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I don't like WD40 for anything, there are lots of water dispersing formulas that are more lubricating and better protecting - my opinion. Most are cheaper too. The biggest problem with leaking fork seals is that the oil tends to get on the brake disk. I'd strongly suggest cleaning the seal using film negative before replacing it. Pressure washers force dirt down there better than anything, but dried mud on the forks being carried through the seal comes a close second I have fitted neoprene boots to the forks of my last 4 bikes and have not had a problem since, they can't be recommended highly enough. I do know one guy who went to a motor factors and got a pair of steering rack boots for a Sierra and used those instead, not as smart but probably good for 50,000 miles!

I'd guess that the 2 strokes are aided in their cooling by the amount of cool air that passes continually through the crankcases cooling them, the bottom of the piston, and the lower part of the cylinder every revolution, the cooling effect would be aided by the fuel in the air absorbing it's latent heat of evaporation. A good few years ago Gas Gas attempted to improve cooling by taking the water jacket down into the crankcases - it seemed like a good idea, instead the water heated the crankcases and allowed the mains to spin.

Have you tried different oils in the gearbox? it's amazing the difference they can make to the feel of the clutch. I used to use ATF in the Gas Gas box and it was fine, tried it in the Sherco and the clutch was very 'bitey' Synthetic 0W40 oil gave a very soft clutch but needed changing very frequently or I'd get slip on hill climbs, PJ1 Clutch tuner seems to suit me best. The oil in the gearbox when I got the bike new seemed very heavy and viscous in comparison to any of the above.

If there is time for you to pass someone on the left safely then there is time for him to pull over and let you past. Having said that someone passed me the other day on the left when I was doing slightly more than 69mph and I thought he was going to hit the truck I was about to pass. Really frightened me. You don't drive a black Focus with a jacket hanging in the back door window do you?

Is it written down anywhere how you define a van?. My trials transport is a LWB Landrover. It started off as a panel van, so no argument there, 'cept it now has full length side windows, like a car or a Landrover station wagon the V5 just says Landrover, and what about the Japanese 'crewcab pickup' they have four doors and lots of windows like a car, just the boot lid missing really and you can buy one of those from Ifor Williams! It seems to me that as vehicle manufacturers adapt to niche markets and tax laws the definition becomes muddied. BTW R2W trials, I also pedal a BMW and it astonishes me how rude other drivers can be, getting in the way and suchlike.

Thanks Billy, I remember that posting though I thought it was on another website! After reading it I fitted Boyesen reeds to my Gas Gas. Thing is on this bike the spacer is between the reeds and the carb. I can remember when modifying car engines a longer inlet manifold could improve low end torque but we were talking more than an inch longer, not 3mm longer.

Thanks Munch Received the Jet today!

Dabster - spot on! Bike has a No 30 pilot jet and No 125 main, D36 Needle How receptive was your dealer / Rathmells in swapping for the correct No 33 pilot jet? Still finding the lack of space caused by that plate a problem, tried putting the carb back in whilst mounted on the airbox and managed to remove the outlet from the plastic rear brake fluid reservoir. Never felt a thing, just saw the pipe droop and the carb was tight against the left frame rail. It's all the bodges that get in the way, the carb sits too far back now so you have to push it down to clear the brake fluid reservoir, then whilst wriggling the airbox through the frame you have to get the P Plate in place, pull the rubber flap around the air inlet and get the boot either onto the carb, or if you've left it on the carb, get the airbox to enter the boot cleanly. What black front pipe?

I'll have a look at that Dabster, My 03 ticked over with the regularity of a diesel, even lying down! This one is very weak and wobbly no matter what you do with the pilot adjustment screw

Just changed my 03 290 for an 05 290 and I've noticed a metal spacer about 3mm thick between the reed block and the carb boot, is this some kind of restrictor? and if it is, has anyone tried running without it? The last thing I need is more power, but those few mm do make it harder to replace the carb and air box after cleaning

Yep, I've shortened my pedal by about 1/2-3/4", just cut it and welded it back together. Much easier to use 'though you have to press it a bit harder. If you do the same, make sure you start welding it back together with a gap between the 2 pieces and get full weld penetration, don't just stick the 2 pieces together and run a lap around them.

Not just photographs in Spain, There was one at the Weardale Trial on Sunday gone 05 bikes in July eh?

Thanks for all the help? lads Ended up buying a cheap Landrover 110 hard top that's been to the moon and back. With a little effort, 3 complete bikes and their riders fit in, you can park it anywhere and being a short @rse it's not too uncomfortable to drive. Re-defines the term 'acceleration' though.

It was Carl in the Galaxy that planted the seed really, but the price put me right off. I just fancy a cheap 2nd vehicle that can do stuff that the car can't do ie. room to change and transport the bike dry, and 4x4 for the snotty stuff. It struck me that a Landy would fit the bill, they're readily available, cheap to insure, hold their value if looked after and are slightly more reliable than my old TR7 was. I guess I'll have to take the bike to viewings

Sherco measures 42" tall by 75" long.

I really do just want to know if it's possible to get a bike (complete and assembled) into the back of a 4x4. Has anyone seen it done?

Never seen a bike actually in the back of one

Don't think I'll stay warm and dry getting changed on the back of one of those

Ok, I'm sick of getting changed in the wind and rain whilst standing in my socks in the clarts and I'm not too impressed by the effect the salt on the roads is having on my already scruffy Sherco. I don't want a van and after the fun parking at Rookhope a couple of weeks ago 4WD would be nice. So, is it possible to fit a trials bike into the back of any of the lwb 4wd vehicles currently available in the UK? I'm thinking Landrover 110, LWB Trooper, or even the commercial version of the Discovery

Be careful using the unlit propane torch to find a leak in the inlet manifold. It works and it is quick and efficient. It is also a good way of finding leaks in the HT circuit. It works well, but be careful

Metal 'Jerry Cans' are available in NE England from your local Army + Navy Surplus store, they also sell flexible metal spouts.

Neats Foot Oil - Get it from Horsey type places, I think 500ml cost me about a fiver a couple of years ago, really good for softening old dried out boots and the oil helps repel the water

If the front axle was out of the section before the tape broke then it's a clean. If the tape broke at the exact same moment the front axle crossed the end gate (on or off the ground) it's an unfair five

Talon sprockets wear as well as Renthals and (in my experience) are cheaper. O ring chains last at least for two sets of sprockets and hardly ever need adjusting. I know you should replace chain and sprockets together but with an o-ring chain you really don't need to. They do calm the bike down a bit but I find that an advantage. Only problem is they are a bit wider than stock so space can be tight, plus I've never found an o-ring half link needed on a 2003 Sherco

I think the design of all of the current bikes is great, but the execution is cheap. I'd like to see the manufacturers incorporate the sort of improvements we do to our bikes as riders: I'd like to see Nuts and Bolts made of something that can be used more than once or twice without rounding off and with a coating that prevents corrosion for more than a couple of weeks. I'd like to see spokes and nipples that haven't rusted by the time you get home from your first winter trial when the roads are salty. I'd like to see bearings with the makers name and numbers on them And I'd like to see a couple of improvements that we can't do: I'd like to see plastics that don't shed their laquer and stickers when you pressure wash them or snap when you fall off and it's below 15