gii

Sort of, but in addition to my Mont 4RT, I have 2 x Matchless rigid trials bikes, both have the same bore and stroke and similar frame dimensions, the 1941 bike has much lighter flywheels than the 1952 bike and is the one I prefer for modern 'pre65' trials, it revs quicker and feels 'punchier'. the later bike with the heavy flywheels is really, really great for hill climbs though. I guess you must be riding different types of sections to us if it matter so much

Ross is correct, it's not just weight. Actually, it's not just diameter either, it's actually 'moment of inertia' that matters, see here clicky thing How do you imagine this influences how you keep your feet up?

It's easy enough 'though as I get older the Landrover floor seems to get higher. You need to use a ratchet tie down to compress the fork springs before you wheel it in backwards or you'll damage the headlining. About the only Defender part you can't buy cheaply. I've never broken down going to or from a trial, but I've towed loads in and out. I've also been the only one to get there....

Wayne Weedon of billetparts.co.uk may be able to help you

I have had 2 tanks on my Ariel The one fitted when I bought it looks like a Holtworks tank, it has no stamp on it so by their website may not be genuine, it looks lovely, but I got sick of the welds cracking and leaking over and over again. (repaired locally, not by Holtworks) I then bought a Terry Weedy tank, nothing like as pretty, and the underside is shipyard construction (plates rather than pressings), but in 3 years heavy use, I've not managed to dent it and it's never suffered a failure. This is not a condemnation of a Holtworks tank, mine may not have been genuine, but I know I purchased the second tank from Terry and it's been great

Obviously, both are entirely possible The electrical energy needed to run the fan increases the load on the alternator / engine and drags the tickover down a little If the output of the alternator at tickover is less than 12v then the fan will run slow, increasing the alternator / engine rpm and thus the voltage will increase the fan rpm

In Pre 65 trials where we like to ride 'something different' there is a lot to like about that bike !

No, the swimmer. The photographer looks like Barry Pickard

Mick Clarke ?

If that was on a 4RT, the Honda locking nuts with the metal blade inserts are one use only, either buy new ones when you change the sprocket, or use loctite on the threads. Nice repair, any distortion from the heat?

I purchased a carbon fibre shark fin to replace the white plastic one on my 4RT, it wore away twice as fast as the original. I bought an a small offcut of 4mm 'wear strip' from my local plastic supplier and made 3 more for a Fiver. Still have the 2 spares hanging on a hook years later. Case saver around the gearbox sprocket is important on a 4RT, seen a couple of flywheel covers broken and boots covered in hot oil pushing the bike back.

Odgie

And here http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/16635-works-bsa-tigress-engined-bike/

250cc Twin Cylinder Scooter motor, think there was a Triumph badged version too.

You can move the brass needle valve seat in the alloy float bowl easily enough, Take the banjo fitting off and heat up the float bowl by putting it in boiling water for a minute then tap the needle valve seat up or down with an aluminium drift. Check the float height by turning the assembly upside down, fine tune it by bending the float tabs slightly

Ayle is cancelled as both the venue and the river are frozen solid with more snow forecast. I presume Stanley have stepped in to offer an event. The VMCC event at Butsfield is described as an event for British (Pre65) bikes

Yes, as I said, It made my clutch scream and judder and the oil came out very discoloured after a fortnight. Elf lasts 6 months between changes and comes out looking like new.

No it isn't. The clutch will scream and judder. The only oil that works properly in the 4RT gearbox is Elf HTX 740 and unfortunately it's getting harder to find. It's also very expensive when you do find it. Loads of threads in the Montesa forum about this.

Renthal R1

Whatever you do, don't over soften the boots. Damaged feet take ages to heal - I know from miserable experience, blackened toes don't like changing gear!!. These days I just wash the boots with the bike and don't let them dry out and stiffen completely, then wear waterproof socks - sealskinz or MOD surplus seem pretty good at keeping the water in.

Have you tried Dennis Ziolkowski Overland Trail Cycle 8 Belvidere Street Crafton, PA 15205-2819 412-780-3693 www.OverlandTrail.biz In my experience he will help if he can.

Would something like this work? http://www.tyoffroad.co.uk/store/p40/FOOTREST_KIT_TO_FIT_HONDA_TLR200.html

Also, read Odgie's reply to this post: http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/15599-final-drive-sprocket/

I'd second that, You will find second hand bashplates on ebay, something from the late eighties / early nineties when motors were wider would be suitable for modification and are generally tougher

Don't know about pants, but these people: http://www.vintageracewear.co.uk/ Have produced custom shirts for me in a variety of colours and fabrics as their availability has changed over the years. I like the 'Factory' shirts best, the cotton 'pro-racer' shirt gets a bit too clingy when you sweat . I have no connection with them, just a satisfied customer.