the suspension linkage and swingarm bearings while waiting on getting engine back.

If you haven't done something like this before, and either don't have or don't have access to a few special tools you will be better off taking the engine to a competent dealer to have the main bearings replaced. The crankshaft primary gear usually is really tight and you will need an air impact wrench to remove it, as well as a couple of torque wrenches, bearing and seal drivers/installation tools, a crankcase splitter, and a puller for installing the crankshaft back in the engine case. DO NOT attempt to hammer the crankshaft in by beating into the main bearing upon re-assembly, you will knock it out of true. While the engine is apart, you should also inspect and replace as needed the other bearings and all of the oil seals.

Red Lines 80wt with shockproof can't be beat. Your bike will love you for it.

We use Red Lines 80wt Motorcycle Gear Oil w/shockproof and the bikes have never shifted better. It's about the best protection you can buy.

Yes, it could be the float height, but also make sure that the float bowl vent hoses are not clogged or pinched.

Use purified, deionized water and Red Line's WaterWetter. That will stop any new corrosion of the aluminum and will lubricate the pump seal. All of the name-brand coolants are designed for engines with aluminum components, so whatever is availble in your area should work. Bring the fluid level up to the bottom of the filler hole.

Been using a Mityvac for years with great success.

All of the top-name coolant brands are designed for use in engines that have aluminum alloy components, so whatever is readily available in your area will work. Equally important though is to use the best water you can find...preferably deionized and purified to reduce corrosion. If your dealer carries Red Line products, start with their SuperCool with WaterWetter and add your anti-freeze to it using a 50:50 ratio.

Sherco recommends using 93 octane gas mixed at a ratio of 80:1. Definitely recommend synthetic two-stroke oil (even for a trials bike) due to better lubricating qualities and cleaner burning. As far as brands go, there are many that are suitable, but we have had the best luck over the years using Red Line's Two-Stroke Racing oil. Motul and Maxima both make good products as well.

The official factory recommendation is 'Bardahl Gearbox 20W40', so realisitically any good quality 20x40 motor oil will work, and so does ATF. We have had really good results with Red Line's 80w gear lube.

If we all lived in a slightly 'more perfect' world, here is my view of how things should be: IN MY OPINION

From what you are describing, it sounds a bit rich on the idle circuit. Assuming that the engine is within spec, proper compression, tune up, fresh petrol, air filter is clean, etc., there are three main components in the carb that control idle and low-speed metering. By saying that adjusting the 'pilot' screw seems to make no difference leads me to think either the float level is too high and/or you need to go one size smaller on the pilot jet. Set the air screw 1/2 ~ 2 turns out to start with and see if it runs any cleaner any better.

It sounds like there is air in the system somewhere, despite your best efforts so far. We have rebuilt/replaced master cylinders and calipers so many times that I don't even attempt a brake job wothout a Mityvac bleeder within reach. As long as you have assembled the caliper and master cylinder correctly a Mityvac (or similar priduct) will remove the air from your system. I have had mixed results with syringes in the past and no longer use one.

Very, very, very nice! It is a thing of rare beauty.

Wrong answer mate, the Mini Cooper is built in England. Nice little car too.

I believe that if the importers had those requirements originally, the whole trials scene would be better off today. If they called me tomorrow and told me I had to order 10 bikes and get a showroom I would have to make a choice; either play ball or go home. If they did that tomorrow, I would probably go home and not sell new trials bikes. Two years from now it might be a different story. I am not: wanting to taylor fit the rules to yourself to cut out competition for yourself. . I don't mind competing against a legitimate dealer, that's what makes the world go-round. It's the American way. What I don't like having to do is compete against someone who sells one or two or bikes out of their basement at cost just so their buddies can get a bike cheaper. In the long run, that hurts everyone, not just me. It's a short-sided greedy, I dont-care-about-anyone but me mentality. And it does nothing to promote the sport of trials. I'm not knocking you for being human, but you need to see your argument for what it is. My "argument" as you say, is that I am trying to help the sport move forward instead of just sitting back and watching it flounder along like it has for the past twenty years. It should be pretty obvious by now that what we have been doing isn't working real well. Whose fault is it? I think the responsibility has to be shared by all. We can talk all day and night about what we shouda-coulda-woulda done, but until the average rider decides it's time to make a change nothng is going to happen. Don't purchase a bike from from Billy-bob. Support your local dealer so he will be there when you need parts or service, or when you want to trade your older bike in for a new one. He is the one with the investment in tools, parts, accessories, etc. He is the one to work with the importer for you with warranty issues. How many new faces do you see at trials events? Chances are, you see the same faces today that you have been looking at for the last twenty years at events. Nothing wrong with that, except not very many new people are coming into the sport. Why? It is a lot of fun, reasonably safe, relatively inexpensive in the long run. Most of you guys are like me; you have been working on and riding bikes for a long time. You can change a tire, clean your own air filter, etc. Most Dad's today can't do those things. Again, why not? Most Dad's today lack the three "T"s... time, tools, and talent. Did you know that you can a "fully assembled" soap-box derby car today? Dad's haven't the three "T"s anymore to assist their kids in building one, but they have the money to buy one. If by some chance a youngster is introduced to trials, Dad is going to be looking for a dealer to purchase a bike and gear from. Most of them will not buy form Billy-bob. They want a dealer that can help them make an intelligent decision on what to buy and how to get started. They want a dealer that they can bring the bike back for when it needs service. I would like to do my little part in moving the sport forward, and I think there needs to be fewer Billy-bobs and instead, legitimate dealers. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

I may be sticking my finger in the fan so to speak, but I believe the importers should accept the bulk of the responsibility for where trials is today. Trials is such a small community, the importers should have had the insight to band together and develop a proper dealer network years ago, requiring the dealers to stock parts, service bikes, etc, etc. just like the mainstream bike industry did, although obviously on a much smaller scale. By allowing everybody and their brother to have a franchise actually hurt the sport rather than promoting it. Easy to say that now, but what can be done to help steer us in the right direction? Not much, given the current overall condition of the economy here in the US. It's not just bikes either, I drive past a large a Toyota dealership every day going to work and they still have new 2007 cars on the lot. Everybody's hurting. If the importers won't help initially, maybe those of us that have a substantial investment in our businesses need to start our own dealer associations and petition the importers to pull franchises from people that aren't serious about trying to make a living in the industry. If the average trials bike rider would support legitimate dealers and avoid the fly-by-night guys to save a hundred bucks or so that would be a step in the right direction also. That probably won't happen though, everybody tries to save a buck here and there to put food on the table. It's the "Wall Mart" syndrome all over again...we wonder why nobody manufactures anything in the US anymore on our way to Wally World to buy Chinese crap.

Andy, Thanks for the comments, and I apologize for getting a little sideways with the rules. It certaintly wasn't my intention and I will try to be more careful in the future.

I'm not sure that any trials dealer can sell 20 or so bikes a year, more power to them if they can. I would love to!!! I do a lot of different things to try and make my business support itself, and hopefully to eventually show a profit. Like most of us, I have a real job I work at also. I put in a lot late nights in the shop and pretty much love every minute of it. I cater to the vintage and trials crowd mainly, because that is where my heart is. I build/repair spoked wheels, do vintage bike restorations, and support a few old roadracers. I am getting heavily into suspension setup and repair also. We really enjoy going to trials events and helping folks. We plan on hosting an event here this summer also. It is really important for me to make a profit on most everything I do. That is how I can stay in business. Oh, I believe in giving guys discounts...my customers get a discount on parts and service. I do not inflate prices on anything; I try to get MSRP. Most people understand that...if you sell everything at cost you won't be around very long. The internet is a great thing, and you can buy most anything you want that way, and usually at a reduced cost. It has changed the business model for a lot of businesses. However, there are still people that like to touch and feel things before they buy them, and they like to bring their bike to someone who can help them jet the carb, setup the suspension for their body weight and riding style, etc. I like the idea of the old "Mom and Pop" style of dealer. I don't know what it is like where you live, but around here, you go to the local Mega-Mart Honda-Suzuki-Kawasaki-Yamaha-KTM-Triumph-Victory-BMW-Ducati shop and you can buy all the clothing, helmets, oil, etc. but you can't even get a clutch-cover gasket for anything without having to order it. Heaven forbid trying to get anything non-chrome for a Harley. Sure you can get all the steak knives, official licensed Harley wear from boots to boxer shorts, even "hog-skins" if you're into that, but go to the parts counter and ask for a rocker arm for a 77 Shovel and they look at you like you got three eyes. Long-winded way of trying to make a point I know, but I think trials needs dealers that have (normal-wear) parts in stock, riders can get their bikes repaired when needed, and they can sit on and test-ride a new bike. I try to keep a used one or two in stock also. Anytime you are in the area, give me a call and stop by. The coffee is hot and you all are always welcome.